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So I was looking at getting my first real mountain bike, perhaps to go after some longer haul geocaches this summer.

 

Some of the points I jotted down:

-Budget of 800$

-Hardtail

-Should have quick release, remote lockout

-atleast 100mm of travel on fork

-29 wheels

-hydraulic disc brakes

 

I would very much appreciate it if you guys could recommend a bike which would be the best bang for my buck in that price category.

 

Thanks!

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So I was looking at getting my first real mountain bike, perhaps to go after some longer haul geocaches this summer.

 

Some of the points I jotted down:

-Budget of 800$

-Hardtail

-Should have quick release, remote lockout

-atleast 100mm of travel on fork

-29 wheels

-hydraulic disc brakes

 

I would very much appreciate it if you guys could recommend a bike which would be the best bang for my buck in that price category.

 

Thanks!

$800 for a 29r with a shock lockout, and hydraulic brakes? Bless your soul...

You will likely have to go with a used bike.

 

This might not be the thread (or the forum) for the best help...

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So I was looking at getting my first real mountain bike, perhaps to go after some longer haul geocaches this summer.

 

Some of the points I jotted down:

-Budget of 800$

-Hardtail

-Should have quick release, remote lockout

-atleast 100mm of travel on fork

-29 wheels

-hydraulic disc brakes

 

I would very much appreciate it if you guys could recommend a bike which would be the best bang for my buck in that price category.

 

Thanks!

$800 for a 29r with a shock lockout, and hydraulic brakes? Bless your soul...

You will likely have to go with a used bike.

 

This might not be the thread (or the forum) for the best help...

 

I'm assuming you mean to say that is an unreasonable expectation for the price point. However, most bikes I have looked at, at that price point in my local bike shops have had those features.

 

Asides from this not being the best location, I've tried bike forums - however those that frequent those pages seem to not be interested in looking at posts by 'beginners'.

 

Thanks though.

 

Why wait for summer?

 

Google "snow bicycles". They are becoming fairly popular around here.

Have a look-see, you just might like them -- 'cept for the price!

 

You know your right - I was going to buy one this weekend, but the 10-15 centimeters of snow just threw me off. I just have no sense of adventure, lol.

Edited by Jeff. . .
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So I was looking at getting my first real mountain bike, perhaps to go after some longer haul geocaches this summer.

 

Some of the points I jotted down:

-Budget of 800$

-Hardtail

-Should have quick release, remote lockout

-atleast 100mm of travel on fork

-29 wheels

-hydraulic disc brakes

 

I would very much appreciate it if you guys could recommend a bike which would be the best bang for my buck in that price category.

 

Thanks!

$800 for a 29r with a shock lockout, and hydraulic brakes? Bless your soul...

You will likely have to go with a used bike.

 

This might not be the thread (or the forum) for the best help...

 

I'm assuming you mean to say that is an unreasonable expectation for the price point. However, most bikes I have looked at, at that price point in my local bike shops have had those features.

 

Asides from this not being the best location, I've tried bike forums - however those that frequent those pages seem to not be interested in looking at posts by 'beginners'.

 

Thanks though.

Sorry if my post came across as too harsh. Other than some of the big-box store bikes with 29" wheels, I struggle to locate a bike fitting your desired setup for <$800.

 

One of the major things that you need to consider is the components in the drivetrain. How often you will ride, types of most common terrain, miles per day, etc all come into consideration when buying a bike. You have a solid list of upgrades, but the frame construction, front and rear derailleurs, crankset, etc are all more important than hydaulic brakes, imo. (For context, I sold bikes for a while, and ride pretty frequently)

 

So, can you suggest some of the bikes that you have been considering? That might help us with your search. If it is opinions you want, then I say be prepared to spend more $$ for a bike that will be made well, last longer, and have components that won't need constant adjustment or experience easy breakage.

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Put it to you this way:

You don't want a Yugo with sat-nav and a nice radio, do you?

 

Edit to add:

The "good" options I can find for under $800 don't have hydraulic brakes, but are stout framed bikes with ok components for a recreational rider.

