Making caches

[+GOBLUEGIRL]

Hi everyone;

 

I'm interested in doing my first caches. I have a few lock and lock containers (well, they were my mom's until I pilfered them ), and some smaller containers such as film canisters.

 

I have everything I need for these, but I'm not sure how to camo them.

 

Can anyone tell me the best way to do this? I've tried camo hockey tape, duct tape, etc. I tried painting a lock n lock, but the stone-look exterior paint I had never dried, after 8 hours and with primer. I used the Valspar line of paints, but maybe I should use the Fusion for plastics from Krylon.

 

From what I can find on the 'net, it sounds as tho I need to lightly sand the plastic, clean it, prime it, spray with paint technique and then seal it. Is this how most of you do yours?

 

Any help would be awesome!

 

Thanks!

 

GoBlueGirl

[+BlueDeuce]

I've been using camo duct tape. It's been holding up pretty well so far.

[+Fianccetto]

I got the cheapest pair of mens (XXXL - same price as regular) camo trousers I could find and cut them up to make bags. Chose ones with elastic pull cords and closure buttons on the legs and waist so the bags have those on them without me having to do much. On one I sewed a clear bag inside as a lining, to help keep water out.

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

Krylon™ spray paint is made specifically for plastics. They also have four "no shine" colors for camouflage painting. We have found it very good on Lock & Locks. These "no shine" paints are heads and shoulders above "flat" paints, as they let no glare of the plastic come through, sanding is not required (cleaning well before painting is ALWAYS preferred -- either new or used containers).

 

Making the container into actual camouflage pattern isn't really necessary. Getting rid of all of the plastic glare is the key! Make sure that every square mm of the plastic is painted (do not get paint on the silicone seal ring if they are truly L&L's)

 

Again, as it is the most important issue, eliminate all glare or glisten from the container.

 

EDIT: Camo duct tape can also be good, but we have never (yet) found a suitable brand. Most of the tape surface still has a glare shine to it. Much of what we have found fails to adhere well. Perhaps because most or what we find are cheap copies of good stuff, we seem to have no local outlet that handles truly camouflage duct tape.

Edited March 21, 2010 by Gitchee-Gummee

[GermanSailor]

Any help would be awesome!

Sand the plastic, so the surface isn't smooth any more. Than just paint it with the cheap Walmart spray cans.

 

Or you apply a very thin coating of silicone, this stuff is really sticky. Glue dirt, leaves, grass and whatever is surrounding the box, to it. This is the most natural looking camo you can achieve.

 

Don't forget: There are no straight lines in nature, so make sure so spray you camo pattern freehand.

 

All this priming and sealing is not really necessary. It's a geocache not a Porsche! ;-)

 

GermanSailor

[+Knight2000]

Kind of already mentioned...

 

I have done it two ways and both have worked out. Sand it with whatever you have although the courser the better. Sandpaper has grades which are indicated by numbers. The lower the number the coarser it will be. After sanding I have just sprayed with whatever cheap spray paint I have found at Walmart. ($1 can) Try to buy flat (that is the sheen- avoid gloss). I usually buy primer grey, flat black, green, primer red and some sort of tan. Just mist it haphazardly. Do it a few times.

 

It may scrape off a little over time but it seems that it will last a couple years. By then I would hope that you would have done maintenance when you could swap it out if need be. It will still look good after a couple years but if your anal like me then you might want to touch it up. You can always take the paint to the cache site too.

 

Another way which probably will work better is to buy camo cloth. Walmart has it for like $3 a yard. A yard will do several caches. They have different patterns of camo too. You can do as previously mentioned, make a bag or just glue the cloth to the container. For the lid I have made fringes so the edges overhang the rest of the container. I like the idea of gluing the cloth to the container.

 

Unless it is the expensive camo tape I don't like that stuff. If you do try that make sure you get tape that isn't shiny. Cloth tape would be best but it's more money.

[+kunarion]

Can anyone tell me the best way to do this? I've tried camo hockey tape, duct tape, etc. I tried painting a lock n lock, but the stone-look exterior paint I had never dried, after 8 hours and with primer. I used the Valspar line of paints, but maybe I should use the Fusion for plastics from Krylon.

