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You Oregon users:

 

What procedure do you follow when going after a cache? Do you use the "GeoCaching" profile or the "Automotive" profile?

 

If you use the "GeoCaching" profile, if you navigate to the cache and have Nav maps installed, once you get to the cache, do you switch to "Recalculate Offroad" or do you use the "Compass" screen?

 

Just trying to figure out what works best for other people...

I get mixed results sometimes.

 

Thanks for your replies!

 

Jim

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I just got my Colorado 400t about six months ago. And it seems like it still has quiat a few bugs. So with the Oregon 400T coming out. Does that mean Garmin will stop fixing the bugs and updating the Colorado 400T? :(

 

No, According to Garmin, there are 2 different design teams working on the Colorado and the Oregon (which would explain why the GeoCaching screen looks different).

 

They even still update firmware for the 60CSx!

 

Is the Oregon worth an upgrade from the Colorado? I use my gps mostly for backpacking.

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Is the Oregon worth an upgrade from the Colorado? I use my gps mostly for backpacking.

 

If you got it at REI, sure! :(

 

Otherwise, I imagine you'll pay dearly for it.

 

Money issues aside, yes, it's a superior device, IMHO.

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They are different, but one is not "better" than the other. It is a personal choice as to which you will like more.

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They are different, but one is not "better" than the other. It is a personal choice as to which you will like more.

 

I can only think of three reasons why I would not buy an Oregon over Colorado

 

1) GPS/antenna performance is the biggest. To me the CO and OR are equally bad right now, although for different reasons. The big drift issue with the CO might be a software fix, and if so, the CO would have the edge over the OR unless Garmin releases improvements for the OR. Either way I'm not sure for backpacking it would make any difference, both hold lock well, acquire fast (OR is faster) and get you to within 50'.

 

2) Screen brightness. The CO is marginally better but I turn off relief shading and crank up the backlight on both if I'm using them during the day so it really doesn't matter to me. Minor advantage for the CO, but not enough to sway a buying decision.

 

3) Winter/cold screen performance. I still haven't heard any reports of use in extreme cold. Works fine in heavy rain and w/gloves on -- we'll have to see how it does in -20F.

 

Aside from these three the OR is a clear winner over the CO. The user interface is easier to use, text entry is fast, the smaller is smaller and lighter, track management is superior, it has a lanyard attachment, battery life is better, boot time is about half the CO's, the case design feels more durable and waterproof, and many other small software improvements which may or may not make it to the CO.

 

If I had $600 to spend on a backpacking unit the OR would be an easy choice.

 

GO$Rs

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...

Aside from these three the OR is a clear winner over the CO. The user interface is easier to use, text entry is fast, the smaller is smaller and lighter, track management is superior, it has a lanyard attachment, battery life is better, boot time is about half the CO's, the case design feels more durable and waterproof, and many other small software improvements which may or may not make it to the CO.

 

If I had $600 to spend on a backpacking unit the OR would be an easy choice.

 

GO$Rs

I have to admit that I was pretty skeptical of the touch screen interface at first. However once I started using my Oregon 400t I was amazed at the data entry and navigating. The Colorado is easy to move around as well so that's a matter of preference I imagine, but to any kind of text entry it's the Oregon all the way.

 

Selecting a WP/cache on-screen is tougher on the Oregon though, much easier on the Colorado.

 

edit : I am still interested in seeing how the Oregon performs in the winter with thick gloves

Edited by nicolo

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...

Aside from these three the OR is a clear winner over the CO. The user interface is easier to use, text entry is fast, the smaller is smaller and lighter, track management is superior, it has a lanyard attachment, battery life is better, boot time is about half the CO's, the case design feels more durable and waterproof, and many other small software improvements which may or may not make it to the CO.

 

If I had $600 to spend on a backpacking unit the OR would be an easy choice.

 

GO$Rs

I have to admit that I was pretty skeptical of the touch screen interface at first. However once I started using my Oregon 400t I was amazed at the data entry and navigating. The Colorado is easy to move around as well so that's a matter of preference I imagine, but to any kind of text entry it's the Oregon all the way.

 

Selecting a WP/cache on-screen is tougher on the Oregon though, much easier on the Colorado.

 

edit : I am still interested in seeing how the Oregon performs in the winter with thick gloves

 

I really don't see any major difference. Snice I all ready have the Colorado. I might wait until Garmin comes out with the new gps after the Oregon. What is the time spane between models?

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Twice this week I've seen some strange behavior on the Oregon 400t:

 

1. Earlier this week, the Oregon was showing 2 battery bars, and it started acting a bit wacky: it stopped tracking my location on the Map page, and my GPS coordinates remained fixed (i.e. as if the unit thought I was no longer moving, even though I was moving). I attributed it to weak batteries, so I replaced them with freshly charged PowerEx 2700's and all was well.

 

2. Today, I had freshly charged PowerEx 2700's and then unit was on for about 30 minutes when the same freaking thing happened! Everything was working on the Oregon (I could go to Map, or Satellite, etc...), but the satellite page showed my coordinates fixed at a location over 3700 feet away (where I had been), and the Map page was not updating or drawing a tracklog as I moved. I powered it off, and then back on, and it correctly found my current location, and all was well after that.

 

Hmmm... very strange. The 60CSx I had with me worked perfectly. I might do a master reset on the Oregon.

