Locking ammo cans

[+9Key]

Happy holidays everybody!

 

I'm trying to devise a way to add a padlock to a couple of the 7.62mm ammo cans that I have. I'd rather not have to drill a hole in the can but I'm not sure there's a way around it.

In the past I've purchased a locking bar off the Internet but it only worked with the larger cans because of the hole they have in the latch. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for locking the smaller cans?

 

Thanks!

Edited December 6, 2007 by 9Key

[+Jeep_Dog]

1. In my professional life, to maintain the H2O proof features, a standard lock clasp welded to the can seemed to do a pretty good job.

 

2. For a drill on just the ammo can lever:

 

http://www.themagtool.com/ammocanlock.html

 

3. A $8-10 solution with no drill:

 

http://www.imsplus.com/ims3.html

 

Hope this helps.

Edited December 6, 2007 by Jeep_Dog

[+9Key]

1. In my professional life, to maintain the H2O proof features, a standard lock clasp welded to the can seemed to do a pretty good job.

 

2. For a drill on just the ammo can lever:

 

http://www.themagtool.com/ammocanlock.html

 

3. A $8-10 solution with no drill:

 

http://www.imsplus.com/ims3.html

 

Hope this helps.

The first item is no longer available for sale and the second one is for larger cans. That the bar I've used and it works great, but I'm looking for something for the smaller cans. Good try!

[bogleman]

could you post a picture of the can you ate trying to modify - I'm more of a visual guy and searching the net shows far too many styles.

 

this is drilled but is not a small can

[+BlueDeuce]

I have a local metal work shop that will do custom jobs for me at a decent price. The last one was a staircase railing into my basement. I tell them what I'm looking for and they come up with a good solution.

 

I'd probably go with something like a metal band with a slot and the 'eye' that you put the lock through. I'd let them decide if it should be a separate piece completely encircling the can (under/through the handle) or if it could be spot welded to the side. I'd be surprised if cost more than 20 bucks.

[+BlueDeuce]

this is drilled but is not a small can

 

Hey, there you go.

[+BBWolf+3Pigs]

The first item is no longer available for sale and the second one is for larger cans. That the bar I've used and it works great, but I'm looking for something for the smaller cans. Good try!

 

Is the problem with the bar that the smaller cans have a larger hole in the flap? Could you fashion a piece of sheet metal that fits behind the flap, with a hole that accepts the pin for the lock?

[+ArcherDragoon]

Hey,

 

What bogleman did is what I have done with one of my caches...if you get the bolts tightened down really well...the ammo can will still be water tight...you could always add a little silicone or similar sealant to keep it that way. So far the only issue I have been has been the locks being tough to get open at times.

 

Later,

ArcherDragoon

[+briansnat]

Here is what I did and it was totally waterproof.

 

Drilled a hole under the latch. Took an eye bolt one size larger than the hole, put a nut all the way on to the end then a metal washer, then a rubber one. Screwed the eye bolt all the way in. Took another rubber washer, then a metal washer and put them on the inside and then a nut and tightened.

 

 

[continental drifter]

If you go to Majors supply and surplus.com They sell an ammo can lock.So theres nothing to drill or manufacture.

[+welch]

1. In my professional life, to maintain the H2O proof features, a standard lock clasp welded to the can seemed to do a pretty good job.

 

2. For a drill on just the ammo can lever:

 

http://www.themagtool.com/ammocanlock.html

 

3. A $8-10 solution with no drill:

 

http://www.imsplus.com/ims3.html

 

Hope this helps.

The first item is no longer available for sale and the second one is for larger cans. That the bar I've used and it works great, but I'm looking for something for the smaller cans. Good try!

Could you buy/make the second one, and just put a large fender washer under the latch?

[magellan315]

One suggestion of your going to do it yourself and drill holes in addition to a rubber washer use a Lock Washer. When you tighten down the nut the two open end compress and prevent the nut from vibrating loose.

[+StarBrand]

Based on briansnats advice (pictured above), I crafted one a few years ago that has remain perfectly dry despite 1 flood over the area.

[+9Key]

Here is what I did and it was totally waterproof.

 

Drilled a hole under the latch. Took an eye bolt one size larger than the hole, put a nut all the way on to the end then a metal washer, then a rubber one. Screwed the eye bolt all the way in. Took another rubber washer, then a metal washer and put them on the inside and then a nut and tightened.

 

 

That looks pretty good. I'll make a trip to Home Depot this weekend and see if I can get that to work.

Thanks!

[+eagletrek]

could you post a picture of the can you ate trying to modify - I'm more of a visual guy and searching the net shows far too many styles.

