Extrex 20 user

[+MRW 20]

I am new to Geocaching and having a great time. I am wondering what is the most ideal setting for increased accuracy for my gps unit. I find that my unit will say I am within, in some cases, 9ft - 6ft of cache, but short of turning every leaf or rock over there is nothing there. This has happened several times after reviewing previous log notes. Is there a more ideal setting? both WAAS/ Glonass have been activated.

[+Chief301]

Obvious question here...how do you know nothing was there?

 

I see you've found several caches, so your GPS must be working properly to some extent. On the ones you found, did the GPS seem to be more or less on the money?

 

Sometimes caches are just real hard to find. Were there a lot of recent DNF logs on those caches, or are others finding them without any problems?

 

Also make sure your GPS is set for decimal degrees format. It will make a huge difference in accuracy if you are using the wiring coordinate format.

[+The A-Team]

I find that my unit will say I am within, in some cases, 9ft - 6ft of cache...

If that's what you're GPS is saying, you're already getting excellent accuracy. With the wooded areas I'm usually in, my accuracy is often more in the range of 20-30 feet.

 

Just because your GPS may say you're standing on top of the cache, the hider's GPS may not have had the same level of accuracy. A general rule of thumb is that when your GPS reads zero, the cache could be anywhere within about 30 feet of where you're standing. When you get to within that 30 feet of GZ, it's best to put away the GPS and start looking with your eyes. Look for possible hiding places, especially things that match the hint or fit the name of the cache (ie. a cache named "Ole Stumpy"). If the difficulty rating is higher, the container may not be hidden in an obvious spot, or could be in plain sight but camouflaged so well that most people wouldn't realize it's the container.

[+StarBrand]

Don't expect the unit to put you directly on top of the cache.

 

The accuracy reading on your unit is just an estimate. It should be read something like "About 70% of the time under similar conditions, the true location might be within xx feet." Generally speaking the average accuracy of our handheld units is in the range of 12 to 25 feet. Once you are inside that radius - you are just going to have to start looking.

 

Here are some general hints:

 

Look for caches with a difficulty of 2 or less for your fist few caches. Stick with regular sized caches for your first few. Micros can be quite hard to find sometimes. Stick to areas you are familiar with. Look for anything out of place or unusual. Look for unusual piles of sticks, grass, leaves, rocks, sand, etc. Feel where you cannot look. Think vertical, not all caches are on the ground. Look up or at eye level. Look for traces of previous searches to zero in on the spot. Think like the hider - where would you put a container in this location? Look for things too new, too old, too perfect, not like the others, too many, too few. Change your perspective - a shift in lighting can sometimes reveal a cache. Keep in mind that many micros are magnetic or attached to something (via string, wire etc). Slowly expand your search area to about 40 feet from where your GPS says ground zero is. Bring garden gloves and a flashlight - they help! Be prepared to not find the cache more often then you think.

 

Most of all - have fun!!

[+NanCycle]

I am new to Geocaching and having a great time. I am wondering what is the most ideal setting for increased accuracy for my gps unit. I find that my unit will say I am within, in some cases, 9ft - 6ft of cache, but short of turning every leaf or rock over there is nothing there. This has happened several times after reviewing previous log notes. Is there a more ideal setting? both WAAS/ Glonass have been activated.

 

Sometimes you have to turn over every rock. (Until you find it; then you can stop turning over rocks.)

[+Cardinal Red]

Also make sure your GPS is set for decimal degrees minutes format ( HDDMM.mmm ) It will make a huge difference in accuracy if you are using the wrong coordinate format.

 

I'm sure you do know better but it just slipped out wrong. But what is a simple slip of no consequence to a veteran cacher can be VERY Confusing to a newbie. I had to point it out.

[+MRW 20]

Thank you for all of the great advice. My question was a bit unclear, in that I was wondering how a GZ unit may be able validate the accuracy of the given coordinates. In other words, is there a true zero that should be found first to identify the appropriate 'cache radius'. This is just a thought/observation. Thank you in advance for game tips .

