HIKE OF THE YEAR – 2008

[+Criminal]

Wonder Mountain Wilderness: 27 September

 

Ironman and I tried to make it a few weeks ago but ended up sleeping on the hillside. I attribute this to the late start we had (noon) and that we spent far too much time trying to follow surveyor’s tape trails that went nowhere.

 

There are no maintained trails in (or into) the Wilderness, so we’ll hike ‘own navigation’ from the Skokomish River Trail. We’re aiming for the big lake in the western corner of the wilderness to do some fishing and Ironman was intending to drop a cache nearby. This promises to be a pretty brutal hike with all the typical excitement that off-trail hiking brings with it:

 

Higher possibility of failing to reach the destination altogether.

Higher possibility of becoming lost, maimed, or dead.

Higher possibility of inadvertently entering the food chain, at the bottom.

Higher possibility of soreness and walking with a limp for several days afterward.

Absolute probability of an incredible, even epic, hike to a place that few others have gone, and one you’ll never forget.

 

A few notes on the trail: The Skokomish River Trail is in pretty rough shape. The second bridge, the one that goes over the Skok River, is gone. We crossed on a long narrow log; I won’t do it again (my hands were shaking when I got to the other side). I was sure I was going to witness a drowning a few years ago when someone toppled off a far shorter log and I think it would be easier and safer to just wade through. I’ll carry my boots; wear some water shoes and stash them on the other side for the return trip. The Skok trail is also washed out by creeks in at least three places and the rest of it is in poor condition. That’s no matter, we’ll only have to endure the trail, such as it is, for about 2½ miles.

 

A few notes on equipment: Pack light. My pack was ~40 pounds, Ironman’s was closer to 65 pounds. I’m truly impressed that he was able to carry that behemoth as far, for as long, and over the terrain that we traveled; I sure couldn’t.

 

Saturday: Arrive at the trailhead early and hike to the lake. 2½ miles of trail and about 1 to 1½ up the hillside to the pass, then less than a mile to the lake.

Sunday: Spend the morning fishing and break camp to hike out -or- plan to stay another night and spend the entire day fishing and exploring.

Monday: Spend the morning fishing and then break camp and hike out.

Tuesday through the following Monday: Moan, groan, limp, and be a general slug while we recover.

Edited September 23, 2008 by Criminal

[+CACHE KRAWLER]

Ohhh, to be RETIRED. I'd join you in a heart beat Criminal, but unfortunately I don't think Uncle Sam would think too highly of my excuse for missing a day. Maybe next time bro. --MLI

[+hydnsek]

Gee, that sounds awesome. Alas, I have to wash my hair bathe the cats Saturday night.

Edited September 24, 2008 by hydnsek

[+SmartSapper]

4 miles or so? Don't sound too bad...What's the catch vertical gain?

[+Pyewacket]

IronMaiden...you're letting FE go? I thought he was grounded.

 

Looks like a seriously awesome hike...maybe I can make it in my next lifetime.

[+markandsandy]

4 miles or so? Don't sound too bad...What's the catch vertical gain?

 

4 miles or so

 

Check out this thread from his previous attempt. The pictures are great.

[MarcusArelius]

The thing you left off the post is where the trail head it located.

 

I didn't even know where the wilderness area was until I looked it up

 

http://www.wilderness.net/index.cfm?fuse=N...nder%20Mountain

http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/olympic/recreation..._1.shtml#wonder

[+Og's outfit]

Aww, I'd totally be up to this, but I've got tickets to the Mariners game.

No really, I do!

 

I hope you survive to tell the tale! Catch some fish!

[+Criminal]

Here's the topo. The trailhead is the Skokomish River Trail(head).

[+Forty-n-Eight]

...and Ironman was intending to drop a cache nearby.

 

Remember to keep the cache out of the Wilderness area...I've made that mistake before...had to go back and remove it the next week.

[nolenator]

A friend and I rode that trail in the mid nineties on mountain bikes. Very cool area! I think I will bake a cake or maybe some cookies... Peace, Nolenator

[IronMaiden]

"IronMaiden...you're letting FE go? I thought he was grounded. "

 

 

He's not "grounded". I just don't want him strapping the house to his back and taking off in the woods again.

 

Seriously, I want him to go back and hike this area. They were so close to the lake and yet so far. Besides he needs to baptize his new hiking gear he got a few weeks ago. The back yard doesn't count.

