+Aeowyn & Koric Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I've read several logs and many people refer to a personal search or hunting method to zero in on a cache. Does anyone want to share their unique methods of honing in on a cache? Thanks, Koric Quote Link to comment
+ZSandmann Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 (edited) Well first I walk the exact opposite direction of the cache, then bushwhack right past the obvious trail, find all the briars in the area, then sit down on the ground frustrated only to see the cache right beside where I put down my swag bag. I call this my drunken bee dance. Edited February 7, 2007 by ZSandmann Quote Link to comment
+StarBrand Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I get to within about 20 feet of where the GPS arrow is leading me and then start looking for likely hiding spots given the size of the cache. If I don't find it within 10 minutes or so, I will pull the GPS back out and get myself close to Ground Zero and then stand there for a minute or two to let the GPS reading settle down - move a bit to adjust. Then put the GPS away and start looking again. Working in slow concentric circles around my Ground Zero until I am 30 or so feet away. If I still Haven't found it - time to read the hint and any logs I have. If the hint is a good one - I can usually find it within another 10 minutes or so. If the hints didn't help - back to searching. Check for GZ again and expand the search out to 40 to 50 feet. Sometimes I just stop and look at things again. Get an overview of the area and look from a few differnet angles. If all else has failed - I go home and log a DNF. Later I will take my wife with me so that the cache will reveal itself within 30 seconds or so.... Repeat the above as necessary for difficulty. Quote Link to comment
+Aeowyn & Koric Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 I get to within about 20 feet of where the GPS arrow is leading me and then start looking for likely hiding spots given the size of the cache. If I don't find it within 10 minutes or so, I will pull the GPS back out and get myself close to Ground Zero and then stand there for a minute or two to let the GPS reading settle down - move a bit to adjust. Then put the GPS away and start looking again. Working in slow concentric circles around my Ground Zero until I am 30 or so feet away. If I still Haven't found it - time to read the hint and any logs I have. If the hint is a good one - I can usually find it within another 10 minutes or so. If the hints didn't help - back to searching. Check for GZ again and expand the search out to 40 to 50 feet. Sometimes I just stop and look at things again. Get an overview of the area and look from a few differnet angles. If all else has failed - I go home and log a DNF. Later I will take my wife with me so that the cache will reveal itself within 30 seconds or so.... Repeat the above as necessary for difficulty. I have a Garmin 76CSx. I've been changing to off rode mode and then use the map until I'm within 20 feet of the cache coordinates. Do you use the compass then or at all to drill down or? Quote Link to comment
+StarBrand Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I get to within about 20 feet of where the GPS arrow is leading me and then start looking for likely hiding spots given the size of the cache. If I don't find it within 10 minutes or so, I will pull the GPS back out and get myself close to Ground Zero and then stand there for a minute or two to let the GPS reading settle down - move a bit to adjust. Then put the GPS away and start looking again. Working in slow concentric circles around my Ground Zero until I am 30 or so feet away. If I still Haven't found it - time to read the hint and any logs I have. If the hint is a good one - I can usually find it within another 10 minutes or so. If the hints didn't help - back to searching. Check for GZ again and expand the search out to 40 to 50 feet. Sometimes I just stop and look at things again. Get an overview of the area and look from a few differnet angles. If all else has failed - I go home and log a DNF. Later I will take my wife with me so that the cache will reveal itself within 30 seconds or so.... Repeat the above as necessary for difficulty. I have a Garmin 76CSx. I've been changing to off rode mode and then use the map until I'm within 20 feet of the cache coordinates. Do you use the compass then or at all to drill down or? Compass screen only after selecting the cache I want and hitting goto - the map will have you doing a drunken bee dance in the last few hundred feet before the cache. Off road is also correct so that it doesn't keep leading you back to the nearest mapped road. Quote Link to comment
+wesleykey Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Don't walk about trying to get your GPS to say 0 feet to the cache. Common newbie error. When you get within 20-30 feet, lay down the GPSr on top of a rock or on your pack and start looking around. If you don't spot the cache within 5 minutes, check the GPS again. It may have settled out to 75 feet way, and you can then walk a few feet closer and try again. Eventually you will get to ground zero and should be able to spot the cache. Quote Link to comment
+jackrock Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 In a Heinlein book I read once was the sentence "When in danger or in doubt, run in circles, scream and shout". The danger part may not apply but I often feel like running in circles, screaming and shouting. Maybe this would work better for me. Quote Link to comment
+Jhwk Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 My standard reply: 1. Use the compass screen versus the map screen. Tells you where to go and how far left to go. 2. Rather than trying to get to the 0 point on your GPSr (basically standing on top of the cache) stop about 50 feet from the expected location. Then stop looking at your GPS and start looking at your location. Look for the obvious clues to the cache location. Piles of sticks, rocks, dead hollow tree, or stump in plain view. Don't forget to look at the size of the cache you are looking for. Nothing like thinking you are hunting a regular sized cache, when it is actually a micro-cache. 3. Start out with the easiest dificulty caches (D/T). So go for the 1/1 to 2/2 caches first. 4. Have fun and enjoy the great Winter weather... Quote Link to comment
+cache chasers Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 I have my GPS alarm set to go off when we get with-in 100 feet of the cache. When it goes off we stop and everyone guesses where they think the cache is. It gives the GPS time to settle in and also adds a little humor to the chase. Quote Link to comment
+badlands Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 When I get to less than 100 feet I start looking for likely hiding spots. If it doesn't turn up in the obvious spots, I'll circle around a but and look in the less obvious spots. If that doesn't work, I'll wait for the GPSr to settle down and do a more detailed search in the target area. Quote Link to comment
CoyoteRed Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 (As used with a Magellan SporTrak.) I use the compass screen, and after determining the closest and most appropriate place to go off trail, I try to head straight towards the cache. At about 75' to go I slow and start looking for obvious hiding spots. The reason I slow is because of the sling-shot effect on these units. After I get close I clip the unit to a limb to allow it to start averaging. I use my hiking stick to gently probe the likely hiding spots while keeping in mind the size of the container. After a few minutes of not finding the cache, I return to the GPS unit to check distance and bearing. Using a compass and a honed judgment of distance, I head to where the unit is telling it is zeroing out. I don't take the unit with me so I won't spoil its averaging. Repeat. If the unit is telling me a distance of greater than 75' or so, then I'll move it and start over. I've found that many times I'm better at standing at ground zero and visually studying the area in a circle for likely spots than I am probing through every likely spot. I'm looking for places that have been disturbed. This works better with recent finds where someone has not gone through with a scorched earth approach. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment
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