 

this is drilled but is not a small can

 

We used this same technique for years when I was in the military and it works for most types of cans. We would weld the loop to the can instead of drilling through the can. Just a thought.

Edited December 7, 2007 by eagletrek

[+Arnold Evrkachen]

I have a friend who is a machinist. He welded a link from a chain right where all the pics show the eyebolts or U-bolts bolted on. Perfectly lockable and no holes, therefore waterproof. Sorry I don't have a picture.

[+GIDEON-X]

I have a series of Access Caches.....that have combo locks on them So make them lock-able.......For $1.60 I get all the hardware that is needed (True-Value) I use tow eye bolts, one for the lock, one for a chain (8' of chain to secure the ammo can ) I drill 2 holes, assembly the hardware (wet--silicone sealer)........the whole operation takes about 20 min. (This includes getting the tools out and putting them away).....

 

Edited December 8, 2007 by GIDEON-X

[+linuxxpert]

Here is what I did and it was totally waterproof.

 

Drilled a hole under the latch. Took an eye bolt one size larger than the hole, put a nut all the way on to the end then a metal washer, then a rubber one. Screwed the eye bolt all the way in. Took another rubber washer, then a metal washer and put them on the inside and then a nut and tightened.

 

 

 

Uhmmm looks like you can just unscrew the eye bolt, especially with the lock on there for leverage?

[+briansnat]

Here is what I did and it was totally waterproof.

 

Drilled a hole under the latch. Took an eye bolt one size larger than the hole, put a nut all the way on to the end then a metal washer, then a rubber one. Screwed the eye bolt all the way in. Took another rubber washer, then a metal washer and put them on the inside and then a nut and tightened.

 

 

 

Uhmmm looks like you can just unscrew the eye bolt, especially with the lock on there for leverage?

 

Possibly. I know I needed a wrench to take it off. Even if you can just unscrew it, it's not like we're keeping gold in the things. They are cache trinkets. If someone wants to circumvent the puzzle by defeating the lock, it's their loss. As long as they put it back for the next person it doesn't bother me.

[+linuxxpert]

Here is what I did and it was totally waterproof.

 

Drilled a hole under the latch. Took an eye bolt one size larger than the hole, put a nut all the way on to the end then a metal washer, then a rubber one. Screwed the eye bolt all the way in. Took another rubber washer, then a metal washer and put them on the inside and then a nut and tightened.

 

 

 

Uhmmm looks like you can just unscrew the eye bolt, especially with the lock on there for leverage?

 

Possibly. I know I needed a wrench to take it off. Even if you can just unscrew it, it's not like we're keeping gold in the things. They are cache trinkets. If someone wants to circumvent the puzzle by defeating the lock, it's their loss. As long as they put it back for the next person it doesn't bother me.

Good point. Another idea is to use some permanent thread locker or epoxy on the threads if you dont have access to a welder. Cachers have been known to dissemble containers and just leave them like that.

Edited December 8, 2007 by linuxxpert

[+Rebel]

Here is what I did and it was totally waterproof.

 

Drilled a hole under the latch. Took an eye bolt one size larger than the hole, put a nut all the way on to the end then a metal washer, then a rubber one. Screwed the eye bolt all the way in. Took another rubber washer, then a metal washer and put them on the inside and then a nut and tightened.

 

 

 

I did much the same for one the state rangers required to have a lock on it. However, I used marine sealant at the hole for better water protection and a cap nut on the inside so folks' fingers wouldn't get nicked.

[+jackrock]

 

Uhmmm looks like you can just unscrew the eye bolt, especially with the lock on there for leverage?

 

JB Weld to hold it all in place?

 

[+beeandjay]

There really isn't any need to drill, weld, screw or anything like that. I have a smaller ammo can that has a large hole on the flap. I just went and bought a lock that wasn't the traditional shape, then looped it through the hole in the flap and the bar on the can. It doesn't undo the flap enough for the cans seal to be cracked...

food for thought

[+Lil Devil]

There really isn't any need to drill, weld, screw or anything like that. I have a smaller ammo can that has a large hole on the flap. I just went and bought a lock that wasn't the traditional shape, then looped it through the hole in the flap and the bar on the can. It doesn't undo the flap enough for the cans seal to be cracked...

food for thought

 

Can you post a picture?

[+WRITE SHOP ROBERT]

Here is what I did and it was totally waterproof.

 

Drilled a hole under the latch. Took an eye bolt one size larger than the hole, put a nut all the way on to the end then a metal washer, then a rubber one. Screwed the eye bolt all the way in. Took another rubber washer, then a metal washer and put them on the inside and then a nut and tightened.

 

 

You can add one of those "Cap" style nuts on the end inside, so nobody can get cut on the end of the bolt