 

---------------

 

Update regarding Oregon accuracy with respect to tracklogs:

 

1. We all know that the Oregon usually shows a higher EPE compared to other units (like the 60CSx) [not that your supposed to compare EPE's, but I must have a mental disorder since I can't help from comparing them].

 

2. We all know that the 60CSx gets a WAAS lock much much much faster than the Oregon; at times I've seen the 60CSx get WAAS, whereas the Oregon, try as it might, could not get a lock on satellites #48 or #51.

 

Some things I've discovered (not scientific):

 

1. I'll turn on both the 60CSx and Oregon and wait (and wait and wait - because of the Oregon) for them to show WAAS. As I hike, the 60CSx will drop WAAS, yet the Oregon will usually continue to show it depending upon conditions. In fact, it seems that the Oregon is able to "hold" onto WAAS much better than the 60CSx.

 

Now the "extended WAAS lock" behavior on the Oregon could be explained away: maybe the Oregon is as lax about saying it has lost WAAS, as it is in achieving WAAS in the first place. I don't know. But if the Oregon WAAS display is correct, then I can only conclude that it can generally hold WAAS better than the 60CSx.

 

2. I now have a series of tracks in different mountainous/forested conditions where, for the most part, the 60CSx and the Oregon perform equally well compared to each other. In a few instances, the Oregon or 60CSx may wander a bit off course, but that is usually only momentary.

 

In my experience, the trick to getting a good tracklog on the Oregon is to change the default tracklog setting from "auto" to "time" and "10 seconds" (or less). With that said, I have gotten a few good tracklogs with the Oregon in "auto", but I seem to get consistently good tracklogs if I configure a specific time period <= 10 seconds.

 

To put it another way: I don't trust the "auto" tracklog mode on the Oregon.

 

I'm going to play with the Oregon & 60CSx more this weekend, but at this point, I think I will keep the Oregon.

 

J

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Today, I was leaving a client's office and my PDA/Cellphone went off alerting me to 5 new caches posting. It is a series and is about 8 miles from where I was. I punched in the coords on all five and went after them. I SWEPT the series and got ALL FIVE FTF's. My Oregon went right to each one!!! Groud Zero WAS where I found the cache.

 

I even got the FTF on 3 of the 5 right under someone else's noses! They all were using 60CSx's and I had the only Oregon! On 1 of the caches, 4 people were already looking!!!

 

I like this thing better and better every day!

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Here are a couple of screenshots from an Oregon 300 and Colorado 300. I just got the Oregon today. I've had the Colorado for a while. I left both receivers outside for an hour with a clear view of the sky.

 

I'm pretty happy with the accuracy. Longitude is the same. Lattiude differs on only the last digit. That's .001 of a degree.

 

(It's complaining that tags are not allowed, so I'm posting the full URL. Sorry)

 

Oregon:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3174/276483...a627b5e.jpg?v=0

 

Colorado:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3120/276398...9e002ee.jpg?v=0

 

One other thing. It's probably due to the batteries (Colorado had 2000mAh and Oregon had 2750's), but I found the display on the Oregon much brighter. I will try again later with the same batteries.

 

I'm happy with the Oregon performance so far. I'm going camping this weekend. If it works well, the Colorado is going back to REI.

 

Thanks everybody for all the info.

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I would like to ask this again from Oregon users:

 

What procedure do you follow when going after a cache? Do you use the "GeoCaching" profile or the "Automotive" profile?

 

If you use the "GeoCaching" profile, if you navigate to the cache and have Nav maps installed, once you get to the cache, do you switch to "Recalculate Offroad" or do you use the "Compass" screen?

 

Just trying to figure out what works best for other people...

I get mixed results sometimes.

 

Thanks for your replies!

 

Jim

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I would like to ask this again from Oregon users:

 

What procedure do you follow when going after a cache? Do you use the "GeoCaching" profile or the "Automotive" profile?

 

If you use the "GeoCaching" profile, if you navigate to the cache and have Nav maps installed, once you get to the cache, do you switch to "Recalculate Offroad" or do you use the "Compass" screen?

 

Just trying to figure out what works best for other people...

I get mixed results sometimes.

 

Thanks for your replies!

 

Jim

 

I use neither profile. Mine is in Recreational profile all the time. I just use the Geocaching mode to find a geocache, and then use the map and compass screen to get there.

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Yeah I've noticed some of the streets in my Oregon 400T are off also, very disappointing for a $600 device.

 

I just installed the NA maps last night, yes it's true, the topo maps will show you 'near' your house, add in the NA maps and upload your state to your device and it will place you spot on.

 

plus some new nifty features are added specifically for navigation in a car. Not too shabby. but it should come preloaded for 600.00 device. or just preload and make it a 700.00 device.

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I would like to ask this again from Oregon users:

 

What procedure do you follow when going after a cache? Do you use the "GeoCaching" profile or the "Automotive" profile?

 

If you use the "GeoCaching" profile, if you navigate to the cache and have Nav maps installed, once you get to the cache, do you switch to "Recalculate Offroad" or do you use the "Compass" screen?

 

Just trying to figure out what works best for other people...

I get mixed results sometimes.

 

Thanks for your replies!

 

Jim

 

I use Automotive until I get to parking and then I switch to one of two Geocaching/Recreation profiles. I have one that uses a white background and turns off DEM shading so that I can see it better under bright light easier. If the sun isn't bright I switch to a profile that had DEM turned on and used one of the default backgrounds.

