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Isaiah 40:31

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Posts posted by Isaiah 40:31

  1. Worked fine yesterday. Won't today. Don't know what I did.

     

    The unit will shut down when I connect it to the USB power. It will not start up if connected to USB power. Runs fine using the batteries. I may have messed around with something in the GPSr, but I don't know what.

     

    Unit will function even if USB cord is attached to unit, as long as it is not plugged into the computer. Tried on both Mac & PC to see if it was the computer. It will not work on either.

     

    I've got the latest firmware in there (v2.70), tried doing a hard reset, is NOT in demo mode.

     

    Please help!

  2. Also my not so thorough search on issues with that receiver revealed things like having locked onto roads set (thus the position not accurate), WAAS not enabled, and incorrect datums set. Some people seemed to solve the problem with a firmware update (2.60) and others with a soft reset. Just some things to check if you haven't already.

     

    That datum refers to the vertical datum (elevation), and not the horizontal. I would guess it stands for "Canadian Geodetic Vertical Datum of 1928).

     

    From what I can tell, the horizontal datum described for the CSRS is NAD83. Also if there are a few of those points that you wan't more detailed information about send me an email. Most of the detailed descriptions didn't say much, no monument description at all for example. You may be able to tell about as much from plotting them up.

     

    PS#1 It looks like your Garmin took a pretty bad hit.

     

    Actually, that's simply a piece of plastic film used to protect the screen; it was just pulling up at the corner. The screen is in pristine condition because I keep the film on it. I just got a ShieldGuard for it, but don't want to put it on a GPS that I may have to return.

    ...

    jwahl, I look into the ones you've listed, thank you.

     

    jwahl, how do I know which dataum is being used in that list you gave me? I don't see "CGVD28" as an option on my GPS.

    jwahl, I just looked up the first one on the list you gave me, it's about a block from my workshop, nice and close! I'll check it out.

     

    Yes, I did the software update, the hard reset, the soft reset, datum set to WGS84 AND roads set to off. I may have forgotten to enable WAAS, so I'm going to go and check that out before I call Garmin.

     

    Very helpful input, jwahl, thank you.

  3. That datum refers to the vertical datum (elevation), and not the horizontal. I would guess it stands for "Canadian Geodetic Vertical Datum of 1928).

     

    From what I can tell, the horizontal datum described for the CSRS is NAD83. Also if there are a few of those points that you wan't more detailed information about send me an email. Most of the detailed descriptions didn't say much, no monument description at all for example. You may be able to tell about as much from plotting them up.

     

    PS#1 It looks like your Garmin took a pretty bad hit.

     

    Actually, that's simply a piece of plastic film used to protect the screen; it was just pulling up at the corner. The screen is in pristine condition because I keep the film on it. I just got a ShieldGuard for it, but don't want to put it on a GPS that I may have to return.

    ...

    jwahl, I look into the ones you've listed, thank you.

     

    jwahl, how do I know which dataum is being used in that list you gave me? I don't see "CGVD28" as an option on my GPS.

    jwahl, I just looked up the first one on the list you gave me, it's about a block from my workshop, nice and close! I'll check it out.

  4. PS#1 It looks like your Garmin took a pretty bad hit.

     

    Actually, that's simply a piece of plastic film used to protect the screen; it was just pulling up at the corner. The screen is in pristine condition because I keep the film on it. I just got a ShieldGuard for it, but don't want to put it on a GPS that I may have to return.

     

    Black Dog, thank you for your input, I saw that website once, and then couldn't find it again. Even though that benchmark is only 4.6 miles away, it is across a major river. It can take upwards of 90 minutes to get to it! There were also a couple trees next to it, blocking out the signal a little bit. The one I found on Neaves Rd. is only about 10 minutes away.

     

    When on top of the marker in Derby Reach (the one Black Dog referenced) it was indicating my GPS was off by 24 meters! There is a thread in the GPS Software section of this forum that discusses this flaw in my model of GPS. Because I want to present the evidence to Garmin, I feel a photo next to a monument would provide the best evidence. That is why I don't want to say "well I referenced it to Google Earth" or any other less than precise measuring device.

     

    jwahl, I look into the ones you've listed, thank you.

     

    And thanks to everyone so far for your assistance, and the time you spent getting this info.

