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Make your own WATERPROOF logs..


mchaos

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Hi,

 

I am new to geocaching but I love it. I have come across a few logs that were soaked and falling appart. I know they sell the rite in rain logs and such, but I don't always have the money myself to spend on the good stuff to make a cache.

 

This got me thinking of ways to try to waterproof paper while still being writable. After trying a few things I have found something that seems to do the trick.

 

Testors Dull coat. Out of the clear sprays I have tried, this stuff seems to make the paper stand up in water, and you can still write on it when its wet. Also, it still acts and feels pretty much like paper. It gets slightly more rigid, buy not by much. If does not become brittle either.

 

Regular clear poly made it brittle and didn't write very well dry let alone wet. I am guessing that the dull surface that the dull coat creates is rough enough to make the ball on a pen spin, even when wet.

 

The difference between paper that has been sprayed and that has not is very clear. I used regular printer paper.

 

Un treated paper soaks up the water instantly, and gets mushy and easily falls apart. The stuff I treated with the dull coat has been in a ziplock bag for 3 days and still is a single sheet of paper.

 

Also, when submerged it does not look wet either as were the untreated gets soaked and you can see through it.

 

This stuff works great!!

 

I sprayed the dull coat liberally on the paper so that the paper would absorb the dull coat.

 

I am going to test it out some more.

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Sounds like a good idea. Do you coat them before or after printing on them? Also before or after cutting them to log size?

If you have a ink jet you would have to spray before you printed them or else your ink would not be waterproof.

I have a laser printer and just use Rite in the rain all weather copy paper. About 13 cents per sheet not counting shipping. No spraying, no fuss, no mess. Print, cut, staple whatever size logs you want.

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Sounds like a good idea. Do you coat them before or after printing on them? Also before or after cutting them to log size?

If you have a ink jet you would have to spray before after you printed them or else your ink would not be waterproof.

I have a laser printer and just use Rite in the rain all weather copy paper. About 13 cents per sheet not counting shipping. No spraying, no fuss, no mess. Print, cut, staple whatever size logs you want.

Fixed your mistake above.

 

Fwiw, National Geographic paper would replace all that spraying. I use this on my ink jet all the time. I have yet to have a smear happen once the ink dries.

 

Also, I have used clear coat protection on my signature items before. This is a good process for short term protection, but not good for long term protection of a log in a cache. The extra $2 you spend on Rite in the Rain notebooks will net you better results in longevity and save your ink jet for other things.

Edited by TotemLake
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I spray after I print.

 

I Had the can of dull coat. I can spray any paper I want, and it uses very little spray to coat.

 

As for long term.. I am working on 4 days submerged, and the piece of paper does not even look wet in the water.

 

I have taken out 2 times only to write on it to make sure it writes and it does not loose the ink. So far it still writes, and it has not lost ink.

 

I have also tugged on it. It is strong, still not as strong as dry, but it really is a amazing how the paper holds up after sprayed. will take some pictures and maybe even a video just so every one can see how well this works.

 

As I have stated. I have tried other sprays including regular polyurethane and a flat clear poly as well. they did not have the same effect. They made the paper brittle. As well it didn't seem write as well. It just seems like specifically Testors dull coat seems to work the best.

 

you can buy a whole ream of paper for $5 at walmart. There are 500 sheets. If you were to buy 500 sheets at .13 a sheet you would spend $65.00. One can of spray is $4 and it will prolly do half a reem of paper.

 

That is a substantial difference in cost.

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Could be a good idea.

Your next two or three tests:

#1 Make a log book and stick it in the freezer over night.

When you pull it out and bend it does it break?

#2 make one and subject it 95°+ (you do have those kinds of days in New Jersey right?) for a day or two.

Does it stick together?

#3 the real test pack it into a container with so much swag that you have to force the lid in place (I have seen it more than once) and expose it to high temps.

Does it stick together?

I say thats the real test because I had the idea to undercut a rival magician at a fair by hand crafting my decks. Unfortunately cards that where cured for 2 weeks before they where put back into the box went from a deck to a block on a hot summer day. Oh well he may make more money because he can buy in larger volumes but I'm still the better prestidigitator. :P

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If you have a ink jet you would have to spray before you printed them or else your ink would not be waterproof.

