Dj Storm

Jó napot kivanok Én egy Romániai geocacher vagyok, és szeretnék vásárolni két magyar geo érmet. Nem mondom, hogy mi kell legyen az érmen, a döntés a tiétek. A román éremről tudok mondani néhány informaciót: A gondolkodó ember egyik ősi műalkotás ami Románia területén találva volt - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamangia_culture . A sárkány a dák háború zászló - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dacian_Draco . Nem számít, hogy mi lesz látható a érmen, ha a jelentőség megérti. Külföldiek nem bánják, akik megveszik az érmet meg fogják venni egyébként is. Mint egy ajánlás, ha valakinek több pénze van, akkor több mint 100 érmét meg lehet rendelni. Romániában, a tervezés is verés fázisban kevesen voltak akik érmet vásárolni akartak; két hónappal azután a kérés nőtt, de nem maradt érem. Akkor is, ha csak 100 darabot rendeltek, beszéljetek a gyártóval hogy több érmet verjen a jövőben. A saját ikon kötelező. Az ikon megvásárolható később is, de ha egyszer az érmek el lettek adva, nehéz a pénzt összegyűjteni. A román érmekre azt kértük, hogy a kódok "RO"-val kezdődjenek. Ez nem kerül pluszba, kérjétek meg a gyártót, hogy a kódok "HU"-val kezdődjenek. Most egy másik dolog: június 24-én lesz a Magyarország első geoláda 10. évfordulója. Más országokban hasonló alkalmakkal tartottak jubileumi rendezvényeket. Romániában, az évforduló április 1-jén lesz, és azon a hétvégén (péntektől vasárnapig) egy találkozót tartunk. Június 24-e is egy péntekre esik, lehet kezdeni szervezni egy hasonló találkozót. Szeretnék részt venni, és remélem, az érmek meg lesznek addigra.

I say, even if you buy the Incredible, don't leave your Garmin at home. I went geocaching many times with a friend who has a smartphone. I have a basic Garmin GPSr. Due to its online capability, the smartphone is excellent for geocaching "on the fly" - you don't have to plan ahead and download the caches in advance. It's also excellent for allowing you to read past logs in the field, look at spoiler pictures, or in case of mystery caches, search the net for clues that help breaking their code. The drawback of the smartphone is the battery. While a dedicated GPS receiver can work for an entire day of caching on a pair of rechargeables (and you can carry spares easily), the smartphone has an autonomy of only a few others. On long hikes, or on long days of geocaching away from the car, a dedicated GPSr is needed.

For question No.3, I say replace the log and notify the owner. Better, notify the owner first then replace the log. For the other questions, here's a more detailed answer: First, look for some places where you would like to bring other geocachers. These can be places with a beautiful view, with an interesting landmark, historic places, or anything out of the ordinary. Look around these places for possible hiding spots for a geocache. Choose an appropriate container for the hiding place. The container must be watertight. You can test the containers at home by submerging them in the bathtub for a minute, see if bubbles come out or water gets in. As kitchen container go, the only ones I'm content with are those with a seal and "wings" on the lid that "grab" the container - they may be called "click clacks". Lock'n'locks have better quality, but are more expensive. For the micro and nano containers, I haven't found anything as good as the ones sold on the net specifically for geocaching. As for the logbook, for the nano/micro containers you can a sheet of paper to size and roll the logsheet. You can print on said logsheet anything you deem relevant; on the net there are several examples ready to be printed. If you hide a larger container, it's better to put a notebook in it. I buy spiral notebooks, remove the spiral, print something on the cover(s)/first page, and assemble it back, but you can write by hand, it doesn't matter much. On the logbook I write the cache's name, my contact info, and things like "geocaching", "Logbook"/"Logbook #2", but I found cache where the owner had described the area, the historic relevance or the legend about that place. A stashnote may be included in the cache. On the "hide and seek a cache" page there are examples of stashnotes in many languages. Stashnotes are for those who found the cache accidentally, it's best to put one in the local language. I made several different size stashnotes, laminated them and glued them to the inside of the lid of my caches. For the micro caches the stashnote can be part of the logsheet. In small and regular caches you can leave a pen and/or pencil, and also some swag. Various small toys, buttons, fridge magnets, foreign or out-of-circulation coins, and any other kid friendly item can be put in a geocache. The swag can be either bought or hand-made. For extra protection, I place the logbook and swag in their own ziploc, but if the container is watertight the contents will survive even without this. Mark the outside of the container as a geocache. Writing"geocache" with a sharpie / marker is enough, but I prefer to print the marking, laminate it and glue it to the container. Some cachers put the container in a plastic bag, but that doesn't protect the cache from water - on the contrary, it keeps the water around the cache. When hiding a cache, make sure you have correct coordinates. Even if your GPS receiver can do averaging, don't trust it blindly. I recommend powering up the GPSr several minutes before getting the coordinates. For your first hides, come back later that day or the next day, and verify that the coordinates are indeed correct. After the cache has been hidden, list it on geocaching.com, it will be published in a day or two. I recommend to place traditional caches at first. After gaining more experience, you may try your hand at hiding multi and mystery caches. Since there are four of you playing, I recommend to hide the caches on your own and let your friends go find them. This way not only they get the enjoyment of geocaching, but they can warn you if there are problems with the coordinates or placement.