Edited September 24, 2008 by IronMaiden

[+TotemLake]

"IronMaiden...you're letting FE go? I thought he was grounded. "

 

 

He's not "grounded". I just don't want him strapping the house to his back and taking off in the woods again.

 

Seriously, I want him to go back and hike this area. They were so close to the lake and yet so far. Besides he needs to baptize his new hiking gear he got a few weeks ago. The back yard doesn't count.

Although I am getting better at my endurance and energy, I'm not quite up to it this year.

[+Pyewacket]

"IronMaiden...you're letting FE go? I thought he was grounded. "

 

 

He's not "grounded". I just don't want him strapping the house to his back and taking off in the woods again.

 

Seriously, I want him to go back and hike this area. They were so close to the lake and yet so far. Besides he needs to baptize his new hiking gear he got a few weeks ago. The back yard doesn't count.

 

I was just teasing...I'm excited for the both of them (and anyone else who is going), if not a bit envious that I wish I could make it.

 

Just be careful out there, gentlemen! I know I don't need to remind you of that, but saying it shows you I care.

Edited September 24, 2008 by Pyewacket

[MarcusArelius]

Hey how come those little lines are so squished together on that topo map.

 

Must be a printing error or something

[+ironman114]

Things are looking better for making this attempt again.

 

I just finished adjusting my new pack and put all my gear in it and weighed it.

 

I am down from 65 pounds to 32 pounds plus water!!!! With 2 liters I should be around 35-36 pounds.

 

Now to pick out which kitchen item I can take without IronMaiden missing it for a couple of days.

[+MtnMutt-ProDuckShins]

Have you considered this to help your weight loss program?

Meals, eating utensils and etc.

A Spork can be a spoon/fork, knife you already carry why have 2.

Meals, can be prepared before hand, sealed in a nice Seal-a-meal container, then frozen to last a few days on the trail. You can boil water, which cooks the meal and eat out of the bag, then wham.. you now have a hot beverage to drink with your meal.

 

Now go unpack your pack and lay everything out before you.

What do you have which has been duplicated? Do you really need it?

Check over every thing you have planned on taking and then ask yourself will I really used this.

A tent is nice but a lite-weight tarp can make a lean-to. Are you taking a couple of treking poles, these can be used for poles for your lean-to.

What I'm saying, 'What items can be left since I have this which can be used for that?

 

One last comment before stepping down from this soapbox. Make a list of EVERYTHING you take including pack, clips, what ever. As you sit down that first evening check-off everything you used. The next morning do the same, once you return to your vehicle again go over your list.

What could you have left?

Please enjoy your trip and keep smiling, provide someone with an ECD of your return.

 

MtnMutt

 

Yes, I would loved to have been going on this adventure.

[+Criminal]

Meals, can be prepared before hand, sealed in a nice Seal-a-meal container, then frozen to last a few days on the trail. You can boil water, which cooks the meal and eat out of the bag, then wham.. you now have a hot beverage to drink with your meal.

The only foods I’ll be bringing are some freeze dried MountainHouse meals and several Cliff Bars. We’re staying (hopefully) at the lake so there shouldn’t be any shortage of water. Frozen food is too heavy. The only unnecessary items in my pack are my fishing pole and a few lures & hooks. I’m still debating the Ham radio.

 

I’m also still debating the tent issue. Mine weighs four pounds. I may yet decide to make a last minute run up to REI and pick up a bivy sack.

 

I would like to see more people in on this, it should be a fantastic hike.

[+ironman114]

Have you considered this to help your weight loss program?

Meals, eating utensils and etc.

A Spork can be a spoon/fork, knife you already carry why have 2.

Meals, can be prepared before hand, sealed in a nice Seal-a-meal container, then frozen to last a few days on the trail. You can boil water, which cooks the meal and eat out of the bag, then wham.. you now have a hot beverage to drink with your meal.

 

Now go unpack your pack and lay everything out before you.

What do you have which has been duplicated? Do you really need it?

Check over every thing you have planned on taking and then ask yourself will I really used this.

A tent is nice but a lite-weight tarp can make a lean-to. Are you taking a couple of treking poles, these can be used for poles for your lean-to.

What I'm saying, 'What items can be left since I have this which can be used for that?

 

One last comment before stepping down from this soapbox. Make a list of EVERYTHING you take including pack, clips, what ever. As you sit down that first evening check-off everything you used. The next morning do the same, once you return to your vehicle again go over your list.

What could you have left?

Please enjoy your trip and keep smiling, provide someone with an ECD of your return.

 

MtnMutt

 

Yes, I would loved to have been going on this adventure.

