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Posts posted by stevesisti

  1. Keep in mind that the same problem one has with units of distance being too coarse is present with the bearing. I'm a little flabbergasted that Garmin doesn't provide at least three digits of precision to the right of the decimal point for the degree in put. It means significant errors if you project much more than a couple hundred yards using whole degrees. Using mils is considerably more precise (about 18 times) but still is too coarse for my taste. <full rant mode> It's a calculation function not a measurement function. Calculators should work to precision beyond the capability of the measuring device. </full rant mode>

    If the unit is plus/minus 5 degrees, why would you want to input info in thousandths of a degree. The purpose of projecting a way point is to use the onboard compass. Given it's native accuracy of full degrees (5 at that), why would you ever want input capability to thousandths of a degree. Forgetting the garmin unit for the time being, is there even such an instrument that can measure thousandths of a degree.....heck at that accuracy, even your zipper would throw a monkey wrench into the measurement :0)

  2. For a quick projection I do the following:


    (Usually the projections are magnetic, so make sure you are set up for mag. not true)


    1. Mark the spot you are at.


    2. Using the compass, aim the GPSr in the direction required to match the degree angle. (I usually pick an easily identifiable spot/object)


    3. Switch to the map and click "Measure Distance". From that extend the cursor out to the desired distance and click enter. This gives you a push-pin on your map.


    4. Go to the push-pin spot and you will be very close. I usually recheck the distance and make it exact by hitting "goto" the beginning marked point.


    Hope this helps.

    I'm not so sure I would recomend this method...first off, it's not that accurate an operation to begin with even when you use the sighting marks on the case, hold the bearing, and press enter to mark the projected waypoint. Having to press "menu", scroll to measure distance, press enter and the use the panning rocker will surely have the GPS not pointed anywhere near the bearing you originally pointed at. For best accuracy, mark a waypoint where you are standing, then using the "project a waypoint" feature using the sighting marks on the GPS case.


    Another point...once you use the measure distance function, the top portion of the screen is blocked and the page view locks....so if you are using "track up", the page will no longer rotate according to your path.

  3. Surely this because the 60c, as opposed to the 60CS, does not have an electronic compass. As soon as you start moving, it should sort itself out - I think!

    Not so, I use my GPS with the compass of all the time, except when I stop to take a bearing, then I turn it on. My compass spinning was with the compass off....there is another thread around with several people experiencing the same thing.

  4. My 60c has developed the annoying habit of constantly shifting the heading while it is standing still. Because of this, it will not record stop time on the trip computer, either. The only thing that I could think of to do was to reload the firmware, and it did not solve the problem. Does anybody know how to solve this, or will this be a send it in to Garmin thing? As it does not do it when moving (operates just fine while moving), it's just an annoyance and I think I could put up with it for the price of the $135 repair fee. Any ideas?


    I had the same problem on my 60CS....the direction arrow would just go round and round, and the moving time/stopped time fields would not work. As I've mentioned before, there are several little software glitches in the 60 series....for me, turning the unit off, removing the batteries for a few moments, reinstalling the bats, and doing a master reset cured the problem. If it still does not work after that, send it back to Garmin as I would find that a lot more than just an annoyance...it's really unusable.


    Regardless of when you bought it, If there is a problem Garmin should fix it for no charge.

  5. Forget the trail and cache stuff for the time being....go out in an open field, turn the unit on and wait for it to get a good lock (EPE 25ft or less), then mark your waypoint in the spot you are standing , and mark the spot you are standing on with something visible. Now you can walk around and see how the GPs responds in relation to the marked waypoint. For accuracy sake you should mark the waypoint with the unit in the vertical position where it gets it's best reception. I would suspect it was just a onetime deal, as your unit is new and maybe didn't get a good almanac load.

  6. 1. calibrating: i use 3points and the long/lat is from google earth

    2. don't know this part

    3. i am sure i did the right thing, otherwise it couldn't display the map right?


    so you say the pv file is "less accurate" than img file? anyway, it should look like any other map detail right?but mine look and have gaps between the roads....weird

    If you "don't know this part", I assume you didn't load the maps into "Mapsource" (Garmins software for loading Garmin maps into the GPS) but rather just loaded the map directly to the GPS using something like "Mapsend"....is that correct?

  7. I use the OziExplorer to calibrate the map, then open the file from GPSmapEDIT. I drawed many many many lines and stuff and i looks ok in the editor.


    Compile the map and every went ok. Then i open mapsource to view it. :) OMG the road/lines are completly NOT inline. how is that possible?

