Homemade Walking Stick - Carbide Tip?

[Matt7591]

All this talk about walking sticks has me thinking about making one. I've fashioned many along the way on hikes before (always fallen branches) but would like to make a more custom one. I have a Leki but a homebrew would be fun.

 

I'm wondering about the tip. I see many people use rubber cane tips, but is there a way to get a carbide tip? Anyone have any suggestions? I have seen some online vendors which sell wood sticks which have a carbide tip which appears to be a hammer on type.

 

Any "tips" would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Matt

[+Too Tall John]

Try Hike America.

SPIKE FERRULE TIPS:

$2.75 each 1" diameter

7/8" diameter

3/4" diameter

[+Star*Hopper]

http://www10.dealtime.com/xPF-Leki-Univers...arbide-Flex-Tip

 

~*

[+tarbal]

I have made many sticks using a copper cap from the hardware store. You find one slightly smallter than your sticks so you can carve the end to fit. Make sure you drill a small hole in the center before you pound it on. After you have the copper cap on use a tempered double headed masonry nail and pound it into the end. The copper adds a nice look to your stick as well as keeps it from flaring. The double headed nail will lasts for years. When you finally wear the first head off the nail, just pull out and pound another in.

 

tarbaL

[AZcachemeister]

I don't think you really need a carbide tip!

Here is what I do.

 

Depending on the size of your stick, go to your local plumbing supply/hardware store and get a 1/2" or 3/4" copper Female adapter, and a 1/4" or 5/16" x 2 1/2" stainless steel hex head lag screw.

 

Using files, rasps and implements of destruction, carve the very tip of your stick down until it will fit inside the straight bore of the adapter that is opposite the threaded end. Create a section that is about as long as the un-threaded part of the copper adapter.

 

Taper the section of your stick above this part to a profile that will be a bit bigger than the inside bore of the threaded end. Remember, the threaded part of the copper adapter is tapered, that is, it's a bit wider at the top end than it is down inside at the 'bottom'.

 

Clamp your stick in a vise, or get some friends with strong hands to hold it for you while you screw the copper fitting onto the stick. You might want to use some Gorilla glue (or something like it) here for good measure. If you have access to a pipe threader, you could use it to pre-cut the threads. Otherwise, you will need to tighten it up, and loosen it, screw it on a bit tighter and loosen it, etc. so the copper can cut threads into the wood.

 

Once the copper adapter is firmly screwed on, cut off any wood sticking out beyond the metal. If the wood doesn't stick out, so much the better.

 

Now, drill a pilot hole of the appropriate size for your lag screw into the center of the wood at the now copper-clad end. Screw in the lag screw. Hopefully you have a bench grinder, but you can now file or grind the head of the screw to a more useful rounded tip.

 

For good measure to keep the copper on, I pour some glue down into the space between the wood and the copper.

 

[rogheff]

I've used a wide variety of tips on my canes, shilellaghs and walking sticks. I have used metal tipsin the past. They're great for digging into the ground, but are terrible on rocks or concrete.

 

Honestly, the very best tip that I have found is a medical grade cane tip. These are more flexible and rugged than the tips you can get at the hardware store. I get mine from a Pharmacist friend.

 

I've taken my personal geoshilellagh on all terrains from asphalt to boulders, climbing up steep gravel and soil slopes to steadying myself on ice. It has this heavy grade tip.

[rogheff]

That being said, you could try using the spikes manufactored for golf shoes.

[+GRANPA ALEX]

I have made at least a dozen 'geo-sticks' that are ultra light, strong and perfect for the game of poking, raking and sticking into small tight 'snake & spider' holes on the hunt. It is even strong enough to weed whack, if needed.

 

I get the sticks from a golf shop repair person, the metal ones, after the head is broken off. I drill & screw a small bolt that has a narrow flange into the bottom end. The flange is only 1/32" or so but it rakes well. I can really lean on the strong stick when climbing or descending and it is so light, it is like no extra bother at all.

[+Allanon]

That being said, you could try using the spikes manufactored for golf shoes.

I'm not sure anyone makes metal spikes anymore...everyone has gone to plastic.

[rogheff]

That being said, you could try using the spikes manufactored for golf shoes.

I'm not sure anyone makes metal spikes anymore...everyone has gone to plastic.

 

You and I don't shop at the same stores LOL. Try the thrift stores. You'll find dozens of metal spiked golf shoes.

[cliff_hanger]

Any "tips" would be appreciated.

 

I definitely would NOT use carbide. While very hard, it's not very tough and tends to shatter with impact.

 

Glass is hard, but not tough

Leather is tough, but not hard.

A cold chisel is hard AND tough

Got it?

 

A replaceable metal tip (even unhardened steel) would be fine. When it wears, just pop in a new one. Things that are too hard (even case hardened steel) feel like they "skate" over rock

[+dew cache]

All this talk about walking sticks has me thinking about making one. I've fashioned many along the way on hikes before (always fallen branches) but would like to make a more custom one. I have a Leki but a homebrew would be fun.

 

I'm wondering about the tip. I see many people use rubber cane tips, but is there a way to get a carbide tip? Anyone have any suggestions? I have seen some online vendors which sell wood sticks which have a carbide tip which appears to be a hammer on type.

 

Any "tips" would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Matt

 

I usually don't put a tip on my walking sticks I just let them wear down which takes many years, when I have a real nice one that I have carved and finished I take a washer just a little smaller than the stick and drill a pilot hole in the bottom of the stick and screw in a hex wood bolt just make sure your pilot hole is big enough or you can split the wook. But I only use mine on fairly flat ground we don't have a lot of mountains in Texas or ice for that matter.

I think I am going to start using bamboo for all my walking sticks as it is real light and strong, I have been looking for an area that I can get some to start drying it when it wears out I will just toss it in the trash. I know I found a cache in a small bamboo forrest last year but I can not find it again.

[Matt7591]

Thanks all, some good ideas on here.

[stryder717]

on my hiking stick i have the rubber bottom grip off a crutch. it has been on there about 8 years and is just now starting to dry rot.

[+Star*Hopper]

I don't think you really need a carbide tip!

Here is what I do.

...

 

^^^^^^^^^^

Dang it, AZ!! This is the 4th or 5th time I've come back to this thing, & every time nixed it before pulling the trigger. But this time I'm goin' on thru!

 

I'm sure that's prolly highly functional....does the job it's intended to....& battleship anchor-chain durable.

But GAWDaMIGHTY it is just plain butt-ugly!!

 

~*

[AZcachemeister]

Guilty on all counts!

I had some real nice butterflies and hummingbirds painted on it, but they eventually wore off in the mud/sand/gravel.

[+Guinness70]

Try Hike America.

SPIKE FERRULE TIPS:

$2.75 each 1" diameter

7/8" diameter

3/4" diameter

that better not pierce those tupperwares i swiped from my wife!