 

 

I already have a spork.

I always carry two knives. I have broken one before. Also one is attached to my pack and one to my belt. Food is freeze dried. Water is two liters, we ran low last time before we got to a lake or stream.

 

If you read the story of the last hike you will see that the terrain was too steep for much of a tent and I did sleep in a tarp made into a bivy sack. This time we will make the lake and there will be bugs.

 

Last time we never made it to the lake so the fishing pole was never used. I won't leave that behind! I never used my stove either.....I didn't have water for the freeze dried meals. I suppose I could have left the tent, (it did rain on the way out), stove and food as I never used any of those Items. My pack certainly would have been lighter.

 

I dropped out the coffee pot and put in some of that nasty freeze dried stuff. If we were on any kind of trail I would take it, but not here.

 

And oh yes I probably should have left the useless ammocan with cache contents behind also, since I never placed it.

 

 

You are still welcome to come on our adventure or others we are planning.

[+ironman114]

Looks like its just me and Criminal.

 

We should be back Sunday. My wife knows where we are going and where and when to send a search party.

 

You see she had to do just that last December in this same spot!

 

Of course the rescue party came after I had dug 6 hours and still was stuck. They found me the next morning, five miles from my truck on my way out.

Edited September 27, 2008 by ironman114

[+TotemLake]

Looks like its just me and Criminal.

 

We should be back Sunday. My wife knows where we are going and where and when to send a search party.

 

You see she had to do just that last December in this same spot!

 

Of course the rescue party came after I had dug 6 hours and still was stuck. They found me the next morning, five miles from my truck on my way out.

And another party was unwittingly right behind them.

[+Criminal]

Just popping in to say that we made it to the lake. This was, hands down, the most incredibly beautiful lake I’ve ever seen. The hike was pretty brutal, but the first glimpse of the lake through the trees made it all worth it. The fishing was spectacular; I landed three that were about 16”, and several others that were smaller. We set up our campsite surrounded on all sides by blueberries almost too sweet to describe. I’ll be posting pictures soon; I still have some recovering to do.

[+WeightMan]

Just popping in to say that we made it to the lake. This was, hands down, the most incredibly beautiful lake I’ve ever seen. The hike was pretty brutal, but the first glimpse of the lake through the trees made it all worth it. The fishing was spectacular; I landed three that were about 16”, and several others that were smaller. We set up our campsite surrounded on all sides by blueberries almost too sweet to describe. I’ll be posting pictures soon; I still have some recovering to do.

I'm glad to hear you guys had a great time and made it out safely. I'm looking forward to the pictures.

[+ironman114]

It took almost two hours to from the trailhead to where we left any semblance of a trail. We then hiked uphill

 

 

for six hours and traveling only about a half mile we reached the pass and were only a quarter mile from the lake.

 

The lake was 1/4 mile away and 500' below us. With renewed energy from finally reaching the pass after failing last time we started down to the lake.

 

We finally got our first view of the lake:

 

 

Fishing was awesome with Criminal catching and releasing a 16 inch Rainbow trout shortly after reaching the lake.

 

Sunset over the Wonder Mountain Wilderness was beautiful too:

 

 

After setting up camp in the dark and eating dinner we were fast asleep under the moonless starry knight.

 

Way too soon it was daylight and time to get up. I opted to make coffee under my tent fly.

 

 

I relaxed and enjoyed some heat before getting up.

 

 

Criminal was enjoying a cup of java while strolling through the miniature blueberry field outside my tent. I'll let him describe the taste of them. But I will say that in more than 30 years hunting and hiking the south flanks of the Olympics I have never tasted any like them!!!

 

Soon it was sunrise and time to reflect on what to do with the short time we had to enjoy this place.

 

 

 

We fished much of the morning with Criminal catching and keeping another 16" trout and releasing another.

 

Our goal was to leave by noon but we couldn't pry ourselves away till 1:00 pm.

It took 45 min to reach the pass and another 3 hours down to the trail and just more than an hour to reach our vehicle.

 

We had a good time, I got to try my new pack, tent, sleeping bag and pad and scoped out a spot for a future geocache

 

Now it is time to heal my wounds and muscles and the giant bloody blister on my big toe.

[+Criminal]

This was more than just the Hike of the Year, this was the hike of a lifetime. The unspoiled remoteness of the lake and absolute solitude it gave us will be difficult to repeat.

 

A short sermon on why I’ve always preferred the Olympics to the Cascades for hiking: The entire time we were on the trail or at the lake we didn’t hear a single airplane, not one big-rig truck engine braking down I-90, and saw only one other hiker on the established trail.

