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Type "torx" into the search bar at the top of this page.... I get 37 results.

I still think it's poor design to force someone to open their device and expose the logic board in order to replace the battery. Garmin could have made a more user-friendly swappable battery that doesn't require buying extra tools (most people don't have a torx screwdriver just lying around at home).

I regularly get two to three days of use from my GPSMAP 66sr before it gets low enough to need recharging. But this is never really an issue, as I have to sleep at some point each day, during which time I can connect an external charger of my liking to 'top-off' the battery. In practice, I almost never see my GPSMAP 66sr drop below 50% charge. This is a false argument, and has been covered several times here already. Six torx screws and 5 minutes of your time is all that is required to replace the battery yourself. Of course, if you are uncomfortable with that, you can pay a premium to allow someone else to do it for you. Those who wish to find difficulty and adversity in life, will.

When Atlas mentioned changing batteries in the field, I think he might have been exaggerating. Who in their right mind is going to carry such a battery with exposed wires and connectors with them in their pack where it can get banged up and damaged. These parts aren't designed for that sort of thing. Not to mention, if you're constantly taking apart your device to swap batteries, it's going to wear down the seal and compromise the waterproofing. I suspect he was just making a point so that when the battery only holds 4 hours worth of charge in 4 years, you can swap it out with a fresh one. My concern with batteries is that buying 3rd party supplies comes with risks. I've used off-brand batteries just fine. But I've also had them fail on me, and I know of others who have had them fail in ways that damaged their equipment. No-name brands from countries with less stringent consumer safety laws don't tend to have a high level of quality assurance testing. Then, there's the issue of what to do when your battery runs out and you're in the field. It really is nice when I'm backpacking to just swap out a pair of AA batteries rather than have to tether my GPS to a charging block. If Garmin is going to continue down this path and design the next Oregon model with a Lithium-ion battery, I'd prefer it be swappable like the Montana 700 so I can buy a second for quick switches when I'm on the trail. I mean, who carries a Torx screwdriver in their packs? Finally, there's the issue of the USB port. Garmin has switched from mini-USB to the less durable micro-USB. Currently, I only plug in once a week to update geocaches and transfer any new tracks to Basecamp. And while I don't use my GPS nearly as often as I do my cell phone, the constant plugging and unplugging has taken its toll on the USB port to the point where my old phone only charges in precarious positions and won't keep a connection to transfer data over USB. If Garmin joins 2017 and outfits their devices with USB-c ports, then maybe it won't be such an issue. As it is, we know that older Garmin units can last up to 15 years or more in usefulness as evidenced by all the people who still insist on using their 60csx and Vista Hcx. I would hate for the limitation on the lifespan of these newer units to come down to the battery or the USB charging port.

It is when you drop one of the torx screws onto a medium pile carpet! Time to go to the caching toolkit for a magnet! I noted above that you said changing orientation from vertical to horizontal on the 65s dropped signal by 80%, and that you had hoped firmware might overcome that. Don't think there's any hope for that. Sounds far more like an antenna orientation issue. Unlike the antenna designs on the non-helical ("quad helix") styles that lay flat to the board, and like to be held flat, my experience with older helical antenna units (e.g., 76) was that they preferred an upright orientation for signal strength.

Only for those who are unable (or not willing) to unscrew six torx fasteners and disconnect a single 4 -pin push-on connector. Only for those who insist on making life any harder than it already is. For everyone else, there is no issue or concern. Why would anyone 'hack something on to the 66sr' when an identical replacement battery is already available from multiple online sources? Only those who like to make life harder than it really is. No, I don't 'Got' any comment. I 'have' some comments, and they are posted above.

Well, if you can't handle six torx screws and a single 4 pin push on connector when the time comes.....

Greetings, after an unhappy morning on the phone to a belligerent Garmin Australia concerning the buttons on the Oregon and their propensity to fall off like a chad, I have discovered the part on eBay. It appears that the entire front part including the rubber bumper is already available, which seems a better option than just cutting out a bit of the rubber and replacing it. I've taken the back screws off with a T6 driver, but now it appears that there are two more screws that hold the circuit board in but I'm unable to tell what size or type they are they may be Torx or Pentalobe, as they are smaller and in quite firm I don't want to attempt to move them unless I"m certain of the correct size as it will be easy to strip. Below are the two options, I don't really understand the point of just cutting the rubber out rather than replacing the front. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Rubber-Power-button-part-switch-for-Garmin-Oregon-600-600T-650-650T/312647906211?hash=item48cb4473a3:g:u6cAAOSwBQVc-9bx https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-case-part-with-rubber-buttons-for-Garmin-Oregon-750t-700-600-650t-repair/263346795075?hash=item3d50b13243:g:SKYAAOSwkIRc~mkr

