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I use NiMh batteries, but make sure you get the high power ones (>2500mA/h). They seem to last for ages in my Colorado which is similar to your Oregon for usage I would guess.

 

I've 2 sets so I just swap them aground.

 

Keeping the backlight to lowest will save you some power, as will keeping your map North up. There is a list here :)

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I use NiMh batteries, but make sure you get the high power ones (>2500mA/h). They seem to last for ages in my Colorado which is similar to your Oregon for usage I would guess.

 

I've 2 sets so I just swap them aground.

 

Keeping the backlight to lowest will save you some power, as will keeping your map North up. There is a list here :)

 

Interesting, all of the suggestions are to turn of all of the features that distinguish it from a basis eTrex. :)

 

My suggestion is to get the "New Generation" NiMh batteries, the Sanyo Eneloop, or Sony Cycle Energy. The higher the the ma/h rating the better. These batteries seem to hold their own against alkalines, and they do not discharge when sitting idle. I had a set of Cycle Energy Batteries sit in my digital camera for thirteen months before having to be recharged. I took about 600 photos in that time.

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I have a Garmin Oregon 300 but its batteries drain fast. My backlight is on the lowest settings. Is there a recommended battery brand. Thanks

 

Stick with the hybrid NiMh batteries, my favorites are the Sanyo Eneloops. They aren't the so called high power ones, they are only 2000 MAH batteries but I get 18 to 20 hours running time with my 76CSx. The nice thing about hybrids is their shelf life. They will hold 80% of their charge laying on a shelf for six months.

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I have a Garmin Oregon 300 but its batteries drain fast. My backlight is on the lowest settings. Is there a recommended battery brand. Thanks

 

Stick with the hybrid NiMh batteries, my favorites are the Sanyo Eneloops. They aren't the so called high power ones, they are only 2000 MAH batteries but I get 18 to 20 hours running time with my 76CSx. The nice thing about hybrids is their shelf life. They will hold 80% of their charge laying on a shelf for six months.

 

I simply went for the Cycle Energy batteries because of the price in my local store, and I have not been disappointed.

 

I have been trying to use rechargeable batteries for the last two decades, (police scanner buff), and have never had any luck, until these hybrid batteries hit the scene.

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Make sure you don't keep update-intensive screens open for a longer time when you don't need them, i.e. the map screen or the compass screen, as those consume quite a bit of power. Switch to the main screen when you're not looking at the GPS. The exception is the map screen with the "battery save" (screen blanking) option enabled.

 

As opposed to what you may read, disabling WAAS or the electronic compass has no influence on battery life at all. Also does the compass screen not use any less power than the map screen.

Edited by dfx
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The Maha Powerex MH-C9000 is another good smart charger. I've used the Maha Powerex 2700 mAh batteries with good success, although I've had a couple fail after about 2 years.

 

One thing about using a smart charger is that it will test for battery health. I've had a couple batteries that have actually failed but still produced voltage. If I had been using a regular charger, I wouldn't have known and would have continued to use a poorly performing battery.

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I read an article in consumer reports last year where they compared a bunch of batteries in electronics. Energizer Lithium blew everyone away. You will pay more for them then most batteries but they last a whole lot longer.

 

In my experiences, the Energizer Ultimate Lithiums do give better life than any other battery that I've ever used. But on a cost basis, it's just not viable for me, or most people that I know. The rechargeables are so much more economical based on the fact that they can be reused over and over again with adequate life.

 

In my battery pack, I always keep two extra sets of fully charged rechargeables, and two sets of new Ultimate Lithiums.

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The LaCrosse BC-9009 comes with 2600 mAH batteries. They're decent batteries, though not of the low self discharge type. They're good if you use them within a week of being recharged. I use them, and have a few sets of Eneloop NiMH with me as well.

 

There's the new Imedion 2400 mAH LSD NiMH. I've read some claims that they have only about 10% more capacity than the Eneloop.

 

I used to carry disposable lithiums as backup, but I don't use them, so now only carry a set of alkaline batteries.

 

It's fairly easy to do your own cost analysis to see when you'll make back the extra you spent on rechargeable batteries in savings.