 

If you have both City Nav and Topo this is the easiest way to switch the routing mode, map view and the maps all at once.

 

Same setup on my Colorado.

 

GO$Rs

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Twice this week I've seen some strange behavior on the Oregon 400t:

 

1. Earlier this week, the Oregon was showing 2 battery bars, and it started acting a bit wacky: it stopped tracking my location on the Map page, and my GPS coordinates remained fixed (i.e. as if the unit thought I was no longer moving, even though I was moving). I attributed it to weak batteries, so I replaced them with freshly charged PowerEx 2700's and all was well.

 

2. Today, I had freshly charged PowerEx 2700's and then unit was on for about 30 minutes when the same freaking thing happened! Everything was working on the Oregon (I could go to Map, or Satellite, etc...), but the satellite page showed my coordinates fixed at a location over 3700 feet away (where I had been), and the Map page was not updating or drawing a tracklog as I moved. I powered it off, and then back on, and it correctly found my current location, and all was well after that.

 

It looks like my Oregon 400t has developed a strange fault...

 

Earlier this week, I had the problem described above.

 

Today, I've hit a brand new problem which is pretty awful: about 50-60% of the time after powering the unit on, it will work fine for about 5 or 10 minutes, but thereafter the touch screen / button user interfaces will fail to be (as) responsive to user input.

 

For example, if I am on the satellite page and press the "x" to exit, the "x" will change color (i.e. I touched it), but the unit will freeze and it will take a very long time (20+ seconds) to return to the previous screen, and all operations are extremely sluggish from that point forward. The other scenario is that the unit becomes entirely non-responsive and will not react to anything (touch or single power-button presses); the only things that work are to press and hold the power button (it will eventually power off), or pull the batteries.

 

Once the unit is power cycled, it reboots just fine: the user interface is once again responsive and everything works as expected. But, at least tonight, I only have to wait 5 or 10 minutes to (usually about 50-60% of the time) see the new problem manifest itself.

 

Things I've done to try to resolve the new problem:

  • Performed a master reset (press left-hand upper screen while power on) and then left it outside for 40 minutes to rebuild its almanac
  • Switched to a different set of freshly charged PowerEx 2700 batteries.
  • Switched to brand new lithium batteries (and reconfigured the battery type to lithium)
  • Used Webupdater to re-install the software (several times)
  • Performed a "restore defaults to factory settings" on the Setup/Reset screen
  • Recalibrated the touch screen

The new problem showed up twice while I was out in the field today, and many more times tonight since I am trying to figure out the necessary conditions to cause it to fail. So far, it seems the only necessary condition is to power the unit on and wait -- the odds are good that the problem will appear.

 

I haven't seen this new problem before today. Not good.... maybe I've been using it too much and it wants a day off; I'll see how it behaves tomorrow.

 

Anyone else seen similar behavior?

 

j

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Twice this week I've seen some strange behavior on the Oregon 400t:

 

1. Earlier this week, the Oregon was showing 2 battery bars, and it started acting a bit wacky: it stopped tracking my location on the Map page, and my GPS coordinates remained fixed (i.e. as if the unit thought I was no longer moving, even though I was moving). I attributed it to weak batteries, so I replaced them with freshly charged PowerEx 2700's and all was well.

 

2. Today, I had freshly charged PowerEx 2700's and then unit was on for about 30 minutes when the same freaking thing happened! Everything was working on the Oregon (I could go to Map, or Satellite, etc...), but the satellite page showed my coordinates fixed at a location over 3700 feet away (where I had been), and the Map page was not updating or drawing a tracklog as I moved. I powered it off, and then back on, and it correctly found my current location, and all was well after that.

 

It looks like my Oregon 400t has developed a strange fault...

 

Earlier this week, I had the problem described above.

 

Today, I've hit a brand new problem which is pretty awful: about 50-60% of the time after powering the unit on, it will work fine for about 5 or 10 minutes, but thereafter the touch screen / button user interfaces will fail to be (as) responsive to user input.

 

For example, if I am on the satellite page and press the "x" to exit, the "x" will change color (i.e. I touched it), but the unit will freeze and it will take a very long time (20+ seconds) to return to the previous screen, and all operations are extremely sluggish from that point forward. The other scenario is that the unit becomes entirely non-responsive and will not react to anything (touch or single power-button presses); the only things that work are to press and hold the power button (it will eventually power off), or pull the batteries.

 

Once the unit is power cycled, it reboots just fine: the user interface is once again responsive and everything works as expected. But, at least tonight, I only have to wait 5 or 10 minutes to (usually about 50-60% of the time) see the new problem manifest itself.

 

Things I've done to try to resolve the new problem:

  • Performed a master reset (press left-hand upper screen while power on) and then left it outside for 40 minutes to rebuild its almanac
  • Switched to a different set of freshly charged PowerEx 2700 batteries.
  • Switched to brand new lithium batteries (and reconfigured the battery type to lithium)
  • Used Webupdater to re-install the software (several times)
  • Performed a "restore defaults to factory settings" on the Setup/Reset screen
  • Recalibrated the touch screen

The new problem showed up twice while I was out in the field today, and many more times tonight since I am trying to figure out the necessary conditions to cause it to fail. So far, it seems the only necessary condition is to power the unit on and wait -- the odds are good that the problem will appear.