Forgive me if I'm late to the game on this one but I've identified the point of contact inside the Oregon 650 case that generates the squeak and wanted to share. Contrary to what I first thought the squeaking isn't a result of the shells rubbing. The rub point is actually between the circuit board and the main shell. If you take out the six torx screws the back half of the shell pops off. Then, in the squeaky corner (upper right if looking at the PCB with the screen side on the table) take a very thin piece of plastic, rubber, or small piece of electrical tape and place it between the edge of the circuit board and a small raised margin along the inside of the shell. See image below. I suggested some time ago that you can simply loosen the torx screws ever so slightly on the squeaky side and it will mitigate the squeak. And while that will work I have no idea on the effect it has on the o-ring and if it maintains a seal. This way you can re-tighten the torx properly and get to the heart of the problem.

I have a whole slew of Garmin GPS units, my favorite one is the 2730 with the physical pushbuttons on the front. next best favorite was the 660 because it has an internal FM modulator... I ride Goldwing motorcycles, and being able to hear the GPS thru the radio's dash speakers was great! but, the 2730 won't stay powered up because the cable connector is loose from too many years of trucking down the highways. And, cables for GPS units are Very Finicky. More so that the average cellphone or other USB device. With that said, I am a brand new user, and looking for an answer to a specific question. What is the Torx Screwdriver size to remove the screws? T4 is too big, and that is the smallest one I have. I want to open up my 2797 and add an audio output cable across the speaker terminals. so wish that Garmin had not omitted that 3.5mm jack. Now, to the Main Topic: Garmin Support: The folks there are Script Readers, and their responses are guided by very narrow parameters. If you have Software Problems, they can usually walk you through a fix. If you have Hardware Problems, then you will receive the answer I got today: "Sorry, but all hardware designs questions are considered Propitiatory and Confidential" All I wanted to know, is the size of the Torx Screwdriver needed to open the case. The reply I got after the 'confidential message was' you will void the warranty if you open the GPS. No lie Sherlock, I had already gotten past that problem, it is a Refurb.... all I want is Audio out of the GPS. so, again, anyone know what size the screws are in the case for the 27xx series Nuvi GPS units?

You can buy replacement batteries at many online sources in the $10 to $20 range. Some of them include a tool kit with the small torx screw driver and pry tools needed to open the case. It is a relatively easy procedure to replace the battery. Thanks alandb. That sounds like the solution I'm looking for.

I suspect if you replace the battery in your nuvi 1450 in may come alive again. It is not uncommon for a nuvi to not power on even when connected to USB power if the battery is totally depleted. You could try to connect it to a USB wall charger and leave it overnight .. it just may come back to life. But if it does, it probably still needs a new battery. You can buy replacement batteries at many online sources in the $10 to $20 range. Some of them include a tool kit with the small torx screw driver and pry tools needed to open the case. It is a relatively easy procedure to replace the battery.

I promised a while back to update my success (or lack of) changing the battery in my aging Nuvi 660. I bought the battery from batteryship.com a while back (more than a month ago). It's been sitting around. Finally I decided to tackle it yesterday, but to my dismay, the free tools that came with the battery doesn't work. The battery came with 2 torx drivers (T5 and T6), one slotted head and one Philips screwdriver, and a plastic tool for prying open cases. Apparently, the Nuvi requires a T4 torx. Something to be aware of if you decide to buy from batteryship.com. Now to see if someone in the office can loan me one.

My unit looks like the one in the 255 video. I removed the label last night to reviel 2 very small torx screws. Now I need to find the correct torx driver to get them out. There are a couple of ebay sales that say that they include the necessary tools. I just didnt want to buy a battery and have to solder it in. I have no idea why the factory battery doesnt hold a charge very well. Im guessing that it wasnt discharged properly/stored fully charged/etc.