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I use the cheapest disposable alkalines I can find. Typically I can find packs of 48 for about $12-15. I can't be bothered with a charger and keeping track of which batteries are charged and which are not. If I am going for a 6 day back packing trek (which I do at least 2-3 times per year) I can't gamble that the 3 or 4 sets of NiMh batteries I happen to have will be enough. I have other things that run on AA batteries (like headlamp, water purifier, camera flash, etc.) so it just makes sense to take 10-12 AA batteries and know that I won't have a problem on day 5. The extra weight of 4-6 AA batteries is something I can accept, knowing that I will have power when I need it for these devices.

 

Cost-wise the Lithiums make absolutely no sense at all and have to be disposed of carefully. One set of Energizer Ultimate Lithiums will typically cost $10-12. I tested some out in my 62s and found that they maybe gave me 4 hours more life than the dirt cheap alkalines, and that is being generous.

 

When it comes to choosing alkalines, they are all the same regardless of brand. There used to be a website called "www.batterytruth.info" that did a very controlled comparison of multiple brands of alkaline batteries and it demonstrated that the differences between the different brands, including the cheapy no-name brands, was almost negligible in most cases. I believe that it also concluded that one of the top performers was a brand that most of us have never heard of.

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I was going to slam the poster who couldn't be bothered to charge batteries but I will refrain restrain myself.<_<

 

I am thrilled with Sanyo Eneloops and I use the LaCrosse Charger in my Oregon.

I throw two sets on the charger before bed and in the morning they are ready. They stay charged for a long time unlike other types of rechargeable's I have used.

It's really easy, just as easy as not disposing of trash on the ground or as easy as taking a shopping cart back to the corral at the grocery.

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Also, Costco carries them. But you might not want such a large package.

 

I believe I got my last ones at Thomson.

 

Another store that does is BJ's (Walmarts version of Costco.) They have giant 48/64 packs of most battery brands. They are also a good place to go to get good deals on Lock n Lock containers.

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Our main set of batteries is Duracell NiMH, non-LSD at 2450 mAh. I'm still amazed at how well they're holding up, used them for over 6 hours straight yesterday, with the map screen on almost all the time (and no screen blanking, which draws a lot of power) and still had 4 bars left at the end of the day. They weren't even freshly charged up.

Edited by dfx
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First, battery type: NiMH. Whether ULSD/Hybrid/Pre-Charged or not depends on your usage patterns. Non-ULSD have much higher capacities but self-discharge rapidly - good if you routinely use the GPS for long periods of time right after charging the batteries. ULSDs have lower capacities but hold their charge for a long time, good if you sometimes don't use the GPS for a few days after charging the batteries. I've used a variety of ULSDs with good results - Kodaks, Duracell Pre-Charged, etc. Always buy batteries that advertise their capacity - some NiMHs have shown up on the market without published capacity and they are down in the 1400-1600 mAh range!!! (This is even from the "name brands" - actually especially from them in the brick and mortar stores. Even low-capacity ULSDs have started showing up - previously if you bought ULSD you were pretty much guaranteed 2000-2100 mAh capacity...)

 

Second, battery charger: You MUST get a charger with independent charging channels per cell to get the most out of your cells. The two most popular of these have already been mentioned, LaCrosse BC-700 and MaHa MH-C9000. I have a C9000 and it's great.

 

Alkalines do horribly in high-discharge devices such as GPS receivers.

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@hallycat, I had a feeling my post about alkalines would evoke that type of response. I consider myself an environmentalist, but I am also a pragmatist, so please forgive me if I feel a bit of a need to defend myself a bit here. I think that maybe I should elaborate a little bit on my choice of alkalines, because it is not one that I took lightly or without consideration of many factors.

 

I am a photographer and regularly carry 3 portable speedlite flashes that each require 4 AA cells. For backpacking, I have a GPS, headlamp, water purifier and SPOT communicator that all require AA cells. For all of these devices, whether I am depending on them for photographic pursuits, or as pieces of my outdoor survival tool kit, I carry fresh batteries in each device at the outset of any endeavour, and a complete set of back up as well. This means that if I was going out with all of this gear at the same time (not a frequent occurence, but could happen), I would need a minimum of 40 AA cells. In reality when it comes to the portable flashes, if I am going on a full day photoshoot that I anticipate heavy flash usage, I need 3 sets per flash, upping that number to 52 cells. Admittedly, there aren't many occasions that will require all devices to be available at one time, with back-ups, but still, I would need to have in my inventory enough batteries for the possibility. This does not take into account the dozens of household devices that also require AA cells.