 

I haven't seen this new problem before today. Not good.... maybe I've been using it too much and it wants a day off; I'll see how it behaves tomorrow.

 

Anyone else seen similar behavior?

 

j

 

Yuck. By any chance are you getting Memory Full, Database Errors, or Route Calculation Errors? I'm seeing more and more reports of this and saw it myself last night. I wonder if what you are seeing is a manifestation of a similar memory leak or corruption. Mine seemed to clear up after I removed all of the gpx files on the unit, rebooted clean and then reloaded.

 

GO$Rs

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I took a look at the information on this site a few days ago but missed the pictures of the internals of the Oregon.

 

The photos confirm that the Oregon uses the STMicro Cartesio GPS, same as the Nuvi 2x5 series -- they also show the antenna mounted on the PCB -- Garmin's calling this a ceramic antenna I guess.

 

GO$rS

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The photos confirm that the Oregon uses the STMicro Cartesio GPS, same as the Nuvi 2x5 series -- they also show the antenna mounted on the PCB -- Garmin's calling this a ceramic antenna I guess.

 

Oregon MB

Oregon400t_005.jpg

 

Nuvi 255 MB. Can anyone point out the Nuvi antenna? From experience it works extremely well.

Main_board_forum.jpg

 

Which all begs the question: Why does the Oregon cost 2.5 times as much as a Nuvi 205W?

 

Each has features the other lacks, by example:

 

Nuvi has that Oregon lacks:

- Rechargeable battery

- Voice quality speaker

- Much larger display

 

Oregon has that Nuvi lacks:

- Altimeter/Compass chip

- Replaceable battery holder, no batteries

- Waterproof case

 

To me these features are a wash from a cost standpoint, but at retail . . .

 

My conclusion, Garmin dominates the handheld market and can charge whatever it likes.

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After playing some time with an Oregon in a store I have some questions about doing multicaches with an Oregon:

 

- is there a fast way to enter an new WP or alter an existing one and hit the "go to" button? With the CSx it was hit find-button twice, choose WP, alter the coördinates to the ones you've just found and hit the go-to in the same screen. In the oregon I didn't find that way of working: first I had to pick a WP in the WP-manager, change the coördinates, leave the screen, in the menu, pick the "go-to" button, there pick the "WP-button", select one and finally press "go"... Seems rather many steps in comparison with a CSx?

 

- changing the coordinates of an WP: first you have a screen with arrows to go left or right in an coordinate and when you hit the "v" you get the numeric keys and you can change the numbers of the coördinates BUT, when you get to the letter "W" or "E" you have to change your keys to letters, typ the 'W' or 'E' again and change back to numbers to alter the rest of the coordinates. Or is there a way to "skip" the W or E when you have the number-keys on your screen? It seems rather stupid to always have to enter the W or E back again. Or to save the coördinate after finishing the N-coördinate, recall it, use the arrows to go to the W or E coordinatenumbers and hit the "v" back to get the numberkeys?

The " ° " and the " . " are locked, so can't you lock the W or E somehow to avoid to must typing it in everytime?

 

- Can you select an WP when you are in the mapscreen and alter the coordinates? Just like the CSx does?

 

These options I use a lot while doing multicaches, so every answer is more then welcome about the questions above.

 

Thanks,

 

Erik

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Why does the Oregon cost as much as a decent notebook computer when it probably costs the same as a nuvi?

 

Charge what the market will pay... I'm a sucker, and there are plenty more like me out there.

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Yuck. By any chance are you getting Memory Full, Database Errors, or Route Calculation Errors? I'm seeing more and more reports of this and saw it myself last night. I wonder if what you are seeing is a manifestation of a similar memory leak or corruption. Mine seemed to clear up after I removed all of the gpx files on the unit, rebooted clean and then reloaded.

 

I haven't seen any of the errors you mentioned above. I'm not into GC, so I've not had more than 20-40 waypoints, and only a few .gpx files (most less than 30k each) loaded on the unit; I was eventually going to put a lot more on, but haven't gotten to that point.

 

I only have the preloaded 400t topo maps, and have never even had a micro-SD card inserted.

 

Today's experience:

 

After I inserted the lithium batteries last night, I was only able to reproduce the non-responsive UI problem once thereafter. Prior to that, I was able to reproduce the problem a number of times using PowerEx 2700's (which I normally use), and even a set of PowerEx Imedion 2100's. Strange... perhaps a battery related problem, I thought.

 

This morning, I kept the lithium batteries in the 400t and went out to the forest for several hours. The unit worked fine with lithium batteries. However, this afternoon, I was running off USB power ("garmin spanner" mode), and I was able to hit a variation of the non-responsive UI problem that I hit last night. I was going to try to get some video of it when it unexpectedly cleared itself up (maybe the problem is triggered during difficult satellite acquisition periods; or maybe one of the .gpx files, that I've since deleted, was creating havoc). Up until now, I was thinking I was seeing a battery related problem, but it doesn't look that way now.

 

I hit a new problem today that I might have caused last night: I had great difficulties accessing the "A", "B", "E", "F" characters when spelling a name (for waypoint, POI search, whatever). I would press those letters, and sometimes the unit would sense them, and other times not ("A" was most problematic; also the "MC" key in the calculator which is in a similar position).

