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Cryptex Drawings for Geocaching Community


Soxter & Billini
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Quick question, when placing the 1" coupling inside of the 1 1/4" coupling I have a godd deal of play in it, I have not cut the slot in the 1" yet though. once I cut the slot will I be able to expand the inner ring a bit in order to eliminate the play between the two parts?

 

And BTW, thanks for such detailed plans, while building it and showing off the progress to some of my friends I think I may have enrolled some new cachers.

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Quick question, when placing the 1" coupling inside of the 1 1/4" coupling I have a godd deal of play in it, I have not cut the slot in the 1" yet though. once I cut the slot will I be able to expand the inner ring a bit in order to eliminate the play between the two parts?

 

And BTW, thanks for such detailed plans, while building it and showing off the progress to some of my friends I think I may have enrolled some new cachers.

 

I haven't built one of these, yet. I have found a few and examined their construction. What I have seen a couple people do is to use some sticky backed foam weather stripping.

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I recently finished one using Soxter's plans and listed it this week.

I used a table saw style tile cutter for the rings and a dremel tool for the slot etc.

Thanks for the great plans.

 

42d71cb3-7258-49ee-9f42-3ade365c05fe.jpg

How did you get the labeling on the rings?

They look like stickers.

If you look at the J & S on the fifth ring you can see the top of the S is overlapping the bottom of the J.

Edited by Vater_Araignee
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Has anyone looked into using a 3D printer for the difficult to machine parts?

 

I don't have personal experience with them, but I've read about ones like the makerbot or reprap. You may even be able to get access to one at a member based workshop like makerworks in Ann Arbor, MI

 

Just a thought. If someone developed the 3D models and shared them, others could "print" the parts on their own machines.

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Has anyone looked into using a 3D printer for the difficult to machine parts?

 

I don't have personal experience with them, but I've read about ones like the makerbot or reprap. You may even be able to get access to one at a member based workshop like makerworks in Ann Arbor, MI

 

Just a thought. If someone developed the 3D models and shared them, others could "print" the parts on their own machines.

OT question.

Is the makerbot a resin or powder printer?

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OT question.

Is the makerbot a resin or powder printer?

The makerbot (and all affordable 3D printers I've come across) are molten polymer deposit types. A plastic filament is heated up, molten, and extruded on a surface layer by layer.

 

I'm not sure if it is precise enough for highly detailed moving parts.

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OT question.

Is the makerbot a resin or powder printer?

The makerbot (and all affordable 3D printers I've come across) are molten polymer deposit types. A plastic filament is heated up, molten, and extruded on a surface layer by layer.

 

I'm not sure if it is precise enough for highly detailed moving parts.

It isn't.

The newer powder machines are great for making working prototypes.

Glad to know about Maker Works tho. Having access to CNC mill and lathe means aluminum cryptex.

The shears and TIG also means I can make the equivalent of ammo boxes.

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There is a design on thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4414

 

Has anyone looked into using a 3D printer for the difficult to machine parts?

 

I don't have personal experience with them, but I've read about ones like the makerbot or reprap. You may even be able to get access to one at a member based workshop like makerworks in Ann Arbor, MI

 

Just a thought. If someone developed the 3D models and shared them, others could "print" the parts on their own machines.

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I'm working on building one matching the drawings from the OP now. I've had trouble getting the rings right though, no matter how I cut them I can't seem to get them to the right size and cut perfectly square. I'm going to try stopping by a local machine shop and see what they would charge to cut the rings for me.

 

When buying the parts, I accidentally bought a piece of 3/4" cpvc, instead of sch 40pvc. Since I wanted to stick with exactly what the drawings listed for this first attempt, I went back and grabbed the right piece. I wonder though if using cpvc for the inner part of the lock would work, instead of using 3/4" pvc and sanding it down to fit in the 1"? The CPVC fits inside the pvc, with just a bit of a gap in between. I'm not sure if the gap would be too wide, so that it messes with the locking mechanism. I think once this cryptex is finished, I'll go back and re-make the inner portion of the lock, with the screws sticking up, and see if it works properly with the rest of this.

 

For those who have built larger versions of this cryptex, I expect it took some time to find all of the right size components for the larger version. Would you mind sharing the list of components you found worked together? I'd like to build one big enough for trackables and maybe small swag items.

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I wanted to build one of these ever since I saw a YouTube video. Tried making the cryptex but when I assembled it the dials wouldn't spin:( They spin fine when key is pulled out but when fully together they don't spin. Any suggestions?
Not without examining your cryptex to see what is binding or blocking the dials. I recommend that you examine it and experiment a bit to figure that out yourself.
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I wanted to build one of these ever since I saw a YouTube video. Tried making the cryptex but when I assembled it the dials wouldn't spin:( They spin fine when key is pulled out but when fully together they don't spin. Any suggestions?
Not without examining your cryptex to see what is binding or blocking the dials. I recommend that you examine it and experiment a bit to figure that out yourself.