quintios was asking me how to repair the Colorado. It had been awhile, so I decided to take mine apart and provide some guidance. First, I will say that if the problem is just an intermittent USB connection, I would first try bending in the USB external support and get more pressure on the terminals. Most of the time, this is the problem. First remove the battery cover, batteries and SD card. Then remove the 6 screws. These are Torx T6. Lift the back half of the case off. Be careful to watch the case seal. It may stick to either side and you don't want to break it. It is best to keep it on the bottom half in the groove. Lift the brown cable clamp on the ribbon cable for the barometer and pull the ribbon cable free. The back half of the case is now loose and you can put it aside. Remove the two ribbon cables by lifting the brown clamps. The left one is the USB and the large middle one is the Rock and Roller. Release the external antenna connector. Just pry down to pop it off. Now you need to lift the main board and screen from the case. The main board is held in with a catch on either side that the screws go into. Pry between the grey case and the brown center screw pieces. The main board will come up and free. Keep the screen with it to avoid disconnecting the screen cable. Note that the main antenna is soldered to the board and unless you are replacing it, leave it attached and just swing the board to the side. Remove the two T6 screws. These hold in the top black cover. With these free, pull the top cover off of the front case. You now have access to the rest of the parts. The antenna can be repaired or changed out and you can access the USB/antenna board. The USB board is epoxied into the recess. Cut the epoxy, if you need to replace or repair the board.

You know - google exists right? with one search, I found listings for batteries, and even a you tube video showing you how to replace the battery. 1. You don't need a huge memory card for your palm M515 unless you have a lot of other apps installed, or you are running around with THOUSANDS of caches downloaded from cachemate. I have had a M515 for years and still have no extra memory in the unit. 1000 caches will generally run you under 2 MB of memory. 2. You can replace the battery - but it wil void your warranty. I don't think these things have warranties any more. 3. For replacement batteries, instructions and the tools required: You can go here (what I did last year) Or here, they have a large selection Or you can use my Google search here and start your own quest. 4. Final notes - to open the palm's case you will need two things, a torx driver and a slim blade, like a small flat tip screw driver. Once you remove the torx screws, you will have to pry the back cover off. Also, the battery is held in place with strong glue or double sided tape. Also, when puchasing, I would go with the 850 (original) or 1000 mAh battery. Just my preference. hope this helps.

I've had my Montana out in 20 below zero (F) on numerous occasions and it functioned just fine. Sounds to me like the connector from the screen input to the PCB came loose. A hard bump or jar at just the right direction, in theory, could have caused the symptoms your experiencing even with a Gizzmovest case. As far as I know this isn't a common issue. I'll advise against it but you COULD open the case with the appropriate torx driver and verify/reconnect the screen input connection to the PCB. It is however advisable to call Garmin support.

Ahh, the old familiar Garmin squeak. I've had several units in the past, 62, Montana, Oregon 650, that have been quite the little squeakers. I've never heard about it on the eTrex line but it doesn't surprise me. In all my previous cases the squeak manifests as a symptom of the PCB rubbing against the unit's casing on the inside. I'll surmise it's a quality control issue and that the tolerances of machine x at the factory get a little soft after a few hundred or thousand units. It's not really a big deal unless, your like me, you are annoyed by it. In all my experiences I've taken a torx screwdriver and have opened the unit's case to place a small bit of tape between the PCB and case at the offending rub site to stop the noise. It works but I don't recommend doing it unless your sure of yourself and don't mind voiding the warranty. Garmin has, in the past, taken a bifurcated stance on the issue. In some cases Garmin has been known to issue an RA for a replacement and in other cases they simply deny it's a defect that effects the normal operation of the unit. While it indeed doesn't effect the normal operation it is ANNOYING as #&%@! You should try and call Garmin to see what stance their taking at the moment. If they're not in a replacing mood then you can either hold your breath and dive in to repair the squeak yourself or learn to ignore it. Either way, good luck!

My unit has been solid, sounds like a power problem, the faded screen when you have a failure is the clue there. I'd personally be reluctant to open the unit, it might be very crowded in there. My 550t has six torx screws around the perimeter so it looks easy enough to open, maybe it's just loose solder.