 

The "touch screen calibration" I did last night must have messed things up. Since then, I've gone through five calibrations and finally have "A B E F" letters working normally again. A few of the calibration iterations made things much worse for the "A B E F" grouping, and I guess I eventually performed the magical iteration that corrected things back to normal.

 

Overall, pretty frustrating. Now what about that DeLorme PN-40.... :laughing:

 

J

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I hit a new problem today that I might have caused last night: I had great difficulties accessing the "A", "B", "E", "F" characters when spelling a name (for waypoint, POI search, whatever). I would press those letters, and sometimes the unit would sense them, and other times not ("A" was most problematic; also the "MC" key in the calculator which is in a similar position).

 

The "touch screen calibration" I did last night must have messed things up. Since then, I've gone through five calibrations and finally have "A B E F" letters working normally again. A few of the calibration iterations made things much worse for the "A B E F" grouping, and I guess I eventually performed the magical iteration that corrected things back to normal.

J

 

I'm curious about the touchscreen calibration you mentioned. I've got a Nuvi 205W, it has both an ABC and QWERTY keyboard and I could do some testing. Just what is the purpose of calibration? Do you suppose the Nuvi has it?

 

I've only used QWERTY mode, default, but I've found it straight forward and mostly error free.

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I'm curious about the touchscreen calibration you mentioned. I've got a Nuvi 205W, it has both an ABC and QWERTY keyboard and I could do some testing. Just what is the purpose of calibration? Do you suppose the Nuvi has it?

 

I've only used QWERTY mode, default, but I've found it straight forward and mostly error free.

 

I don't know if the Nuvi has a calibration mode, but on the Oregon, you simply power on the unit by holding the power-on button for 30+ seconds -- it will eventually enter into calibration mode and walk you through a series of screen presses.

 

Last night was the first time I used the screen calibration tool -- and then 5 more times today. :laughing:

 

You probably know already, but the Oregon just has an "ABC" layout (not QWERTY). I had problems accessing a few of the letters after last night. I'm scared to try calibrating it again in case things get screwed up again. But if someone wants to try, to see if they hit the same problem, then that would be great.

 

Regards,

J

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After playing some time with an Oregon in a store I have some questions about doing multicaches with an Oregon:

 

- is there a fast way to enter an new WP or alter an existing one and hit the "go to" button? With the CSx it was hit find-button twice, choose WP, alter the coördinates to the ones you've just found and hit the go-to in the same screen. In the oregon I didn't find that way of working: first I had to pick a WP in the WP-manager, change the coördinates, leave the screen, in the menu, pick the "go-to" button, there pick the "WP-button", select one and finally press "go"... Seems rather many steps in comparison with a CSx?

 

There is no fast WP entry mode like the 60csx or CO. The steps you outlined are about right. When I first did this on the OR I was a little put back but now I find that the touch screen is fast enough that it turns out to be pretty quick to do most things. I will say on the CO and OR Garmin went out of their way to remove some very useful shortcuts.

 

- changing the coordinates of an WP: first you have a screen with arrows to go left or right in an coordinate and when you hit the "v" you get the numeric keys and you can change the numbers of the coördinates BUT, when you get to the letter "W" or "E" you have to change your keys to letters, typ the 'W' or 'E' again and change back to numbers to alter the rest of the coordinates. Or is there a way to "skip" the W or E when you have the number-keys on your screen? It seems rather stupid to always have to enter the W or E back again. Or to save the coördinate after finishing the N-coördinate, recall it, use the arrows to go to the W or E coordinatenumbers and hit the "v" back to get the numberkeys?

The " ° " and the " . " are locked, so can't you lock the W or E somehow to avoid to must typing it in everytime?

 

To get back to cursor mode just tap the coordinates and you get the left/right arrows again so you can move through the coordinates. Either way, this is a pretty poor UI. I wish cursor movement wasn't a different mode.

 

- Can you select an WP when you are in the mapscreen and alter the coordinates? Just like the CSx does?

 

Nope, you can select it, view details and goto it but you can't edit. The only edit interface after you've created the waypoint is the WP manager. Again, another place that could use a little optimization.

 

GO$Rs

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I recalibrated a few times when I first got the unit and never saw any issues, but I haven't seen anything like you did either!

 

GO$Rs

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Yeah I've noticed some of the streets in my Oregon 400T are off also, very disappointing for a $600 device.

 

I just installed the NA maps last night, yes it's true, the topo maps will show you 'near' your house, add in the NA maps and upload your state to your device and it will place you spot on.

 

plus some new nifty features are added specifically for navigation in a car. Not too shabby. but it should come preloaded for 600.00 device. or just preload and make it a 700.00 device.

 

well, it isn't a $600 unit, it's a $700 unit by the time you get it to work.

garmin could incorporate the accurate maps, but this way, you get to

purchase it for $600, so you don't feel so bad.

 

it's just part of the "new merchandising". if cars were sold this way,

they would cost $1,187.00, but wouldn't have steering wheel or tires.

 

be greatful you aren't buying festool woodworking stuff. EVERYTHING

is ala carte, and it's breathtakingly expensive. unfortunately, the stuff

works better than anything else on the market, and once you've used

it, it's worse than drug addiction.

