Tip For Placing A Cache

[Hunter275]

Have any tips for placing a cache? Post em!

[+dorqie]

Hundreds!

My best though is to place a cache that if you found it, you'd give a favourite point to.

[+sword fern]

Watertight containers, Scenic places- there are many more!

 

Pet Peeve- ALWAYS (and I do mean always) get permission from the land manager if there is one.

[+KBfamily]

Remember the UNEXPECTED factor....either the container is unexpected, the location is unexpected, or the way of hiding it was unexpected.....OR the number of ticks now crawling up my leg is TOTALLY unexpected

Edited July 22, 2011 by KBfamily

[+dorqie]

I noticed that you only have one find. I'd suggest finding a handful more. Find different types of caches, in different types of areas. Learn what you like and what you don't and hide a cache based on that.

[+sword fern]

ROR the number of ticks now crawling up my leg is TOTALLY unexpected

Ive learnt not to read posts about ticks.

 

** Shudder**

[TheCacheSeeker]

Look for good spots to hide a cache, like behind a stump, in a tree hole, in and around a tree, and much more. Be creative. And don't forget to read the cache guidelines: http://www.geocaching.com/about/guidelines.aspx.

And the Knowledge Books may be helpful too: http://support.Groundspeak.com/index.php?pg=kb.chapter&id=22

http://support.Groundspeak.com/index.php?pg=kb.chapter&id=38

Last of all, remember, DON'T BURY THE CACHE!!!

Edited July 22, 2011 by TheCacheSeeker

[+L0ne.R]

Don't place one until you're ready for the investment, the commitment and responsibility of cache ownership

 

Investment

• Financial

• a good watertight container
• gas money to drive back and forth to your cache when it needs maintenance
• money for swag if you plant a swag size cache (which I hope you will)
• money to replace a cache if it becomes damaged or goes missing
• money for a dedicated GPS unit to get the best coordinates you can

• Time
  • the time you take to find a good hiding spot
  • the time you take to quickly respond to maintenance issues
  • the time you take to occassionally check on the cache condition (to remove junk from the box, wipe down the container, replace an old container that's starting to deteriorate)
  • the time you take to keep up with your email to watch for posts about the condition of your cache and the cache locationthe time you take to edit your cache listing if required (disable/enable, Owner Maintenance logs, notes, minor edits to the page if necessary)

Commitment

• • hopefully many years of commitment to maintaining your cache listing and your physical cache and the geocaching community by maintaining a quality cache that remains a quality cache throughout the years that it's in place
  • don't hide a cache to see if you'll like geocaching, find out whether you enjoy it first and are ready to commit to it long term before hiding one

Responsibility

• be a good steward of the land and plant where damage will not occur
• watch the location for damage
• when it's time to archive the cache, disable your cache, pick up the remains of the box and then archive the cache
• don't abandon the cache
• don't expect the geocaching community to take care of the cache

[Hunter275]

I was going to go buy a Ammo Box and use that, put some door seal on the lid so it stays sealed.

 

Remember the UNEXPECTED factor....either the container is unexpected, the location is unexpected, or the way of hiding it was unexpected.....OR the number of ticks now crawling up my leg is TOTALLY unexpected

 

I am going to do at least 10 more finds before I place, I just wanted to start learning now.

Edited July 22, 2011 by Hunter275

[+Ecylram]

An article I wrote on the subject: http://www.geocachingcolo.com/news/viewer.php?artid=9

[+Crow-T-Robot]

I was going to go buy a Ammo Box and use that, put some door seal on the lid so it stays sealed.

When you buy your ammo can, inspect the seal. If the seal is good, there is no need to add anything else to keep it sealed.

[+The_Incredibles_]

Find at least 20 first, preferably 50. Then you'll know exactly what makes a good hide. You'll be able to see which containers are watertight and which aren't. What type of swag goes rusty and which doesn't. Also, read the Groundspeak knowledge books on hiding a cache.

[+Lieblweb]

Think about cacher safety!!

 

Always have parking coordinates. You should never (IMO) make people pull off the side of a road to get a cache. Think of the children who may dart out into the path of traffic.

 

Always be specific in your cache listings. If your cache is near or on the side of a roadway - state that in the cache and tell people to use caution.

 

If bushwhacking is involved, state that in the listing.

[+L0ne.R]

Think about cacher safety!!

 

Always have parking coordinates. You should never (IMO) make people pull off the side of a road to get a cache. Think of the children who may dart out into the path of traffic.

 

Always be specific in your cache listings. If your cache is near or on the side of a roadway - state that in the cache and tell people to use caution.

 

If bushwhacking is involved, state that in the listing.

 

Good points.

