An idea that needs help

[fishdirt]

I have a theme involved in my caches. Aliens. I keep thinking there really isn't anything alien about them or where they are placed other then the names and an alien toy. So I got to thinking today about building a cache rig.

 

Here was the idea. Using minimum electricity (2 aa or a 9 volt battery) I want to rig a light or two with small speakers to a trigger under a cache. Once lifted the lights and a noise would go off. How could I make a trigger to do this to where the cache doesn't need to be replaced exactly on it? This would be in a wooded area and I am considering grabbing some vines and hollowing them out to hide wiring. If you have any other ideas on improving or for going what I want effect wise, let me know please

[+ventura_kids]

You should be able to buy a Halloween motion sensing item, and modify it to look like anything you want.

You can solder a larger battery clip on it and add additional batteries (in parallel), to make it last longer between maintenance.

[+Laineybug]

I have a theme involved in my caches. Aliens. I keep thinking there really isn't anything alien about them or where they are placed other then the names and an alien toy. So I got to thinking today about building a cache rig.

 

Here was the idea. Using minimum electricity (2 aa or a 9 volt battery) I want to rig a light or two with small speakers to a trigger under a cache. Once lifted the lights and a noise would go off. How could I make a trigger to do this to where the cache doesn't need to be replaced exactly on it? This would be in a wooded area and I am considering grabbing some vines and hollowing them out to hide wiring. If you have any other ideas on improving or for going what I want effect wise, let me know please

 

Dude if you manage that I wanna know cause I'm so coming to Michigan and doing it! SWEET!

[fishdirt]

I thought about the motion sensor thing but I don't want it going off until the cache is found. Any ideas for a modification of this?

 

Also had a good idea for one near lakes, though I doubt I can pull this off around here. Wire a light under water to a trigger cache. At night, when lifted the water would glow. Again, waterproof light and cables and low wattage (modified taplight perhaps).

[fishdirt]

I thought about the motion sensor thing but I don't want it going off until the cache is found. Any ideas for a modification of this?

 

Also had a good idea for one near lakes, though I doubt I can pull this off around here. Wire a light under water to a trigger cache. At night, when lifted the water would glow. Again, waterproof light and cables and low wattage (modified taplight perhaps).

[+TMDMom]

what about making your setup activate when the cache is opened? Then closing it would close the trigger.

 

eta...if I opened a cache and lights and sounds starting going off it would scare the daylights out of me then I would laugh hysterically.

Edited April 20, 2008 by TMDMom

[fishdirt]

what about making your setup activate when the cache is opened? Then closing it would close the trigger.

 

eta...if I opened a cache and lights and sounds starting going off it would scare the daylights out of me then I would laugh hysterically.

 

Thought about it but the cache is always moved before opening. I need a trigger that goes off as soon as someone lifts the cache.

[+Night Stalker]

Looks to me like you need s triggering device that would sit under the cache. It would have to be spring loaded so that when the cache is lifted up it would flip from one side to the other like a see saw closing your circuit.

 

The only problem with all this is that the finder would have to replace the cache just so in order to the balance to return to the open position.

[fishdirt]

Looks to me like you need s triggering device that would sit under the cache. It would have to be spring loaded so that when the cache is lifted up it would flip from one side to the other like a see saw closing your circuit.

 

The only problem with all this is that the finder would have to replace the cache just so in order to the balance to return to the open position.

 

This is what I thought. It could be weighted on one side. I was thinking instructions to place it back properly. Not quite sure how I could set it all up though or if there was maybe a better method. I like the idea of using a sensor but how in this instance? Would save on wiring.

[+BCandMsKitty]

How about putting the cache where it can only be aproached from one spot, and then rig a switch plate where the searcher would have to step on it, setting off your effects?

Then use a halloween thing but modify it to switch on and off with the switch plate instead of the motion sensor. This would give you exact control over when the thing goes off.

Edited April 20, 2008 by BC & MsKitty

[fishdirt]

How about putting the cache where it can only be aproached from one spot, and then rig a switch plate where the searcher would have to step on it, setting off your effects?

Then use a halloween thing but modify it to switch on and off with the switch plate instead of the motion sensor. This would give you exact control over when the thing goes off.

 

Good idea! May modify it...i could use these ideas for a whole series haha...people will get white hair in no time!

[+Tech Hiker]

My first thought was a reflective IR sensor. Anything that reflects IR placed directly in front of the sensor will hold the switch. That would be tough on batteries though if you want a small battery.

 

Otherwise, there are 'momentary' lever switches that require very little force to hold them on or off. Just set the cache on the switch, or on a pressure plate attached to the switch.

[+pigpen4x4]

1. Magnetic switch with a magnet in the container.

2. Light sensor, the container blocks the light and once lifted any amient light will turn it on.

PP

[+Michael]

Get a trained monkey to sit in a tree and set it off with a remote.

 

OR

 

Get a few 555 timers and wire it up to go on when its picked up and then time out in 1 minutes to turn off. you can use a motion switch in the cache box to fire the start of the first timer. then the second timer resets the trigger after say 10 minutes. Done correctly it wont matter if the box is not set exactly in the right position.

 

Me I like the monkey idea.

Edited April 20, 2008 by Michael

[+gof1]

While you are working out the details for the switch give a thought to your power supply. I'd rig a solar panel into the system and use a rechargeable battery pack. You could liberate the needed parts from one of those solar yard lights.

