Best glue for Lock 'n' Lock boxes?

[+The VanDucks]

I have a few lock 'n' lock boxes placed as geocache containers, and I used Gorilla Glue to fasten some small plastic animals to the lids. I'm not sure how long the glue will hold; I've already had to make a few repairs. Has anyone had success in gluing plastic and wood to Lock 'n' Locks? The label on the boxes doesn't specify what type of plastic they are made of. We have both very hot humid weather, and some snow and icy conditions here in Virginia at different seasons, so I'm looking for a glue that can hold up in all sorts of weather.

[+Lovejoy and Tinker]

I've started using sticky pads instead of glue for a lot of things.

 

There are some called "No Nails" (the outdoor use ones) which work great because they allow a little bit of flexibility between the items being stuck together, even when set. So if it gets knocked there is a bit of play and the shock does not break the bond - it's not brittle.

 

You can cut the pads into smaller sizes or use more than one to cover the whole contact area.

 

Can't guarantee they'll work for your application, but everything I have used them with is still stuck fast including a lot of applications in our shops which do get a bit of knocking about.

[knowschad]

I think they are made from polyethelene or something very similar, and I don't think you're going to have much success gluing it.

 

While I can't vouch for their authority, I found what appears to be an authoritative answer to a similar question in a RC Plane group:

 

The fact is that the group of olefins (polyethylene based plastics), which include LDPE, HDPE, and UHMW, are so chemical resistant that modern science has not invented a solvent glue to bond these plastics. Of course, such properties are why these plastics exist and perform their job so well. You might even note that the solvent applicators and most chemical containers are made from polyethylenes.

[knowschad]

I wince at posting anything from sites like wikiAnswers, but this one matches up with some other stuff I found while Googling around. I don't think you'll like what you are about to read, though.

[+Team_FussyPants]

I've had fairly good luck with construction adhesive. You can buy it in a large tube at your local hardware store, and you'll also need a caulking gun to use it as well. The secret to gluing plastic, as with gluing anything, is the prep work. Wash the plastic really good to get oils off from the mold release, then use a rough sandpaprer to scratch up the surface. This creates more surface area a d ridges for the glue to bond to, so the rougher/deeper the better. And give the construction adhesive a good 24 hours to dry. I've glued 2l soda bottles together with it and tested them to 100psi.

 

If you're really serious you can go to your local auto body supply house and pick up some 3M panel bond glue. It's used to fuse together plastic and composite structural and body pieces that are on most new cars. The stuff dries in 5 minutes a d will survive a nuclear blast, but be prepared to drop 50-60 bucks for the glue and special gun/tips required. Mcmaster-Carr sells it as well

Edited September 24, 2010 by altered7151

[Clan Riffster]

...so I'm looking for a glue that can hold up in all sorts of weather.

Do you mind getting messy?

I've been using Liquid Nails Roof Repair, which comes in a caulking tube at Wally World. I haven't found anything it won't adhere to. It maintains a degree of flexibility after setting, which makes it ideal for plastics. I initially apply it with a caulk gun, then smooth it out like peanut butter using a plastic knife. You'll want to do this outdoors, 'cuz it really smells, and you'll want to wear old clothes and rubber gloves, as it will stain everything it gets near. Once I apply a layer of the stuff, I take a handfull of ground moss and squish it into the adhesive.

[+Curioddity]

Goop works fairly well. Marine Goop is the same stuff but with UV stabilizers in it.

 

 

I believe that Lock 'n' Locks and most of those Tupperware-like containers are molded Polypropylene. I'm a model aviator and plane builder and a regular contributor in several of the RC forums knowschad mentioned and EPP (Expanded Polypropylene) is one of the building materials we use. Not much will stick to the stuff, even in a foam state, but Goop works both as an adhesive and a coating.

 

E-6000 and UV-6800 are the same thing and seem to work just as well, but they're Perc (Perchloroethylene) based instead of Toluene based:

 

 

Pete

Edited September 26, 2010 by Curioddity

[+chachi44089]

I second the Goop glue stuff...I fixed a leaking crack in the bottom of a Dreammaker hot tub with that stuff, after trying every glue and epoxy at the store. The tub was made of polyethyline and noting would stick to it. Except Goop! Still leak free after a month of constant use and 104 degree temps.

[+The VanDucks]

Thanks for all the useful information! I'll try some of those suggestions!