    You could have done any one of a number of things wrong


    Calibrated the map wrong

    Made an error in creating the tdb and/or PV file in mapedit (Possibly related to the levels).

    Made an error in loading the three required files into the Mapsource registry.


    Remember in mapsource, depending on the levels you selected when creating the pv file, the map won't look any where near as good as it will on the GPS because it's a "preview" or reduced detail .img file. When you load to the GPS, the full (more detailed) .img file gets loaded in, not the pv file you view in Mapsouce.

  8. The Altimeter page requires the use of your Tracklog, wether or not your moving around. Try turning OFF both the Tracklogging and Altimeter, then TURN them both back ON, and try the altimeter function with the Tracklogging turned ON.


    It can not record your Altimeter history if the Traclog is turned OFF.

    Whenever I clear my Active Tracklog, that clears my Altimeter History back to zero.

    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


    When you have the GPS ON but don't want the GPS using Trackpoints, you need to turn off the Tracklog.


    When you want to record the pressure plot of a storm comming, but don't want the GPS recieving satellites, turn OFF the Reciever portion of the GPS, and turn on Tracklogging, and set the Altimeter to FIXED elevation.




    If it still is bad then call Garmin about this Issue with the Altimeter.

    The altimiter page doesn't require tracklog to be on in order for the graphing function to work. Track log must be turned on to "record" the pressure and distance, but not to show it on the graph.


    Both my altitude plot over distance and time, and my pressure plot continue working when I turn the tracklog recording off.


    If however you turn the tracklog off, and reset the altimiter page, then the graphing function ceases to work until you turn the "tracklog" back on.

  9. Hi. I have my GPSMAP 60CS for few days now. It used to display green color graph in Altimeter page. But now when I go to Altimeter Page it shows working... for few sec but whne working... is gone the graph does not appear. I have reset the the values, restored the to delfault setting but the green color graph does not appear.


    How can I bring it back?


    The second question is how can I reset whole of the unit to factory set?


    This is my first GPS, please help me if you can in bringing this altimeter graph back.




    I had a similar problem...make sure if you are plotting over distance, that you have had some movement since you last cleared the altimiter...if you clear it and haven't gone anywhere the graph is obviously blank.


    If that is not the problem, then you might be involved with one of the little "quirks" with the 60CS...for me the solution was a master reset.......my graph would come up, and then disappear.....master reset put all back to normal.

  10. xp automatically asks you if you want to unzip after a download.....uninstall winzip, then go and download again..........When you download it will give you a window asking to what folder you want to download to...pick a folder you know or just download to the desktop...upon completion of the downolad, xp will ask if you want to unzip...say yes.

  11. I got a strange message on my 60Cs today, "software missing." I had just pushed a button a couple of times in quick succession. I've been having occassional lockups, but I've never seen this before! It worked fine both before and after the incident. Has anyone else seen this? It's as if it couldn't find any firmware. Photo below.


    Rich Owings




    "We were desert mystics, my friends and I, poring over our maps as others do their holy books." - Edward Abbey



    Nerer saw it...and hope I never do :0) This kind of thing, along with the compass "free-spinning", the altimiter page locking up, and the horitontal "squigglies" when exiting a marine point, are probably all do to little bugs in the software.


    It takes a certain set of conditions or button pushing to cause the problems. The compass spinning requires a master reset for me to get things right...the "squigglies" only require a "power down, then up" to clear the screen, the altimiter problem requires a reset.


    Thankfully, the occurences are a rarity...to me it seems there is a conflict in the unit where certain demands on the processor corrupt certain files in the unit. I am decidedly more deliberate (slow) when paging or pushing any buttons and I have to say, since I have "slowed down" I haven't had a single problem in over 2 mos now.....keep in mind I haven't changed any 60CS or Mapsource versions.

  12. Hey all, I was trying to go to Cameron park, ca today and the 60cs wasnt showing cameron park in the address input menu. It would show it on the city page though....I have a 60cs ver4.00 with city select 6....Any thoughts?!?!?!? Thanks!



    I can find it in City Select v6 and v7 in mapsource...I would sugest you check your loaded maps in the 60CS and make sure there is a map section titled "Cameron Park", that is the particular name of the map section that Cameron Park is located in. It's pretty easy when you are zipping around selecting map sections to inadvertently miss one of them.

  13. There is obiously a bug somewhere in the software. On several ocassions I have had the compass spinning while I was standing still...I'm not talking about drift. It's happened to me twice, necessitating the shutdown of the unit (still spun),shutdown of the unit and removal of batteries (still spun), hard re-set (cured the problem).


