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explenture

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It all depends on the kinds of caches you are hunting. For urban and suburban parks, all I bring are my GPS, sometimes the camera and a small bag of swag.

 

For caches that are long hikes, I bring anything that I would take hiking (see below). This is my spring/summer/fall outfit. It is a bit different in the winter:

 

26f969a4-ed83-480a-810a-da08d1fccffd.jpg

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It all depends on the kinds of caches you are hunting. For urban and suburban parks, all I bring are my GPS, sometimes the camera and a small bag of swag.

 

For caches that are long hikes, I bring anything that I would take hiking (see below). This is my spring/summer/fall outfit. It is a bit different in the winter:

 

26f969a4-ed83-480a-810a-da08d1fccffd.jpg

 

What power and what make are you binoculars" I am in the market for a set and most I see either ahve too small a field or are too low power and anything with either a large field or power is large physically. Those look quite compact in your kit.

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Wilderness hike:

GPSr

Swag bag

Cell phone

Multi-tool

Pocket knife

Leather gloves

Flashlight

Snacks (particularly Snickers Marathon protein bars, enough on them to keep a body going, and they help stave off 'bonking'.)

Water

Sometimes I have an energy drink in my bag.

Basic first aid kit (acquired from Wal Mart for $10)

Snake bite kit.

Portable Black Light (well, during the summer at least)

 

My partner in crime carries a few other extra things that can be useful to have.

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What power and what make are you binoculars" I am in the market for a set and most I see either ahve too small a field or are too low power and anything with either a large field or power is large physically. Those look quite compact in your kit.

 

Nikon 10x I forget the field, but obviously it's not going to be a lot with compact binoculars.

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What power and what make are you binoculars" I am in the market for a set and most I see either ahve too small a field or are too low power and anything with either a large field or power is large physically. Those look quite compact in your kit.

 

Nikon 10x I forget the field, but obviously it's not going to be a lot with compact binoculars.

As far a Field of view, this is determined by the power of the binoclular. A lower power results in a wider field of view, a higher power results in a smaller field of view, an 8X will have a wider field than a 10X.

Most binocluar companies will list the FOV in the binoculars, some like Nikon will the angle of degreas from the center, if you multipy this number by 55 it will give you and idea off the FOV in feet.

 

The second number listed is the size of the objectrive lens (the on in the front) that larger the objective lens the brighter the image.

 

If you devide the size of the objective lens by the power the resulting number will be the size of exit pupil,

the larger the exit pupil the brighter the image.

As far as large binocular vs. compact binocular, the large binoculars (10X50-8X40-7X35) will have a bright image than there counterparts in the compacts sizes (10X25-8-20)

 

But the compacts are easier to carry.

 

As far as what I use in Binoculars

I have a 7X35 Nikon, 8X40 Burnton (waterproof and fog proof) and a Zeiss 8X40 (waterproof and fogproof)

My first choice in the Zeiss, the Brunton I carry on my Kayak.

 

more about binoculars

Edited by JohnnyVegas
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What power and what make are you binoculars" I am in the market for a set and most I see either ahve too small a field or are too low power and anything with either a large field or power is large physically. Those look quite compact in your kit.

 

Nikon 10x I forget the field, but obviously it's not going to be a lot with compact binoculars.

 

Thanks Briansnat, I appreciate the reply. Those Safaris look great and at the price I wouldn't mind if they got a little "field" use :yikes:

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<<As far a Field of view, this is determined by the power of the binoclular. A lower power results in a wider field of view, a higher power results in a smaller field of view, an 8X will have a wider field than a 10X.>>

 

True only if the objective lens diameter stays the same. Another way to increase brightness is with optical coatings. I'm looking for a small binocular that I can slip into my pocket and Nikon makes some nice ones but at a price; like these. My personal preferences in glass is Nikon and Zeiss although the Minolta people have started their own glass factory. Briansnat suggested these and I like the combination of compactness and price. Usually the difference in price is as a result of the quality of the lenses so I'm trying to find some specs on the Safari. Astigmatism and spherical aberration are two of the items I usually consider in optics and both are annoying in inexpensive lenses.

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Depending on task and/transport....

