Camo'ing caches

[+zodiac73]

I bought some camo tape thinking it would be really quick and easy to camo lock&lock tubs but it's actually quite fiddly and time consuming! Also, the locking tabs are a pain in the butt to camo and they stand out like a sore thumb if you leave them as they are.

 

Any tips for camo'ing tubs that won't leave bits un-camo'd ? I'm assuming spray paint is the answer but don't know what paint to use, that doesn't cost a fortune!

 

Paint or otherwise, all help is appreciated!

 

z.

[+StarBrand]

I use spray paint - the krylon fusion flat camo colors - that paint sticks to plastic without having to sand anything. I mix and match for my own camo patterns.

 

The real bonus is that the paint helps protect the container from the UV damage of the sun and time.

[+BBWolf+3Pigs]

I don't bother applying camo to my lock&locks anymore. I choose the size of the container to fit the hide location, and make sure it can't be seen, using natural camo (rocks, logs, etc) to hide it.

 

No issues with caches going missing so far.

[+briansnat]

Find a plastic primer made by Valspar. Once you spray the container with it, you can apply any spray paint over it and it won't flake or scratch. I've experimented with Krylon Fusion but found that the paint will scratch off. My Valspar treated containers look great even after years in the wild. The only way to scratch the paint off the containers is to take some of the plastic with it.

 

I've also experimented with different brands of plastic primer and Valspar is the best.

Edited December 2, 2011 by briansnat

[+PokerLuck]

I've used the Valspar primer that briansnat talks about, and I can confirm that it works great! I put down a primer coat and follow it with a uniform flat grey color. Then I take brown, black, and deep green spray cans and hit the container with short pulses just to put some irregularly shaped spots on. It's not hard to make it look random. It does a very good job at camoflage, and it's very cheap.

Edited December 2, 2011 by PokerLuck

[+NanCycle]

I use spray paint - the krylon fusion flat camo colors - that paint sticks to plastic without having to sand anything. I mix and match for my own camo patterns.

 

The real bonus is that the paint helps protect the container from the UV damage of the sun and time.

 

I use this also, and while the paint is still wet I sprinkle on some "turf" made in various colors/textures for model RR etc layouts. Use more or less, as considered appropriate for the location.

[+The VanDucks]

Most of our caches are lock and lock boxes, and the paint I prefer is spray paint, the "Rust-Oleum Camouflage, Non reflective finish, ultra-flat." It's sold at Home Depot, and I usually combine the deep forest green and black on the boxes. I don't use primer or sand the boxes. We are in Virginia, so our climate is wet, with lots of rain and some snow in the winter. The paint lasts for about a year or more, depending on exposure (some of the caches are more protected from the elements than others.) If I check on the cache and the paint has worn off, I bring the box home and re-spray it. Seems to work just fine. I find that some sort of camo paint is better than leaving the boxes clear, because some cachers don't do a very good job of re-hiding the caches!

Edited December 2, 2011 by The VanDucks

[+Manville Possum]

Find a plastic primer made by Valspar. Once you spray the container with it, you can apply any spray paint over it and it won't flake or scratch. I've experimented with Krylon Fusion but found that the paint will scratch off. My Valspar treated containers look great even after years in the wild. The only way to scratch the paint off the containers is to take some of the plastic with it.

 

I've also experimented with different brands of plastic primer and Valspar is the best.

I use Krylon Fusion also just because it is the cheap way to go. Have you ever used the purple primer made for gluing pvc pipe together? I goes a long way. I used to paint dirt bikes and that purple stuff worked great on the tanks where other paint primers failed. Gas fumes cause the paint to bubble and peel. Nothing worked perfect, but the primer not made for painting worked better.

[+HHD]

Does it matter the type of paint you use? After the valspar primer I mean.

[+Isonzo Karst]

First, a thank you for the correct form of "camo'ing" ;-).*

 

I sometimes tape the tops of lock and locks, and use a permanent black marker on the exposed tabs. This works okay.

 

 

* There have been a number of threads on "camouflaged"; its common misspellings and the various ways it's shortened. Worst common error is "commode" (really ), and camo'ed is, of course, correct. Cammoed seems to be winning the usage war, at least among geocachers. I don't know why people feel the need to double the "m".

[+Gan Dalf]

First, a thank you for the correct form of "camo'ing" ;-).*

 

[snip] I don't know why people feel the need to double the "m".

 

Probably because they don't know any better. I've been known to do it myself but now that I know, I'll stop.