 

Specialized Hardrock 29 disc (doesn't have enough fork travel or a lockout)

Trek Wahoo 29 (has the travel, ok component level, but no hydraulic brakes)

Cannondale Trail 29er 5 (Has 80mm travel w/ lockout, but no hydro brakes)

 

Best bet is to ride ride ride. Test some out at every shop you can find, and talk to the salespeople. A good shop isn't going to sell the biggest, baddest bike to someone who clearly doesn't want or need a $2k, race-ready rig.

 

Personally, I'd go Cannondale because of the frame craftsmanship.

 

Best of luck with your research. 29ers are great fun.

Edited by NeverSummer
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So I was looking at getting my first real mountain bike, perhaps to go after some longer haul geocaches this summer.

 

Some of the points I jotted down:

-Budget of 800$

-Hardtail

-Should have quick release, remote lockout

-atleast 100mm of travel on fork

-29 wheels

-hydraulic disc brakes

 

I would very much appreciate it if you guys could recommend a bike which would be the best bang for my buck in that price category.

 

Thanks!

$800 for a 29r with a shock lockout, and hydraulic brakes? Bless your soul...

You will likely have to go with a used bike.

 

This might not be the thread (or the forum) for the best help...

 

I'm assuming you mean to say that is an unreasonable expectation for the price point. However, most bikes I have looked at, at that price point in my local bike shops have had those features.

 

Asides from this not being the best location, I've tried bike forums - however those that frequent those pages seem to not be interested in looking at posts by 'beginners'.

 

Thanks though.

Sorry if my post came across as too harsh. Other than some of the big-box store bikes with 29" wheels, I struggle to locate a bike fitting your desired setup for <$800.

 

One of the major things that you need to consider is the components in the drivetrain. How often you will ride, types of most common terrain, miles per day, etc all come into consideration when buying a bike. You have a solid list of upgrades, but the frame construction, front and rear derailleurs, crankset, etc are all more important than hydaulic brakes, imo. (For context, I sold bikes for a while, and ride pretty frequently)

 

So, can you suggest some of the bikes that you have been considering? That might help us with your search. If it is opinions you want, then I say be prepared to spend more $$ for a bike that will be made well, last longer, and have components that won't need constant adjustment or experience easy breakage.

 

Right on, thanks. I am starting to agree though, I may need to be looking at 2012's to be getting everything I'm looking for. As far a s budget goes, I wouldn't mind going as high as 900.

 

Some of the bikes I have been looking at;

http://www.ridleys.com/bikes/trek/trek-6000-disc

http://www.bowcycle.com/bc12/bicycles/rockhopper-29/?bicycle-type=Mountain&road-choices=&city-choices=&mountain-choices=Trail&bmx-choices=&gender=Male&wheel-size=%2B29in (also offered in a 2012 for 850)

http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/GhostBikes/PRD~5031-123/ghost-se-2920-bicycle-unisex.jsp

http://www.ridleys.com/bikes/giant/giant-talon-29er-1

 

Cheers.

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Right on, thanks. I am starting to agree though, I may need to be looking at 2012's to be getting everything I'm looking for. As far a s budget goes, I wouldn't mind going as high as 900.

 

Some of the bikes I have been looking at;

http://www.ridleys.com/bikes/trek/trek-6000-disc

http://www.bowcycle.com/bc12/bicycles/rockhopper-29/?bicycle-type=Mountain&road-choices=&city-choices=&mountain-choices=Trail&bmx-choices=&gender=Male&wheel-size=%2B29in (also offered in a 2012 for 850)

http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/GhostBikes/PRD~5031-123/ghost-se-2920-bicycle-unisex.jsp

http://www.ridleys.com/bikes/giant/giant-talon-29er-1

 

Cheers.

That Trek has the best component grouping for the money. (And it looks nice, which is great) Rockhoppers are also a solid bike, but that bike misses on the level of components that the Trek has.