For the first caches that I found in non-English speaking countries, I made the extra effort of translating the log into the native language. this involved writing the language in English, translating into the native language, translating the result back to English, noticing the discrepancies, modifying the original log, translating and translating back, and so on, until what I got was understandable. This took a significant amount of time, and usually I had to break my log in short sentences and leave out some parts that couldn't be translated correctly. I prefer to write at least a paragraph for each cache I search for. After the first foreign caches I started to write the logs in English only; these caches were in tourist destinations, and either had the description also in English or had many logs before mine in English only. As for my country (Romania), 99% of the caches have English listings. There are more caches with English only listings than caches with Romanian only listings. All my logs on domestic caches are in English only, and most Romanian cachers log their finds in English. So far no cache owner contacted me regarding the language of my logs. If someone finds (or DNF's) my caches, I prefer them to write a longer log in any language they know. When a foreigner logs a cache with "Found it", I start suspecting armchair logging.

Thanks for the advice!

I have found all the caches on a 100km (60 miles) radius. For me, to go caching seems to be the exception - it's impossible to get a quick grab when you have to travel for several hours each way. I only cache during weekends and vacation; my typical geocaching weekend begins Saturday morning with a long trip, caching the rest of the day, sometimes caching through the night, continuing Sunday until the afternoon and making the trip back home in the evening.

I have a questions for those in the know: is it possible to buy a custom icon for an already minted coin? If there's someone who had done this, please give me some details. Two years ago we had minted our country's first geocoin. We were rookies then and haven't bought the icon. Time have passed, we became wiser and now we regret not buying the icon at that time.

At first my thought was: There's no reason for "outlawing" these caches due to their names. Sure, there's a double entendre in each name, and if taken together a pattern can be seen, but in order to see them together someone has to look specifically for them. If one searches by zip code, state or coordinates, these caches won't be grouped together. One has to look at this cacher's hides and ignore the caches with normal names. For me, this means that that person went to extensive lengths in order to be offended, and have no sympathy for him. But after looking at all the caches hidden by said cacher: Most of her caches have double-entendre names, and many of them are more offensive than the one listed in the OP's post. I think at least a couple of her caches can be denied individually due to their name, no need to look at the large picture. Now I fully support the reviewer's decision of disabling the caches until the names are made family friendly.

The attribute can have one of the following values: "Winter friendly", "not winter friendly" and "not chosen". If the attribute is set to "winter friendly", most likely the cache can be found without extra effort. If the attribute is set to "not winter friendly", either the area is inaccessible due to snowfall, or the cache is hidden close to the ground and hard to find under snow. Compare the current weather to the average of the past years, then decide if you want to attempt finding the cache or not. I have found such caches in December before the heavy snowfalls. In April the same caches were sitting under 10 feet of snow. If the attribute is not set, then probably the situation is between the two described above. The cache might be findable when the snow is 1 foot thick, but unfindable in 3 feet of snow. In my area, it is rare for the snow to be one foot deep, and usually it melts within a week or two. For my caches that are above the snowline, or can be found easily under the snow thanks to a good hint, I set the attribute to "winter friendly". For the caches that are on the ground, I left the attribute not chosen, since most of the winter they can be found easily.

I don't see this as a problem. For every one of my hides, I go to the place at least two times, sometimes three times, before hiding the geocache. However I went caching with friends, and most of them were hiding caches on the impulse of the moment. This implied hiding smaller caches than what the area could support, or hiding larger caches with improvised logbooks, even hiding containers improvised on the spot. Having a fully stocked container ready would only improve these hides.

Many GPSr users are unaware of the multipath effect. Multipath occurs when your GPSr, instead of using the signal that traveled directly from the satellite, picks up a signal that was reflected of a nearby surface. You can read more about this here: http://gpsinformation.net/multipath.htm Once I was hiking through some mountains, signal was less than adequate, and after one hour my GPSr showed a trip 320 km (200 miles) long. Another time I took a reading from the balcony of a building, and the reading was 100m (330 feet) off. Since both your GPSrs showed the same anomaly, I guess that one GPS satellite moved behind a structure. The GPSrs lost the direct view of that satellite and picked up the signal reflected off a nearby surface.

In your situation I would have done the following: Back in July I would have logged both a DNF and a NM, notifying the owner that the area changed dramatically. Now, when the owner asks for help, since I haven't found the cache yet, I would do nothing. I changed out containers or logbooks when owners asked for help with maintenance. I will replace a cache altogether if it's missing, I had found it before, the hiding place is in the same condition and the owner asks for help. However, if the hiding place is no longer viable (like in your example), I wouldn't replace the cache.