 

if garmin stuff worked as well as my festool stuff, i could use my

oregon as a total station in survey work. and if garmin stuff was

priced like festool stuff, the oregon would be $5,875.00

 

FulThrotl

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I guess I've been "charmed" with the Oregon. I haven't had any of the problems with my Oregon that has been mentioned on here (so far) other than 1 time the screen wouldn't update when I switched to "Off Road" mode.

 

Other than that, it's performed flawlessly. I went and found 28 GeoCaches yesterday after an event with some other cachers and the Oregon was more accurate than 4 60CSx's, a Colorado and a Nuvi! On 3 of the caches, their GPSr's would bounce around wildly, but my Oregon was pretty true. They were impressed and I was VERY impressed! My Colorado was NEVER that good!

 

I have the Oregon 400t with the entire US Nav 2009 NT installed into internal memory. I started the day using Lithium batteries but switched to 2700 mAh NiMe batteries without issue. Only difference I noticed is that the unit got way heavier with the battery switch. No difference on operation or performance (in response to earlier post about possible battery issue).

 

I am VERY impressed with the Oregon, as were the other cachers with me. 1 cacher has almost 7000 finds and another has over 4000. I just turned over 2200 yesterday.

 

I would HIGHLY recommend the Oregon to anyone with the $$$ to get it!

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Today, I've hit a brand new problem which is pretty awful: about 50-60% of the time after powering the unit on, it will work fine for about 5 or 10 minutes, but thereafter the touch screen / button user interfaces will fail to be (as) responsive to user input.

 

For example, if I am on the satellite page and press the "x" to exit, the "x" will change color (i.e. I touched it), but the unit will freeze and it will take a very long time (20+ seconds) to return to the previous screen, and all operations are extremely sluggish from that point forward. The other scenario is that the unit becomes entirely non-responsive and will not react to anything (touch or single power-button presses); the only things that work are to press and hold the power button (it will eventually power off), or pull the batteries.

 

Once the unit is power cycled, it reboots just fine: the user interface is once again responsive and everything works as expected. But, at least tonight, I only have to wait 5 or 10 minutes to (usually about 50-60% of the time) see the new problem manifest itself.

 

Update...

 

I hit the problems above on Friday night, but (somehow) I fixed it, and the 400t worked fine on long hikes on Saturday and Sunday. But tonight (Sunday night), I was somehow able to re-create the non-responsive UI problem I saw on Friday, and I'm not sure how I did it.

 

Here is a crappy video showing the crappy problem -- notice the satellite and battery indicators are good:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ij31Jw3m7Sg

 

As on Friday night, the problem tonight was consistently reproducible once it started to happen. On power-up, the unit responsiveness would be excellent, but after a few minutes it would degrade as shown in the video. I don't think this is a battery related problem since I tried three different sets of batteries (two sets of 2700mAh, one set of 2100mAh) and consistently hit the problem shown in the video.

 

I didn't have any waypoints or GPX files loaded on the unit when the problem first appeared. I did have some tracklogs/waypoints on the unit earlier in the afternoon (created by the 400t on the hike), but I had deleted them.

 

One thing I noticed is that the unit was flaky this evening getting into mass storage mode; sometimes it would take a very long time, and sometimes it would never make it -- it would stay on the "Loading waypoints, tracks, and routes" screen for more than 10 minutes [i'd pull the batteries] -- I didn't have any waypoints, tracks, or routes on the unit for it to load.

 

Crazy theory: maybe prematurely unplugging the unit when it is trying to get into mass storage mode is not such a great idea; maybe it corrupts some of the system software, or the file-system (tho it seemed okay when mass storage mode did work), or something else scary may happen.

 

I did both the "master reset" and the "Settings / Reset to Default" and still saw the problem. I finally re-installed the software using webupdater and things seem better, so perhaps that is the best workaround to get the unit working again (not great for a solution in the field, tho).

 

It doesn't look like anyone else that follows this thread has seen this particular problem. Maybe it only affects my unit, otherwise maybe all we need is more time before others start to see it. I'm going to send the video to Garmin Tech Support.

 

Some good news: I was out in a nice rain on Saturday, and the 400t got soaked and kept on ticking. The wet screen was usable, except if I was on the Map screen and tried to wipe it so I could read it, the unit would think I was panning (of course).

 

Regards,

 

J

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snip...

be grateful you aren't buying festool woodworking stuff. EVERYTHING

is a la carte, and it's breathtakingly expensive. unfortunately, the stuff

works better than anything else on the market, and once you've used

it, it's worse than drug addiction.

 

if garmin stuff worked as well as my festool stuff, ...snip.

 

:laughing: Another tool addict, likewise.

Edited by LeonW

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Yeah I've noticed some of the streets in my Oregon 400T are off also, very disappointing for a $600 device.

 

I received an email back from garmin today stating

 

"I talked to another supervisor about this. Evidently, this has happened on a few other Oregons too. There should be an update available soon to take care of this issue."

 

my next question was 'when to expect this next update' and their response

 

"I actually don't know. With the brand new units, we usually see quite a few updates within the first few months."

 

 

 

Yes, I heard this multiple times myself. I don't think the software folks there really have a clue yet how to fix the multiple issues with the unit. I had to finally be honest with the last guy I spoke with. I told him... look, when I am geocaching I am not driving my car into the woods so I kinda need a unit that has consistent accuracy, not what the Oregon was giving me which was +/- 18 in the car and +/- 45 on the trail. My fear is that the Oregon's will never have any better accuracy than the Nuvis and that's just a shame and a waste of some other very good technology enhancements.

