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Cache attached to Fishing Line


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I am thinking about placing a cache high into a tree, where the finder would have to lower it using fishing line that is attached to the box. Of course, the end of the line that you would use to lower the box would be about 100 feet away from the actual cache. Should I make this a multi, where I give coordinates for both the box in the tree and the end of the line? Or would this be too evil to have someone looking for a piece of string hanging from a tree in the forest?

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100 feet? What kind of tree is this... a redwood? :ph34r:

 

I've seen a few like it before. Generally, however, a sturdier string works better than fishing line. The best one I've seen was in a thick spruce tree, and used a thick, dark cord that blended in well with the needles. Fishing line tends to tangle, and I've attempted a number of caches that were irretrievable because the line got twisted.

 

 

 

edit: should have read your post better. That's 100 feet away, not 100 feet below.

Edited by DavidMac
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Great idea, we have a number like that around here.

 

What you will find is that friction is your enemy - a string over a branch requires a far heavier cache to overcome it than you might imagine.

 

Plus, remember that if the cache is to be 25' off the ground you'll need that much excess string coiled at the location where the end of the string is to be secured.

 

Your idea - 100' of string through trees, would require pulleys or a very heavy cache which would likely bonk some poor soul on the head!

 

Some folks use a bison tube. Throw the string over a high branch and back down to make a loop, pull one side of the loop to lower the cache, pull the other side to raise it back up. When raised the cache balances on top of the limb out of sight.

 

Use green or brown string that will hang against the trunk of the tree and it is almost invisible!

 

I have one multi where one stage is a decon container. I found a fence along a steep hillside, tied 20' of clear fishing line to the bottom of the fence and threw it down the hill into tall grass. You have to spot the line where it's tied to the fence and runs off into the grass and reel it in to get the coords to the next stage. Folks tell me it's a bugger to find!

 

There are several around here hung off of foot-bridges with fishing line - one is a fake cork bobbing downstream in the creek below... evil!

 

A plastic submarine tied to a fishing line, thrown out into a lake and tied to a tree root on the bank will get your cache noticed!

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I use very heavy fishing line to hang a bird feeder up out of the way of non-birds and can tell you that it can be a bit problematic. Eventually the line cuts into the tree. Usually we fill it when there is someone else around to lift up on it some.

 

It sounds like a good idea though. If you put a pulley it would remedy the friction. You would probably want to make some knots or some other way to keep the rope from coming out of the pully.

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I've found a couple of these. Both were hung with a braided line of some sort perhaps 1/4" - 3/8" in diameter. It was brown and black and blended in well. The surface of the cord was smooth enough to pass over the branch the cache was hung from. One of them was a Folger's can painted green. I don't remember the color scheme of the other, but it was a similar plastic can and had a rather heavy weight glued or epoxyed to the bottom to drag the thing down. Evil hides that I had nearly given up on until I spotted the cord tied to a tree oh 50 feet away. Go for it.

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I've found a couple of these. Both were hung with a braided line of some sort perhaps 1/4" - 3/8" in diameter. It was brown and black and blended in well. The surface of the cord was smooth enough to pass over the branch the cache was hung from. One of them was a Folger's can painted green. I don't remember the color scheme of the other, but it was a similar plastic can and had a rather heavy weight glued or epoxyed to the bottom to drag the thing down. Evil hides that I had nearly given up on until I spotted the cord tied to a tree oh 50 feet away. Go for it.

 

Theres one like that in my area. They used "parachute cord" which is a braided line about 3/16". It holds up well, and slides pretty easily. THis one is about 30 feet up a tree. I like your idea though.

 

I can imagine some sort of indiana jones or macgyver style cache, where pulling the cord causes a number of things to happen in order for the cache to come down, be exposed, etc.

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That's pretty evil, I guess. But why not go several hundred feet, through the woods, through multiple pulleys?

 

And have the cache over the middle of a river, at the bottom of a 30 foot bluff, after a mile hike?

 

And make that one stage of a five stage multi?

 

Sigh. I sure do miss the Bill and Gary series. Did I mention it was a park system that created that wonderful monstrosity?

Edited by Dinoprophet
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I am thinking about placing a cache high into a tree, where the finder would have to lower it using fishing line that is attached to the box. Of course, the end of the line that you would use to lower the box would be about 100 feet away from the actual cache. Should I make this a multi, where I give coordinates for both the box in the tree and the end of the line? Or would this be too evil to have someone looking for a piece of string hanging from a tree in the forest?

 

This method has been in use for many years. One of my favorite finds was a Coulter Pine cone hidden about 50 feet up a regular pine tree. The fishing line was strung across many large branches, and it came down to another tree about 50 or 60 feet away.

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As already stated you need to think of how they are going to retrieve the cache without damaging it. With a 100' run that likely won't be an issue, but make sure you test it first.

 

The problem with fishing line is that it's usually not UV stable. After a few months in the sun it will become more brittle and not hold up to repeated use.