Hi Hugh, I got it fixed. Once you remove the back you will see the main board. The ribbon connectors are all easily released by lifting the clamp gently, it's the brown collar around the base of the ribbon. They only lift about half a millimetre. There are two black parts that look to be part of the case sides half way down either side of the board. They take the middle torx screw holding the back on on either side. They are actually separate to the board & the case. If you flex the sides of the case firmly they separate from the side. They have a tooth that clips into the inner side of the case. Spread the case side firmly but carefully and lift the corner of the board so that one side clips clear then the other. There's a white plug going onto the base of the antenna socket on top that just clips off. The antenna is a real PITA. The antenna cable on mine was soldered straight to the board. It's actually a very fine coax, and the copper on the board is a massive heatsink for a fine soldering iron tip so it's a bit tricky. Being coax you don't want to create a short by heating the shield and melting the inner insulator. It's alot more heat resistant than I thought it would be but I would take great care here. Maybe mine was because it was a refurbed unit, but I reckon they would have plugged this when new. It doesn't figure in a production environment that it would be like this. The screen is in a rubber surround like an iPhone 4 case. It's a press fit into the case. You just carefully extract it. A small lever helps. Don't pull on the ribbon. Once you have the board & screen out you can undo the screws holding the black top surround on. This exposes the connector. It's glued in. Rather than heat it and try and remove it I opted to solve the problem a different way. The cage that forms the mini USB outer was actually fatigue fractured, not the solder joint, so I couldn't have repaired it that way anyway. I made up a mix of 15 min epoxy & microballoons (but you could leave them out) and sharpened an icecream stick to a point. Using the point I dripped epoxy into the gap between the cage & the case being ultra carefull not to get it in the socket. I went all the way round using the side of the external antenna socket for support also. I never plug an antenna onto mine anyway so it doesn't matter that the glue is there but it does impact on the top going back on. See below. Then to get the case back on once the epoxy cured I reversed the process. The only difference was that I trimmed away the top where it had to sleeve over the antenna socket to clear the epoxy that was now there. Just be careful again soldering the antenna cable back on the main board when you get to that bit, and the antenna has a keyway on it so it only goes into the top in one direction. Might be to do with the compass, but I'm not sure. Hope this helps, Dave

Interesting that they went to torx fasteners when the phillips screws on the 60CSx worked just fine. Another case of "re-engineering" something that was perfectly fine?

Thanks for the torx info and the supp site. I did get in a few test on the 62s, just a start. On the return to the earlier waypoints made the day before: the three that are out in the open, were within 1 or 2 ft, and the one at the barb wire fence was off 4 ft. With the L/L set up to read hddd.ddddd, I was off to the surveyed point, where the last two numbers are 84. The first trip was rushed, just a few minutes before the rain started, the last two numbers were 86. The second time it read 83. Today I waited until I had the best Sat line up, and the GPS 60, which was hooked up to the roof ant, was showing +- 5 ft, so it was time to go. Walked up to the point and after about 3 seconds it read 84, time to hit the mark button! I made up two waypoints in the backyard, 100 ft apart. The unit says they are 99 ft apart. There is a 10 ft rock circle around each, and I usually make a track with each unit, set up to 1 sec, or .01 yard, so I can see where each return waypoint is within the circle. Had a hard time making a good circle with the 62s, when I finally got it to show on the Map Page. Then on the Map View, in the Tracks Manager, it shows up as a jagged bunch of lines. Along the N/S fence line, I made up several points, using a 300 ft tape, to check out distance readings. Starting at the SW corner, then N to the 250 ft, 300 ft, 500 ft, and 600 ft. Then as I checked back, the 300 was dead on, and the 250 and 500 were 2 ft off. Side note: selecting nautical ft lets me get out slightly past 600 ft. Trying to get the User Grid set up to compare units side by side in grid ft, has been a pain. The way the page is set up, I figured that the Trans Merc wasn't still tied to the Equator, wrong, so I managed to set it up like the 60 series. And trying to set it up to use State Plane in Lambert, hasn't worked like I thought it would. The Scale won't change to let me break down a meter into ft, in, or decimeters. This 60s acts like my 60Cx with the MTX chip. If I walk along taking slow baby steps, 6 in per second rate, neither unit will show any change in location whether set in Lat/Lon, UTM, or Grid Feet, for up to 45 ft, then it will move one number. I've learned that it is best for me to walk up to any point, at a normal walking rate, to get the best reading. The sides on this unit don't squeek bad, but the rocker and some of the buttons, sure do!

In Europe the screw would be called a torx size 6 or tx6. Didn't open it yet, maybe Garmin will come up with an anti-squeak solution (wishful thinking?). Once you press the on-button firmly, the case squeaks. Then also the button presses can cause squeaking. Once you gently squeeze the unit front and back cover, the parts get into place again and the button press squeaks are over for a while, at least that's my experience. Can anyone still give me a good address for reporting to Garmin?

If you go to a hardware store that sells torx screwdrivers you can size them up. Sears sells small allen nkeys and tork keys one at a time if you don't need a whole set.

Hi there I have a Garmin Geko 201, and I would like to open it with a screw driver. Can anyone tell me what type of screw drive it is? I supose it's a Torx screw driver, but I don't know what size it is... Thanks.. Have a nice day.