+WatchDog2020 Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 (edited) The cache is a 6inch wide by 8 foot long piece of PVC pipe that is set vertical a foot in the ground with concrete. At ground level I drilled a 1/4 inch hole. The actual cache is a 5 ½ inch wide, water proof cylinder that has 3 inches foam on the top and is in the bottom of the 8ft PVC tube. The cache is 300 yards from a road and there is a creek 50 yards from the cache sight. Since the container in non-ferrous and has no ‘grab points’ you would need to float the cache to the top. The 6in x 8ft cylinder has a volume of about 10,800 cubic inches so after ‘corking the hole’ it will take around 45 gallons of water to float it to the top. Yes I know I’m not very nice. Also, I glued real bark to the outside of the tube so it blends in well. Edited September 6, 2008 by WatchDog2020 Quote Link to comment
4x4van Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 (edited) Hmmmm...interesting. My first thought is that I doubt many will make multiple 50 yd trips to the creek and back with a 5 gallon jug to fill the pipe. I would simply take an 8' piece of 3/4" PVC with a large lag screw attached to the end stick it down the pipe into the foam, and pull the cache up. If you reverse the container so the foam is on the bottom, a large hunk of strong double sided tape instead of the lag bolt would suffice. Just my thoughts. Not sure what the difficulty rating should be. Obviously you will need to spell out at least some of the requirements (water container of some sort) on the cache page. Again, interesting. Edited September 6, 2008 by 4x4van Quote Link to comment
+WatchDog2020 Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 (edited) Hmmmm...interesting. My first thought is that I doubt many will make multiple 50 yd trips to the creek and back with a 5 gallon jug to fill the pipe. I would simply take an 8' piece of 3/4" PVC with a large lag screw attached to the end stick it down the pipe into the foam, and pull the cache up. If you reverse the container so the foam is on the bottom, a large hunk of strong double sided tape instead of the lag bolt would suffice. Just my thoughts. Not sure what the difficulty rating should be. Obviously you will need to spell out at least some of the requirements (water container of some sort) on the cache page. Again, interesting. I didn't mention I was thinking of placing a thin piece of Aluminum on top of the foam - Edited September 6, 2008 by WatchDog2020 Quote Link to comment
4x4van Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 (edited) I didn't mention I was thinking of placing a thin piece of Aluminum on top of the foam - Again, double-sided tape (or something similarly sticky). All I know is that I would definitely look for a less labor intensive solution than hauling an empty 5-gallon jug 300 yards to the site, a full 5-gallon jug 450 yards (9 trips to the creek), an empty 5-gallon jug 450 yards (for refilling each time), and finally an empty 5-gallon jug 300 yards back to the car. Edited September 6, 2008 by 4x4van Quote Link to comment
+Waazdag Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 The cache is a 6inch wide by 8 foot long piece of PVC pipe that is set vertical a foot in the ground with concrete. At ground level I drilled a 1/4 inch hole. The actual cache is a 5 ½ inch wide, water proof cylinder that has 3 inches foam on the top and is in the bottom of the 8ft PVC tube. The cache is 300 yards from a road and there is a creek 50 yards from the cache sight. Since the container in non-ferrous and has no ‘grab points’ you would need to float the cache to the top. The 6in x 8ft cylinder has a volume of about 10,800 cubic inches so after ‘corking the hole’ it will take around 45 gallons of water to float it to the top. Yes I know I’m not very nice. Also, I glued real bark to the outside of the tube so it blends in well. So the top of the pipe is 7 ft off the ground... better suggest a step stool as well so people can actually pour a 5 gallon pail into the pipe... Quote Link to comment
+webscouter. Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Mmmmmm, hacksaw. Quote Link to comment
+uxorious Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Hate to get too picky about it, but it sounds like the cache wouldn't fit the guidelines anyway. You would need to dig a hole to put the cache in place. Quote Link to comment
+WatchDog2020 Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 Hate to get too picky about it, but it sounds like the cache wouldn't fit the guidelines anyway. You would need to dig a hole to put the cache in place. Hummmm "Caches that are buried. If a shovel, trowel or other "pointy" object is used to dig, whether in order to hide or to find the cache, then it is not appropriate. " The shovel is to place the outer tube, not the cache. Since the actual cache is concealed in the tube I believe it would be ok. No different then a magnetic concealed on a guardrail or a light pole skirt that was placed using a backhoe. Quote Link to comment
