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How do you prepare your Ammo Can?


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Hi, I will be hiding my first ammo can pretty soon and would like to no some quick easy ways to get your ammo can prepared to go. are there any good stencils out there that i can use to put on my can? How do you guys prepare a can to go outside? And do you guys have any tips or advice on anything to do with ammo cans that could be handy to know?

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Hi, I will be hiding my first ammo can pretty soon and would like to no some quick easy ways to get your ammo can prepared to go. are there any good stencils out there that i can use to put on my can? How do you guys prepare a can to go outside? And do you guys have any tips or advice on anything to do with ammo cans that could be handy to know?

 

Well you could put the large Geo Stickers on the can just make sure that the log is in a zip lock bag and that it is hidden well and I think you are good to go.

 

Scubasonic

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Make sure the military markings are removed somehow.

 

It is a good idea to have "geocache" somewhere on the outside. They also have stickers that you can buy. They arent cheap though. This is not required but it isnt a bad idea.

 

Other than that you are good to go. Nothing else is necessary.

 

You can camo it however you want. Paint it, glue stuff too it. As long as it has a rubber seal on the lid then it will be water tight. There is no need for the log book to be in a bag as the cache will be completely sealed. If it got wet from rain while signing it the plastic baggie would only keep the moisture in the log book.

 

I paint mine with black, tan, primer red, green and brown paints. Just mist a little here and there. Try to get flat paint.

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I clean mine using denatured alcohol, then paint over the military markings. I don't believe in putting stickers on ammo cans. I use paint and a stencil I bought here. http://www.sissy-n-cr.com/store2.shtml

 

I leave the stenciled side untouched, then spend time camouflaging the side visible to geocachers.

 

Here is an image to inspire you.

 

th_New-Camo-bottom.jpg

th_New-Camo-Style.jpg

 

 

I highly recommend against placing an ammo can in an urban/suburban area. Ammo cans work best in the woods.

Edited by Kit Fox
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I leave the stenciled side untouched, then spend time camouflaging the side visible to geocachers.

 

Here is an image to inspire you.

 

 

I highly recommend placing an ammo can in an urban/suburban area. Ammo cans work best in the woods.

 

Hmmmmm, how do you insure the label stays down?

 

I wouldn't put an ammo can in urban/suburban area, to likely to be practice for the the bomb squad.

 

Jim

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I leave the stenciled side untouched, then spend time camouflaging the side visible to geocachers.

 

Here is an image to inspire you.

 

 

I highly recommend placing an ammo can in an urban/suburban area. Ammo cans work best in the woods.

 

Hmmmmm, how do you insure the label stays down?

 

I wouldn't put an ammo can in urban/suburban area, to likely to be practice for the the bomb squad.

 

Jim

 

I fixed my mistake :):anicute: . One word omitted really makes a difference. ;)

 

My camo tends to be 3-dimensional on one side. The bottom (side with the stencil) is flat. To date, I haven't found any of my ammo cans stencil side up.

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Remove the lid

Wash both parts

Spray primer over existing markings

Paint to match the location I will be hiding it

Write my name and contact info on it

Apply a small amount of anti-seize lubricant to the hinges

Reassemble

Fill with swag & a log book

Place cache

 

- Rev Mike

Edited by Rev Mike
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I recently prepped some cans this weekend:

 

Wash in the dish washer on "pots and pans" setting (no, really they've proven to be pretty dishwasher safe).

 

Dry well.

 

Paint with Rustoleum flat green and add light sprays with a flat black using available twigs and leaves for an inverse stencil/shadowing effect.

 

Lightly spray the inside with black as well. Rusty spots on the inside get a quick zap of the Rustoleum.

 

EDIT: Haven't stenciled in "GEOCACHE" yet and "DO NOT REMOVE" as I'm waiting to discover the perfect stencil solution.

Edited by Castle Mischief
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...

EDIT: Haven't stenciled in "GEOCACHE" yet and "DO NOT REMOVE" as I'm waiting to discover the perfect stencil solution.