     

    jwahl, how do I know which dataum is being used in that list you gave me? I don't see "CGVD28" as an option on my GPS.

  5. Ok, I really have spent a couple hours looking for the answer to this question. Now I have a headache. Please help!

     

    I found a disk mounted in the road a week ago, and can't figure out how to find out it's geographical co-ordinates.

     

    The disk was found on Neaves Rd. in Pitt Meadows, British Columbia, Canada.

     

    So how do I find out the Lat/Long of this monument?

     

    I think my GPS is in error, and I want to use this to verify it's accuracy.

     

    P2100009.JPG

     

    P2100010.JPG

  6.  

    That has been the question since geocaching began and the battle rages on.

     

    It's too bad you see this as a "battle". I made an honest assessment based on NO PRIOR KNOWLEDGE of either product or that there were two different companies making GPS's. My observations were my own, the observations are accurate, the conclusions perhaps not so accurate, but certainly are sound based on my observations and interests.

     

    and the fact Garmin still does not have expanded memory. If I want to add maps to my Magellan, I simply load them into a SD card. Good luck doing that with a Garmin.

     

    Your "FACT" is wrong. The G comes with a 64MB micro SD card, expandable up to 1 GB, if not 2 GB (I'd have to confirm the 2 GB statement). Adding maps to my Garmin? I've MADE extremely accurate topographic maps and uploaded them to my G. (Check the thread on here on "Making custom Topo maps".

     

    The article presented a good case for Garmin's battery life, and I'll have to agree with you that the battery on the LE 500 is not that great. However, you can replace the AAA's with a lithium rechargeable battery and that tends to resolve the issue.

     

    An observation clearly made in my review...at the expense of less user friendliness in having to find uncommon batteries and charging systems with batteries that won't do a bit of good in nearly every other electronic device you operate. On a weekend trip, would I rather: a) bring along a bunch of batteries (and maybe a charger) that I know will fit all my devices (camera, GPS, flaslight, headlamp) so that I know even if I deplete the batteries in one device I can steal them from another, if need be. Or, :unsure: bring along a bunch of batteries for my other devices and two or three or more for my GPS (and now 2 chargers, if I want the option of having chargers available) and "Oh no, it's dark and I've run out of batteries for my flashlight! At least I have the ones from my GP...uh oh".

     

    Battery life? Based on Vagabond's and my very unscientific experiments (we probably should have repeated the test about 20 times with different batches of batteries and determined 3 standard deviations on a bell curve) the M had 7.5 hours on a, as I've called it, "semi-propietary" battery; and the G lasted 10 hours on prolific AA's with both units on their highest backlight settings! (Oh yeah, sorry, I failed to determine each screens canldle power (or candelas or lumens (isotropic), or watts per steradian at 555 nm or whatever other light output measuring unit you care to use!!!!) to determine that even this would be a fair comparison as pertains to screen brightness, and therefore it's relative consumption of energy). Still a better deal for batteries in the G in terms of both purchase cost of batteries, and total cost of getting the unit operating.

     

    Yes, TO ME (that was what this review was about: MY impressions on the units) using AA's is a very important factor.

     

    They both have color screens, and they both have a few bells and whistles. But do you need them? We are talking geocaching here. Plug in a coordinate and walk to the cache.

     

    Do you need them? If I'm spending the same amount on either GPS why not have them? And, on the G, it's a whole lot more than "a few". "We are talking geocaching here." My bad. I did forget that I was in a geocaching forum, regardless of the fact that I was doing a straight comparison on two similar products, and regardless of the fact that I want to use it for hiking and regardless of the fact that I want to use it when kayaking to help me keep a bearing directly to my destination (which is why I spent nearly 3 times as much on a unit which would do all that, rather than just spit out a lat/long on a mapless monochrome screen. But then virtually ANY GPS will give you a raw lat/long readout why even bother having to enter the coordinates? Just watch as the readout changes? Or, you could use one with a few (or a lot) of the niceties that make the unit -and the experience- enjoyable.

     

    :grin: Also try not to judge a book by it's cover. Trying to say one GPS is waterproof or not just by looking at it's case is not a good test. Ask someone who knows weather this is true like the guys at Consumer Report. They are a non-biased party that are paid to test this stuff.