Motorcycle_Mama Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 I'm thinking that if you placed the outer tube into the ground, the cache would not be published here. If the outer tube is something that already exists on the site, then it might be okay. Quote Link to comment
+va griz Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 You would have to rate the difficulty pretty high. Lots of people can't list 3 or 5 gallons of water over their head even once. While I realize not all caches are for all people, they should know of the phyisical requirements before they head out. Quote Link to comment
stryder717 Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Hate to get too picky about it, but it sounds like the cache wouldn't fit the guidelines anyway. You would need to dig a hole to put the cache in place. Hummmm "Caches that are buried. If a shovel, trowel or other "pointy" object is used to dig, whether in order to hide or to find the cache, then it is not appropriate. " The shovel is to place the outer tube, not the cache. Since the actual cache is concealed in the tube I believe it would be ok. No different then a magnetic concealed on a guardrail or a light pole skirt that was placed using a backhoe. i think people over analyze this "rule" way too much. Quote Link to comment
+niraD Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 This sounds like a good candidate for a 5-star rating, because it requires specialized equipment. Quote Link to comment
+OzzieSan Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Hate to get too picky about it, but it sounds like the cache wouldn't fit the guidelines anyway. You would need to dig a hole to put the cache in place. Hummmm "Caches that are buried. If a shovel, trowel or other "pointy" object is used to dig, whether in order to hide or to find the cache, then it is not appropriate. " The shovel is to place the outer tube, not the cache. Since the actual cache is concealed in the tube I believe it would be ok. No different then a magnetic concealed on a guardrail or a light pole skirt that was placed using a backhoe. So you own the property where this cache will be placed? Or you at least have permission to dig the hole for the "outer tube"? Quote Link to comment
+OzzieSan Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Hate to get too picky about it, but it sounds like the cache wouldn't fit the guidelines anyway. You would need to dig a hole to put the cache in place. Hummmm "Caches that are buried. If a shovel, trowel or other "pointy" object is used to dig, whether in order to hide or to find the cache, then it is not appropriate. " The shovel is to place the outer tube, not the cache. Since the actual cache is concealed in the tube I believe it would be ok. No different then a magnetic concealed on a guardrail or a light pole skirt that was placed using a backhoe. i think people over analyze this "rule" way too much. Hows that? Looks like there will be digging involved to "hide" the cache... Quote Link to comment
+WatchDog2020 Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 Does it make a difference if I placed the end in an old woodchuck hole and then filled the hole with concrete? Is a hole that was pre-existing, and you don’t even have a ‘pointy object’ and the actual cache is well above ground change things Quote Link to comment
+briansnat Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Hate to get too picky about it, but it sounds like the cache wouldn't fit the guidelines anyway. You would need to dig a hole to put the cache in place. Hummmm "Caches that are buried. If a shovel, trowel or other "pointy" object is used to dig, whether in order to hide or to find the cache, then it is not appropriate. " The shovel is to place the outer tube, not the cache. Since the actual cache is concealed in the tube I believe it would be ok. No different then a magnetic concealed on a guardrail or a light pole skirt that was placed using a backhoe. i think people over analyze this "rule" way too much. They don't analyze it enough. The cache as explained by the OP would certainly be in violation of the guidelines and would not be listed. If he poured the concrete to set the pipe, that's a guideline violation. If the pipe was already there set in concrete, but he drilled a hole in it, that's a guideline violation. This cache will not be listed as is. Quote Link to comment
