Cache Assembly - What's The Best Glue?

[+robbymcdobby]

I'm trying to assemble some cache containers for my next few hides, but I've encountered a problem. By asking this, I know my noob will be showing, but I'm asking it anyway. What is the best glue for caches?

 

More precisely, what is the best way to permanently attach things like magnets, velcro, miscellaneous camo, etc. to cache containers for hiding purposes?

 

I've tried rubber cement, a glue gun, and crazy glue. I've even tried melting surfaces together. However, after letting the caches dry, they do not hold together after I "test" them. By "test" I mean "give it a few shakes and light whacks. Usually, the magnets I attach to the caches (which aren't THAT strong) are able to rip themselves free of the adhesive holding them to the cache container whenever I stick the magnet on a magnetic surface.

 

So what's out there that works well?

[+StarBrand]

Some advice - get rare earth magnets and glue them inside the container not outside - just works better.

 

BTW - I use something called jb-weld.

 

edit to correct glue name

Edited December 19, 2007 by StarBrand

[+tabulator32]

Some advice - get rare earth magnets and glue them inside the container not outside - just works better.

 

BTW - I use something called j-weld.

 

This is the right stuff!

[+9Key]

Some advice - get rare earth magnets and glue them inside the container not outside - just works better.

 

BTW - I use something called jb-weld.

 

edit to correct glue name

Ditto. JB Weld will work for any non-porous surface. Permanent and totally weatherproof. You can even sand it and drill holes in it.

[+geowizerd]

If you want some really strong magnets, check out United Nuclear. You can even get some very interesting FTF prizes there, maybe some Uranium or Strontium 90, perhaps???

Edited December 19, 2007 by geowizerd

[+team moxiepup]

We've had good luck with silicone aquarium sealant, for most applications.

[Mag Magician]

If you decide to use c/a glue (crazy glue) at least go to a hobby shop and get the better kind that comes with an activator. Regular one part cyanoacrilate is brittle and doesn't hold worth s--t after a few weeks. The type sold for assembling model planes, or in woodworking supplies under the name of Miter Bond is much better. I have a cache glued to a Birch tree with Miter Bond that has been holding where all the other industrial glues have let go.

[+Jackalgirl]

I hear Gorilla Glue is pretty good for bonding all kinds of stuff together, but I've never actually stress-tested it, myself. Anyone else have any experience with it?

[+joranda]

Liquid nail works great too!

[+EScout]

The number one question is: what is the material of your container.

 

If metal or wood or stone, I would go with two-part epoxy like JB Weld. Get the 5 minute version for quick setup. Harbor Freight store has a no-name brand for 1/5 the price.

 

If the container is plastic, try the polyurethane glues such as Gorilla, Elmer's Ultimate or Visetite. These need water to cure use your spray/mister. Sand the plastic first or use abrasive cleanser and water.

Edited December 20, 2007 by EScout

[knowschad]

EScout is right-on. It TOTALLY depends on what you are gluing to what. The materials, the surface area, the weather conditions... this is a subject that cannot be generalized. Need specifics to give an educated answer.

[+Kit Fox]

Liquid nail works great too!

 

It works just fine:

 

 

From long term experience:

 

Crazy Glue = bad

Hot Glue gun = marginal

Rubber Cement = marginal

Liquid Nail = Good

 

Adhesive

[+MaplessInSeattle]

We had a number of issues with our first urban cache.

The magnets kept breaking the bonds of the glues.

Tried:

Superglue - what a joke

Epoxy - Nice, except the extreme cold made it brittle - cracked, and magnet broke free

Gorilla Glue - Good, but wasn't strong enough.

 

back to drawing board.

 

Decided to give the magnet a base. So I cut some wood to become a backing for the magnet, to give it support and more of a surface.

Glued container, to wood with Gorilla Glue, glued magnet to wood with gorilla glue, sealed entire area with epoxy. Woo! Success!

Basically, what it comes down to is three things.

Materials to be glued, Surface area, and stresses required to endure.

The final container has become our new standard for our future urban caches.