     

    Actually I did not judge it by it's cover, it was when I took off the cover (the back cover) that I started to question it's ability to keep dry. As stated, the rubber gasket DID NOT seat well, but instead would twist 'apparently' out of position as the cover was replaced. Non-biased? If you read my review you would see that I WAS non-biased. I had not previous knowledge of the merits of ANY GPS or manufacturer. I WASN'T biased, but it's hard not to be, now. Regardless, I can still be objective, can you?

     

    :grin: Honestly, for geocaching, any GPS will do. The real question is how much do you want to spend, do you want the screen in color, does the thing have expanded memory, and how good is the battery life?

     

    You have missed the point of the review. It was a comparison of two similar products, it was not a G Vs. M debate.

     

    Here's one more thing to think about. Accuaracy... How accurate is the Garmin compared to Magellan. Unless you know a land surveyor with some heavy duty GPS equipment this question may go unanswered for a very long time. Personally I belive Magellan is more accurate, but I have nothing to back this up with. However it definately would be interresting to see results from this type of test.

     

    I can't speculate on this. I would trust NO GPS to determine accuracy of any equipment. Land surveyors with means of earth measurement other than GPS would be the only reliable source. But again, it will vary from unit to unit, and you would need a large number of each unit, tested in a large number of locations to determine the answer to that. I didn't go on what I "personally believed", I wrote a completely objective and unbiased review based on the merits of either unit, and how those merits fit within my goals and expectations (goals and expectations beyond geocaching) of what I wanted out of a GPS unit.

     

    I wrote this review without any loyalty to any brand or unit and without patriotism, pride or air of superiority. It was written carefully, clearly, and openly and objectively. I enjoy a good rational debate; and you will find me defending both sides of an issue, so as to keep the debate going in search of a final conclusion. I don't give a rip who wins, all I seek is the truth. And, as you may have guessed from my pseudonym, there are greater truths than these. This thread IS NOT a Garmin Vs. Magellan "battle", please do not make it so.

  7. A battery that can maintain charge while stored for longer periods of time has a higher internal resistance; a battery that discharges quickly while stored has a lower internal resistance.

     

    A battery with lower internal resistance will permit you to discharge the battery more quickly.

     

    This is important in situations where you need sudden bursts of current draw such as with radio control aircraft. In r/c aircraft, if you move all the control surfaces at the same time, it puts a high load on the batteries; with a high internal resistance this can actually cause the voltage to drop sufficiently enough that the receiver will cease to function momentarily, thereby causing momentary loss of control.

     

    NiCd's are low internal resistance and will therefore discharge quickly (believe it or not, it's 10% per day!), but they are perfectly suited for radio control aircraft, or other situations requiring sudden bursts of power. In a device where the current draw is more constant, either will work, but as you already know those with a longer shelf life between charges (higher internal resistance) will be less hassle.

     

    I know the discharge curve of NiCd is such that there's a immediate drop in voltage when you first use them after charging, but then the voltage levels out for most of the duration of the discharge, until it gets to about 1.1 volts. At that point the voltage plummets rapidly. That is why NiCd's do not give you much warning when they are about to die. For Alkalines, the discharge curve is much more linear, that is why you will see the voltage steadily degrade over the duration of the discharge.

     

    Unfortunately I do not know much about NiMh, what their relative internal resistance is, what there discharge curve is, nor which type of charging method (constant voltage or constant current) is. It is my understanding, however, that you cannot charge a high internal resistance battery quickly (on this point I may be wrong); so do use caution if you chose to use the quick charger, make sure you're protected from them if they explode, and do not leave them to charge unattended.

     

    Better yet, if you can find any definitive answers on this (I haven't looked, yet) perhaps you can inform the rest of us!

  8.  

    About the antenna. As you said, both use a patch antenna. Patch-equipped handhelds should be used horizontally, screen facing the sky. So hold your eTrex flat, not vertical. I am totally with you about not having the antenna sticking out. That's why I prefer the GPSmap 76 series over the 60 series.

     

    To quote from the eTrex Vista Cx Owner's Manual, Page 5: "Hold the unit in front of you with the top tilted upward. While the GPS receiver is searching for the satellite signals, a "Locating Satellites" message is replaced by an "Acquiring Satellites" message until enough signals are acquired to fix its location."