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

Thank you for all of the great advice. My question was a bit unclear, in that I was wondering how a GZ unit may be able validate the accuracy of the given coordinates. In other words, is there a true zero that should be found first to identify the appropriate 'cache radius'. This is just a thought/observation. Thank you in advance for game tips .

The GZ gives you nothing.

 

Satellites from miles overhead are read by the GPSr and that computation (should) put you at GZ.

I think though, that you are failing to take other things into account.

1 ) the coordinates for the placement were garnered by another person (hopefully, but you never know for sure) using a GPSr.

2 ) the GPSr they used probably is not the same as yours and even then, an identical unit may well give a different (yet close) reading.

3 ) you may well be expecting far more from your unit than it can deliver. A consumer-grade GPSr cannot supply you with guaranteed EXACT coordinates. If you want EXACT, you are gonna have to dig deeper into your pocket (or bank account) for such equipment.

4 ) original placement coordinates may well have been dead-on, initially. But, you have yet to discover that there is a phenomenon called "cache migration". This stems partly from the "re-hide it better than you found it" concept; some cachers don't care that much (truly) or make a true effort to re-hide it properly; then there's the caching family -- Mom finds it, one of the kids or dad replaces it (they did not see where it was hidden).

 

If you expect more accuracy than 6-9 feet, you are (symbolically) wanting the cache delivered to you on a silver platter.

Remember, a cache is hidden to prevent the occasional passers-by from spotting it, too. You need to hunt harder than the passers-by.

[+Chief301]

Also make sure your GPS is set for decimal degrees minutes format ( HDDMM.mmm ) It will make a huge difference in accuracy if you are using the wrong coordinate format.

 

I'm sure you do know better but it just slipped out wrong. But what is a simple slip of no consequence to a veteran cacher can be VERY Confusing to a newbie. I had to point it out.

 

Thank you for the correction, I should have known I'd get it wrong. 😒

 

Allow me to rephrase.....

 

"Make sure your GPS is set to the proper format"

 

😊

[+Straight-Cache-Homey]

I think your problem is pretty common amongst new cachers. When my gf and I started a year ago, we took the GPS reading VERY literally. The GPS 'bounce' had us on different sides of the street, looking in areas that - looking back - simply made no sense. As others have said, the GPS is not exact. Let it get you to a general area and start looking for places it could be - under a boulder, nestled in a tree crack, etc. Go for easier ones and you'll get used to where people generally hide caches. Practice makes - almost - perfect. Good luck!

[+StarBrand]

Thank you for all of the great advice. My question was a bit unclear, in that I was wondering how a GZ unit may be able validate the accuracy of the given coordinates. In other words, is there a true zero that should be found first to identify the appropriate 'cache radius'. This is just a thought/observation. Thank you in advance for game tips .

No the readings we get are quite variable over time. The satellites overhead are in constant motion thus changing the 'geometry' of the calculations used to find coordinates. Variations in the number of sats in view, the strength of the signal being received, position relative to your body, foliage variations with the seasons, possible multipath errors due to some signal bounce etc.

 

Try this experiment to see what I am saying. Go out into your yard to a fixed spot - say like a fence post. Let your unit settle down for a bit and 'mark' the coordinates of that spot. (much in the same way as you would mark a new Geocache). Average those coordinates in the unit if you can. Now - at various times of day over the next few days - have your gps lead you to the recorded coordinates - get as close to zero feet away as you can and place a flag. Within a few days - you will likely have flags in a rough circle about 15 foot in diameter including the fence post somewhere within. Good easy demonstration of the slight variances these handheld units experience.

[+MRW 20]

Thank you 'Geo-community' advice will help to take experience and ability to a new level. A special thanks to Gitchee-Gummee &

StarBrand.

[+StoryCachers]

One other very important piece of advice: make sure you're running Garmin's latest firmware on your GPS. Like you, I own an etrex 20 and a few releases prior to the current release of firmware had issues w/ accuracy & tracking when you were moving at low speeds. It was driving me bonkers but I think the latest release finally has it fixed. The GPSr puts me in the general ballpark better than 90% of the time.