 

It's far from perfect, but I just print out GEOCACHE in bold, inch-high letters on a sheet of paper, laminate the paper in plastic, then cut out the letters freehand with a fresh single-edge razor blade (leaving the occasional gap to support isolated shapes like the center of the letter O). One such handmade stencil lasts a long time. Dried paint can usually be removed by flexing the plastic--the paint flakes off.

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How do you prepare your Ammo Can?

 

I just take it aside and explain that I know it has served its country well and kept ammunition dry and clean for the troops but that it is time to move on into a new career as a geocache. To be honest I've never had one complain.

 

I'm glad you brought this up...because it's an important step. Many of the cache containers I've spoken with were ruefully unprepared for life as a geocache. This has led to cracked decon lids, leaking .30 cal seals and even stuck .50 cal latches!!

 

With a little prep time and some kind words they can transition into their new role without unnecessary stress or strains.

 

Coming from a proud line of Ammo cans I can assure you that ALL Ammo cans want to be in the field, we were born for it.

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I clean mine using denatured alcohol, then paint over the military markings. I don't believe in putting stickers on ammo cans. I use paint and a stencil I bought here. http://www.sissy-n-cr.com/store2.shtml

 

I leave the stenciled side untouched, then spend time camouflaging the side visible to geocachers.

 

Here is an image to inspire you.

 

th_New-Camo-bottom.jpg

th_New-Camo-Style.jpg

 

 

I highly recommend against placing an ammo can in an urban/suburban area. Ammo cans work best in the woods.

 

Kitfox,

 

Very impressive I likew what you did with the can.

 

SS

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I find a cammo pattern I like on the net, print the pattern on regular paper, cut it out with an exacto knife, and spray away:

 

If anyone is interested in a tutorial I can whip one up.

 

Your camo paint jobs look super good, but nature has very few straight lines. The outline of an ammo can is easily spotted, all you have to do is look for the edges, or the flat rectangle regardless of camo paint.

 

Again, this is an observation, not a criticism of your paint jobs. :lol:

 

Scubasonic,

 

Thanks for the kind words. Here is my latest 3-D version. :laughing:

 

th_3D-Ammo-Can-2.jpg

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Your camo paint jobs look super good, but nature has very few straight lines. The outline of an ammo can is easily spotted, all you have to do is look for the edges, or the flat rectangle regardless of camo paint.

 

Again, this is an observation, not a criticism of your paint jobs. :laughing:

 

No offense taken. I'm not making any attempt at visual subterfuge. I just like to put out good looking cans.

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other than painting, hit the seals with some silicone to keep them soft so they seal and keep moisture out.

 

I'm assuming you mean silicone lubricant and not silicone sealant...?

:laughing: yeah, sorry bout that. silicone spray lube. if you dont want to get it all over the place you can just remove the seals, spray and put them back on. since you should be removing them anyways before you pain the cans.

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other than painting, hit the seals with some silicone to keep them soft so they seal and keep moisture out.

 

I'm assuming you mean silicone lubricant and not silicone sealant...?

:) yeah, sorry bout that. silicone spray lube. if you dont want to get it all over the place you can just remove the seals, spray and put them back on. since you should be removing them anyways before you pain the cans.

 

Actually, I just left the lids closed when I recently painted mine. I just it depends on how much of a completist you are or how much time you want to put into it. (When I dusted the inside the sprayer was actually in the can and I wasn't too worried about how it would affect the seal.)

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I have painted mine with rust-oluem. But I only have one problem. It Has dripping marks on the can. And I know that you are not suppose to have drip marks on them but i cant help it when you press the lid thing to let out the paint it usually lets out to much and dries on drip marks! But I guess the can does not need to be perfect. I'm buying a camera today so I will post Pics soon.

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I have painted mine with rust-oluem. But I only have one problem. It Has dripping marks on the can. And I know that you are not suppose to have drip marks on them but i cant help it when you press the lid thing to let out the paint it usually lets out to much and dries on drip marks! But I guess the can does not need to be perfect. I'm buying a camera today so I will post Pics soon.

 

Many lighter coats are better than one heavy coat. Maybe you're just applying the paint to thickly to one area?