Edited by Patuxent Pirates

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I have noticed a problem with the trip odometer on my OR 400t

 

I did a road trip last week and noticed every time the trip odometer got over 1000 miles it would go crazy and start reading 9000+ miles. This happened three times on the trip. Every time the trip odometer went over 1000 miles it went crazy and started reading in the 9000+ miles.

 

Anyone else have this happen?

Edited by teamdw

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I have noticed a problem with the trip odometer on my OR 400t

 

I did a road trip last week and noticed every time the trip odometer got over 1000 miles it would go crazy and start reading 9000+ miles. This happened three times on the trip. Every time the trip odometer went over 1000 miles it went crazy and started reading in the 9000+ miles.

 

Anyone else have this happen?

 

I purchased my Oregon 400T last week. Used it this past week whilst camping up in Massachusetts. Resetting the trip odometer is easy enough, however, I for one would love to know how to reset my odometer. Or, is it like a car and cannot be reset?

 

Also, the Oregon can hold up to 1000 waypoints. When I load Geocaches, they are not reflecting in the waypoint manager. Does this mean that they are not being counted 'against' that 1000 waypoint count? Does that then mean that I can load in as many Geocaches as memory allows?

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I did a road trip last week and noticed every time the trip odometer got over 1000 miles it would go crazy and start reading 9000+ miles. This happened three times on the trip. Every time the trip odometer went over 1000 miles it went crazy and started reading in the 9000+ miles.

 

Anyone else have this happen?

 

I haven't seen this but I haven't let my trip odo go this high either. I'll add it to the Issues List if others can confirm it. Probably worth a call to Garmin as well.

 

Or, is it like a car and cannot be reset?

 

Setup>Reset>Reset Trip Data

 

Also, the Oregon can hold up to 1000 waypoints. When I load Geocaches, they are not reflecting in the waypoint manager. Does this mean that they are not being counted 'against' that 1000 waypoint count? Does that then mean that I can load in as many Geocaches as memory allows?

 

Geocaches and waypoints are different on the Oregon. Only non-geocache waypoints count against the limit of 1000. At least on the Colorado (and probably on the Oregon) geocaches are limited to 2000 in addition to the 1000 waypoints.

 

GO$Rs

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Resetting the trip odometer is easy enough, however, I for one would love to know how to reset my odometer. Or, is it like a car and cannot be reset?

Yes, I second this request. How does one reset the odometer?

 

Here is another query. With the Colorado when you are following a "Where To," you can have the CO recalculate the route, using different roads, by choosing "Detour." It appears that the Oregon does not have the equivalent command. Bummer! I hope I'm wrong and I am missing something. Any suggestions?

 

The screen brightness in direct light is disappointing. But overall I am pleased with the Oregon, and it is a cut above the Colorado. I have used it on my bicycle, in the car and while hiking. The screen is viewable on the bike, on the trail and in the car.

 

The Oregon has a faster startup time than the CO, it has true one hand operation, it appears to be a more thoughtfully designed case than the CO and it looks to be really be watertight.

 

Barrikady

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Yes, I second this request. How does one reset the odometer?

 

See above, I also added this to the FAQ: http://garminoregon.wikispaces.com/Trip%20Computer#toc1

 

Here is another query. With the Colorado when you are following a "Where To," you can have the CO recalculate the route, using different roads, by choosing "Detour." It appears that the Oregon does not have the equivalent command. Bummer! I hope I'm wrong and I am missing something. Any suggestions?

 

Nope, this is missing functionality on the Oregon. Of course you gain the ability to recalculate off/on route with the Oregon! Once you are navigation select WhereTo and you'll see this option.

 

GO$Rs

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Yes, I second this request. How does one reset the odometer?

 

See above, I also added this to the FAQ: http://garminoregon.wikispaces.com/Trip%20Computer#toc1

 

GO$Rs

 

Please note: I am referring to the Odometer, not the Trip Odometer. Resetting the Trip Odometer is not the problem. Figuring out how to reset the Odometer is the mystery.

 

 

.

Edited by Barrikady

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GO$Rs

 

On many of the info page screenshots, I see palm fronds or pebbles behind the data fields, I'm assuming these can NOT be changed? What happened to black on white like my eTrex? Has this come up as a change item?

 

601.JPG

 

Thanks

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Please note: I am referring to the Odometer, not the Trip Odometer. Resetting the Trip Odometer is not the problem. Figuring out how to reset the Odometer is the mystery.

 

Ah yes, you are right. It looks like Garmin overlooked a reset control on that field. It seems like Max Speed, Max Elevation, elevation data and the trip odometer data are all covered by the single reset control but the odometer is not affected. I'll add this to the Issues List.

 

On many of the info page screenshots, I see palm fronds or pebbles behind the data fields, I'm assuming these can NOT be changed? What happened to black on white like my eTrex? Has this come up as a change item?

 

These are the different background images that come with the unit, they are different depending on the profile. They can be changed by downloading a different jpg image and selecting that image using Setup>Display>Background .

 

GO$Rs

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I did a road trip last week and noticed every time the trip odometer got over 1000 miles it would go crazy and start reading 9000+ miles. This happened three times on the trip. Every time the trip odometer went over 1000 miles it went crazy and started reading in the 9000+ miles.

