Photographing geocoins

[+tachoknight]

I'd like to take some pictures of the coins I've collected as well as the coins I've moved on (a little late for the ones that are gone, I guess ) and was wondering how to do it. I have taken the picture of the coin held out at arms length in front of something, but what I'm going for here is the detail; some of the coins I've seen have some absolutely gorgeous detailing and I'd like to remember that amount of craftsmanship, if nothing else.

 

All the geocoin sites I've seen seem to follow a standard format of a straight, very close shot of both the front and back of the coin. The lighting is flat so there isn't any reflection, and the camera must have been close enough to pick up all the detail.

 

I'd like to know how to do something similar for myself...does anyone have any suggestions on lighting setup, camera type, etc.?

 

Thanks!

[+tachoknight]

Hmm..sorry about the double-posting; I got a php timeout the first time and hit back on the browser, and it seems to have posted it again. I guess I can't delete my own posts (make sense) so please ignore this one.

[+WRITE SHOP ROBERT]

I'd like to take some pictures of the coins I've collected as well as the coins I've moved on (a little late for the ones that are gone, I guess ) and was wondering how to do it. I have taken the picture of the coin held out at arms length in front of something, but what I'm going for here is the detail; some of the coins I've seen have some absolutely gorgeous detailing and I'd like to remember that amount of craftsmanship, if nothing else.

 

All the geocoin sites I've seen seem to follow a standard format of a straight, very close shot of both the front and back of the coin. The lighting is flat so there isn't any reflection, and the camera must have been close enough to pick up all the detail.

 

I'd like to know how to do something similar for myself...does anyone have any suggestions on lighting setup, camera type, etc.?

 

Thanks!

well, I usually don't go for the straight shot...I think many of these are done in tiny Studio type setups. Here are some things that I do...using a fairly cheap digital camera.

 

Set the camera for close ups...that's the one with the flower Icon and if you can adjust the color settings, I try to use the one that makes thge richer.

 

Move the coin and camera to positions which have the least amount of glare, of have the glare in spots that you don't mind

 

Make sure that you hold the camera perfectly still(in such close ups, the tiniest movement will blur the picture). Use a tiny tripod, or use some other stable object to support the camera(I'm often in a coffee shop for my puctures, so I hold the camera and my coffee cut tightly together to reduce movement).

 

Set the camera for multiple exposures, and take between 6 and 10 identical shots without moving the camera of coin, then pick the sharpest one.

 

When the camera indicates that it's focused, make sure it's the Coin in focus, and not the background.

 

Look through my Gallery for some examples of the results...I have a camera that can focus from as little as 1 inch away, so that makes a difference.

[+LadyBee4T]

I have a 3.2 mp camera and I had been using the super macro setting on it with a small tripod. I think that the coin pictures came out quite well doing that and the details jump right out at you--sometimes too well. Lately I have been taking the pictures outside on my deck using the regular settings. They have come out quite well that way too using the natural light. I take then further away and then zoom in to try to eliminate the camera shadows. It doesn't always do that though. Either way the camera has to be very still

[+Droo]

All digital cameras are pretty good for what you're trying to do. But the most important thing is make sure you have enough light so the shutter speed is fast enough to take crisp, sharp pictures without camera shake. Take your coin outside but not in direct sunlight. A cloudy day, a shady area.... whatever.

 

Okay you've got light now to focus. The closer you get the harder it is to get sharp images. Unless you use the Macro setting. Its icon looks like a flower. With macro I can get close enough to only have to use my fingers to steady the camera to take a shot. THAT's close. But what you sacrifice is depth of field. The area of sharpness or focus is really narrow. So macro is great for dead on flat images where you want a sharp narrow area in front but a quick drop off to a very blurry background.

 

But you say you want to get away from the dead on flat image where every portion of the image is the same distance to the lens. For that you need deep depth of field so macro won't work. For that I offer 2 suggestions....

 

1. If you're not yet familiar with you digital camera keep it in Auto mode but set your resolution pretty high. Let the camera work out exposure and focus then you can crop it in your photo editing software. Low resolution won't allow you very much detail once you zoom in and crop the useless stuff, high res will.

 

2. If you're comfortable playing with the different manual settings use the Aperture Priority setting (Av). Set your aperture at about f/8 and let the camera work out the shutter speed to get you the best exposure.

 

Aim your auto focus sensor (typically the middle) in the center of your coin but adjust your angle to get a more interesting composition of detail and highlights. Play with it and experiment with the different settings.

 

EDIT TO ADD:

Here's an example of dof problems with macro. In the top 4 pics there is a definite drop in sharpness away from the center but the lower 2 are flatter and sharper. Then next 1 was shot from 3 ft away and cropped. The depth of field is much deeper and extends from in front of the coin holders to a ways behind them .... as seen from the clarity of the wood grain.

Edited December 9, 2009 by Droo

[+Mar-elendili]

Also, if the coins you're trying to take pictures of are not shiny, consider using a scanner.

 

I've got some amazing results on antique, satin and other non polished finishes with my trusty old scanner. I've tried scanning larger 3D pieces (jewellery) with newer scanners and discovered that they can't focus on what's a little further away than directly against the pane, so depending on the device you have, this might work only for flat coins.

 

Give it a try, it's worth it (take a look at my collection, following the link below, all non shiny coins' pictures are taken with the scanner!)

[hirlas]

Here are some basic instructions that may get you started:

 

Taking a basic geocoin photo

 

[+Droo]

Here are some basic instructions that may get you started:

 

Taking a basic geocoin photo

 

Very nice intro to shooting coins with a digital camera. I love it that it includes pictures!!! .... and plays up the importance of post processing.

 

The best advice I saw in it is getting to know your camera and becoming familiar with the settings.