 

(pretty much what I have on me at all times)

Knife- basic folding Buck type

Lighter- usually a Zippo

Cell phone -CHARGED

Gloves- leather

Bandanas- x2 (1 for sweat and or hankerchief, 1 kept clean for wiping glasses or first aid)

 

In my pack or saddle bags depending on trip----( my saddle bags {packed} are less than 10lbs)

Water/drinks

snack

string/cord/rope

Magnesium fire starter (w/striker/scraper)

strike anywhere matches

perpetual match

whistle & mirror

flares (1 or 2 small handhelds, and "pencil"launcher /mini kit)

emergency blanket

" poncho

multi-tool

heavier straight hunting knife

Mini-Maglite

GPS

extra batteries

LED headlamp

LED "glowstick"

first aid * ( 4x4, 2x2 pads 2-4 ea, 5x9 1ea, tape, CoFlex 1 ea, asst bandaids, hemostats 2ea, scissors, gauze roll 1 or 2ea, small bottle ~2oz of Betadine and or Nolvasan) all this can be put into 1 zip baggie.

 

I also made a "survival kit" out of a poly-carb wide mouth bottle

water purification

"space" blanket

light poncho

S/A matches (waterproofed)

compressed bit of tinder (dryer lint)

hand warmers

candle(s)

pen/pencil pad

duct tape

carabiner(s)

first aid *(same as above w/o liquids or rolled items)

SA knife

zip baggies

AA bateries

 

It is easy enough to put in a day pack or saddle bags, so depending on where or what I am doing, I will toss it in my bag.

 

Caching and hiking.... I will also have a "swag" container, maybe a cache of my own, walking pole(s)

 

* First aid... My kits vary depending on thier purpose, I have the little ones like above, and my full or heavy ones that are for my horses and humans, med sized duffle bag, that has surgical kits(sutures) and supplies, trauma kit,cautery, IV kit, horse meds/topicals, more dressing and bandaging supplies.

 

my camera broke so no pics sorry.

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<<As far a Field of view, this is determined by the power of the binoclular. A lower power results in a wider field of view, a higher power results in a smaller field of view, an 8X will have a wider field than a 10X.>>

 

True only if the objective lens diameter stays the same. Another way to increase brightness is with optical coatings. I'm looking for a small binocular that I can slip into my pocket and Nikon makes some nice ones but at a price; like these. My personal preferences in glass is Nikon and Zeiss although the Minolta people have started their own glass factory. Briansnat suggested these and I like the combination of compactness and price. Usually the difference in price is as a result of the quality of the lenses so I'm trying to find some specs on the Safari. Astigmatism and spherical aberration are two of the items I usually consider in optics and both are annoying in inexpensive lenses.

As far as coatings, if the company places a coating on a compact binocular, they are going to put the same coating on the full size binoculars. So the binocular with the large lens is always going to be brighter that the binocular with the small lens. You also need to factor in Roof Prism vs Poro Prism binocular, it they use the same quality glass ect. the Poro prism if going to allow more light to pass than a roof prism. The exception would be in some of the Zeiss that use an AbeConig prism (not sure of the spelling) this looks alike roof prism binocular but it performs like a porp prism. The roof prism is more compact (the tubes are in a straight line) with the Porp Prism style the front and back lensed are offset, so they are bulkier.

As far as Nikon glass, nikon has high end binoculars the are price about the same as Zeiss but they are hard to find, most dealers stock the low to mid range Nikon products.

Steiner is a good brand, they have updated their style over the past ten years.

 

One thing about binoculars, you really get what you pay for.

 

edit to add,

I looked at that Steiner at a trade show a few years ago. That is a nice binocular.

Edited by JohnnyVegas
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What power and what make are you binoculars" I am in the market for a set and most I see either ahve too small a field or are too low power and anything with either a large field or power is large physically. Those look quite compact in your kit.

 

Nikon 10x I forget the field, but obviously it's not going to be a lot with compact binoculars.

I have a set of Nikon 8X compact, that I recieved as a gift years ago, and they have served me better than and of the cheap full sized that I've tried. The larger ones just didn't have the lense quality to match the size.