[Harold14370]

What about those dolls where you pull the string to make it talk? You could use the mechanism out of that and attach the string to your cache container to actuate when the container is pulled out if its hiding place.

[+Trucker Lee]

I thought about the motion sensor thing but I don't want it going off until the cache is found. Any ideas for a modification of this?

 

Can you fix a cradle for the cache to sit in, and mount the motion detector under it? Only when the cache is lifted would there be motion.

 

Also had a good idea for one near lakes, though I doubt I can pull this off around here. Wire a light under water to a trigger cache. At night, when lifted the water would glow. Again, waterproof light and cables and low wattage (modified taplight perhaps).

Leakproof container, jar for example, with wires run through hole in lid and sealed. Anchored with lid/opening down. Depending on battery, could even have it in the container to aid in ballast.

[+Ed56]

Great idea! One way to trigger the LEDs in your cache would be to use a "limit switch". A couple of these switches are used in your ink jet printer.... one at each end of the rod that the ink cartridge travels back and forth on. When the carriage hits the switch an electrical signal is triggered which tells the carriage it has reached its' travel limit. These switches are also called "Micro Switches" and you should be able to buy them from Mouser Electronic, etc. or maybe Radio Shack for 2 or 3 $US. The switch has 3 terminals so you can wire it to be either NO or NC (normally open or normally closed). The switch is triggered by a little diving board like lever. For example if you used an Altoids can type cache container you could wire your switch in the NC mode so that when the lid is shut the lever is pressed by the lid.... turning off the circuit. When the lid is opened the lever springs up and you have a closed (active) circuit. I can add more detail on using LEDs if needed.... but be sure to use a resistor to drop the current to around 25mA. I hope you get this working, good luck!

Edited April 20, 2008 by Ed56

[fishdirt]

While you are working out the details for the switch give a thought to your power supply. I'd rig a solar panel into the system and use a rechargeable battery pack. You could liberate the needed parts from one of those solar yard lights.

 

Thought about this but not quite sure how solar panels work.

 

 

Ok, maybe I should explain the illusion I want to give. Close encounters of the third kind. Basically a bright light overhead (say in a branch) and a small speaker that gives off a ufo type sound. The underwater thing would be great as well for the theme but the only public accesses I have to water ways are pretty populated in the summer. I may implement it on someone's property near a public access (with their permission).

 

These are all great ideas and if I build a few caches I'll be sure to make plans and take pictures.

[fishdirt]

Great idea! One way to trigger the LEDs in your cache would be to use a "limit switch". A couple of these switches are used in your ink jet printer.... one at each end of the rod that the ink cartridge travels back and forth on. When the carriage hits the switch an electrical signal is triggered which tells the carriage it has reached its' travel limit. These switches are also called "Micro Switches" and you should be able to buy them from Mouser Electronic, etc. or maybe Radio Shack for 2 or 3 $US. The switch has 3 terminals so you can wire it to be either NO or NC (normally open or normally closed). The switch is triggered by a little diving board like lever. For example if you used an Altoids can type cache container you could wire your switch in the NC mode so that when the lid is shut the lever is pressed by the lid.... turning off the circuit. When the lid is opened the lever springs up and you have a closed (active) circuit. I can add more detail on using LEDs if needed.... but be sure to use a resistor to drop the current to around 25mA. I hope you get this working, good luck!

 

This may work. I was planning on using ammo can caches but this is making me think about using micros too. I hope to get up to 10 themed caches going.

 

Is there such thing as an instant inflator? I've seen rafts use them but I'm thinking a blow up alien inside a cache triggered by the lid lifting up.

[+gof1]

I just installed one of these by the side door. Works great and has all the parts you need for the power supply. Just change out the lights for what you want, add the sound, and configure how you need it. Find a hollow log so you can put the motion sensor behind the cache box. Hang the solar panel up in some tree not too far away, conceal the wires and you're good to go.

[+Kit Fox]

Here is a good start;

 

Alternative caching electronics.

 

Electronic Caches

 

Warning you're risking backlash from angry cachers, but a Shooting Cubicle Alarm System would be a riot. The video is interesting to say the least.

Edited April 20, 2008 by Kit Fox

[fishdirt]

Here is a good start;

 

Alternative caching electronics.

 

Electronic Caches

 

Warning you're are risking backlash from angry cachers, but a Shooting Cubicle Alarm System would be a riot. The video is interesting to say the least.

 

haha, yeah nothing shockingly loud or sudden. I'd like to do stuff like what a ufo would sound like or something walking in the leaves.

[+Ed56]

If you're planning to use an ammo box.... maybe try using a hollowed out piece of scrap 2x4 as a docking station and put a micro switch (aka limit switch, snap switch) plus your batteries etc. inside it with the switch's activating lever poking out above the top surface a little ways. Enclose the electronic innards in a plastic bag for additional waterproofing. Then, as someone has already suggested, run your camouflaged wires up the tree to your lights and speaker. The weight of your ammo box will easily be enough to trigger the micro switch into the off position. Then when someone lifts it off the base... bingo, the switch clicks to its' on position and the weird stuff happens. Hee, hee, hee!

[+jrope]

Cool idea. I would make sure I used LEDs for the lights.