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I have painted mine with rust-oluem. But I only have one problem. It Has dripping marks on the can. And I know that you are not suppose to have drip marks on them but i cant help it when you press the lid thing to let out the paint it usually lets out to much and dries on drip marks! But I guess the can does not need to be perfect. I'm buying a camera today so I will post Pics soon.
Many lighter coats are better than one heavy coat. Maybe you're just applying the paint to thickly to one area?
Also, when you start painting, point the spray nozzle away from the object you're painting. Move the spray across the object you're painting in even strokes. Start and finish each stroke away from the object you're painting. That keeps the coat of paint even. It's almost impossible to get an even coat if you start spraying with the nozzle pointing at the object you're painting.
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One other person mentioned this, but what I do is find a "stencil" font on the internet for my word processor and print out whatever i need the side of the cache to say on some good hard cardstock. Then I just use an exacto to cut them all out and presto, stencil. If you let it dry thoroughly between uses, you can use it for a good long time.

Edited by Mredria
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Here is the Pic of my cache container. Nothing special but it is my first one. As life goes on I would like to come up with better stencil Ideas and better camo jobs for the ammo cans.

 

Anyway the first picture shows the ammo can after I primed it and painted it. (before there was rust and it was a different color)

 

DSC00012.jpg

 

 

Second picture has the stencil on it.

 

DSC00009.jpg

 

And The Swag items. There are a couple in there I would like to keep but im sure other cachers would like them.

 

DSC00011.jpg

 

 

 

 

I would love to see pics of your guys Ammo cans!!!!!!! Or any kind of geocache that you would like to share.

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Haven't stenciled in "GEOCACHE" yet and "DO NOT REMOVE" as I'm waiting to discover the perfect stencil solution.

 

I use the stencil from Sissy-n-CR.

Google 'em.

 

I use an army stencil-type font and print "geocaching.com gamepiece/ do not remove" on card stock or other thick paper. I tape over the letters with clear tape and use an extacto knife to cut out the letters. It takes a couple hours to do, but one will last awhile.

 

I then camo paint my ammo can and paint the stencil in in white. a mist of black or OD paint will dull the white and it's ready to go!

 

Here is an example:

70d437d6-8792-4857-9126-10ab2d2a931c.jpg

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Haven't stenciled in "GEOCACHE" yet and "DO NOT REMOVE" as I'm waiting to discover the perfect stencil solution.

 

I use the stencil from Sissy-n-CR.

Google 'em.

 

I use an army stencil-type font and print "geocaching.com gamepiece/ do not remove" on card stock or other thick paper. I tape over the letters with clear tape and use an extacto knife to cut out the letters. It takes a couple hours to do, but one will last awhile.

 

I then camo paint my ammo can and paint the stencil in in white. a mist of black or OD paint will dull the white and it's ready to go!

 

Here is an example:

70d437d6-8792-4857-9126-10ab2d2a931c.jpg

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Like Kit, I prefer physical camo over painted camo, as Momma Nature abhores a straight line.

I paint over the military markings, apply "Official Geocaching Gamepiece" with the Sissy & CR stencil, then smear Liquid Nails black roof repair caulk on 5 sides, avoiding joints and seams. Then I press in various amounts of spanish moss, ground moss and shredded brown excellsior. Let cure for 3 or 4 days, add logbook & swag and attach a tether. It's ready to hide.

From this:

57908f34-a08e-44d9-b287-74f17bc8c5f7.jpg

to this:

274b4784-62c8-4146-ab40-504cfdf11979.jpg

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I just use a Geocache sticker. I like the militaria look. I even leav the markings on. No one around here knows what they mean anyway. With the sticker, I don't think anyone will mistake it for a live ammo.

 

As for the ziplock on the log, it is important if you are in an area that has significant temperature changes as there will be condensation in the box when it gets cold.

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I find a cammo pattern I like on the net, print the pattern on regular paper, cut it out with an exacto knife, and spray away:

 

Caches001.jpg

 

Woodland001.jpg

 

If anyone is interested in a tutorial I can whip one up.