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<<As far a Field of view, this is determined by the power of the binoclular. A lower power results in a wider field of view, a higher power results in a smaller field of view, an 8X will have a wider field than a 10X.>>

 

True only if the objective lens diameter stays the same. Another way to increase brightness is with optical coatings. I'm looking for a small binocular that I can slip into my pocket and Nikon makes some nice ones but at a price; like these. My personal preferences in glass is Nikon and Zeiss although the Minolta people have started their own glass factory. Briansnat suggested these and I like the combination of compactness and price. Usually the difference in price is as a result of the quality of the lenses so I'm trying to find some specs on the Safari. Astigmatism and spherical aberration are two of the items I usually consider in optics and both are annoying in inexpensive lenses.

As far as coatings, if the company places a coating on a compact binocular, they are going to put the same coating on the full size binoculars. So the binocular with the large lens is always going to be brighter that the binocular with the small lens. You also need to factor in Roof Prism vs Poro Prism binocular, it they use the same quality glass ect. the Poro prism if going to allow more light to pass than a roof prism. The exception would be in some of the Zeiss that use an AbeConig prism (not sure of the spelling) this looks alike roof prism binocular but it performs like a porp prism. The roof prism is more compact (the tubes are in a straight line) with the Porp Prism style the front and back lensed are offset, so they are bulkier.

As far as Nikon glass, nikon has high end binoculars the are price about the same as Zeiss but they are hard to find, most dealers stock the low to mid range Nikon products.

Steiner is a good brand, they have updated their style over the past ten years.

 

One thing about binoculars, you really get what you pay for.

 

edit to add,

I looked at that Steiner at a trade show a few years ago. That is a nice binocular.

 

All good and valid comments, I agree completely, especially about getting what you pay for. My quandy is that I like nice things and I don't mind paying for them but out in the field stuffgets banged up so I try temper my proclivity for nice things with finding something I won't have a heart attack if I scratch or drop it. Ah the trials and tribulations of the working poor: if only I was born rich instead of merely good looking(ROTLMAO, yeah, I've got a mirror) :yikes::yikes:

Edited by Seasoned Warrior
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What power and what make are you binoculars" I am in the market for a set and most I see either ahve too small a field or are too low power and anything with either a large field or power is large physically. Those look quite compact in your kit.

 

Nikon 10x I forget the field, but obviously it's not going to be a lot with compact binoculars.

 

I live in Arizona, I don't trek through forests. I trek through deserts.

And this, is why I carry a black light:

www.abmedia.com/astro/res/scorpion-glow.jpg

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<<As far a Field of view, this is determined by the power of the binoclular. A lower power results in a wider field of view, a higher power results in a smaller field of view, an 8X will have a wider field than a 10X.>>

 

True only if the objective lens diameter stays the same. Another way to increase brightness is with optical coatings. I'm looking for a small binocular that I can slip into my pocket and Nikon makes some nice ones but at a price; like these. My personal preferences in glass is Nikon and Zeiss although the Minolta people have started their own glass factory. Briansnat suggested these and I like the combination of compactness and price. Usually the difference in price is as a result of the quality of the lenses so I'm trying to find some specs on the Safari. Astigmatism and spherical aberration are two of the items I usually consider in optics and both are annoying in inexpensive lenses.

As far as coatings, if the company places a coating on a compact binocular, they are going to put the same coating on the full size binoculars. So the binocular with the large lens is always going to be brighter that the binocular with the small lens. You also need to factor in Roof Prism vs Poro Prism binocular, it they use the same quality glass ect. the Poro prism if going to allow more light to pass than a roof prism. The exception would be in some of the Zeiss that use an AbeConig prism (not sure of the spelling) this looks alike roof prism binocular but it performs like a porp prism. The roof prism is more compact (the tubes are in a straight line) with the Porp Prism style the front and back lensed are offset, so they are bulkier.

As far as Nikon glass, nikon has high end binoculars the are price about the same as Zeiss but they are hard to find, most dealers stock the low to mid range Nikon products.

Steiner is a good brand, they have updated their style over the past ten years.

 

One thing about binoculars, you really get what you pay for.

 

edit to add,

I looked at that Steiner at a trade show a few years ago. That is a nice binocular.

