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Compass To Find Cache


pilgrim4JC

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Use the bearing numbers off your GPS. Really, though, it is better to just start looking around.

 

The bearing numbers should indicate the direction the cache is from your location - or where the GPS THINKS the cache is. At 20 feet, I haven't found it all the helpful except when my GPS & the actual cache coordinates are very close.

 

/Former compass user

Edited by New England n00b
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I use a compass. My GPS doesn't have one of them fancy digital compasses built in. So, like many, it doesn't give you a a heading unless you're moving. I find the compass handy, as I don't have to start walking in a direction to get the GPS woken up. I just get the bearing-to-cache from the GPS, look at my compass, pick a tree/rock/barn/nuclear reactor cooling tower in the distance and walk to it.

 

I figure I spend less time looking at a device and more time enjoying the hike.

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I searched for a cache recently that said the cache was 18 paces at 300° Magnetic from the "bearing tree."

 

I set my Vista C to Magnetic, looked in the direction of 300°, and then walked the 18 paces.

 

It was a fun, memorable cache to find . . . B)

 

However, once you are within 20 feet of a cache, you just need to put the GPSr away and start looking for likely hiding places.

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Pilgram-I think you missed the point. If you're within 20 feet the compass won't do you any good because the info from the GPS is erratic. If you base the compass on the erratic GPS info, you have an erratic compass point to work from. Once you are that close, the inherent error of the GPS does not really help much. So put both it and your compass away and start looking.

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I really appreciate the advice. I think I can figure out how to do it now from your posts. Just watch the gps compass bearing point and then set my handheld compass to that bearing. Sounds easy enough. Thanks all

Sorta - your GPS should give you a 'Bearing' number. This is not the same as the compass. Ignore any graphical compass on the GPS unless you have a GPS that has an electronic compass. A direction pointer is unfortunately NOT the same thing.

 

What GPS model do you have?

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I use a compass to quickly locate ground zero if I'm having trouble locating something. By knowing what coords you want to get to, vs the ones the GPSr says you're at, the compass will quickly tell you which way to move to get them to match. If your GPSr doesn't have a compass built in, having one on hand is almost mandatory, IMHO. Once you find ground zero, it gives you a base to start searching from. At that point I put down (or hang up) my GPSr and use it as the center point of my search circle, which widens until I score. (Well, unless I'm in an urban area where people could steal it, but that's another thread.)

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I've used a compass several times to zero in. Basically what I do is get a bearing from the GPS and then use my Suunto compass to shoot the bearing. Then I move around get another bearing, shoot the bearing with compass. Doing that 3 or 4 times will give you a point where the bearings cross and you can get remarkably close to the actual cache site.

 

JDandDD

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I use a compass when my map does not show me exactly where the cache is located. I hike to the nearest point that I can identify from an aerial photo and then shoot a bearing from there. Shoot a bearing? Line up the edge of the baseplate connecting the spot you are, (on the map) and the spot where you want to be. (the cache) Twist the housing to align with magnetic north. Lift the compass off the map align the needle with north on the housing and follow the directional arrow for the correct number of paces to the box... sign in. Don't know how this applies to use with a GPS.. I don't have one ;)

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Making an assumption that the coordinates for a cache location are exact ... Is a bad idea. Plus or minus 30 feet is a normal margin of error. Within 20 feet you should be putting down the GPS and compass and start looking.

 

Where the compass comes in handy is when you are getting a great GPS reading in the open field and the cache lies 100 feet into the deep woods with terrible GPS readings. I always tell newbies the magic phrase ....Distance and Bearing! When the GPS is giving you good readings pay attention to Distance and Bearing. When reading and updates are poor, rely on the past good readings and do not wander around like a druken duck. :lol: ImpalaBob

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Making an assumption that the coordinates for a cache location are exact ... Is a bad idea.  Plus or minus 30 feet is a normal margin of error.  Within 20 feet you should be putting down the GPS and compass and start looking.

 

Where the compass comes in handy is when you are getting a great GPS reading in the open field and the cache lies 100 feet into the deep woods with terrible GPS readings.  I always tell newbies the magic phrase ....Distance and Bearing!  When the GPS is giving you good readings pay attention to Distance and Bearing.  When reading and updates are poor, rely on the past good readings and do not wander around like a druken duck.  :lol: ImpalaBob

Yes even if you are using a GPS, having a compass along could be a great help. You should also find out what the declination is for your general area and memorize it.. and also know how it changes from east to west in the area that you normally cover. There is a way to determine declination in a specific area in the terrain with a map and compass (it can change in a few hundred yards under special conditions) but I doubt anyone really cares that much here. If you are only using the compass for a few feet it won't matter, but if you are shooting 1000 foot bushwhacks it will.

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Of late, my technique for most "park and grab" type caches and a few that are actually in the woods, is to park as close as possible using my mobile laptop rig, then clicking the measuring tool from my GPS position to the cache plot and setting my compass to bearing and pacing off distance.

 

I leave my GPS in the car.

 

Sometimes I don't even bother with the compass.

 

It makes otherwise mundane parking lot micros a little more fun.

 

I am currently working on the technique for use in the woods and have had some success.

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