Before painting a plastic box, you need to prepare the plastic by roughing up the surface, as mentioned. Sand & scratch it as roughly as you dare -- also great for gluing things to the box. Give stone paint (or other thick paint) a couple of weeks to dry in a warm, ventilated area. I've found some non-shiny cloth camo tape, but usually glue it down, and often end up painting over it.

 

Do a search on the net or here in the forums for camouflage example photos. In a natural setting, a container will blend well with two or three wide strokes of colors that match the surroundings. But you can make it more interesting by hand-painting it or using stencils. You might add fake leaves, beads, or other objects to the outside of the box. Be as creative as you like.

 

I hope this helps!

Edited March 21, 2010 by kunarion

[+hukilaulau]

Krylon™ spray paint is made specifically for plastics. They also have four "no shine" colors for camouflage painting. We have found it very good on Lock & Locks.

This is what I use now. I used to do camo duct tape but this is much quicker and easier. Sanding isn't really necessary. Neither is artistic perfection. Just do a light coat with one color and then a few random swipes with one or two other colors. Camo is mostly about breaking up patterns.

[+BlueDeuce]

I never thought it was all that shiny. Even in a flash photo.

 

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

I never thought it was all that shiny. Even in a flash photo.

 

 

I see glare -- from the flash.

Now, if it were sunlight from a different direction, or just skylight -- I think it would glare. There are camo duct tapes out there that have no shine, just none carried by retailers around here. It seems most retailers here do not have a clue as to what "camouflage" really is. It isn't color or pattern, it is eliminating all glare or shine!

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

Side-by-side, Krylon v camo tape (direct flash). Just for comparison.

 

[+briansnat]

If you can find the Valspar American Traditions plastic primer it's the best one I've used so far. You can then use any paint you want over it.

 

Also the last few cans of Krylon camo paint I purchased said they had "Fusion" technology, which adheres to plastics. I've overall had better luck with the Valspar plastic primer and whatever paint over it, than I have had with Fusion paint. The latter seems to flake sometimes.

 

Before applying the primer or paint, rough up the surface of the container a bit. I use a new Scotch Brite (no grease in it) and some Comet or other abrasive cleaner to remove the sheen and give the paint something to adhere to. It's worked great for me.

 

Here are two containers painted in this manner. The one on the right had just spent nearly 2 years in the wild hidden among rocks, in summer heat and bitter winter cold and it held up nicely. In fact it is back out there as another cache.

 

Edited March 21, 2010 by briansnat

[+popokiiti]

When spray painting Lock & Locks, Popoki Nui uses different colours - black, brown, green, khaki, gray and uses branches or leaves as a stencil. She always sands them first. I have to say they look pretty good and blend in well. They do have a flat appearance when dry, and blend in very well. We bought spray paints for plastic - some do not require the item to be sanded first, but we do anyway. One important thing - make sure you have plenty of fresh air if spray painting.

[+Dibley68]

Hi everyone;

 

I'm interested in doing my first caches. I have a few lock and lock containers (well, they were my mom's until I pilfered them ), and some smaller containers such as film canisters.

 

I have everything I need for these, but I'm not sure how to camo them.

 

Can anyone tell me the best way to do this? I've tried camo hockey tape, duct tape, etc. I tried painting a lock n lock, but the stone-look exterior paint I had never dried, after 8 hours and with primer. I used the Valspar line of paints, but maybe I should use the Fusion for plastics from Krylon.

 

From what I can find on the 'net, it sounds as tho I need to lightly sand the plastic, clean it, prime it, spray with paint technique and then seal it. Is this how most of you do yours?

 

Any help would be awesome!

 

Thanks!

 

GoBlueGirl

 

The camo I've been using works best up here in the National Forest. Basically, for LockNLocks I had to experiment but found that a flat primer and flat brown paint with flat black speckled paint touch works best.

 

Then again, I also make caches out of 2 inch PVC Pipe so camoflage tape works best. For something with a lot of profile like a LockNLock you may want to be creative in your painting. It's hard to curve and control camotape around the edges and sides.

 

Another method I've used is to spray your container with 3M Spray Adhesive and crush and mash some authentic leaves, dirt, grass onto it. I then seal that on there with some satin spray Polyurethane and reduce the glare by lightly dusting it with sand or some fine powder.

 

Be creative. Experimentation is not another word for failure!

 

Good luck!