[+sshipway]

Found some 'rock' spray paint here. You spray it on (it sticks nicely to lock&locks) and it has a concrete/rock-like finish. I've sprayed a lock&lock box with the grey colour and it looks like a concrete block. A bit pricy at NZ$16 for the can but works well (takes a day to dry properly though)

Steve

[+BBWolf+3Pigs]

Found some 'rock' spray paint here. You spray it on (it sticks nicely to lock&locks) and it has a concrete/rock-like finish. I've sprayed a lock&lock box with the grey colour and it looks like a concrete block. A bit pricy at NZ$16 for the can but works well (takes a day to dry properly though)

Steve

 

A trick for the stone paints, is to first paint a base coat with a compatible "plain" paint (such as gray for your concrete example). This way you use less of the expensive paint, since you don't have to cover the entire object it.

[knowschad]

Found some 'rock' spray paint here. You spray it on (it sticks nicely to lock&locks) and it has a concrete/rock-like finish. I've sprayed a lock&lock box with the grey colour and it looks like a concrete block. A bit pricy at NZ$16 for the can but works well (takes a day to dry properly though)

Steve

 

Plus you need a plastic primer base and a clear top-coat. And it still isn't very tough. Plus, even with blowing the jet clear by spraying upside-down, they clog. Great looking stuff, but spendy!

 

One of these days, I'm going to see what it costs to chrome plate an ammo can. I think that'd be so cool.

[+briansnat]

Does it matter the type of paint you use? After the valspar primer I mean.

 

No, once the primer is applied you can put whatever you want over it.

[+JesandTodd]

One of these days, I'm going to see what it costs to chrome plate an ammo can. I think that'd be so cool.

 

Hopefully, less than $110...

 

[Clan Riffster]

I prefer some sort of physical camo, as our eyes are drawn to straight lines in nature, and spritzing some paint on a cube won't make it less of a cube. I've had a lot of locals ask me about my methods, so I put together a photo tutorial which they can read at their leisure. Essentially, it involves using paint, natural floral moss and/or camo burlap. with the end results looking like these:

 

 

[+Gan Dalf]

I prefer some sort of physical camo,

 

[snip]

 

Essentially, it involves using paint, natural floral moss and/or camo burlap. with the end results looking like these:

 

 

And what about the fork and the kibble, or is that part of the swag? :laughing: (joking)

Edited December 5, 2011 by FobesMan

[+HHD]

Ok looking all over for the valspar primer....what store did you get it from? Is it a spray paint?

[hoosier guy]

The position of the cache can be camo as well. For example most cachers who place hanging caches place them at eye level next to the trunk of a tree. Place the cache higer or lower if possible. Try to anticipate how an experienced cacher would look at the are you place your cache and keep away from the forked tree, pile of rocks, etc

[+Ed_M]

 

Ever lose your cooler in the woods?

[russnbunny]

Ok looking all over for the valspar primer....what store did you get it from? Is it a spray paint?

Home Depot

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

Talk here is of paint. Suggestions have been great, too! The camo Krylon Fusion is super (make sure that you get that, and not one of the "flat"-colored paints -- they s***). The primer helps loads, too.

 

The key, the real KEY to camouflage is not color, as any earthtone is a good camo color. It is the elimination of glare, or shine that creates good camouflage. Eliminate glare and you can hide things in front of a person's face.

 

The OP mentioned camo tape... it can be good or bad, for different reasons.

 

1) Most of the carp that you can get today, shines more brightly than does an untreated Lock & Lock®... as geocachers "need" non-glare camouflage, perhaps we should simply boycott this kind of junk. It is made and sold just so they (the manufacturer and secondly the retailer that sells the junk -- maybe they just don't know better, or even care) can get your money. Some of the camo tape is good, but you really have to search long and hard to find any that doesn't glare like a shining lightbulb!

 

2) Much of the cheap-type camo duct tape is of such poor quality, it doesn't adhere well nor is it very flexible (especially when cold). It oftentimes just comes off on it's own and turns into geo-trash -- Refer to item 1).

 

3) Invariably, you will find water-filled caches because some CO used the tape and compromised the water seal of the cache while trying to get it "camouflaged", or a cacher did so with one of those loose pieces of tape -- refer to item 2).

 

Now, taking the effort to find good camo tape is admirable. The stuff is out there that remains flexible, adheres very well and doesn't shine like the setting sun. Once you find it and apply it well, it is a marvelous thing. Good stuff = Good caches.

 

As pointed out earlier, natural camouflage is probably best to hide something. It is however, site dependent and subject to inadvertent abuse by other cachers.