  9.  

    I've already made a few clarifications and corrected a couple of typos in Bus 36's Instructions on How To Make Custom Topo Maps. I have not used the method involving the "Mapset Tool Kit" so I haven't made any changes to the instructions pertaining to the Tool Kit. I've got the instructions just like Bus 36 did them in a Word file with my clarifications and a couple of typos corrected. I'll be glad to email you the file so you can improve on it and also add an amendment for the Step by Step Instructions for using the "Mapset Tool Kit" if you'd like. If you want to send me a personal message with your email address, I'll send it to you immediately.

     

    Any additional clarification is definately welcome! Thank you. Check for a PM!

  10. I think I remember seeing this when I first tried connecting my Vista CX a couple weeks ago.

     

    I did a couple things:

     

    1: I updated the firmware in the GPS. (See Garmin website for latest firmware for your model.)

    2: You have to install the drivers AFTER you install MapSource. So use the uninstaller and add/remove programs to remove both MapSource AND the GPS USB drivers.

    3: Reinstall MapSource.

    4: Reinstall the drivers.

     

    5: Start MapSource on your computer.

    6: Connect and turn on your GPS (does not matter which order you do these 2 things.)

    7: Go to the Main Menu ----> Setup ---> Interface on your GPS.

    8: Make sure the "USB Mass Storage" is highlited (yellow) at the bottom of the screen.

    9: Click "Enter" on your GPS click-stick

     

    10: Click on "Download to your GPS"

     

    11: The widow "Send To Device" will pop-up, wait about 5 seconds for it to recognize your GPS.

    12: "Removable Disk (F:\)" will come up in the drop-down menu.

     

    You're ready to transfer what you like!

  11. Maybe someone can go through this thread and edit the original directions to make it more clear for others correcting and changing things so it is easier.

     

    I was thinking of doing this, actually. But was afraid of you guys being offended that I was just plaigarizing, and taking what you had worked so hard on. I will definately take on this task, but I'll need at least until the end of the weekend before I can get to it.

     

    Congratulations on the impending new arrival, Bus! Is this your first?

  12. Hi... I am almost there to pull the tirgger on the GPAMAP 60Cx / 1 GB Micro SD card and the map...

     

    Which one to get?? or it doesnt really matter. City Navigator North America v8 ORCity Navigator North America NT v8. I know the only diff is the compression issue otherwise everything is the same. Correct?

     

    or which one is better for 60Cx?

     

    and where can I get one?

     

    Thanks

     

    Bruce

     

    Do you work at YVR? I'm close to CYPK. M.R., actually.

     

    You might want to try Dekin equipment in North Van. Can't say much about their prices, but they'll probably have what you need.

  13. Ok, so I've made a few topos now. Boy it takes a LONG time to process.

     

    As was suggested here, I've put the contours at 500, 200 and 20ft. The water level threshold is at 5 feet.

     

    But I'm getting contour lines on my GPS in the middle of the water of my base map. (I'm not using the hydro in my custom maps - is there a source for that for Canadian areas?) but I don't think it's just a matter of the base map being off.

     

    Here's two that I've come up with:

     

    http://70.69.38.186/jakewebpages/maps

     

    Also, I wish I could have a less detailed topo when I'm zoomed out further. It is hard to get an overview of ones surroundings when zoomed in so far on such a small display.

     

     

    Bus, thank you for replying. Yours and cyphermans guru greatness helps us all as our "map making lives" hang in the balance!

     

    The above is where I had originally posted the link.

     

    Also, is this where I'd go for my water? And which type of map, specifically (link, please) would I need?

     

    http://geogratis.gc.ca/downftp/en/

     

    Would the Geobase.ca be an appropriate place for roads?

  14. That is why I was hoping people would be willing to upload their custom topos so others could use them and share them. They are better and a lot better for hiking and such.

     

    I have made a bunch (about a dozen) already, but I haven't uploaded any of them, yet. Bus, or Cypherman, if you could answer some of the questions I have it would be a great help before I actually upload these things. I put a link to a couple of my files so you could see if I should be doing anything differently. Mine don't have water, and I don't know if the link I posted is what I need to use?

     

    Please let me know.

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