Edited March 21, 2010 by Dibley68

[+ipodguy]

I painted a couple of ammo cans last week. It's pretty easy. Sand every surface you can so the paint sticks. I don't typically use a primer when I spray anything (unless it's rusty). I go for the textured spraypaints, too. Have a look at the general area you want to hide a cache and note the colors, bring some samples like a chunk of moss or some leaves and see what you can match up at the paint store.

 

I've also noticed Krylon Fusion to be superior for painting plastic - just make sure you sand well.

 

A lot of caches in my area are Lock n Locks with camo tape, but I've found that the tape can get soggy and degrade after awhile or peel off.

 

If you're going to spray, try it on a piece of scrap first to get your camo painting practice.

Edited March 21, 2010 by ipodguy

[+Dibley68]

Hi everyone;

 

I'm interested in doing my first caches. I have a few lock and lock containers (well, they were my mom's until I pilfered them ), and some smaller containers such as film canisters.

 

I have everything I need for these, but I'm not sure how to camo them.

 

Can anyone tell me the best way to do this? I've tried camo hockey tape, duct tape, etc. I tried painting a lock n lock, but the stone-look exterior paint I had never dried, after 8 hours and with primer. I used the Valspar line of paints, but maybe I should use the Fusion for plastics from Krylon.

 

From what I can find on the 'net, it sounds as tho I need to lightly sand the plastic, clean it, prime it, spray with paint technique and then seal it. Is this how most of you do yours?

 

Any help would be awesome!

 

Thanks!

 

GoBlueGirl

 

Heads up! I went to Academy Sports and found 2 Paintball Fastloaders for about 4 bucks. (2 to a package). The lids have a spring on them so they pop open and you have to snap them shut. Tried both painting with flat brown paint and applying camo tape. Both methods work.

 

Good luck! Cheers!

[+GOBLUEGIRL]

I've been using camo duct tape. It's been holding up pretty well so far.

 

I looked for that at a few places, but couldn't find any. The closest I could get was camo hockey tape, but it feel like cotton on one side.

Edited March 22, 2010 by GOBLUEGIRL

[+GOBLUEGIRL]

Krylon™ spray paint is made specifically for plastics. They also have four "no shine" colors for camouflage painting. We have found it very good on Lock & Locks. These "no shine" paints are heads and shoulders above "flat" paints, as they let no glare of the plastic come through, sanding is not required (cleaning well before painting is ALWAYS preferred -- either new or used containers).

 

Making the container into actual camouflage pattern isn't really necessary. Getting rid of all of the plastic glare is the key! Make sure that every square mm of the plastic is painted (do not get paint on the silicone seal ring if they are truly L&L's)

 

Again, as it is the most important issue, eliminate all glare or glisten from the container.

 

EDIT: Camo duct tape can also be good, but we have never (yet) found a suitable brand. Most of the tape surface still has a glare shine to it. Much of what we have found fails to adhere well. Perhaps because most or what we find are cheap copies of good stuff, we seem to have no local outlet that handles truly camouflage duct tape.

 

Thanks for the tips on the Krylon & glistening from the container!

[+GOBLUEGIRL]

Any help would be awesome!

Sand the plastic, so the surface isn't smooth any more. Than just paint it with the cheap Walmart spray cans.

 

Or you apply a very thin coating of silicone, this stuff is really sticky. Glue dirt, leaves, grass and whatever is surrounding the box, to it. This is the most natural looking camo you can achieve.

 

Don't forget: There are no straight lines in nature, so make sure so spray you camo pattern freehand.

 

All this priming and sealing is not really necessary. It's a geocache not a Porsche! ;-)

 

GermanSailor

 

I love the idea of the silicone and gluing branches, leaves, etc to it! Thanks!

I'm going to have a whole variety to make!

[+GOBLUEGIRL]

Kind of already mentioned...

 

I have done it two ways and both have worked out. Sand it with whatever you have although the courser the better. Sandpaper has grades which are indicated by numbers. The lower the number the coarser it will be. After sanding I have just sprayed with whatever cheap spray paint I have found at Walmart. ($1 can) Try to buy flat (that is the sheen- avoid gloss). I usually buy primer grey, flat black, green, primer red and some sort of tan. Just mist it haphazardly. Do it a few times.