 

I only mention what might seem obvious in that I ran into the same thing a couple of weeks back just before I did my final gluing (oh, how painful that would have been) -- Make sure you didn't slip one or more of your rings on backwards. I'd built and tested everything, but pulled off the rings to do some hand-painting. I was careful to number them so I could put them back on in the correct order, but I inverted every one of the rings when I did so. I only noticed when I tried to turn the rings with the key in. Off to repaint everything!

 

I hope yours is that simple.

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I wanted to build one of these ever since I saw a YouTube video. Tried making the cryptex but when I assembled it the dials wouldn't spin:( They spin fine when key is pulled out but when fully together they don't spin. Any suggestions?
Not without examining your cryptex to see what is binding or blocking the dials. I recommend that you examine it and experiment a bit to figure that out yourself.

 

I only mention what might seem obvious in that I ran into the same thing a couple of weeks back just before I did my final gluing (oh, how painful that would have been) -- Make sure you didn't slip one or more of your rings on backwards. I'd built and tested everything, but pulled off the rings to do some hand-painting. I was careful to number them so I could put them back on in the correct order, but I inverted every one of the rings when I did so. I only noticed when I tried to turn the rings with the key in. Off to repaint everything!

 

I hope yours is that simple.

 

It was a simple fix. I didn't measure correctly on my first build. Made the inner rings the same size as the outer rings so the dials could not turn. re-cut rings and works fine:)Now to build a few more so I can get it looking nice as well :)

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so the cryptex made accoring to plans require a lot of sanding and is very narrow i have improved cryptex building so you dont have to sand anywhere near as much

Buy a carlon e945g 1 1/4 in pvc expansion fitting. this is two tubes one fitting inside the other. you can use this to make the inner tube and outer tube of the container.

the unit is 1.971in wide so it fits inside a 2" schedule40pipe . so the rings are made of 1/4" pieces of 2" pipe to make the inner ring and a1/2" section of a 2" coupling. piece to make the outer ring. when all is fitted together the inner tube is 1 1/4" wide the cryptex assembled is 3" wide and 10 inches long. when i can figure out how to post pics. i will put some up

Edited by Kipk9
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Looks like it will end up as a micro...

 

Adapt into an ammo can (full-size container) and I'm sold!

 

see my recent posts on the improved cryptex it requires little sanding and fits perfect into ammo cans. final is 3"x 10.5 ". with a1 1/4 " internal width

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Loved this design! We had someone use it to make the final stage of a multi for us and it turned out awesome!! Wish I could post a picture but I can't figure out how. :(

It was the best cache I have ever placed! But... Mother Nature was mean last week and the place we put it is completely gone (it was near the edge of a cliff next to a creek). I am beyond sad and now I have to attempt to make this again myself. The person who made it for us said he would never do it again. :( Wish me luck! I have never attempted anything like this before!

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Many thanks to Soxter & Billini for the outstanding plans for the PVC Cryptex. It took me longer to make than expected, as is usually the case, but I am very pleased with the finished product. I learned a few things along the way that will help me make additional ones hopefully faster. Joe Wessels

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Finally completed and published my PVC Cryptex, just in time for Canada 150 weekend. Had to order some couplings from Amco Plumbing as the big box stores don't carry them. Used plastic forks (versus clamps) to force the smaller rings against the outer rings during drying. Had to use some PVC glue inside some rings which (once dry and hard) made them more snug against the core. Managed to find the craft letters at Michael's, which happened to be sized perfectly to manually fit all 26 letters per ring. A little bit of clear nail polish and clear spray paint and it was all done. GC76GDN

 

72x5cg.jpg

358192s.jpg

wuhvl4.jpg

149w9j.jpg

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Unfortunately most of the photo links are broken. I still had the original drawings archived so here are the images (put on Geocaching servers). I tried uploading them in order but the forum server may have its own agenda.

Cryptex 01.jpg

Cryptex 02.jpg

Cryptex 03.jpg

Cryptex 04.jpg

Cryptex 05.jpg

Cryptex 06.jpg

Cryptex 07.jpg

 

 

Cryptex 08.jpg

Cryptex 09.jpg

Edited by Papa EGTH
  • Helpful 4
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On 7/23/2012 at 9:05 PM, jjmcwill said:

Has anyone looked into using a 3D printer for the difficult to machine parts?

 

I don't have personal experience with them, but I've read about ones like the makerbot or reprap. You may even be able to get access to one at a member based workshop like makerworks in Ann Arbor, MI

 

Just a thought. If someone developed the 3D models and shared them, others could "print" the parts on their own machines.

Most of the mid-grade or "consumer" printers leave a rough texture on the "printed" pieces.   You needa higher end unit to get acceptable results(borrow or rent,for example at a makrspace as suggested).

Edited by wmpastor
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