 

I didn’t take many pictures of the hike in, we’d already done it a couple weeks ago and the pictures would look pretty much the same. We got to the trailhead about two hours earlier than last time, under overcast skies, and headed out. The hike in was uneventful; Fe crossed the log over the Skokomish River again; I changed into some sandals and waded through. At the last creek before departing the trail, we ran into the only other person we’d see all weekend, an interesting man who scours the wilderness areas looking for old airplane wreckage. Afterward, we topped off our water and headed down the trail to the point where we’d head up the hillside.

 

We entered the forest 2½ miles from the trailhead and worked our way around a particularly steep section, then dropped down into a draw that would lead up to the pass through the ridge to the lake. The climb was brutal, the slope up averages 45° or more and we were both feeling the burn. When we hit the turnaround point from last time, we dug deep and pressed on. Just when we thought there couldn’t be any more up, we found there was a lot more up to go. After six hours of climbing, I thought I saw some level ground ahead. Was it the pass? Well, sort of. Topographic maps have some limitations; there is only so much detail they can show. The pass looks completely level on the map, but in fact has several steep ups and downs along the route through. I understand why this is so, but I was really looking forward to standing upright and some easier hiking for a while. We picked up the ribbon trail near the top and they seemed to lead in the proper direction so we followed them as best we could, navigating with GPS and topo regardless. At several points we saw the clear sky above a rise and expected to see the lake ahead, only to see yet another rise ahead.

 

The rest of the story is in the pictures:

[+Criminal]

When we got near the top of the hillside, the sun finally burned through. Here’s Fe climbing:

 

 

Fe arriving at the pass:

 

 

Our first and second glimpses of the lake through the trees:

 

 

[+Criminal]

Arriving at the lake we dropped our packs and started fishing. I got several strong and light hits on my line, but because I had set the drag too light, they weren’t hooked. I corrected that and landed two nice trout, took their pictures, and let them go.

 

 

 

 

We fished until dusk and had to set up camp in the dark.

 

[+Criminal]

The next morning I woke and brewed up some coffee from the reach of my sleeping bag. When it was done I wandered around the lake a bit while waiting for Fe to get up.

 

 

 

[+Criminal]

After coffee I started fishing again and caught this beautiful trout. He’d be lunch.

 

 

These others went back into the lake.

 

 

 

We spent so much time trying to get an action shot of this one that when I reached down to grab him he shook the hook off and swam away!

 

[+Criminal]

Fishing:

 

 

 

[+Criminal]

After the fish stopped biting, we explored the area. We climbed the small hill to the north to find it drops off sharply hundreds of feet to the valley below. The views were absolutely incredible. To the east we could see up the valley into the heart of the Wonder Mountain Wilderness, and to the north the high peaks and ridge that is the boundary to the National Park.

 

Fe poses on the bluff. The drop behind him is hundreds of feet almost straight down.

 

 

 

The Valley East:

 

Edited September 29, 2008 by Criminal

[+Criminal]

Looking north. If you follow the highest peak down, you can see a small pond at its foot.

 

 

Me sitting on the edge:

 

 

On the other side of the high peak is a large lake in the National Park.

 

[+Criminal]

The whole area around the lake is covered in low scrub and blueberries. The blueberries were sweet, the sweetest I’d ever had. All morning and afternoon we’d graze on them as we walked from place to place.

 

 

The water in the lake is clear and turquoise blue.

 

 

[+Criminal]

We had decided on noon to start hiking out but it was past one before we slung our packs and said goodbye to Lake 3995 in the Wonder Mountain Wilderness.

 

 

 

[+Criminal]

On the way out Fe decides to trim back one of the toenails that was bothering him. The downhill part is mean to your feet, so this was a good idea. We sat down near the flowers while he did.

 

 

 

 

The hike out was every bit as brutal and abusive to our bodies as the hike in. Hiking such a steep decline is rough on your knees and thigh muscles, not to mention what it does to your feet. We walked, slid, and at times tumbled down the hillside, following the draw down to the Skok Trail. From there it was 2½ miles back to the trailhead. Even though we went farther than last time, we both agreed that we had a lot more energy this time around. I attribute that to staying much better hydrated and that our spirits were much higher.

[+TotemLake]

Very cool! Glad to see you guys had great weather for this!

[+WeightMan]

Great pics Crim and Fe. I agree with you about hiking in the Olympics. When I was young enough to sleep on the ground, I always headed west.