    As I'm very familiar with the unit now, I will be looking for the series of events which might cause the problem.


    This little "gremlin" and the loss of the graph on the altitude page, are obviosly caused by a specific series of keystrokes...something that is pretty hard to document considering the amount of "button pushing" the average user does. I am on the latest firmware and have to say I haven't had either problem reoccur in quite awhile.

  14. I find it so odd that even the lastest high end GPS's come with so little built in memory storage (e.g.,  like Garmin C-60)  I know the Meridian and Exmplorist series has the option to add SD cards, but that is still extra money.


    The technology exist to have huge amounts of memory.  Look at the iPods.  Even the iPod Nano has 2 GB. 


    For the amount of money you pay for these high end GPS's, you would think having at least 2 or 3 GB of memory would be standard.

    For the average GPSr user, 8 MB or 24 MB are all they need.


    How many people travel frequently from coast-to-coast where they need loads of memory?


    I think people would rather have a reasonably-priced, works-for-me GPSr than one with more features/memory than they need and a higher price tag.

    8mb or 24mb is enough memory ? I don't follow that logic. I have a 60CS and I can't load all of City Select New York. Not to mention the three bordering states Ct, Pa, and NJ. If you wanted topo loaded at the same time, you really run short of memory. Maybe it depends on where you live...if your anywhere near a big city, the memory gets chewed up fast. In practical terms, if I drew a 4 hr driving circle around my home, I couldn't come close to fitting City Select alone in the unit.


    I like the 60cs, but the 76CS with the added memory would at least cover a std. weekend drive in any direction. It's not a big deal to "load-up" for a weekend trip, but it's a heck of a lot more convenient to have all your weekend trips "in-the-unit".


    Maybe you can work around 24 MG, but 8...I wouldn't even purchase City Select or Topo if my memory was that limited.

  15. Just for you info...the belt clip is really useless as the slightest bump causes it to come unlocked and release the unit. If you use Garmins beltclip, I would use the supplied lanyard with a carabiner hooked thru a belt loop.

  16. I've been looking at those Garmin Rhino units and they have recently come out with some pretty cool ones with the electric compases and barometers and altimiters and increased ranges of GMRS comunication and the ability to locate a friend with the same units is pretty cool too. But is it a good unit to go for in consernes to geocaching?
    increased ranges of GMRS comunication

    If you want increased range you may find yourself disapointed with GMRS, it is not all that is cracked up to be. It is still line of site comunications, regardless of the power output. If there is a hill or a building in the way, they are not going to work. When a manufacture states a range for a radio they are refering to the legel allowed range for the frequency.


    if you want to comunicate with someone your best bet would be a Ham radio, the license is easy to get (it is a very easy test).

    Whether you have a "Ham radio" license for the available channels, or GMRS. your still in the same boat. If it's a handheld, my understanding is the line of sight limitations applies no matter what frequency you use. Sure some frequencies can travel marginally further, but without a change in antenna height...5 watts is 5 watts. Are you saying that a handheld Yaseau or Kenwood would get further range than 5 watt handheld GMRs radio ? I'd be surprised if that were true.


    To be able to talk handheld from one side of a mountain to the other is always problematic...and the 5 watt "mileage" claim of 5 miles doesn't even work straight line of sight on an open body of water...in the woods the reach is even worse. Nothing wrong with that...it's just that people really expect to be in the woods and get a hold of someone 3 mi away....doesn't happen.


    If your expectations are reasonable, the short "reach" is still convenient in a lot of applications...eg. skiing, boating, etc.

  17. One thing I would check is that you actually have the City Select detail map of the entire route loaded. Funny things happern when you try to get routings where the 60CS has to leave the detailed maps and "run" with the basemap. If you didn't have the detailed map loaded for your entire route, or at least the point where you asked for an avoidance, I wouldn't be surprised if the routing software used the only road it had, which just might be your "avoidance" road.

  18. Interesting differing viewpoints...I leave mine off all the time. I live in the northeast, and do a lot of hiking. 90% of the time, my view of the wass sat is obstructed by mountains. Out on the water (Hudson River), I get an excellent view of the wass sat, and have gotten EPE's of 6 ft.


    If I am in "marginal" reception areas, it almost appears as if having wass on, the reception (as determined by # of sats and signal strength) seems to deteriorate over time. Switching wass off gives me a more constant lock on the few sats available.