 

All good and valid comments, I agree completely, especially about getting what you pay for. My quandy is that I like nice things and I don't mind paying for them but out in the field stuffgets banged up so I try temper my proclivity for nice things with finding something I won't have a heart attack if I scratch or drop it. Ah the trials and tribulations of the working poor: if only I was born rich instead of merely good looking(ROTLMAO, yeah, I've got a mirror) :yikes::yikes:

I like my 8X40 Zeiss, but I will not take them on my Kayak, I know the day I do I will lose them over the side.

I was able to afford the Zeiss because I was the binocular buyer to a small chain of outdoor equipment stores. When you work in a shop like that the manufactures offer you all kinds of big discount to by their

products.

I was also the GPS, Knife, Software and Sunglass buyer.

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I like my 8X40 Zeiss, but I will not take them on my Kayak, I know the day I do I will lose them over the side.

I was able to afford the Zeiss because I was the binocular buyer to a small chain of outdoor equipment stores. When you work in a shop like that the manufactures offer you all kinds of big discount to by their

products.

I was also the GPS, Knife, Software and Sunglass buyer.

 

Ok, so now I'm green with envy.

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As far as optics go... abolutely true you get what you pay for.

I have gone through dozens of $30 range bi-nocs, they are not as waterproof" as they say, maybe they can fight off a bit of rain, but they last about 3 seconds in the 1/4 inch of water on a duck-boat floor. If they are more "waterproof" then just dont bump them, let alone a drop from about waist high, then you'll need a face like Sloth from the Goonies to see a single image again LOL.

 

My dream bi-nocs are a nice 10x40 or 10x50 Stieners, ya can beat a bear to death with them LOL >>sigh<< someday when I get an extra $350 or so I guess

 

The compact kind about 10X are still good, in low light is where they are weak, but for size and daytime viewing they are just fine.

 

My advice, go the extra couple of $ for shockPROOF and water PROOF not just 'resistant', that way they can handle bumping around a pack, and wont fog up when you go from cold outside to warm car. They may only take a few seconds to fog up but days to clear ( I have put them on top of a lampshade to de-fog them and still took a few days)

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If I'm caching out in the wilderness, I carry a small back pack with the "10 Essentials". The 10 Essentials are:

 

1. Pocketknife

2. First Aid Kit

3. Extra (emergency set) of clothing

4. Rain Gear (Poncho/Jacket and Pants)

5. Water

6. Flashlight w/batteries

7. Trail Food

8. Matches and fire Starters

9. Sun / Insect protection

10. Map and Compass

 

Jeepergeo adds the following items:

 

11. Duct tape

12. Rope or parachute cord, about 50 feet

13. Two carabiners

14. Signal mirror

 

This list is pretty well defined, but I do vary it based on the locality. For example, if going into an area with a lot of water, I might change out Item 5. Water for a water purifier.

 

I carry all of this in a medium size Kelty day pack. Yeah, it weighs probably 15 pounds, but it's worth it knowing that I can handle just about anything that comes my way, and I will survive, and in a modicum of comfort at that.

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I like the gear lists. Some things I also carry are a sheet of little stickers to put on the log page with our team name and a geocaching logo beside it, disposable rubber gloves, hand sanitizer, a small mirror on a telescoping handle for looking in places I don't want to just put my hand into first as well as on top of areas I can reach but not see. I got a box of short pencils like you would use scoring at minature golf and keep some in my bag as well as a couple of different sizes of logs, and cheap pencil sharpeners and various sized ziplocks all for cache first aid. Thanks for the thread.

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Of these posts, I really don't see anything in here regarding Cache Maintenance. I'm pretty new at this but just going out today, I found that two of the three caches I visited were almost destroyed from water intrusion. Things I would have liked to have had with me to nurture these caches were perhaps:

 

-Ziplock sandwich-sized bags to put cache items in to protect them.

 

-A few log books to replace destroyed ones.

 

-A box of small pens/pencils to ensure every cache has a writing utensil.

 

-A small container of Silicone Sealant. This would work great to apply to the seals of the Cache containers to better water proof them.

 

That's just some things off the top of my head. I'm not really sure if it's proper etiquette to do maintenance on someone else's cache, but someone has to do it so that others can enjoy them. Am I right?

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