 

So, there are three routes to go... choose wisely.

 

EDIT: Added third choice.

Edited December 7, 2011 by Gitchee-Gummee

[+Dgwphotos]

I use the Krylon camo paint, spraying the container green, then I take a fern frond and lightly spray black over the fern frond, so that I get an outline of the frond. I usually lightly sand the container prior to painting it, just to scuff it up and allow it to adhere better to the container. I use this method on both ammo cans and lock n' locks.

[+craftyhillbilly3]

Thanks for the tips!(as I sit here and remove shiney wanna-be Tape from 2 L&L's) Any help on removing left over adhesive that is left?I'm thinking about leaving the goo just for texture...

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

Thanks for the tips!(as I sit here and remove shiney wanna-be Tape from 2 L&L's) Any help on removing left over adhesive that is left?I'm thinking about leaving the goo just for texture...

That would be the easiest thing to do, but not the wisest. It (the goo) will eventually flake off of it's own accord. Remember? There is a reason that is low-quality (good quality leaves little to no residue).

 

Goo-Gone® works and it won't harm the container, but wash the container with soap and water afterwards.

[+craftyhillbilly3]

After some backyard testing you are correct about getting rid of the goo.Plus this will probley

keep the finders fingers from getting sticky,Like mine are now...

Edited December 8, 2011 by craftyhillbilly3

[Clan Riffster]

Another consideration;

For a batch of Therapak canisters, I opted to start with a black primer base, selecting Krylon Fusion For Plastic to start. There seemed to be some problem with this batch, as even after several minutes of shaking, it still sputtered and spat like it wasn't shaken at all.

 

Because it wasn't coating very evenly, it took a whole can to paint 15 of these canisters, (roughly 10" tall by 4" wide). After the primer coat dried, I applied brown, olive and khaki, then stenciled them. They looked great, but the paint did not adhere, even though they were all roughed up with sanding blocks. I've used this paint, on these canisters, before, with no problems, so I wrote Krylon about the problem. Krylon sent me a new can, along with some advice on spray painting plastics:

 

They suggested cleaning the plastic with an ammonia based cleaner, such as Windex, then thoroughly washing & drying, prior to painting. My next batch was a set of Lock & Locks, so I tried this, and it worked well.

 

After painting:

 

After hiding, you can see the paint is already flaking off, just from being in my backpack:

 

After being nibbled on by a bear:

[+The_Incredibles_]

The paint guy at our local Walmart gave me a tip. He said that lock n locks have a layer of silicone on them to keep them from sticking to the mould at the factory.

 

He suggested first cleaning the lock n locks with Rubbing Alcohol before applying spray paint. He swears by Fusion, he said he did some deck chairs 3 years ago with this paint and the color is still perfect.

 

I haven't tried the rubbing alcohol yet but it makes sense and will try with my next caches. I've tried sanding, but dont' like the way it looks.

[+Viridios]

If you are looking for camouflage tape, check your local sporting goods store. My son loves camouflage, so we picked up some camouflage hockey tape for him. He loves it for his hockey stick, and I'll steal some to cover containers. It's fabric, thick, holds well, and looks pretty good.

[+power69]

If you are looking for camouflage tape, check your local sporting goods store. My son loves camouflage, so we picked up some camouflage hockey tape for him. He loves it for his hockey stick, and I'll steal some to cover containers. It's fabric, thick, holds well, and looks pretty good.

camo tape in colder climates is fine however in az summers there tends to be sticky "goo" with these cammo'd containers.

[+DontPanic67]

Something I've found with a couple varieties of duct tape (silver & camo) is the lifting edges and corners can be molded with a lighter. OK, I like to use a torch but it's the same idea...

 

Heat up the corner and press it into a hot pad until it cools off. This also helps anneal all the edges together too.

 

I agree, paint is the best way to go but sometimes "simple, stupid" also needs to be reliable.

[+zodiac73]

The camp tape I bought is almost like fabric, and is definitely non sheen. It isn't adhesive as such but sticks to itself. I think it's for camo'ing gun barrels. You need to glue it but I've used double sided sticky tape too. Just takes ages!

[+robgso]

Another consideration;

For a batch of Therapak canisters, I opted to start with a black primer base, selecting Krylon Fusion For Plastic to start. There seemed to be some problem with this batch, as even after several minutes of shaking, it still sputtered and spat like it wasn't shaken at all.