    I guess whether you use it or not depends on where you live and how reliable a view you have of the wass satellite. The idea of leaving it on all the time to take advantage of it when and if you can get a lock doesn't seem to work for me owing to the reasons mentioned above. I would be curious to know if any one else has found deteriorating reception when leaving wass on in an area where the sat can't be received.


    The first time I used wass I also had a somewhat difficult time waiting for the "d's" to appear, but my second attempt was in a clearing with a good view of the sat and all went well.

  19. Actually, autorouting on the basemap can be helpful, but only when you are traveling on major roads. If you get City Select and plan a long trip, you only need to load maps for your local city and the city of your destination. You can then autoroute from door to door, with the unit switching to the basemap for travel in between.

    Logically one might think that would work, but on the east coast, even a major road like I 87, new york state thruway, they only show one line, not North and south lanes like city select, and no ramps. The intersection of I-287 and I- 87 just doesn't show a connection in the basemap autorouting, and for much of this area, the basemap just plain doesn't work, even when using it in "limited" form on "major" hwys.


    That being said, I was worried City Select might have some of the same problems...but not so...it has exceeded my expectations.


    I was counting on the basemap to fill in on trips where I might not be able to load all the areas in the 60CS 54 megs......I'd think twice about doing that now. The basemap will show you what road your on, if it's a "major" one, but I wouldn't count on it to "hand you off" from one major road to another.


    On a recent trip to PA out rt 80, the basemap had all the exit numbers wrong...so basically it's worse than nothing because it gives you "bad" or wrong information.

  20. Hello all. Seeking advice. Live in USA, planning trip to western europe. Never had GPS before. Is GPS useful for sightseeing in London, Rome, etc? Can one tap in "St. Paul's Cathedral' and get directions to it, and then be able to backtrack to hotel?


    What make/model would you recommend? I've been looking at Garmin Quest, which apparently takes the City Select Europe (for $$$ extra cost). Anyone have experience using same or similar?


    Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

    Your better off with the handheld if your walking around...you can backtrack with any gps anywhere in the world...as long as you mark your starting position or have the tracking turned on.


    As far as the maps, the Garmin web site has a map viewer for their european maps that you can actually see the maps and decide if you like them....would be a no-brainer to be able to find your way around all the unfamiliar streets with the 60CS and city select europe v7.


    Check it out on the upper right corner of this page http://www.garmin.com/cartography/mapSourc...yselectEuro.jsp

  21. I have City Select on my desktop and wanted it on my laptop. Using the Install disk I get to the point where it asks for disk 1. I put it in and click ok...it just keeps asking for the disk. It's like it's not seeing that the disk is in the drive.

    I've checked the laptop by installing other software, it is working fine.


    Any help would be appreciated.




    Sounds like the drive can't read the disc. I would try cleaning the disk...check again to see if your desktop pc will read it....if it does, try it in the laptop again. Disc drives can be fussy, depending on the Mfg....I have a brand of cd's that my drive just won't read...go figure. As mentioned you could try to copy disc 1 from your pc, on to a new disc, I don't know if it's copy protected, but worth a try...and use a brand name disc that you know your laptop has no problem reading.

  22. I need help...bad. I am trying to learn all this new hi tech stuff and I'm afraid I might have done something wrong. The thing is I recently purchased a new vista C and its not behaving like my previous "venture". I have read all the info that came with unit and when I first turned it on I went outside and locked in my home, everythings good so far. I punched in coords for a new local cache and went hunting, I never could find it. I come home and purchase the premium membership so I can download cache points. I downloaded all local points that we havent found and successfully got them onto the vista C. I also put in a couple of favorites by hand. The first thing I noticed when we went out was that the cache I put in by hand was way off from where it should be, about 15 miles off. So we tried the cache that I downloaded and it took us there fine. The first multi-cache we hit was a downloaded point, when we manually put in second set of coords on sight it put us another 20 miles away. We went home empty handed and now I'm afraid to commit to anymore hunts because I don't care for wild goose.

    What have I done wrong? Also I noticed with the base map that come with unit the map is off. The house I was building on the lake was aparently out in the lake. Also when I try to use the feature that tells you what road and when to turn, it doesn't use any secondary roads, just major hiways that take me way out of the way. Im wanting to purchase the software that has all the US roads but if this thing stays like it is I'll be waisting @$100.

    Can anyone help me? :blink:

    You really can't autoroute with just the basemap....Garmin would probably be better off not letting you auto route at all if you just have the base map...the good news is that city select is dramatically better for autorouting and general detail than the basemap...and the maps are detailed enough that your GPS won't show you in the lake when your on your driveway....providing of course your house is not within 30 or so feet of the lake.

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