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I've done a fun one where there's a camo'd container in the tree that you can see, and somewhere in the trees, there's actually a fishing pole that you have to use to get it down and put it back up. Really fun! Gotta love the creativity! I personally carry a reel of fishing line with me. I have several that are down pipes and drains, suspended by fishing line. I also use it for "fishing" caches where something is down a pipe, for example, and you have to fish it out with a washer or magnet. Brings hides to a whole new level! Definitely would suggest heavy line and pulleys if you go the fishing line route.

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I have one like this that has been very popular. I wish I could remember who had the 'Sportsman Series' that lent me his idea . . . This isn't actually tooooo difficult to implement. Mine is in an old lightning damage cavity in the side of the tree. The 40 lb. fishing line wraps around two screws about six inches apart (placed in dead wood), it then goes about 20' up the tree to a branch. Hanging from the branch is a camo painted carabiner, attached with a piece of camo, nylon parachute-type cord. The line lays against the trunk of the tree most of the way up, then loops through the 'biner. It then runs about 100' to another tree, about 20' up the trunk, similar 'biner.

 

When the cache (a well rinsed, small, Gatorade container, wrapped in camo tape) is 'wound' up all the way, it hangs just below the second branch. Only give away might be the shimmer of the line crossing the clearing, if the sun is right.

 

Problems:

1. Monofilament degrades over time. Plan on replacing it every six months, or more often.

2. Branches may come down out of the tree (ice/thunderstorm) and break the line.

3. Branches may blow and 'pick up' the line, causing it to run over something extra in its path.

4. Hauling the 24' extension ladder a 100 yards into the park so you can get up the tree to place the 'biners. :grin:

 

Solutions:

Replace the line before it breaks. One easy way is to tie one end of the line to a bead (which will easily go through the 'biner opening), attach the new line to the same bead and use the old line to pull the new line through the system.

Use a HEAVY weight monofilament; minimum 20 lb. even for a small, light cache.

No solutions for the other problems. ;)

 

Cache On!

 

JohnTee

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We have at least 1 that I know of similar to this. It isnt as lengthy though. Fishing line is used to hold a bucket about 15 ft up. The line goes through some of the branches & is tied to a stick you use to wind the line up on. It was a bit tangled when I found it.

 

A puley system would be kinda cool though ;)

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I have found 2 caches like this (1 was a ftf). I love them they are great caches as long as they are done well. The first one I found, the line was about 30 feet away from the cache and the coords took you to the line, not the cache.

 

The second one the line was about 50 feet away and the coords took you to the cache.

 

I would suggest putting the coords at the cache, make it a traditional, rig it very very well, and be prepared to maintain it regularly if needbe. As far as I'm concerned, the distance from cache to the line is completely up to you.

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The only problem I see if the line is 100 feet from the cache some people are not going to see the line that far away and will start climbing the tree to get to the cache and that can not be good for the tree.

What's wrong with climbing a tree? :)

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Fishing line, or some other line, can help make some caches a bit more unique and memorable. I always like finding new methods of hiding a cache. Gives me ideas for placing my own.

 

If you are worried about friction, pulleys are one option. Though, depending on how you place it, the line could come off the pulley. If you want to help reduce friction, but avoid the pulley, use key rings. Strategically tie them to the tree and run the line through them. Not only does it provide a smooth surface, but it helps guide the line around branches too.

 

For tying off the line, you could use a basic fishing reel attached to a tree as a way to let the line down and reset the cache after signing. It's a bit different, and provides an easy way to lower and raise the cache. Or use one of those key rings that splits in two. Measure off a generous portion of line, enough for the person to walk forward and lower the cache. You want to measure it off so that the end of the line reaches a branch on another tree when the cache is where you want it in the tree. Then, attach one half of the key ring to the end of the line, and the other half to whatever branch you've measured off too. This way, when the two halves are joined, the cache is in place. When they are detached, the person can walk forward to lower the cache, sign the log, then walk back and reattach it, placing the cache exactly in the same spot. Plus, with the that end of the line in a completely different tree, it will confuse the finder at first because they will be looking for a way to get it down and not realize that a second tree is involved.

 

The only problem is the sun. At the right angle, the line could be easily spotted if the person is paying attention. I've heard dark nylon cord as one way to avoid this. Any other ideas anyone?

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Make sure you use 30lb test. No nails in trees. I've done caches like that but you have not seen evil until you've done a cache like Don't Do This Cache. Sadly, maintenance was so hard it had to be archived. A pizza party was held to celebrate with the people who finished this one, just so they could get together and talk about it. The number of stages, the hides, all were kept secret if you had done it already. It has to be one of my top caches ever. It took us 11 1/2 miles of hiking and 11 1/2 hours to finish and we were the first to finish it in one day. The hides were so clever and numerous! But I think I might still be sworn to secrecy.

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