 

Because it wasn't coating very evenly, it took a whole can to paint 15 of these canisters, (roughly 10" tall by 4" wide). After the primer coat dried, I applied brown, olive and khaki, then stenciled them. They looked great, but the paint did not adhere, even though they were all roughed up with sanding blocks. I've used this paint, on these canisters, before, with no problems, so I wrote Krylon about the problem. Krylon sent me a new can, along with some advice on spray painting plastics:

 

They suggested cleaning the plastic with an ammonia based cleaner, such as Windex, then thoroughly washing & drying, prior to painting. My next batch was a set of Lock & Locks, so I tried this, and it worked well.

 

After painting:

 

After hiding, you can see the paint is already flaking off, just from being in my backpack:

 

After being nibbled on by a bear:

I've some some of the Therapak canisters. How are you removing the labels? About the best method I've found is sand them off. It would be nice to find a solvent that didn't damage the container.

[Clan Riffster]

I've some some of the Therapak canisters. How are you removing the labels?

I don't. I just scuff them up and paint over them. You can see in the picture of the cache the bear gnawed on that, other than the lid, the area where the decal is, is the only area that retained the paint.

[+spatten26.2]

Back to the initial question of using camo TAPE, I find it's easiest to do the bottom thoroughly first and let the tape go up the side a good inch at the ends. Then do the sides. Also, I melt the tape just a bit. Light a candle, and just heat up the overlapping seams a bit and press them firmly. This kind of fuzes the tape to itself. This works really well on awkward surfaces like those tiered-tops of pill bottles.

[+Viridios]

While the camo hockey tape is good, I also like to use camo fabric. I picked up a good size swatch that will cover at least 3 or 4 PB jars for about 7$, and glue it on using weld-bond glue. The fabric will pick up dirt and mud, and help add to the camo. I have had a peanut butter container como'ed in a hole in a tree for a year with no issues. Went to do maintenance a few times and found it frozen in place with no ill effects.

[Clan Riffster]

...and glue it on using weld-bond glue.

Hmmm... One of the few adhesives I haven't tried. Thanx for the tip!

[+Gan Dalf]

I've some some of the Therapak canisters. How are you removing the labels?

I don't. I just scuff them up and paint over them. You can see in the picture of the cache the bear gnawed on that, other than the lid, the area where the decal is, is the only area that retained the paint.

What's a Therapack container?

[russnbunny]

I spray glue mine then roll em in grass clippings

[Clan Riffster]

I've some some of the Therapak canisters. How are you removing the labels?

I don't. I just scuff them up and paint over them. You can see in the picture of the cache the bear gnawed on that, other than the lid, the area where the decal is, is the only area that retained the paint.

What's a Therapack container?

They are heavy duty plastic jars with gasketed screw on lids.

I prefer the medium sized ones. I get 15 of them for about $30

http://www.therapak.com/catalog/canisters_95kpa

Edited December 24, 2011 by Clan Riffster

[I!]

The paint guy at our local Walmart gave me a tip. He said that lock n locks have a layer of silicone on them to keep them from sticking to the mould at the factory.

 

He suggested first cleaning the lock n locks with Rubbing Alcohol before applying spray paint. He swears by Fusion, he said he did some deck chairs 3 years ago with this paint and the color is still perfect.

With my first attempt at spray-painting, I used white spirit to clean the lock-n-lock, then rubbed off the excess with a paper towel and applied a thin layer of Krylon Fusion. After whatever the recommended time was (a day?), I sprayed a full coating onto the box. Then I think a week later I gave it one last going-over. The box is in great condition 2+ years later on an exposed hill side.

 

On subsequent attempts, I tried to cut corners: it never worked out as well again.

[+JohnnyVegas]

I bought some camo tape thinking it would be really quick and easy to camo lock&lock tubs but it's actually quite fiddly and time consuming! Also, the locking tabs are a pain in the butt to camo and they stand out like a sore thumb if you leave them as they are.

 

Any tips for camo'ing tubs that won't leave bits un-camo'd ? I'm assuming spray paint is the answer but don't know what paint to use, that doesn't cost a fortune!

 

Paint or otherwise, all help is appreciated!

 

z.

I am not a big fan of camo tape, the cheap stuff reflects sunlight (I have found caches because of that) My first choice in Camo is camo fabric, I apply it to the cache with a hot glue gun, I also glue lose pieces of fabric to the outside of the cache. The fabric will not reflect light, it does not have a glossy finish. Must fabric stores seel camo and it is not very expensive. Some of the 35 mm films cans I have hing in bushes are so hard to see that I have replaced some of mine when I could not find myh own hides. One cache loged that he found three of my film cans in one bush.