 

Trek would be great, but the Specialized will have a better frame. From there, try to ride them and see how they feel. Between those two (or the Cannondale I mention above), go with your gut once you get in the saddle.

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Hey Jeff,

Try small, local shops in your area. Now is the time they want to sell last year's models so they can buy 2013s. I bought a Redline 620 for that price about 1 1/2 yrs ago.

I'd say to stay away for the new fat tire bikes, unless you have a stable and want to add another 'filly.' They are fun to ride, but the fat tires slow things down considerably.

I don't know your riding style, or where you live, but have you considered a cross bike? Very versatile. But NOT a mtn bike. I will also suggest trying a cyclocross race even if you buy a 29er. Much fun!

But go to the local, SMALL, shops and check things out. That 'one guy' shop may offer a nice deal.

Ride on!

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Im kinda new to biking myself. But neversummers suggestions are spot on. I purchased a 400 dollar diamond back, and it was ok for awhile. Not many places to mountain bike where I live, so i started riding it on the street.....let me tell you how horrible that was...lol I went to my local bike shop and they let me test a 900 dollar giant road bike...WOW what a different the same 10 miles on the mountain bike that took me almost 2 hours to complete, I was able to cut that down significantly with the right bike. I prefer to mtn bike over road biking but being in my area road biking just works for me better. Geocaching got me riding, but now I ride just to ride.

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My nbeighbor owns a local bike shop, and he looked into "scratch and dent" and last year's models bikes direct from the manufacturer. He said he can sometimes score great deals on basically new bikes with some cosmetic damage (which is probably less than what we'd do to it on our first ride!).

 

A local delaer may also have some used bikes avialable, tuned up and put back into great condition.

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I do a lot of recreational riding, both for the fun of riding and for caching. I went with a MTB rather than a road bike. I can ride the MTB on the road, in the Southern California mountains and in the desert. However, I cannot ride a road bike in the mountains or desert. I elected against either full suspension or 29 inch wheels because I'm not going to do hardcore downhill riding and the 26 is better uphill and is more nimble on tight single track.

 

Buy from a bike shop or at least a sporting goods store with a dedicated bike department. Big box stores may have bikes that fit your specifications, and look pretty. However, they are unlikely to withstand hard riding.

 

When I am caching from my bike, I am always fearful that while I am looking for a cache, someone will hop on my bike and ride off. Since it is not practical to lock the bike when I'm just looking for a cache that is 20 or 30 feet away (which is enough for someone to hop on and ride off), I have a clip that I simply clip onto one of the spokes. The clip is tied on a short string to the seat post. If someone hops on, the wheel will stop turning in about 3 feet and they will fall. That is enough time for me to rescue my bike.

 

BTW: Any MTBers in SoCal who want to go caching?

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Funny now folks love to waste money on bikes.

 

If you have to ask, you don't need an expensive bike.

 

More moving parts means more that will fail.

My experience has been the exact opposite.

 

Full suspension bike, lots of upgrades, quality parts, regular tune-ups. Never made a peep. Just a thrill to ride.

 

That said, if you are going to put your bike through some paces, best to get a stout frame and spring for higher level components. (Except hydraulic brakes. Stab a hydraulic line with a stump or rock, and field repair isn't so easy. Standard wire-actuated systems are far more simple to deal with in the field)

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Funny now folks love to waste money on bikes.

 

If you have to ask, you don't need an expensive bike.

 

More moving parts means more that will fail.

My experience has been the exact opposite.

 

Full suspension bike, lots of upgrades, quality parts, regular tune-ups. Never made a peep. Just a thrill to ride.

 

That said, if you are going to put your bike through some paces, best to get a stout frame and spring for higher level components. (Except hydraulic brakes. Stab a hydraulic line with a stump or rock, and field repair isn't so easy. Standard wire-actuated systems are far more simple to deal with in the field)

 

Until I got my most recent bike, I have always had wire-actuated brakes for exactly that reason. It turns out I have NEVER, had to deal with them in the field. And, the hydraulic brakes on my new bike area delight to use. Also, the disc brakes do not tend to rub as do v-brakes if you tweak the wheel a bit.