 

Now assuming that I don't at this point feel the need to hire an assistant to manage my battery collection and ensure that I have charged batteries when I need them, I would also need to invest in at least 2-3 chargers of the more advanced variety. I would probably also want a car charger for emergencies. The investment quickly gets up to around $300 to get started with NiMH. If it were just the economics, I would probably consider it, but it really boils down to the logistics of keeping track of which batteries are charged and which are dead. Complicating that whole idea is the fact that I live with a 1, 6 and 9 year olds that do a lot of the battery management around the house as it is, and even without the rechargeable factor the challenge is daunting enough.

 

Regarding the comment that alkalines are terrible in high-drain devices like GPS receivers, I haven't taken the opportunity to test alkaline vs. NiMH myself yet, but I did do a rather unscientific test of Lithium vs. Alkaline and found that the increase in run-time with the top-shelf Lithiums was about 3 hrs more (20 hrs vs. 17) in my 62s. The bulk of the information I have come across overwhelmingly reports that Lithiums out-perform NiMH, but that cost is the main strike against Lithium. So I would assume that in my 62s, NiMH cells will out-perform the alkalines, but fall short of the Lithiums. So if I give NiMH a very generous benefit of doubt, we might say they will give me 19 hours vs. the alkaline's 17 hrs. An improvement of about 11%. I would hardly call that "terrible" when talking in comparative terms.

 

Sorry if I have turned this into a thread about alkaline vs. NiMH when the original poster was asking what brand of battery to use, but I just thought that when considering battery choice, alkalines shouldn't be discounted all together. The environmental impact of the NiMH option should also be considered too. I realize that they will have an overall lesser impact vs. alkaline, but it shouldn't be assumed that they get a free pass as far as the environment is concerned. If the alkalines are recycled, then we are really talking about a more marginal difference in impact to the environment between the two. When that is weighed against cost and more importantly, practicality factors, the choice becomes a little less obvious (at least for some of us).

 

P.S. In my original post I did use the term "disposable" which does prick my conscience somewhat and so I have resolved to recycle my alkalines more faithfully from now on.

 

P.S.S. I put my shopping carts away when I am done with them too. ;)

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I am a photographer and regularly carry 3 portable speedlite flashes that each require 4 AA cells.

Have you tried NiMH batteries in your speedlites? You might be pleasantly surprised to find that they last longer and recharge a lot faster with NiMH. The reason for that is that NiMH has much lower internal resistance, enabling higher current draws.

 

Now assuming that I don't at this point feel the need to hire an assistant to manage my battery collection and ensure that I have charged batteries when I need them, I would also need to invest in at least 2-3 chargers of the more advanced variety.

MH-C801D 8 cell charger, about $65 (I didn't really check, so I might be off a bit).

 

If it were just the economics, I would probably consider it, but it really boils down to the logistics of keeping track of which batteries are charged and which are dead. Complicating that whole idea is the fact that I live with a 1, 6 and 9 year olds that do a lot of the battery management around the house as it is, and even without the rechargeable factor the challenge is daunting enough.

Surely it is no more complicated than trying to figure out how much power is left in the alkaline calls you have left in the speedlite?

 

Regarding the comment that alkalines are terrible in high-drain devices like GPS receivers

Actually, GPS receivers are not high drain devices. Digital cameras (those that still take AA batteries) and speedlites are.

 

I'd be happy to loan you a set to do some testing if you live nearby.

Edited by Chrysalides
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@Chrysalides, I am aware of the performance benefits of NiMH batteries in speedlites. Speedlite battery choice wasn't the topic of discussion though. But since you raise the question, for me it still boils down to the fact that I value the convenience of alkalines over the marginal performance advantages of NiMH.

 

MH-C801D 8 cell charger, about $65 (I didn't really check, so I might be off a bit).