[+markandsandy]

WOW!

 

I gotta drop 50 pounds and get in much better shape!

[+Jennifer&Dean]

Great posts and photos! Such a cool place to visit!!

[+SUp3rFM & Cruella]

Outstanding! Awesome pictures and great story.

 

The views and the places are impressive...

[+evergreenhiker!]

Congrats on bagging the lake and nice trout!

[+Pyewacket]

Majestic, you guys! Glad you had such an awesome (and safe) experience.

[+TotemLake]

WOW!

 

I gotta drop 50 pounds and get in much better shape!

I'm considering this as a Labor Day weekend hike for 2009 if my schedule will allow it then.

[+Criminal]

Some random thoughts from the expedition.

 

The lake sits on a shelf with a steep ridge to the west (the one we climbed over) and steep drop off to the north and east. There are no feeder streams into the lake; it seems to be filled entirely by snowmelt and rain. There is an outlet on the eastern side near where we camped, but it only provides for overflow. It was dry when we were there. On the topo it looks like a relatively simple matter of departing the lake area northerly to get to the bigger lake (with an island) just beyond the boundary in the ONP. In reality, that would be a very difficult hike.

 

We’ll probably be the last visitors to the lake for 2008 as the wildlife gate closed today. That adds five miles or so each way just to get to the trailhead.

 

Tasters Choice was the Official Coffee for the 2008 HOTY. Without discussing it, we both brought some in the handy single serving packets. While I certainly can be a coffee snob at home, on a hike over ten miles under a heavy pack, this was the stuff. Really, it tasted wonderful on a chilly morning.

 

The Jetboil was impressive as always. We set up camp in the dark by headlamps, I got my water going and 15 minutes later I was enjoying some delicious sweet and sour pork with rice (ten min to rehydrate). Fe was still fooling with his pots. I slipped into my sleeping bag, got back out, rearranged things a bit, and then got back in. Fe was waiting for his water to boil. I had my head sticking out from under my tarp gazing up at the stars when Fe bumped his pot, which then slid off the burner and dumped his almost-boiling water on the ground. Seems I recall TotemLake doing something similar last winter. Anyway, the next thing I knew I woke up to find Fe had eaten and gone to bed. The bladder overpressure light was on so I took care of that and went back to sleep. The cold mountain air on my face was wonderful and I slept deep and hard. A hundred yards or so away, a bear was apparently taking a fat dump. Sunday morning was dry; no dew on the tarp at all, so I guess I could have done without it.

 

I brought my new Big Agnes sleeping bag. This brand doesn’t use insulation on the bottom of the bag (to save weight), instead there’s a sleeve you put your sleeping pad in, and the pad provides the bottom insulation. I tried it out at home with a Pro-Light 4 pad that was gifted to me, and found the pad leaked. I returned it to REI and got the Big Agnes pad instead. It blows up three times as thick, is much more comfortable, and compresses smaller than the Thermarest. This combination is the greatest thing since sliced bread, really. I never had to do the midnight shuffle to get centered back on the pad; it stays right underneath where you want it.

 

We found some bear scat at the northern end of the lake in the morning while we were exploring the area. It was still glistening wet. We never saw any wildlife bigger than the squirrels and chipmunks in the draw though.

 

I would love to try a multi-day trans-Wonder hike starting from Lake 3995 going east through the heart of the Wilderness, then popping out on the eastern side. I just need to find someone willing to do some airdrops to resupply us. Maybe a few pack goats instead? I think it would be incredible to hike through the old growth where very few have set foot before.

 

We both agreed that we felt significantly better coming out than we did last time. I stayed much better hydrated this time around, and I was sucking down Propel Fitness Water when I could. They make it in single serving packets of powder you can mix with water. I brought a small water bottle to mix it in. We both topped off our water down on the Skok trail (we didn’t last time) and I sucked the last of my water as we were setting up at the lake, so, good timing hey?

 

I’m sure Fe will chime in with some of his thoughts as well.

 

EDIT to add: We found some signs that the lake gets a few visitors during the summer, including a few banged up pots and pans left behind. They also left a nice grill we used to cook up our lunch. There are also several trails that run around the south, east, and northern area of the lake. These might be human/game combination trails.

Edited October 1, 2008 by Criminal

[+markandsandy]

WOW!

 

I gotta drop 50 pounds and get in much better shape!

I'm considering this as a Labor Day weekend hike for 2009 if my schedule will allow it then.

 

That gives me some time.