 

It may scrape off a little over time but it seems that it will last a couple years. By then I would hope that you would have done maintenance when you could swap it out if need be. It will still look good after a couple years but if your anal like me then you might want to touch it up. You can always take the paint to the cache site too.

 

Another way which probably will work better is to buy camo cloth. Walmart has it for like $3 a yard. A yard will do several caches. They have different patterns of camo too. You can do as previously mentioned, make a bag or just glue the cloth to the container. For the lid I have made fringes so the edges overhang the rest of the container. I like the idea of gluing the cloth to the container.

 

Unless it is the expensive camo tape I don't like that stuff. If you do try that make sure you get tape that isn't shiny. Cloth tape would be best but it's more money.

 

Do you use a sealer as well?

[+GOBLUEGIRL]

Can anyone tell me the best way to do this? I've tried camo hockey tape, duct tape, etc. I tried painting a lock n lock, but the stone-look exterior paint I had never dried, after 8 hours and with primer. I used the Valspar line of paints, but maybe I should use the Fusion for plastics from Krylon.

Before painting a plastic box, you need to prepare the plastic by roughing up the surface, as mentioned. Sand & scratch it as roughly as you dare -- also great for gluing things to the box. Give stone paint (or other thick paint) a couple of weeks to dry in a warm, ventilated area. I've found some non-shiny cloth camo tape, but usually glue it down, and often end up painting over it.

 

Do a search on the net or here in the forums for camouflage example photos. In a natural setting, a container will blend well with two or three wide strokes of colors that match the surroundings. But you can make it more interesting by hand-painting it or using stencils. You might add fake leaves, beads, or other objects to the outside of the box. Be as creative as you like.

 

I hope this helps!

 

Lots of help, thank you!

[+GOBLUEGIRL]

If you can find the Valspar American Traditions plastic primer it's the best one I've used so far. You can then use any paint you want over it.

 

Also the last few cans of Krylon camo paint I purchased said they had "Fusion" technology, which adheres to plastics. I've overall had better luck with the Valspar plastic primer and whatever paint over it, than I have had with Fusion paint. The latter seems to flake sometimes.

 

Before applying the primer or paint, rough up the surface of the container a bit. I use a new Scotch Brite (no grease in it) and some Comet or other abrasive cleaner to remove the sheen and give the paint something to adhere to. It's worked great for me.

 

Here are two containers painted in this manner. The one on the right had just spent nearly 2 years in the wild hidden among rocks, in summer heat and bitter winter cold and it held up nicely. In fact it is back out there as another cache.

 

 

I like these! Did you get a stencil made?

[+GOBLUEGIRL]

Hi everyone;

 

I'm interested in doing my first caches. I have a few lock and lock containers (well, they were my mom's until I pilfered them ), and some smaller containers such as film canisters.

 

I have everything I need for these, but I'm not sure how to camo them.

 

Can anyone tell me the best way to do this? I've tried camo hockey tape, duct tape, etc. I tried painting a lock n lock, but the stone-look exterior paint I had never dried, after 8 hours and with primer. I used the Valspar line of paints, but maybe I should use the Fusion for plastics from Krylon.

 

From what I can find on the 'net, it sounds as tho I need to lightly sand the plastic, clean it, prime it, spray with paint technique and then seal it. Is this how most of you do yours?

 

Any help would be awesome!

 

Thanks!

 

GoBlueGirl

 

The camo I've been using works best up here in the National Forest. Basically, for LockNLocks I had to experiment but found that a flat primer and flat brown paint with flat black speckled paint touch works best.

 

Then again, I also make caches out of 2 inch PVC Pipe so camoflage tape works best. For something with a lot of profile like a LockNLock you may want to be creative in your painting. It's hard to curve and control camotape around the edges and sides.

 

Another method I've used is to spray your container with 3M Spray Adhesive and crush and mash some authentic leaves, dirt, grass onto it. I then seal that on there with some satin spray Polyurethane and reduce the glare by lightly dusting it with sand or some fine powder.

 

Be creative. Experimentation is not another word for failure!

 

Good luck!

 

The speckled paint in "Stone" was what I used and never dried. I really liked the look of it though - would have blended right in with stones in my area. I'll keep the PVC pipe in mind too! Great idea on the spray adhesive and leaves!!!!!

[+GOBLUEGIRL]

Thanks to all for your help! I have lots of creative fun to look forward to!

 

GoBlueGirl