So if I am managing an inventory of 60 odd NiMH batteries, and on one photoshoot I deplete 30ish and have to go out again the next day, I can get by with one 8 cell charger? I'm sure I could, but again, I value convenience pretty highly and so I think I would want to have a couple on hand. So correct my math if I am off, but 60 odd eneloops will run in the neighbourhood of $150. 2 chargers at $65 each takes it to $280. And again, because I am looking for maximum convenience, I will probably want a car charger for those "in-a-pinch" situations. I don't know how much they are but I'm guessing it will push that $280 over the $300 mark.

 

Surely it is no more complicated than trying to figure out how much power is left in the alkaline calls you have left in the speedlite?

Actually, it is more complicated than figuring out how much life is left in my cheap alkalines, because if I am ever in doubt about how much life I have left and know that I am going to need to pop off 60 shots in the next 20 mins, I just pop in some fresh ones and recycle (of course) the ones I am unsure of.

 

Actually, GPS receivers are not high drain devices. Digital cameras (those that still take AA batteries) and speedlites are.

I didn't make the claim that GPS units are high drain devices. That was made by another poster. I was making the point that in my personal experience, testing both alkaline and lithium in my 62s, the performance difference between the two is marginal at best and the margin between alkaline and NiMH, by extension, would be slimmer yet.

 

Thanks for the offer to loan me some NiMH, but to be clear, I don't need to be convinced of the marginal performance advantages or even the somewhat arguable environmental and economic benefits of NiMH. My decision is based on practical considerations and matters of logistics and convenience. Others will base their decisions on other factors, that just happens to be what I base mine on.

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And again, because I am looking for maximum convenience, I will probably want a car charger for those "in-a-pinch" situations. I don't know how much they are but I'm guessing it will push that $280 over the $300 mark.

 

I don't need to be convinced of the marginal performance advantages or even the somewhat arguable environmental and economic benefits of NiMH.

What I'd like to show you is that in the speedlites, the performance advantages is far from marginal. You'll need fewer batteries, for one thing. For emergencies, you can always fall back on alkalines.

 

But I'm not not trying to convince you by discussion here. If you're comfortable with what you're using, there's no reason to change. Your use of the batteries is not going to be what tips us into environmental disaster :) Good luck and have fun.

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What is the capacity of the enloops everyone is buying? I'm only seeing 2000.

For low self discharge batteries : The Eneloops available in the U.S. are only 2000 mAH. The others advertise themselves as 2000 mAH and 2100 mAH, except for the new higher capacity Imedions which claim to be 2400 mAH.

 

There's supposed to be 2400 mAH Eneloops available in Europe, according to something I read a few months ago.

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Another store that does is BJ's (Walmarts version of Costco.)

I think that would be Sam's Club (and they don't have the Eneloops there). Sam's (the WalMart big box store), BJ's and Costco are all competitors.

 

The most expensive place to buy them locally seems to be REI (at $17 per 4 pack). Ironic, since that's where I got my Oregon 450 for $250 on sale.

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What is the capacity of the enloops everyone is buying? I'm only seeing 2000.

For low self discharge batteries : The Eneloops available in the U.S. are only 2000 mAH. The others advertise themselves as 2000 mAH and 2100 mAH, except for the new higher capacity Imedions which claim to be 2400 mAH.

 

There's supposed to be 2400 mAH Eneloops available in Europe, according to something I read a few months ago.

 

I have two sets of Sony Cycle Energy batteries that are rated at 2500mAh.

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I have two sets of Sony Cycle Energy batteries that are rated at 2500mAh.

The 2500 mAH Cycle Energy do not appear to be low self discharge batteries though. Or are they?

 

I googled for the new Eneloops. They're supposed to be 2500 mAH, not 2400 mAH as I stated earlier. Someone's selling them on Amazon - for almost $25 for a set of 4. Ouch.

 

There's also Yuasa Enitime PLUS on Amazon - 2500 mAH LSD, about $15.50. I think I'll pass for now. Maybe I'll get the Imedion 2400 mAH if I need filler for free shipping next time I buy something on Amazon.

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I have two sets of Sony Cycle Energy batteries that are rated at 2500mAh.

