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Zeroing in on the cache


zebohunt

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I'm a newbie, batting about .500 on actually finding the caches I set out for. I'm curious what other people do when you get close, given that the icon/pushpin for the cache really means you've got a 20-30' radius to check out, right? (I'm using Garmin Oregon 450)

 

Here's what I've found:

--a cache that was on the opposite side of the trail the GPS said it would be on

--a cache that was only a camo match case, hanging from a tree (while my head was hanging downward, looking at the ground!)

--the coordinate I got at the location of the cache were not the same as the coordinates listed for the cache (what's with that?!)

 

I'm trying to find a methodical way...how's this sound: I'm at what looks like should be where the little bugger is (my track in on top of the icon for cache...but no!

 

I've started walking in concentric circles around the wannabe cache location. I'm now looking high and looking low. Is this a good method? Do the geocaching rules say sometimes you may need to move a rock/branch/log to find it? I got so frustrated today not finding the goodies!

 

What's the farthest distance you've found a cache from the "x-marks-the-spot" where it should have been?

 

Loving it, and learning! Would love to hear of people's methods when zeroing in on the prize

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Generally, your best bet is to find GZ (ground zero) and put away your GPS. Start looking at places where you might hide a cache. Think about the size and difficulty; if it's listed as a regular and the description says it's an ammo can, you have a better idea where it might be than if it's a micro. Don't just look for 0 feet on your GPS, accuracy and a variance in the units will probably not put you right on the cache. As you've already learned, it's not always down, look up and under and over and around and any other direction you can think of. Most of all, have fun :lol:

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Sounds right. The drunken Bee dance, it is affectionately known as. Circles, backtracking, etc, until finally finding the cache.

 

It is very common to have them under rocks, downed trees, in hollow logs, under a branch, etc. I have found micros wedged between the bark of trees. Searched everywhere I could, up and down, all around, left no stone unturned (then replaced) and was about to give up when I leaned against the tree and saw it. The light was just right at that angle and I was able to see the little bugger!

 

Your method works, it is about the same as mine.

 

the farthest from the posted GZ that I have found a cache was roughly 80ft. Confirmed by one other cacher as well. Not uncommon to have them 30-40 ft off of posted coords. Tree cover, cloud cover, not triangulating the coordinates when placing the hide, can all have an effect on the accuracy. Same goes for searching. Just because your GPSr shows you within 2ft of the coordinates, doesn't mean they are spot on. If the hider actually was off by 15-20 ft, due to conditions, etc, and you are only accurate to 15ft as a general rule, you could easily be 25-45 ft off at any moment.

 

Most of what I find my GPSr and iphone show me within 9 ft of in any direction, so I ain't complaining.

 

As you find more, you will learn the subtle nuances of the cache Ground Zero. You will start noticing the little things that aren't quite right or seem slightly out of place. You also will learn the hiding techniques of many cachers. Then you begin to know what to look for more easily.

 

Also, study different cache types. From larges to nanos, become familiar with them and you will start to be able to figure out how evil some of the hides can be, but it will open your eyes to all kinds of sneaky tactics.

 

This thread is of endless help in seeing what is out there that can be used as a cache container:

 

My link

 

HAppy Hunting!

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I've got about an 80% success rate with my droid 2.. one I didn't find and I read the comments and someone said it was a good 20 feet off from posted coordinates. Generally I'll sweep an area outside the treeline a couple of times and zero in on where I need to stop and walk, then I'll just put the droid away and start looking manually. Usually I can get within 5-10 feet if I'm not in the woods. If I still can't find it I'll sweep around to the other side of the cache's location and do another sweep to narrow it down more.

 

Of course with 9 posted finds I wouldn't take my advice as gospel or anything. :)

Edited by sholomar
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I'm going to answer your question a little differently by suggesting that you modify your expoectation of this activity.

 

If every listing took you to the exact spot that a cache was located the only information you would need is the size of the container. You would miss the fun of the hunt!

 

I have noticed that I have days where I find every cache and days where I struggle. When I can not find the hide I always step away from the zero point and ask myself "where would I place the cache?" I have found many that way without the GPSr. While experience has taught me a lot there is also the quality of the hide and the style of the player who has placed the hide.

 

Don;t forget to consider that the player that hid the cache might have used a Magellon and you might be using a Garmin. The differences in the "cip sets" and how they read the GPS signals can make the co-ords off. Now if you are using a cell phone app you may not even be actually using a GPS. Cell accuracy is related to the triagulation of multipe tower signals. There is no substitution for a real GPS particularly in low population areas.

 

Bottom line..... Give it time and experience will help.

 

Fins a local caching organization and go out with an experienced player!

Edited by klipsch49er
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I think I'm a newbie with 184 finds. I depend highly on posts and clues. I couldn't find my way out of a paper bag. My sense of direction is HORRIBLE. I am trying to get better with Geocaching. It's really helping me get to know the areas around where I live. If I'm having a hard time finding a cache, which is alot of the time, I stop paying attention to the GPS, step back and look for good "spots". With that being said, I've stepped on caches, I've walked just below a cache. The great part of caching is that you get better and your geo-senses get keener. I was not good at the beginning, but I'm getting better.

