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How is your battery life in your PN-40?


TurLee

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I'm wondering how others are doing with battery life in the PN-40, particularly you cold weather people.

 

I didn't install the Max batteries that came in the box; used a package of store brand alkalines that I already had opened … only got about 4 hours each on two sets of batteries before it squawked and turned red, time split about half and half between being in the house or warm car and outdoors in 30 to 35 degree weather. Is that typical?

 

Anybody think more expensive batteries are worth the cost? Don't have much experience with GPS receivers but in other uses I've never really noticed any difference using cheapo batteries … the ones from this current package are fresh and work fine in my flashlights, guitar tuner, etc., even in the outdoor sensor for my thermometer.

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Especially for cold weather use, the rechargeable Li-Ion or the e2 Lithium AAs seem to be least affected by the temperature. I'd expect something like 6-7 hours on the rechargeable Li-Ion (I got 11 hours and some change on a window-sill rundown in power-saving mode this summer, but have since learned that field use might be somewhat less). I am under the impression that the e2's will give at least 11 hours at full throttle (i.e., backlight on continuously) up to perhaps somewhere around 20 hours depending on power saving settings. I haven't used any, favoring rechargeable batteries in general, but I have been told they aren't too pricey if purchased in some bulk. I do intend to get some for backup purposes at the least.

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Rechargeables are the way to go in general. Lower cost over time and fewer contributions to the local landfill. However, NiMH rechargeables yield less time in cold weather. If I'm going to be out for quite a while, I carry disposable Lithiums as backup (after my backup pair of rechargeables).

 

My experience is that the PN-40 is similar to the Colorado. For whatever reason, alkaline disposables give poor battery life -- 4 to 6 hours to a pair. On the Colorado, at least, a "dead" pair of alkalines will actually power a flashlight (or a less picky GPSr) for quite some time after being removed from the unit. Not sure about the PN-40 as the only pair of alkalines I used is the pair that came with the unit. I get 10 hours or so of typical caching use out of a pair of 2700 mAh NiMH rechargeables (but not in cold weather). YMMV.

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One thing to note; re-chargeable batteries only work as well as the charger used to charge 'em.

Cheap i5 min. charger fries the batteries and gives short run times. Think to spend a little extra

and get a LaCrosse(sp?), or Maha charger. Google Thomas Dist., or any of the battery houses

on-line should offer better options than the (dare I say) Wally World Junk.

 

Norm

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A side note on batteries: I got the nice Maha for Christmas and have been checking out my battery collection. I'm finding that they tend to run 15-25% below their printed ratings. Most of them are old but I was especially disappointed with new 2900 mAh Delkins that came in at about 2100 actual after running through the conditioning cycle.

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A side note on batteries: I got the nice Maha for Christmas and have been checking out my battery collection. I'm finding that they tend to run 15-25% below their printed ratings. Most of them are old but I was especially disappointed with new 2900 mAh Delkins that came in at about 2100 actual after running through the conditioning cycle.

I'm also noticing this phenomenon; on just about every battery(new or old), man, method, or machine, somethings not right.

New batteries seldom "check to spec.", best one can do is match 'em up in close pairs. Time for the FTC to induce the

manufacturers towards some truth in advertising. I remember when they stepped in on HiFi amplifier RMS ratings, then every

body switched to measuring into a 4 ohm load so the numbers "seemed higher". Can't really do that w/batteries though.

They either meet spec., or don't, really only one way to measure.

 

Norm

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A side note on batteries: I got the nice Maha for Christmas and have been checking out my battery collection. I'm finding that they tend to run 15-25% below their printed ratings. Most of them are old but I was especially disappointed with new 2900 mAh Delkins that came in at about 2100 actual after running through the conditioning cycle.

 

I'm not pleased with the Delkin 2900's at all, and if they are checking out to be 2100, then that's as good as it will get (4 of mine are below 2200, IIRC, and the other 4 are around 2400).

 

By the way, when charging the Delkin's, I have been charging them at around 1300 and have noticed that they get hot to the touch. I charge my PowerEx 2500s at 1200 and they don't even get warm during the charge cycle.

 

Something is very bad and wrong with the Delkin NiMH rechargeables.... not recommended!

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Oh boy. So in addition to learning the intricate menu system of a new electronic gadget and its associated software and brushing up on map reading, orbital mechanics and relativity theory you're telling me I now have to update myself on the current state of battery technology, all to be able to print a phony name on a damp slip of paper hidden under the world's thorniest blackberry bush in the dead of winter. Ah, the things we do for fun.

 

Well, got an ice storm on the way here today so if the lines don't go down I'll have plenty of time for research. Maybe a hand warmer or pair of electric heated gloves? Less expensive than the e2 lithiums and with fringe benefits.

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Is anyone using RCRV-3 rechargeables in their PN-40, charging it just through USB?

 

How long does it take to go from dead to full?

Yes, and I don't really know. If it's up here to transfer GPX or other it's on the charge. Or, if I'm in the car driving around, it's on the 12VDC accessory to USB charge and when I get back home, I just leave it there (garage parking).

 

Consequently, it rarely gets run down.

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A side note on batteries: I got the nice Maha for Christmas and have been checking out my battery collection. I'm finding that they tend to run 15-25% below their printed ratings. Most of them are old but I was especially disappointed with new 2900 mAh Delkins that came in at about 2100 actual after running through the conditioning cycle.

I've had better luck (with eneloop 2000s, Sanyo 2700s and Rayovac 2100s). They tend to come in at about 93% to 95% of the "nominal" capacities (the numbers above). The eneloops are labeled with a "typical" capacity of 2000 mAh and a "minimum" capacity of 1900 mAh, and the Sanyo 2700s similarly are labeled 2700 mAh typical/2500 mAh min, so these are coming in at around 100% of their minimums. The Rayovacs only state the 2100 mAh number, but they do seem to come in with slightly higher capacities than the similar eneloops, so the 2100 mAh rating vs. 2000 for the eneloops seems real (but this is based on limited testing).

 

One thing I tried that didn't really make any difference is to lower the discharge rate on the MAHA from the default 500 mA to 200 mA. The handhelds I use tend to draw 120 to 250 mA, and I thought that the batteries might exhibit higher capacities at the lower currents. However, I haven't seen any differences (one-time test of 4 eneloops).

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One thing I tried that didn't really make any difference is to lower the discharge rate on the MAHA from the default 500 mA to 200 mA. The handhelds I use tend to draw 120 to 250 mA, and I thought that the batteries might exhibit higher capacities at the lower currents. However, I haven't seen any differences (one-time test of 4 eneloops).

I assume you're talking about the discharge rate during the conditioning cycle. Not sure I'd expect that to make much difference in the capacity you see when charged. What might make a difference is the charge rate you use each time you charge. I'm no expert, but I seem to recall seeing something in the Maha instructions about limiting the charge rate to 1/3 C -- and that lower charge rates might be somewhat more effective. For 2700mAh, the default charge rate of 1000 mA isn't too far off. But for 2000/2100 mAh batteries, it's well above 1/3 C.

 

Finally, you can always leave them in the charger after they're charged. There's some benefit to the trickle charge. And if you're not using Eneloops (or similar low self-discharge batteries), you have a better chance of having a full charge when you put them in the device.

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