I have a laser printer and just use Rite in the rain all weather copy paper. About 13 cents per sheet not counting shipping. No spraying, no fuss, no mess. Print, cut, staple whatever size logs you want.

They make notebooksl, too.

Found you a better deal.

100 sheets of 4 5/8" x 7" Rite in the Rain Tactical loose leaf at amazon.

Tactical - Green $9.89 + $4.55

Tactical - Tan $9.89 + $4.13

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This got me thinking of ways to try to waterproof paper while still being writable. After trying a few things I have found something that seems to do the trick.

 

Testors Dull coat. Out of the clear sprays I have tried, this stuff seems to make the paper stand up in water, and you can still write on it when its wet.

I have found another good use for Dull-coat: spraying it on a camo-taped container to make it less shiny. Three coats makes a visible difference; the container is much less "eye-catching" and blends in easier with its surroundings.

 

This is a quote from a log for the first cache I tried this out on:

After I found the cache, the first thought that came to mind was "This is a professional cache" (or could be if there was such a thing). A very high quality cache.

It's good stuff :-)

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I know this is an old post to reply to but here it goes.

I am currently experimenting with "texas steer water proofer" on some 1/4" grid paper.

This stuff is for boots and apparel so I'll see how it goes.

I am a caver so I need to map caves "some of them wet" with paper that is waterproof and you can still write on it.

I know about "rite in the rain" but that stuff is expensive.

I'll let you all know how the experiment comes out.

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Tyvek!

 

~*

And to get a free lifetime supply, just look in the trash container that contractors set up in front of houses they are building. When they cut out the windows/doors/trim excess, they throw it out.

what part are they cutting out? the openings are made for doors and windows during the build. are you talking about the packaging for the doors?

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Tyvek!

 

~*

And to get a free lifetime supply, just look in the trash container that contractors set up in front of houses they are building. When they cut out the windows/doors/trim excess, they throw it out.

what part are they cutting out? the openings are made for doors and windows during the build. are you talking about the packaging for the doors?

 

Tyvek, for those who don't know what it is... is a Dupont product of spun polyethylene fibers. The "hard" variety (paper) is predominatly used as a moisture-proofing housewrap. The "soft" (fabric) variety is used (among other things) to manufacture protective suits used by painters, insulators, or anyone else who doesn't want dust, dirt or spray on them.

The house wrap is applied after the structure is framed and sheathed. It comes on a roll, so home builders start at one corner of the house, and like a Christmas present, wrap the whole thing around. It is better done this way to eliminate seams that leak which defeat the purpose.

Contractors then go back and cut the paper overwrap from the window and door openings . This is usually thrown away.

It is easily written on, and has a very good resistance to tearing. Excellent for a log sheet!!

 

edit to add- best of all it can be found in the dumpster for free. Tyvek is just one brand name for this, and there are other varieties of housewrap "paper" available also.

Edited by NeecesandNephews
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Tyvek!

 

~*

And to get a free lifetime supply, just look in the trash container that contractors set up in front of houses they are building. When they cut out the windows/doors/trim excess, they throw it out.

what part are they cutting out? the openings are made for doors and windows during the build. are you talking about the packaging for the doors?

 

Tyvek, for those who don't know what it is... is a Dupont product of spun polyethylene fibers. The "hard" variety (paper) is predominatly used as a moisture-proofing housewrap. The "soft" (fabric) variety is used (among other things) to manufacture protective suits used by painters, insulators, or anyone else who doesn't want dust, dirt or spray on them.

The house wrap is applied after the structure is framed and sheathed. It comes on a roll, so home builders start at one corner of the house, and like a Christmas present, wrap the whole thing around. It is better done this way to eliminate seams that leak which defeat the purpose.

Contractors then go back and cut the paper overwrap from the window and door openings . This is usually thrown away.

It is easily written on, and has a very good resistance to tearing. Excellent for a log sheet!!

 

edit to add- best of all it can be found in the dumpster for free. Tyvek is just one brand name for this, and there are other varieties of housewrap "paper" available also.

Thanks for the lesson. I will be keeping an eye out for it.

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