 

Regarding the bushwacking - yes, please state how much bushwacking is involved. I'm not a fan of bushwacking and I don't like to get close to the destination only to find that I still need to bushwack through heavy brush for another 400 meters. Also if no bushwacking is involved but the path twists and turns away from the cache at some point, it's nice to mention in the description that no bushwacking is required, stay on the trail. It's so common for people to bushwack only to find that the box is right next to a trail.

 

And this brings to mind Terrain ratings.....please be accurate about the terrain rating. You'll find a link to the D/T rating system right on the online submission form.....http://www.geocaching.com/hide/rate.aspx

 

I'm recovering from a broken leg and have realized how important it is to have accurate terrain ratings. For example: the hike to the cache is on a flat stone-dust rail-to-trail, but the cache is hidden off trail about 20 meters down a steep embankment under a log. The terrain rating is not a 1.5. Don't rate the flat rail-to-trail portion of the walk (but you can mention in the cache description that it's easy to get to except for the last 20m). You want to rate it for the steep hill which would make it a 3.

 

From the GC rating system: Terrain is likely off-trail. May have one or more of the following: some overgrowth, some steep elevation changes, ....

[+L0ne.R]

I was going to go buy a Ammo Box and use that, put some door seal on the lid so it stays sealed.

 

Remember the UNEXPECTED factor....either the container is unexpected, the location is unexpected, or the way of hiding it was unexpected.....OR the number of ticks now crawling up my leg is TOTALLY unexpected

 

I am going to do at least 10 more finds before I place, I just wanted to start learning now.

 

You're on the right track. How are you going to get your coordinates?

You need to use a dedicated GPS. You want accurate coordinates. Don't use an app or online maps. You'll upset cachers if your coordinates are more then 30 feet off.

If you don't have a dedicated GPS, get to know some local geocachers who have a good reputation for hiding caches. See if they could help you out with tips and techniques and suggested locations. When they go out with you they can provide you with an accurate averaged reading. To hook up with geocachers go to a local event or post a request to meet on your local GC board or contact your local geocaching association.

Edited July 22, 2011 by Lone R

[+NeverSummer]

I'm working on an article on just this subject for our local organization. Here's some exerpts:

 

In the early days of geocaching (summer 2001), quite a few people who were active in the geocaching.com forums came up with explanations of the rating system over a great deal of discussion. In the end, that group came to a consensus of suggested definitions of ratings, which is the best they could do. Ultimately, you alone are the best judge for rating your cache.

An important key to improving and maintaining high cache quality is to think about how and why we are placing our caches. Carefully considering factors like actual and seasonally affected difficulty/terrain levels, as well as the question "Who am I hiding this from?" can give you a better perspective while hiding your geocache. Use of the “Clayjar” rating system, careful consideration for the location, and being aware of how your cache is described can make the hunt, and hide more enjoyable for all visitors to your geocaches.

 

An important tool in determining your cache’s difficulty and terrain, the “Clayjar system” was created to help each geocacher create and use a rating that was nearly universal across borders. Found at http://www.geocaching.com/hide/rate.aspx, the rating system allows you to look carefully at the scenarios involved with finding your geocache once it is listed. The key here is to use the system to thoughtfully help determine the “D/T” rating for your geocache. Once you have entered your answers to the question, you can see the correlation more clearly of how a cache can be rated based on the whole context of the hide and seeking, versus simply choosing a rating off of the chart without considering the whole hide. Remember: The chart describes the hide AFTER you have considered all factors of the hunt as determined on the Clayjar system survey.

 

Careful, honest and regular use of the Clayjar rating system will certainly help all geocachers better understand the rationale behind the D/T ratings for a cache listing. Simply using the above chart to rate your cache will rely on your interpretation of the rating. Using the full questionnaire to determine your cache’s rating will take many factors into consideration. It is important to understand that your cache hide involves more than just the immediate “ground zero”—a cache hunt will include the terrain on the hike in, how much bushwhacking is involved, and how difficult it might be to see your cache once you get to “ground zero” in full leaf-cover.

 

To aid in the hunt, cache descriptions can include a “hint”. A hint is meant to be decrypted at the cache site, after a search has failed and a further clue is needed. It should give additional information about the cache or its location. Many cachers appreciate a good hint when a cache may be difficult to locate for many reasons. Perhaps there are many rocks or trees it could be hidden under, or stealthy behavior may be difficult, and a hint can make the find less intrusive or alarming to muggles. An effective hint should narrow the search area. The examples below will likely help with the search:

• "low" (ybj)

• "reach up" (ernpu hc)

• "not in wall" (abg va jnyy)

• "rock" (ebpx) or "tree" (gerr) might be useful, but NOT if the area is full of rocks or trees.

 

Finding a balance between too specific and not enough information will likely take some thought or cunning. Some hints are fun, little riddles. A “spoiler” hint is appropriate in an area where you want to protect the surroundings or definitely shorten the search. (A “spoiler” is information that can give details away and ruin the experience of something. For example, telling someone the end of a movie before they see it is a “spoiler”.)

