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What are you using for cache containers these days?


BlueDeuce
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Cloth tape loses its adhesive over time as well. It doesn't crack, it just turns to dust.

 

As do we all, eventually.

 

:anibad:

 

I had a container covered in cloth tape that was directly exposed to the elements for several years. When I retired it the tape was still in good shape. After applying the tape I sprayed it with several coats of clear sealer. Worked like a charm.

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Cloth tape loses its adhesive over time as well. It doesn't crack, it just turns to dust.

 

As do we all, eventually.

 

:anibad:

 

I had a container covered in cloth tape that was directly exposed to the elements for several years. When I retired it the tape was still in good shape. After applying the tape I sprayed it with several coats of clear sealer. Worked like a charm.

 

Thanks for the tip. I went out today and purchased a bottle of clear spray varnish. I am trying it out on several of my spray-painted caches to see if they hold up better.

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Just about every ammo can I've run across, in the US and in Germany, has been a military container. The A.P.E. caches were 120mm mortar cans. Not exactly civilian issue. All the ammoc ans at my house right now are for 7.62mm belt fed machine gun ammunition. Also not civilian issue, no matter what you've read about US gun laws. So gun ownership laws aren't going to have much to do with it. It's more about access to military surplus.

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My local hiding areas have a "clear container" policy, so it's been mostly lock-n-locks and preforms for me. But tomorrow morning, I get to hide a well-cammo'd 50-cal ammo can.

 

One of ClanRiftser's fairies will get their wings back! Or is it a puppy will come back to life?? I get so confused.... :laughing:

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For the record, I like larger caches over small ones. That being said, my favorite small container is a soda preform. They are:

 

1) Durable,

2) Cheap (~$0.50 per, last time I bought),

3) Easy to get logs out of (if the log is well-sized), and you don't need a baggie.

4) The caps last better than film bottles or matchstick o-rings, and can be replaced with soda bottle caps if needed

5) some have a good lip for attaching a tether if needed.

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The other issue I'm seeing is the spray paint chipping off. I may try a layer of varnish on top of the spray paint. I really would like them to last at least 5 years without having to redo the camo.

 

 

I've had good luck using Valspar plastic primer on Lock n Locks before I apply the camo colors. I have containers with the primer base that have been out for years and never chip. The few times I had a problem with chipping was when I applied spray paint directly to the container, even though it was supposed to be plastic spray paint (Krylon Fusion). I've tried other plastic primers but none work as well as Valspar.

 

It also helps to remove the sheen from the container before applying any paint. I simply use a Scotch Brite with a little dish detergent or Comet and water.

I had some interaction with the good folks at Krylon regarding a can of their Fusion which I believed was defective, due to how it sprayed out, and later, how it adhered, (or rather, failed to, in this case), and along with the replacement can, they offered a bit of advice for painting new plastic containers.

 

In short, they suggested cleaning them with an ammonia based cleaner, such as Windex.

This, along with my usual light sanding, has made a significant difference in how the paint sticks.

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The other issue I'm seeing is the spray paint chipping off. I may try a layer of varnish on top of the spray paint. I really would like them to last at least 5 years without having to redo the camo.

 

 

I've had good luck using Valspar plastic primer on Lock n Locks before I apply the camo colors. I have containers with the primer base that have been out for years and never chip. The few times I had a problem with chipping was when I applied spray paint directly to the container, even though it was supposed to be plastic spray paint (Krylon Fusion). I've tried other plastic primers but none work as well as Valspar.

 

It also helps to remove the sheen from the container before applying any paint. I simply use a Scotch Brite with a little dish detergent or Comet and water.

I had some interaction with the good folks at Krylon regarding a can of their Fusion which I believed was defective, due to how it sprayed out, and later, how it adhered, (or rather, failed to, in this case), and along with the replacement can, they offered a bit of advice for painting new plastic containers.

 

In short, they suggested cleaning them with an ammonia based cleaner, such as Windex.

This, along with my usual light sanding, has made a significant difference in how the paint sticks.

 

Thanks for the tip. I was cleaning them with rubbing alcohol, but maybe I'll try the Windex for cleaning. In addition I'm now spraying varnish on the outside of all my new caches. I've tried sanding lock n locks, but I don't like how it scratches up the surface. Part of my problem is I forget which caches I've done what to. Need to keep a better record so I can compare results. :huh:

Edited by The_Incredibles_
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The other issue I'm seeing is the spray paint chipping off. I may try a layer of varnish on top of the spray paint. I really would like them to last at least 5 years without having to redo the camo.

 

 

I've had good luck using Valspar plastic primer on Lock n Locks before I apply the camo colors. I have containers with the primer base that have been out for years and never chip. The few times I had a problem with chipping was when I applied spray paint directly to the container, even though it was supposed to be plastic spray paint (Krylon Fusion). I've tried other plastic primers but none work as well as Valspar.

 

It also helps to remove the sheen from the container before applying any paint. I simply use a Scotch Brite with a little dish detergent or Comet and water.

I had some interaction with the good folks at Krylon regarding a can of their Fusion which I believed was defective, due to how it sprayed out, and later, how it adhered, (or rather, failed to, in this case), and along with the replacement can, they offered a bit of advice for painting new plastic containers.

 

In short, they suggested cleaning them with an ammonia based cleaner, such as Windex.

This, along with my usual light sanding, has made a significant difference in how the paint sticks.

 

Thanks for the tip. I was cleaning them with rubbing alcohol, but maybe I'll try the Windex for cleaning. In addition I'm now spraying varnish on the outside of all my new caches. I've tried sanding lock n locks, but I don't like how it scratches up the surface. Part of my problem is I forget which caches I've done what to. Need to keep a better record so I can compare results. :huh:

I've been thinking about using Krylon camo paint on some 1.1 and 1.8 litre Lock n Lock containers that were banished from the kitchen instead of covering them with camo tape.

 

Here's what they (Krylon) say on their site regarding surface prep:

 

When working with plastic

For old plastic, use an ammonia-based cleaner and wipe down to clean surface.

If the plastic is new, wipe down with paint thinner for best results.

Lightly sand glossy surface if previously painted and remove dust with a tack cloth.

When dry, apply Krylon® Fusion for Plastic according to the directions on the can.

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