+briansnat Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Does it make a difference if I placed the end in an old woodchuck hole and then filled the hole with concrete? Is a hole that was pre-existing, and you don’t even have a ‘pointy object’ and the actual cache is well above ground change things If it's your property you can do what you want. If it's someone else's land or public land, just run the part about pouring concrete by the owner or land manager to see how he feels about it. Quote Link to comment
+NYPaddleCacher Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 The cache is a 6inch wide by 8 foot long piece of PVC pipe that is set vertical a foot in the ground with concrete. At ground level I drilled a 1/4 inch hole. The actual cache is a 5 ½ inch wide, water proof cylinder that has 3 inches foam on the top and is in the bottom of the 8ft PVC tube. The cache is 300 yards from a road and there is a creek 50 yards from the cache sight. Since the container in non-ferrous and has no ‘grab points’ you would need to float the cache to the top. The 6in x 8ft cylinder has a volume of about 10,800 cubic inches so after ‘corking the hole’ it will take around 45 gallons of water to float it to the top. Yes I know I’m not very nice. Also, I glued real bark to the outside of the tube so it blends in well. If you do manage to get this published I'll have to keep an eye out for it since you're not that far from me. Let's see, I've got a hand operated pump (pretty much required gear for a sea kayaker) and about 150' of hose, and a 5 gallon bucket. Seems like I could probably save a few trips to the creek. Have you actually tried filling the pipe all the way up to see if corking the hole will actually handle he water pressure. It would be *really* not nice to discover that putting about 40 gallons in the pipe would cause a cork to blow out. It would probably be not nice enough to make a local cacher inclined to place a bunch of "RxR" level difficulty caches about 20 miles SW of Ithaca....wait...aren't you the one that said they had 20 unhidden nano caches? Quote Link to comment
southpawaz Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 I bet it wouldn't take long for the pipe to get filled with rocks. Quote Link to comment
+SwampYankee Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Whats the game plan in the winter when the water freezes in the PVC pipe and cracks? Interesting idea for sure but myself with 2 herniated disc, it leaves me out. Most out there are looking for fun, rather than a job for the day. Then again, my battery operated drill, small pump attached,150 feet of garden hose and wala cache pops to surface. OK, I'm in....... SwampYankee The cache is a 6inch wide by 8 foot long piece of PVC pipe that is set vertical a foot in the ground with concrete. At ground level I drilled a 1/4 inch hole. The actual cache is a 5 ½ inch wide, water proof cylinder that has 3 inches foam on the top and is in the bottom of the 8ft PVC tube. The cache is 300 yards from a road and there is a creek 50 yards from the cache sight. Since the container in non-ferrous and has no ‘grab points’ you would need to float the cache to the top. The 6in x 8ft cylinder has a volume of about 10,800 cubic inches so after ‘corking the hole’ it will take around 45 gallons of water to float it to the top. Yes I know I’m not very nice. Also, I glued real bark to the outside of the tube so it blends in well. Quote Link to comment
+TrailGators Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 The cache is a 6inch wide by 8 foot long piece of PVC pipe that is set vertical a foot in the ground with concrete. At ground level I drilled a 1/4 inch hole. The actual cache is a 5 ½ inch wide, water proof cylinder that has 3 inches foam on the top and is in the bottom of the 8ft PVC tube. The cache is 300 yards from a road and there is a creek 50 yards from the cache sight. Since the container in non-ferrous and has no 'grab points' you would need to float the cache to the top. The 6in x 8ft cylinder has a volume of about 10,800 cubic inches so after 'corking the hole' it will take around 45 gallons of water to float it to the top. Yes I know I'm not very nice. Also, I glued real bark to the outside of the tube so it blends in well. I think your math is off. 45 gallons sounded like too much water for a 8' by 6" wide cylinder to me. This is what I get: Volume = (3")(3")(3.14)(96") = 2713 in3 (2713 in3)(1gal/231in3) = 11.74gal. The creek is 50 yards away so it would take 3 trips with a fairly full 5 gal bucket. Quote Link to comment
+UncleJimbo Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 I would suggest a 5 star difficulty rating. Let us know how log it takes before someone saws the pipe off to get to the cache. Quote Link to comment