 

Anyone else have this happen?

 

I haven't seen this but I haven't let my trip odo go this high either. I'll add it to the Issues List if others can confirm it. Probably worth a call to Garmin as well.

 

Or, is it like a car and cannot be reset?

 

Setup>Reset>Reset Trip Data

This is not the problem. I can reset the 'Trip' odometer without a problem. However, if you choose to display the odometer, it will give you a gawd awful large number just like your car odometer does. It seems like Garmin created this odometer for measuring the legs on each GPS.

 

Also, the Oregon can hold up to 1000 waypoints. When I load Geocaches, they are not reflecting in the waypoint manager. Does this mean that they are not being counted 'against' that 1000 waypoint count? Does that then mean that I can load in as many Geocaches as memory allows?

 

Geocaches and waypoints are different on the Oregon. Only non-geocache waypoints count against the limit of 1000. At least on the Colorado (and probably on the Oregon) geocaches are limited to 2000 in addition to the 1000 waypoints.

 

GO$Rs

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Much searching and no answer does anyone know how much memory the Oregan 400c has

Cheers java script:emoticon(';)',%20'smid_10')

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Several people have asked what does the Off Road Transitions setting under Routing do on the Oregon (and Colorado). I've called Garmin specifically on this issue and no one has ever been able to explain it to me so I assumed it was broken.

 

Given the name I thought it had to do with transitions from On road navigation to Off road but today looked at it a little more literally and here is what I found.

 

This setting controls the way the unit behaves when you are navigating a multi-point route off road. Assume that you create a route with three points: A, B and C. Navigation will work as follows in each of the three modes:

 

1) Auto: The default setting which works like you would expect. In the example route above if you've gone past A the data fields would indicate distance, ETA, bearing, etc to B until you reach B. Once you've arrived very close to B the unit will automatically switch "Next" to C. On the Oregon the Active Route tool displays a little red flag in the bar of the point which is currently the "Next" in the route. The Colorado highlights "Next" in red text.

 

2) Manual: The unit doesn't do any automatic switching of "Next" but instead allows the user to do this. The way you do this by selecting points in the Active Route tool. This will move the little red flag, or red text in case of the Colorado, to the point you select and set the distance, ETA, bearing, etc based on the point you've selected. Note: The alert text you see when entering this mode is wrong on the Oregon (it is left over from the Colorado). There are no left/right buttons on the Oregon, just tap the bar to select your next destination.

 

3) Distance: Similar to auto except it seems to let you specify a proximity which will trigger the switch of "Next". For example, if I have this set to 200' and I'm navigating from A to B, as soon as I'm within 200' of B, "Next" will switch to C. I'm guessing if you sent the distance about 30' this mode work probably work just like Auto.

 

GO$Rs

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They are different, but one is not "better" than the other. It is a personal choice as to which you will like more.

 

I can only think of three reasons why I would not buy an Oregon over Colorado

 

1) GPS/antenna performance is the biggest. To me the CO and OR are equally bad right now, although for different reasons. The big drift issue with the CO might be a software fix, and if so, the CO would have the edge over the OR unless Garmin releases improvements for the OR. Either way I'm not sure for backpacking it would make any difference, both hold lock well, acquire fast (OR is faster) and get you to within 50'.

 

2) Screen brightness. The CO is marginally better but I turn off relief shading and crank up the backlight on both if I'm using them during the day so it really doesn't matter to me. Minor advantage for the CO, but not enough to sway a buying decision.

 

3) Winter/cold screen performance. I still haven't heard any reports of use in extreme cold. Works fine in heavy rain and w/gloves on -- we'll have to see how it does in -20F.

 

Aside from these three the OR is a clear winner over the CO. The user interface is easier to use, text entry is fast, the smaller is smaller and lighter, track management is superior, it has a lanyard attachment, battery life is better, boot time is about half the CO's, the case design feels more durable and waterproof, and many other small software improvements which may or may not make it to the CO.

 

If I had $600 to spend on a backpacking unit the OR would be an easy choice.

 

GO$Rs

 

I actually did a non-scientific test with my Oregon that proved to be successful. I put it in the industrial freezer at work for 2 hours and got the temp down to around -10 degrees. It performed a little slower perhaps but it still was able to connect to the satellites and I was able to work through the menu keys just fine. I did have a problem of condensation forming on the screen when I took it outside in the 90 degree weather:)

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I actually did a non-scientific test with my Oregon that proved to be successful. I put it in the industrial freezer at work for 2 hours and got the temp down to around -10 degrees. It performed a little slower perhaps but it still was able to connect to the satellites and I was able to work through the menu keys just fine. I did have a problem of condensation forming on the screen when I took it outside in the 90 degree weather:)

 

Thanks for the test. It is good to know that it does operate outside the low end of the operating range the manual specifies. The Oregon online manual says the operating temp. range is -4F to 158F.

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On my 400T the altimeter goes crazy...when I sit in the same place for 1 hour and I look at the Elevation Plot - Total Ascent value is rising every minute , after one hour the total ascent value is ~ 70 m and I didn't make a move.

Iis it any chance to see the real total ascent value when I go hiking for 10 hours? not 400-500 meters more than the real value?

 

Thanks.

Edited by xcyrus

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