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Funny now folks love to waste money on bikes.

 

If you have to ask, you don't need an expensive bike.

 

More moving parts means more that will fail.

My experience has been the exact opposite.

 

Full suspension bike, lots of upgrades, quality parts, regular tune-ups. Never made a peep. Just a thrill to ride.

 

That said, if you are going to put your bike through some paces, best to get a stout frame and spring for higher level components. (Except hydraulic brakes. Stab a hydraulic line with a stump or rock, and field repair isn't so easy. Standard wire-actuated systems are far more simple to deal with in the field)

 

Until I got my most recent bike, I have always had wire-actuated brakes for exactly that reason. It turns out I have NEVER, had to deal with them in the field. And, the hydraulic brakes on my new bike area delight to use. Also, the disc brakes do not tend to rub as do v-brakes if you tweak the wheel a bit.

True, but there are some very nice standard disc brakes on many bikes. The advantages of disc brakes are many, but the plus/minus of hydraulic vs cable isn't convincing enough for a recreational rider.

 

I'm not sure, based on your post above, if you have had rim brakes with cable, or disc brake with cable. Having run many types of brakes on many bikes, I have found myself with rim brakes on very stout rims and loved it. But, that's the old-school in me. The disc brakes I have experienced are much, much better in wet conditions, and certainly experience less fade when it comes to long downhill sections.

 

But, the idea that hydraulic=better comes with many an asterisk. Cables, on the other hand, are lighter, easier to maintain, and are simple to deal with...so long as you know how to do routine bike maintenance like cable adjustments. (Which you need to know how to do on your derailleurs anyway...)

 

Hydraulic brakes are great if you know what you are doing for bleeding and adjustments. But, chances are, the recreational user isn't going to know how to deal with the delicate process of a bicycle's hydraulic brakes. (a tad more finesse than your car's brake bleed system is required) So, often it means bringing it to a shop, rather than just knowing how to deal with cable stretch and adjustments yourself at home.

 

This outlines my hesitation about having hydraulic brakes as a recreational or beginner rider. Bells and whistles are fun...having the best and coolest rig is neat...but when it comes to function of a bike, meet the level of need before going overboard on bells and whistles.

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Funny now folks love to waste money on bikes.

 

If you have to ask, you don't need an expensive bike.

 

More moving parts means more that will fail.

 

Do you ride a bike?

 

Maybe a cheap bike is good if you use it recreationally at a park on a paved path with your kids, once or twice a month. But if you ride to stay in shape 3-4 times a week 10-20+ miles or more depending on what shape you are in, a good bike is going to cost you. It's alot easier to ride a bike that weighs 5 lbs over a bike that weighs 40 lbs.

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Trek dual Sport , 700 wheels and tires allow for subtle adjustments between road and trail. It is difficult to match one bike to all uses. A group of us rode the CO Canal towpath last fall , we went with 700 x 35 tires, but only one had front shock, i think it would have helped., lots of chatter on towpath

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Do you ride a bike?

 

Maybe a cheap bike is good if you use it recreationally at a park on a paved path with your kids, once or twice a month. But if you ride to stay in shape 3-4 times a week 10-20+ miles or more depending on what shape you are in, a good bike is going to cost you. It's alot easier to ride a bike that weighs 5 lbs over a bike that weighs 40 lbs.

Yes...not as much as a should since my transplant surgery (Nov. 2007) but started getting back into it last summer. There are a couple local places with good trails. I use to do more hybrid riding (the softer flat trails) but I got into the hilly, curvy stuff when I know strength building was more a priority than endurance. I'm still weak really.

 

0e1bc71e7ead11e18bb812313804a181_7.jpg

See more pictures on my Instagram acct: http://instagram.com/stormitecture/

Edited by TheWeatherWarrior
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I run a Giant XTC 29er0, ....I have had great luck with Giant Service and support...