The 2500 mAH Cycle Energy do not appear to be low self discharge batteries though. Or are they?

 

 

Gee, I thought that they were. Googling around, now I'm not quite sure. I haven't really had to store them long enough to tell if they have discharged.

 

Unfortunately, the package descriptions on all of the brands of rechargeables are lacking and seem to written for novices. It becomes difficult for those that understand and know what they want to buy, to actually find it. I assumed the brand "Cycle Energy" meant that it is LSD battery. I may have been naive in that assumption.

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Gee, I thought that they were. Googling around, now I'm not quite sure. I haven't really had to store them long enough to tell if they have discharged.

 

Unfortunately, the package descriptions on all of the brands of rechargeables are lacking and seem to written for novices. It becomes difficult for those that understand and know what they want to buy, to actually find it. I assumed the brand "Cycle Energy" meant that it is LSD battery. I may have been naive in that assumption.

Sony... hasn't been the company they once was. I find that with some products, they can be somewhat misleading.

 

If it is a low self discharge, it would usually say so on the cover, or say they're precharged. I don't know of any reason why not to advertise the fact, since they can command a higher price.

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These batteries seem to hold their own against alkalines, and they do not discharge when sitting idle.

 

That is simply not true. They DO self-discharge...just not as fast as "regular" rechargeables. I use a "smart" charger and my previously fully charged Eneloops take around 300-400mAH(15-20% total capacity) to top off after sitting for a couple of months in a baggie, i.e. NOT in a device. They discharge MUCH faster than their claimed discharge rate. I have 16 AA Eneloops and they all do this, so it's not a case of getting a "bad battery".

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Is there much difference with these 2 chargers. Seems to be something as there is a $14.00 difference between the two of them. Seems everyone lkike them both, but dont know if one offers something the other one doesn't Going to pull the trigger on a charger and some eneloops hopefully today.

 

La Crosse Technology BC-9009 AlphaPower Battery Charger

Maha Powerex Wizard One MH-C9000 Advanced Battery Charger and Analyzer

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BC9009 comes with batteries. The AAs are 2600 mAH and decent but not low self discharge. I use them when they're freshly charged (or less than a week from being recharged). It also come with some other stuff - a bag, C and D battery adapters, 4 AAA batteries.

 

The other difference between the 2 is that the BC9009 has more charging rates. Specifically, the fastest charging mode on the BC9009 is 1000 mA for 4 batteries, or 1800 mA for 2 batteries. The highest for the BC700 is 700 mA.

 

Time to charge (hours) = battery capacity (in mAH) / charging mode (in mA)

 

I've always thought that a slow, gentle charging is best, but some seem to think a fast charge (between 0.5 and 1C, where C is the capacity of your battery) - meaning taking between 1 to 2 hours to charge a completely drained battery to full, is better for the batteries. I admit to ignorance on the science behind this.

 

The LaCrosse units default to charging batteries at 200 mA. For the Eneloops, this is 0.1C - 10 hours for a full charge from completely empty. The Maha defaults to charging at 1000 mA I believe.

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The only thing about the 9009 is it not detecting very highly discharged batteries. I don't know if other chargers do this or not, or if it's just a La Crosse thing. I hadn't used the two included 2600mAh batteries in quite a while and the charger wouldn't detect them and just kept displaying "NULL" in the window. I know there's a way to "jump start" a really dead battery with a paper clip by shorting some terminals on the charger, but I forgot how and it doesn't sound "kind" to the charger, either. I just need to get a wall/plug-in dumb charger. I had one that came with my first set of Eneloops, but I trashed it a long time ago. I had the bright idea (it worked! :laughing: ) of throwing them into one of our decorative solar lantern thingies that light up at night. The hood part of the lantern takes two rechargeable AA batteries. Just have to put a trickle of charge into it to "wake it up" so the charger will see it.

 

As for the "C" charge rate, I keep it at 10-20% of the rated capacity, so 200-400mAH for the 2000mAh Eneloops. These are not rated for high discharge/charge rates. I do not treat these like I do my RC lithium-polymer batteries that are rated as high as 5C and can safely take a high charge rate because they're designed for it.

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