 

awesome paint jobs, glad I reads this being a noob to this

great ideas, heading to the paint & craft store to prep my cans

its raining out anyways and dont feel like getting soggy today on hunts/hides

thanks to others for the ideas on nevr sieze, lubes etc

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On the subject of camo, when trying out different camo paint techniques, try to put the finished product in the wild. Step back and take a picture. See how well it blends in.

 

Many a camo job looks great on the bench only to fail miserably in the wild.

 

Most big box stores carry specialized camo paint. Satin forest green is not nearly as good a color for camo as camo forest green.

 

Save black for the last layer. This would be your stencil layer and texturizing.

 

I layer my colors generally as a green base, brown in splotches, and then finer texture in black. You can use local foliage as a stencil.

 

15f4737f-43a1-4d54-a47f-d93b5acdc3d9.jpg

 

Adjust colors to fit dead leaves, green foliage, dirt, etc.

 

Heck, if you're hiding some deep in think brush a simple flat black works very well. Then I'd use any other dark color for the stencil--not a light or bright color.

 

Note: you don't need a high contrast color for the stencil as you can see in the above photo. You only need to be able to read the stencil form a very short distance.

 

Hope this is helpful.

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How does that moss hold up?

It's not perfect. There is a degree of degridation. Individual pieces of moss break off at the adhesive line over time.

This is why I switched to black caulk. After a few years, when lots of the moss has broken off, it's still camo'ed.

Repairing them is as easy as camo'ing them. I yank the old containers after a couple years, swapping them out for new ones, then reapply camo to the old ones.

I've always got a pile of ready to hide containers handy.

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How does that moss hold up?
It's not perfect. There is a degree of degridation. Individual pieces of moss break off at the adhesive line over time.

This is why I switched to black caulk. After a few years, when lots of the moss has broken off, it's still camo'ed.

Repairing them is as easy as camo'ing them. I yank the old containers after a couple years, swapping them out for new ones, then reapply camo to the old ones.

I've always got a pile of ready to hide containers handy.

To me, it seems as though it might be better to create a cover in the manner you've camoed the can. The finder simply lifts off the cover, deals with the can, and replaces. This would lead to less handling of the camo and it should last longer. Plus, you can swap out a cover easier than the whole container.

 

We've done something similar to this on a couple of caches. We've found Real Tree ™ clothes on sale, and then cut and sewn them into "cache bags." Works pretty good without having to paint the container itself.

 

Just a thought.

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Personally, I like to find some sort of special quiet time with them. Maybe take them camping... they seem to enjoy that, and its a good time for bonding.

 

Once the time feels right (over the campfire is usually good) I carefully let them know that they will soon be left in the deep woods, probably under a rotting log, and covered by an unnatural pile of sticks.

 

It gets tougher when the time comes to let them know that occasionally someone will show up, remove the sticks, open it up, and remove that brand-new flashlight and replace it with a used golf ball they found on their hike in. Or maybe they will "buy" it for a quarter.... or less.

 

This is NOT an easy talk, my friend. Call it tough love, if you will. But I believe that it is neccessary preparation for any ammo can before making a cache out of it. Please do not neglect this step.

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I like to paint mine camo, then stencil "Danger High Explosive" on it and also paint one of those radioactive symbols. Then I hide it in plain site near a government building or hospital.

 

Then I turn on the local news channel and wait :)

:):D:D

 

Almost right, but that isn't the one you hide. That is the one that you donate as a door prize to the next big event!

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To me, it seems as though it might be better to create a cover in the manner you've camoed the can.

I agree. It seems to be a simpler process. Alas, I am utterly worthless with a sewing machine. :)

One method I attempted with high hopes was an attempt to utilize some of my very rusty military training.

I bought some cotton netting and various colors of burlap and did my dangdest to build a little Ghillie suit.

Obviously, my skills degraded over the decades, as the end result looked like a baby wookie. :)

I have also tried using just camo cloth, but I wasn't pleased with the results.

I thought it was a lot better than camo duct tape, but it still stood out as being something unnatural. Maybe it was the somewhat flat surface of the cloth?

If I could get my mitts on a few yards of the 3D cloth used to make this jacket, that might make for some kewl camo:

87957-1.jpg

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