 

I would look very closely at a Giant Talon...You should be able to get one close to your price range with Sram components...This one has X5 Sram components and Shimano HYD brakes...It sports a 100mm travel Rock Shox fork..Schwalbe tires..Looks sharp too...It is 1100 bucks but I can just about guarantee that you can get one from the dealer in your price range....

 

My link

 

Airbone makes a decent bike with good components at a reasonable cost...They are mail order only so you won't have the support from your local bike shop like you would if you went with Giant or another brand...You also have to do your own setup...If you are mechanically inclined it isn't a bad route to take...

 

You are smart to stay away from a full suspension bike...For the type of riding you are going to do you don't need a shock and it is just more maintenance and weight...Plus you have to spend alot more money to get into a full suspension ride with the same components...

 

I have a 26 inch Full suspension bike also and it sits in my garage....

 

I really don't think you need a Remote lockout with a hardtail...your only sporting 100mm of fork travel so that won't effect your climbs as much as a rear shock lockout on a FS bike...

Edited by basscat5
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Funny now folks love to waste money on bikes.

 

If you have to ask, you don't need an expensive bike.

 

More moving parts means more that will fail.

 

Do you ride a bike?

 

Maybe a cheap bike is good if you use it recreationally at a park on a paved path with your kids, once or twice a month. But if you ride to stay in shape 3-4 times a week 10-20+ miles or more depending on what shape you are in, a good bike is going to cost you. It's alot easier to ride a bike that weighs 5 lbs over a bike that weighs 40 lbs.

 

But we're not talking a bike for staying in shape by riding 10-20+ miles 3-4 times a week. We're talking about a bike that someone would use for geocaching, most often used recreation-ally on paved or improved paths a few times a month.

 

This thread reminds me of an old usenet flyfishing newgroup where newbies would come in and ask for recommendations for a "beginners" flyrod. I remember one instance when someone suggested a $700 Winston rod as a starter flyrod. I own about a dozen fly rods and the one I probably use most frequently is a $110 Redington even though I also have a Sage (which runs around $400 new...I bought it used for $200) and several bamboo rods.

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This thread has offered a bit of insight for me. I currently peddle a Cannondale Comfort, which most definitely is not a mountain bike. I suspect they added the front shocks more for the aesthetic appeal than for anything else. But since this is my only bike, it's what I take off road. My riding is very mild. I don't do jumps, I walk it over logs, etc. Still, it gets beat up over time. My biggest issue is that, at 300 some odd pounds, when I hit an obstacle my rims tend to bend. This has become less of a problem since I got the Comfort, as it has double walled rims, but still, I spend a lot of time making them true after a few rides.

 

I would like to get a more rugged bike, if I could find one I could afford.

 

Maybe I could just get stronger rims? :unsure:

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This thread has offered a bit of insight for me. I currently peddle a Cannondale Comfort, which most definitely is not a mountain bike. I suspect they added the front shocks more for the aesthetic appeal than for anything else. But since this is my only bike, it's what I take off road. My riding is very mild. I don't do jumps, I walk it over logs, etc. Still, it gets beat up over time. My biggest issue is that, at 300 some odd pounds, when I hit an obstacle my rims tend to bend. This has become less of a problem since I got the Comfort, as it has double walled rims, but still, I spend a lot of time making them true after a few rides.

 

I would like to get a more rugged bike, if I could find one I could afford.

 

Maybe I could just get stronger rims? :unsure:

Things as simple as tire pressure can help. Also, spoke patterns and rim type can add strength. New rims, however, can be as expensive as a new bike. But, if you love the bike you have, you can reduce weight in the rims and add strength and reduce rotating mass, which can mean an easier, quicker ride.

 

Comfort bikes often get tossed out of the consideration pile because they don't look as cool as purpose-built mountain bikes. But, more often than not, they are the right bike for the recreational rider.

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they are the right bike for the recreational rider.