Remember, there IS such a thing as a “Bad hint”. Parking instructions and driving directions are bad hints. Those should be listed as Additional Waypoints or simply displayed in the Long Description. Hints like "too easy for a hint", "hint will be provided after DNF," or "email me for a hint" do not help. Remember, the hint is decrypted on site after a search has begun and failed. The cacher is seeking useful information for the hunt at that moment. Groundspeak reminds us that none of these examples are useful in the field, and it would be better to leave the hint field blank rather than using any of them.

 

Another helpful hint is to be sure to use the description of your cache listing as a way to keep cachers up-to-date on changing circumstances, and important information about the area or access to the hide. Your listing and hint should be used as a tool to keep caches safe from muggles, cachers safe from harm or breaking the law, and to keep geocaching out of the local police reports. While considering your geocache hide, It is important to ask yourself some questions about your hide as you prepare your listing. Remember, you can always update/change your Difficulty/Terrain ratings, or include relevant information in your descriptions.

 

One of the principle considerations behind hiding a cache is who you are trying to hide it from: Are you hiding it from the cache seeker? (a “sneaky hide”) Or, are you hiding it from muggles? (a well-hidden hide) If hiding from a cache seeker, consider increasing the difficulty for the cache. Are you hiding your cache from muggles? Be sure to give a hint or clear description to make sure the cache is located with minimal damage to the surrounding area. (Remember, Difficulty and Terrain are not necessarily related.) Are you hiding your cache from both seekers and muggles? Be sure to think about how your listing, hint and placement might impact the surrounding area, or how a lingering seeker might raise an alarm with muggles. Remember that one person’s Difficulty “2” is another person’s Difficulty “4”, and be considerate with your listing and hints. When you might be in doubt, it never hurts to round up, and use feedback from geocachers’ logs to adjust as time goes on.

 

In addition to the tools provided by Groundspeak at geocaching.com, we can use a helpful list of questions to ask as you prepare your hide. This list is by no means all-inclusive, a requirement, or endorsement—Rather, think of these questions as a way to improve the image of geocaching, and to make your caches really stand out as excellent examples of what this activity can provide.

Start by asking: “How will your geocache improve the credibility of the sport, protect our natural resources and strengthen the community of geocachers, and those who visit your caches?”

• Why would I bring someone here?

• Can I get permissions?

• What is the best spot in this location to hide a cache?

• What is the best container for that spot?

• Can I maintain this cache as necessary if I place it here?

• Who am I hiding it from?

• What will this area look like after 6 months of cache-seeking traffic?

• Can the cache last without being detected by muggles?

• When it IS detected by muggles, do they have good reason to suspect it's a bomb or trash?

 

After answering these questions, get permissions, make your cache to suit the spot (instead of using a cache you already have out of convenience) and make a good cache page. Be sure to use Reviewer notes to have a discussion with your reviewer about your hide, and cache description. Then, come back and ask yourself all those above questions again, and add a few more:

 

• Have I taken into account the seasonal differences for the ratings of my cache?

• Have I accurately rated the difficulty of this cache for a "novice" cacher?

• Have I accurately rated the terrain for the seasons, or otherwise?

• Does my description address any seasonal differences in difficulty or terrain?

• Would a good hint address the seasonal differences or Difficulty/Terrain ratings I have chosen?

• Have I chosen applicable attributes to guide seekers in planning for their hunt?

• Can I easily do a little better?

• Have a communicated permissions and other relevant information about my hide to the reviewer?

• Is my listing ready to be published?

 

When hiding a cache, we can suggest asking if the hide can in any way affect geocaching in a negative way or draw negative attention to the sport. When seeking a cache, we might suggest asking if your search will draw negative attention to the sport, cause damage to the area or possibly destroy the hide. Be sure to think carefully about these, and other questions, as you consider how your geocache improves the credibility of the sport, protects our natural resources and strengthens the community of geocachers.

 

The list is a great start, but is far from complete. As said in the MNGCA forums, “We all cache differently, and because of that, there is no right answer to how to place a cache. ‘Numbers cachers’ may place a skirt lifter which fits within their definition of a worthy cache, while hikers and bikers may place a cache a mile down the trail. You may have ‘evil’ cache hides vs. kid friendly, cliff hangers vs. wheel chair accessible; some caches are hidden from muggles while others are hidden from cachers.”

Above all else, we are all aware of the Groundspeak guidelines about cache placement: (http://www.geocaching.com/about/guidelines.aspx)

 

1. All local laws apply.

2. Obtain the landowner's and/or land manager's permission before you hide any geocache, whether placed on private or public property.

3. Geocaches are never buried.

4. Geocache placements do not deface or destroy public or private property.

5. Geocaches are not placed on school property or military bases.

6. Physical elements of different geocaches should generally be at least 0.10 miles apart.