Skippermark Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) I'd say it's a 5 star because folks are going to need special equipment, a bucket and a step ladder. Edited September 7, 2008 by Skippermark Quote Link to comment
Skippermark Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) This is what I get: Volume = (3")(3")(3.14)(96") = 2713 in3 (2713 in3)(1gal/231in3) = 11.74gal. That's what I got too. We have found a few caches along these lines and really enjoyed them. They were all hidden in pre-existing poles and the challenge was to get the cache out before the water soaked back into the ground as we made the required 2 or 3 trips to the nearby stream. Edited September 7, 2008 by Skippermark Quote Link to comment
+StarBrand Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Hate to get too picky about it, but it sounds like the cache wouldn't fit the guidelines anyway. You would need to dig a hole to put the cache in place. Hummmm "Caches that are buried. If a shovel, trowel or other "pointy" object is used to dig, whether in order to hide or to find the cache, then it is not appropriate. " The shovel is to place the outer tube, not the cache. Since the actual cache is concealed in the tube I believe it would be ok. No different then a magnetic concealed on a guardrail or a light pole skirt that was placed using a backhoe. i think people over analyze this "rule" way too much. They don't analyze it enough. The cache as explained by the OP would certainly be in violation of the guidelines and would not be listed. If he poured the concrete to set the pipe, that's a guideline violation. If the pipe was already there set in concrete, but he drilled a hole in it, that's a guideline violation. This cache will not be listed as is. Well put Brian. Quote Link to comment
+mm_dancer Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 sounds like an interesting idea, i personally would wait and go after a really heavy storm, that way nature could do some of the work for me tehe! Quote Link to comment
+Seasoned Warrior Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 sounds like an interesting idea, i personally would wait and go after a really heavy storm, that way nature could do some of the work for me tehe! But, how would nature plug the hole? Quote Link to comment
+NYPaddleCacher Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 sounds like an interesting idea, i personally would wait and go after a really heavy storm, that way nature could do some of the work for me tehe! But, how would nature plug the hole? Duck tape. Quote Link to comment
+sheppardnik Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) But, how would nature plug the hole? Duck tape. BWAHAhahahaha!!! Edited September 7, 2008 by sheppardnik Quote Link to comment
+NotThePainter Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Think outside the box. compressed air (yeah yeah yeah, I can think of tons of reasons why that wouldn't work, but man, seeing the cache sail through the air... priceless) Quote Link to comment
+Bad_CRC Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 I'd imagine that with the slash and burn techniques of many cachers, it would only be a couple weeks before someone just ripped the thing out of the ground or snapped it off. path of least resistance. Quote Link to comment
+water_mad Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Round my area we have a number of extreme caches. Either with a difficulty or a terrain raiting of 5. I would give it 5 for difficulty and maybe a 2 or 3 for terrain as you have to cover a lot of it. I have also found out that the less info you put about a cache in the reviewers notes the less questions they ask and the more likely it is to be published. Good luck and i wish more people would be more imaganitive about their placements Quote Link to comment
+NYPaddleCacher Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 I have also found out that the less info you put about a cache in the reviewers notes the less questions they ask and the more likely it is to be published. Are you suggesting that one should withhold information about a cache that might violate guidelines so that it can get published? Suppose the land owner/manager discovers the cache and writes to Groundspeak and complains. Maybe, that land manager might ask the cache be removed, or even that all caches placed on their land be removed as well. At the very least, the cache reviewer now knows that this cacher has intentionally withheld information and is going to pay a lot more attention to future cache submissions. Seems like a bad idea all around. Quote Link to comment
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