I think that's key for someone like myself. I'm not a seasoned rider. At my age and level of infirmary, I probably never will be. I just need something to schlep me down the trails at a slow-poke pace, and the Cannondale Comfort mostly does that. I just wish the rims wouldn't bend so easily. I suppose I should be thankful though. My Raleigh would bend a rim if it hit a shadow. <_<

dcbdda44-eca9-4bae-9d45-5aa948c4b0e9.jpg?rnd=0.6504196

Edited by Clan Riffster
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Funny now folks love to waste money on bikes.

 

If you have to ask, you don't need an expensive bike.

 

More moving parts means more that will fail.

 

Do you ride a bike?

 

Maybe a cheap bike is good if you use it recreationally at a park on a paved path with your kids, once or twice a month. But if you ride to stay in shape 3-4 times a week 10-20+ miles or more depending on what shape you are in, a good bike is going to cost you. It's alot easier to ride a bike that weighs 5 lbs over a bike that weighs 40 lbs.

 

But we're not talking a bike for staying in shape by riding 10-20+ miles 3-4 times a week. We're talking about a bike that someone would use for geocaching, most often used recreation-ally on paved or improved paths a few times a month.

 

This thread reminds me of an old usenet flyfishing newgroup where newbies would come in and ask for recommendations for a "beginners" flyrod. I remember one instance when someone suggested a $700 Winston rod as a starter flyrod. I own about a dozen fly rods and the one I probably use most frequently is a $110 Redington even though I also have a Sage (which runs around $400 new...I bought it used for $200) and several bamboo rods.

 

Well, you make a good point there.

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I've lost what is being argued.

 

My point is a decent $250-$450 new bike with simple front suspension is all that is likely needed for geocaching and decent trail use. $800 seems overkill. Hydraulic breaks, overkill. Heck, throw out geocaching, even serious bikers don't use all that crap. Just ride. I mean, it is more what you do with what you have than what you have. Sabine Schmidt can go around the Nürburgring track in a van faster than most can in a Ferrari.

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I've lost what is being argued.

 

My point is a decent $250-$450 new bike with simple front suspension is all that is likely needed for geocaching and decent trail use. $800 seems overkill. Hydraulic breaks, overkill. Heck, throw out geocaching, even serious bikers don't use all that crap. Just ride. I mean, it is more what you do with what you have than what you have. Sabine Schmidt can go around the Nürburgring track in a van faster than most can in a Ferrari.

First, there wasn't anything being argued. The OP mentioned what they were looking at, and asked for input.

 

They wanted to spend that much on a bike, and also wanted some bells and whistles. Others have chimed in with what works for them, but the OP was looking for ~$800 29ers. The OP also showed some models they are considering, and we were able to address each for its frame, components, etc.

 

Now, if the discussion becomes generalized about bikes and geocaching, then we can agree that most folks have no need for anything more than a simple Big-box retailer's bike. But, in that case, I argue that you will have fewer issues if one were to go with an inexpensive name-brand bike from a bike shop. (Schwinn isn't the name brand it once was, for instance. Target sells them, and they are not really up to snuff when it comes to proper assembly, adjustment, and component life.)

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I've lost what is being argued.

 

My point is a decent $250-$450 new bike with simple front suspension is all that is likely needed for geocaching and decent trail use. $800 seems overkill. Hydraulic breaks, overkill. Heck, throw out geocaching, even serious bikers don't use all that crap. Just ride. I mean, it is more what you do with what you have than what you have. Sabine Schmidt can go around the Nürburgring track in a van faster than most can in a Ferrari.

 

You're right on the money but I wasn't sure what you meant by your first post. I've done a little geocaching on bike and all winter I've been wanting to do it again. I also have a road bike but the geocaching machine is a Trek hybrid with a suspension fork and seatpost. It's fine for light off-road use but it's definitely not a mountain bike. It was right around price range you mentioned.

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I find my 1993 Cannondale Delta V 600 is still more than up to the task of caching. If I want to go pure mountain biking on the horribly technical trails around here I'd be spending more than $2500 and get myself a quality lightweight, full suspension, disc brake bike.

 

For moderate terrain and a lot of on-again/off-again a fairly modest bike is your friend.

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