Anyone used 14500 Lithium cells in 60cx ?

[gessner17]

I have been searching to find out if anyone has attempted this or knows if the unit will handle it. My old garmin 45 would take anywhere from 5V-14V I think, so i was thinking these might be capable of using the 8.4V (hot off the charger) of two 14500 Li-ion cells. Anyone with any info, feel free to chime in.

Edited October 7, 2009 by gessner17

[+Red90]

Ummm, NO!!!!

 

The 5-14 Volts is via the 4 pin ONLY, not through the batterys.

[Tomas4x4]

I was wondering about the same thing for my Colorado (for use in winter and all). I was thinking about putting them in in parallel rather then in series (some piece of wire and thin insulation along with a bit of creativity should be enough).

 

I was also looking into using Li-Ion CRV3 rechargables.

 

They would not fit without 'adjustments' to either the battery or the unit (there is a 'ridge' in the middle of the battery compartment. It is probably a piece of plastic which could be 'removed' one way or other without affecting the unit's function. I have only tried with regular lithium CRV3 (didn't want to put too much money into it). Lithium battery I had could be easily taken appart and put into the unit (and work) - it is essentially two a bit shorter AA batteries connected on one end by metal in plastic wrapper. I have no idea how Li-Ions CRV3 are constructed and whether it would be possible to strip a bit off. My other concern would be the voltage, I have read somewhere on forums that Colorado has voltage protection and shuts down if the voltage is too high (it could shut down even with new lithium batteries according to it and you need to 'use' them a bit before they work).

 

I am hesitant to order battery and charger just to try it because I don't have any use for it otherwise. Anyone with rechargable Li-Ion CRV3 and Garmin GPS willing to give it a shot?

Edited October 8, 2009 by Tomas4x4

[+julianh]

Rather than hacking about with the inside of your GPSr, it might be safer and easier to just build yourself a battery pack that puts out ~5V DC, and wire up a short cable which feeds in via the USB connection. Keep the battery pack in your jacket if necessary for extended battery life in cold weather.

 

Or even easier - why not just go to your friendly neighbourhood electronics store, and buy a Lithium USB battery pack; e.g. http://www.bixnet.com/5v7libapa.html

 

Hope this helps!

[+spektrum2]

Rather than hacking about with the inside of your GPSr, it might be safer and easier to just build yourself a battery pack that puts out ~5V DC, and wire up a short cable which feeds in via the USB connection. Keep the battery pack in your jacket if necessary for extended battery life in cold weather.

 

Or even easier - why not just go to your friendly neighbourhood electronics store, and buy a Lithium USB battery pack; e.g. http://www.bixnet.com/5v7libapa.html

 

Hope this helps!

 

I've never come across one of those!Excellent thing to know for a variety of applications.Thanks for posting that info.

[+Prime Suspect]

Rather than hacking about with the inside of your GPSr, it might be safer and easier to just build yourself a battery pack that puts out ~5V DC, and wire up a short cable which feeds in via the USB connection. Keep the battery pack in your jacket if necessary for extended battery life in cold weather.

 

Or even easier - why not just go to your friendly neighbourhood electronics store, and buy a Lithium USB battery pack; e.g. http://www.bixnet.com/5v7libapa.html

 

Hope this helps!

As someone else has mentioned, the 4-pin connection is a far better choice than the rather fragile USB connection. It's physically more robust, and can accept a wide voltage range.

[+julianh]

Rather than hacking about with the inside of your GPSr, it might be safer and easier to just build yourself a battery pack that puts out ~5V DC, and wire up a short cable which feeds in via the USB connection. Keep the battery pack in your jacket if necessary for extended battery life in cold weather.

 

Or even easier - why not just go to your friendly neighbourhood electronics store, and buy a Lithium USB battery pack; e.g. http://www.bixnet.com/5v7libapa.html

 

Hope this helps!

As someone else has mentioned, the 4-pin connection is a far better choice than the rather fragile USB connection. It's physically more robust, and can accept a wide voltage range.

Fair comment - I had forgotten that some Garmin models have multiple ports on the back. Most of the newer form-factor models (e.g. eTrex, Dakota, Oregon, etc) only have USB, and you should only pump 5V through the USB port, as far as I know.

[robertlipe]

The question was about a "60cx". They do support the voltage-regulated round serial port that'll take a variety of DC dumped into them - totally unlike the USB ports - but only n the round serial port.

 

I have increasingly little sympathy for people that apply imprecise answers to their questions and end up with molten slag for their efforts. "I have a GPS. Can I apply 110v to it?" "Yes [ blah ] " "I didn't read (or understand) your "blah" so I soldered 110v to my USB port, and now I have a melted puddle of Si and plastic" "Boo Hoo"

 

The current-limited/voltage regulated round power port on the Garmins is a _much_ better choice for the DIY hobbyist than the USB connector.

[gessner17]

The question was about a "60cx". They do support the voltage-regulated round serial port that'll take a variety of DC dumped into them - totally unlike the USB ports - but only n the round serial port.

 

I have increasingly little sympathy for people that apply imprecise answers to their questions and end up with molten slag for their efforts. "I have a GPS. Can I apply 110v to it?" "Yes [ blah ] " "I didn't read (or understand) your "blah" so I soldered 110v to my USB port, and now I have a melted puddle of Si and plastic" "Boo Hoo"

 

The current-limited/voltage regulated round power port on the Garmins is a _much_ better choice for the DIY hobbyist than the USB connector.

 

Actually all I wanted to know is if anyone knew what the voltage range was for the 60CX through the battery connection. My old unit had a broad range, just wanted to know what the 60Cx was. I know higher voltage will kill it if it isn't designed for it, I'm not stupid people.

Edited October 9, 2009 by gessner17

[+Red90]

Actually all I wanted to know is if anyone knew what the voltage range was for the 60CX through the battery connection. My old unit had a broad range, just wanted to know what the 60Cx was. I know higher voltage will kill it if it isn't designed for it, I'm not stupid people.

 

The answer, is no, it will not accept higher voltage. In fact, using new, normal Lithium batteries will cause these particular units to crash on bootup as the voltage is too high.

 

Just use Ni-MH. Easy to find and have a long battery life.

[gessner17]

Actually all I wanted to know is if anyone knew what the voltage range was for the 60CX through the battery connection. My old unit had a broad range, just wanted to know what the 60Cx was. I know higher voltage will kill it if it isn't designed for it, I'm not stupid people.

 

The answer, is no, it will not accept higher voltage. In fact, using new, normal Lithium batteries will cause these particular units to crash on bootup as the voltage is too high.

 

Just use Ni-MH. Easy to find and have a long battery life.

I know, I have some NIMH ones but i just use 14500 in my headlamp so it's easier to pack one type of battery. Thanks for the info.

[+kallt_kaffe]

I know, I have some NIMH ones but i just use 14500 in my headlamp so it's easier to pack one type of battery. Thanks for the info.

 

Whatever you do, don't use the Li-ion batteries as trade items: http://www.stillwater-newspress.com/local/..._279115411.html