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Open your eyes. The GPS will get you close. Your senses and instincts will find the cache. A person hid it, they only marked it with a GPS that didn't have the same accuracy as yours, or even the same satellites overhead. So get close, and start thinking "Where would I hide it so a cacher can find it, and a muggle can't?".

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Another thing to do is to look for things that don't quite look right. A pile of sticks that are all lined the same way. A mound of rocks in an are where there are mostly just random rocks lying around. A rock, brick, etc that isn't quite the same color as the rest in the area. Sometimes just a feeling that "something over there looks funny". Also, look for a good place to "hide" a cache as opposed to a good place to "find" one. The difference is subtle but profound when you do it.

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--the coordinate I got at the location of the cache were not the same as the coordinates listed for the cache (what's with that?!)

 

If you went to the location and found a container with different coordinates, it sounds like a multicache. In that case you would need to enter the new set of coordinates into your gps unit and go to the new location, where you will either find the cache or another container with new coordinates.

 

You may need to move things around to find the cache. Just use some thought, don't break or damage things and avoid moving rocks in rock walls or foundations if at all possible. But "normal" rocks, dead branches, stumps and so on are usually fair game.

 

As far as technique goes, I'm usually scanning ahead for hiding spots by the time I'm within a hundred feet. Within fifty feet I'll be actively looking for likely locations. For average caches, that often works, and if it doesn't, then by the time I get to ground zero, I have a mental checklist of places to look at.

 

When that fails, I usually drift around the location, with an eye on the unit until I can pin an approximate ground zero, then I'll start searching from there and expand outwards.

 

The location you arrive at is usually only going to be approximate. I have found caches upwards of fifty feet away, though they are often within twenty or less.

 

Beware of assumptions. Clever hiders will take advantage of those.

 

Frustration, unfortunately is part of the game. Fortunately, it is counterbalanced by elation.

 

Since you appear to be very new, you could try restricting yourself to easier caches (i.e. 2 star difficulty or less) and avoid micro sizes at first. That way you can gain some experience and have some fun while honing your geosenses.

 

Hang in there and keep trying, you'll get better. And most of all, have fun!

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The analogy I've always used has been:

 

You're going into a sports stadium and instead of a ticket, they give you coordinates to your seat.

Terrible coordinates will only get you into the stadium.

Very Poor coordinates will only tell you on which side of the stadium you're seat is located.

Poor coordinates will tell you in which section you're seat is.

Good coordinates will get you to within a few rows of your seat.

Great coordinates will sometimes point right at your seat.

 

Sometimes you'll get great coordinates but it's not often. Sometimes you'll get poor coordinates but it's not often, either. Most of the time, you'll get good coordinates and that means you'll have to search around unless the hiding spot is very obvious. Even if it's very obvious, sometimes the CO will pull the old switcharoo and hide it somewhere other than the obvious beacon.

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The furthest I've found a cache from my ground zero has been about 150 feet, but that was actually for a puzzle I had solved incorrectly. The coordinates from the correct solution were actually very good.

 

Other than that, the furthest I've found a cache from my ground zero has been about 50 feet. That's actually happened a few times. Once was in a narrow canyon where satellite reception was poor; the owner apologized for the soft coordinates and provided a good hint to make up for it.

 

Another time was really odd: I read in the past logs that the cache was about 50 feet from the coordinates, and sure enough, it was about 50 feet from my ground zero. But when I took coordinates at the cache location so I could include them with my log, I got the posted coordinates, the same coordinates that I had seen at my original ground zero. I'd seen that before around tall buildings where signal multipathing confused the device. But this time was on the top of a grassy hill with a perfect view of the sky.

 

Anyway, here are some more beginners tips that I've posted before:

 

A common recommendation for beginners is to stick with small small.gif size, regular regular.gif size, and large large.gif size caches. Until you're more experienced, avoid micro micro.gif size caches, some of which are smaller than most beginners can imagine (sometimes called "nanos"). Save those for later, after you have some experience.

 

Also, stick with caches that have a difficulty rating of no more than 2 stars stars2.gif. Save the more difficult ones for later. You may also want to choose caches with easy terrain ratings. (The difficulty rating tells you how hard it is to find the cache once you get there. The terrain rating tells you how hard it is to get there.) And it is often best to start with traditional 2.gif caches, which will be at the published coordinates. Multi-caches 3.gif or mystery/puzzle caches 8.gif or other cache types can require more work just to figure out where the container is located.

 

Under ideal conditions, a consumer GPSr will be accurate to about 3m (10'). That applies both to your device, and to the cache owner’s device, so you may find the container 15-20' from ground zero under ideal conditions. Under less than ideal conditions, both GPSr readings can be much less accurate. Once you get within that distance of ground zero, put your device away and look around for places where a container could be hidden.

 

Go ahead and read the cache's additional hints (if provided), and read the past logs and look at any photos in the cache's image gallery. They may help you understand what you're looking for, and how/where it may be hidden. It may also help to look at some of the cache containers available online. For example, check out the cache containers sold by Groundspeak. Also, take a look at the Pictures - Cool Cache Containers (CCC's) thread in the forums.

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