But what works for us may not work for you.

[RV'n Iowans]

3M Automotive Glue=available at auto parts stores

and J-B Weld.

[+sbell111]

It totally depends on the container, but I've had great results with gorilla glue, epoxy, and Goop.

[+eigengott]

what is the best way to permanently attach things like magnets, velcro, miscellaneous camo, etc. to cache containers for hiding purposes?

 

Screws.

[Mr.Yuck]

It totally depends on the container, but I've had great results with gorilla glue, epoxy, and Goop.

 

Gorilla Glue is a relatively new product, I'd be interested to see if that works. Tried 2-part epoxy a couple of times, it was definitely a no-go, at least in my case in the frigid climate of upstate N.Y.

[+briansnat]

I'm trying to assemble some cache containers for my next few hides, but I've encountered a problem. By asking this, I know my noob will be showing, but I'm asking it anyway. What is the best glue for caches?

 

More precisely, what is the best way to permanently attach things like magnets, velcro, miscellaneous camo, etc. to cache containers for hiding purposes?

 

I've tried rubber cement, a glue gun, and crazy glue. I've even tried melting surfaces together. However, after letting the caches dry, they do not hold together after I "test" them. By "test" I mean "give it a few shakes and light whacks. Usually, the magnets I attach to the caches (which aren't THAT strong) are able to rip themselves free of the adhesive holding them to the cache container whenever I stick the magnet on a magnetic surface.

 

So what's out there that works well?

 

 

I've tried attaching magnets using epoxy, Gorilla Glue, Marine Goop, PC7, Crazy Glue and others. Gorilla Glue seems to work the best, with Goop second, but they all eventually fell apart. Winter seems to be harsh on adhesives.

 

Now I just use powerful magnets and put them inside the container. All they need then is some duct tape to hold them in place. The only drawback with doing it this way is that any metal swag sticks to the magnets.

[+sbell111]

It totally depends on the container, but I've had great results with gorilla glue, epoxy, and Goop.

Gorilla Glue is a relatively new product, I'd be interested to see if that works. Tried 2-part epoxy a couple of times, it was definitely a no-go, at least in my case in the frigid climate of upstate N.Y.

Like I said, it totally depends on what you are gluing.

[+Team Cotati]

It totally depends on the container, but I've had great results with gorilla glue, epoxy, and Goop.

Gorilla Glue is a relatively new product, I'd be interested to see if that works. Tried 2-part epoxy a couple of times, it was definitely a no-go, at least in my case in the frigid climate of upstate N.Y.

Like I said, it totally depends on what you are gluing.

 

Gorilla Glue is the very best. And it really isn't all that 'new'. Home Depot has been carrying it for over five years that I personally am aware of.

[+wesleykey]

Gorilla glue, JB Weld, or a two part epoxy work best.

[+JohnTee]

I've gotten to the point of using Gorilla Glue almost exclusively. Had magnets glued to a micro; first attempt was 'Super Glue' (CA) and didn't last long. Second attempt was epoxy, similar result. used Gorilla Glue and have had very good results. Be sure to rough up both surfaces being glued. Nothing like smooth, polished steel and a smooth magnet surface for a tough join to make. You can use coarse sandpaper, an awl or the edge of a screwdriver to make scratches in the surfaces and give the glue something to stick to.

 

Another cache I did, and admittedly it's not a lot of weight, but I glued a link of chain inside a fence post cap, to hang a micro beneath. Roughed up the inside of the cap first. It's held nicely for over a year now.

 

One other thing about Gorilla Glue, it 'foams' up as it dries. This can be a problem if you don't want the glue visible. You may need to experiment a little bit to figure out how much to use if foaming becomes a problem. You can shape/shave the excess with a knife and it actually gives a nice irregular, paintable surface, so might help with camo.

 

JohnTee

[+sbell111]

Gorilla glue, JB Weld, or a two part epoxy work best.

Gorilla Glue works very well when gluing a hard object to another hard object. However, if the cache container has any flex to it, such as a plastic container, the bond will eventually break.