If you didn't find the cache, log a DNF. If there is a string of DNFs, you can follow up with a NM, and if nothing happens in a month, post a NA. If you have found the cache before, and now the cache is no longer there, and you contacted the owner and received his permission to replace his cache, then go ahead and replace it. If you are willing to continue maintaining this cache, assuming that the owner answered and gave you permission to replace, you might make an agreement with the owner: either you continue to maintain his cache, or you can ask him to adopt his cache to you.

At every geocache that has swag I trade something, and add the item I take to my collection. For this reason I prefer larger containers that have some toys. I don't filter out the micros and nanos, but they need to have something to make up for the lack of swag. I will go for a clever or unusual hide - thanks to favorites I can see them easily. I might go for an unremarkable if I happen to be in the vicinity. I hate micros placed because the owner didn't want to buy a larger container; a micro in a place where a 55 gallon barrel could be hidden is a no-no for me. However: I'm not too disappointed of the micros that I found, mostly because I was forewarned not to have high expectations. The disappointment when I find a below mediocre regular container is bitter. I found regular containers with no swag; regulars with a logsheet instead of a logbook; smalls and regulars that were cracked, filled with water or both. It happened to me to find a small container on a wonderful forest trail, 1.5 hours of walking each way to get it, dry, with a standard logbook and swag, with a blank logbook (I'm a FTF hound btw), and still be a bit disappointed by that cache.

First, I'm a FTF hound. I consider that the FTF is determined in site, i.e. the first to sign the logbook is the first finder. If you found a blank logbook, congratulations for the FTF. If there's an argument about who is the FTF, this can easily be settled at the cache location: look in the logbook! As a cache owner, if someone claims to have found my cache but was unable to open it and signed the container or took a photo, I might be angry but will probably let it slide. If said person claims the FTF on top of this, I will verify the logbook, and delete his log. On the other hand, my containers are either easy to open, or the challenge is opening them - a duct taped ziploc is not a geocache container. If I find a geocache and was unable to open it (or didn't have a writing tool with me), I wouldn't claim a find. So far I was always able to open the container, and only once found myself without a pen but that time I bought one and returned to sign the log. There's a cache where I consider myself to be FTF, although technically I wasn't. I found the cache about three months after placement, the logbook was blank, so by my judgement I was the first finder. However a bear had found the container before me, broke it and scattered the contents around. Several months after logging the find (and NM), I stumbled upon another site where a guy blogs about his hike and find of this cache, and the container was in good shape - so before the bear. Since neither the bear nor this guy signed the logbook, I claimed the FTF.

No need for 4ft, 1ft is enough. Just found a cache like this. The container was almost the diameter of the pipe, and would rise slowly. In addition, water was also going into the ground (or coming out in other places than the holes). You had to continue pouring water while grabbing the cache, and the holes still needed to be covered, requiring three hands. Test the retrieval before publishing. 4ft of pipe might require a gallon of water to fill, making retrieval difficult if water is not available nearby.

I'm part of the subgroup that wants old caches to remain active. GC52EE was an old cache, placed before the second anniversary of geocaching. When an old cache gets archived, even if a new cache is placed in the same place, with the same container, logbook, listing, and a link to the old listing, the new cache won't have the "aura" of the old one. If the cache is not very old or the first cache in the county/region/country, I have no problem getting it archived. For newer caches (GC+5 digits), even if the owner wants to adopt them out, I'm not eager to adopt them. In case noone steps forward and adopts them, I would prefer to see them archived, and if the location is worth a cache I might place one myself. Answering the OP, it looks like those caches weren't "historic" ones. In those cases archiving and replacing seems to be the right move.

The first cache I found was a traditional, the second a multi, the third a virtual, the fourth should have been a mystery but I stopped 200 meters from it. The locationless caches were locked before I bought my GPSr, but after I learned about geocaching. At that time it irked me that an icon is no longer available for me, and I was mad because I could have logged some in 2005. I read the forums and used google-power to find a locationless not yet archived, and stumbled upon "Four Windows". I thought about logging it, but considered that logging a cache in Germany without visiting the place isn't right. Now I feel the same, and if locationless caches will be unlocked/brought back/etc, I still wouldn't log any.

Around here (Romania) FTFs are shared usually. My personal rule, if I'm caching with a group, I don't consider those finds as FTFs even if I'm the one who found the cache first.

I like puzzles and will take a look at yours, if you send it my way.

If the cache only requires using a 9V battery, then it's a traditional (or multi, if the battery is needed to get the coordinates for the next stage). Set the "Special tools required" attribute, people don't usually walk around with 9V batteries. If you need to figure out the quote needed to open the box, then it's a mystery (and a high difficulty one, given the need for special tools).

I log my DNF's also for my personal record. I log multiple DNF's for multiple searches on the same cache, although when the last two logs are my DNF's I'm reluctant to log a third one. Regarding the OP's dilemma: when backlogging, use the correct date, and you can either log or not log your DNF's, it doesn't really matter. For new searches however please log them.

I own a similar cache: - there are 3 intermediate waypoints and a final - the coords for the 3 intermediate ones are listed on the site, those for the final are hidden - at each intermediate stage you find a micro containing part of the coords for the final. You have to find any two of the three stages to be able to compute the final coords. My cache was listed as a multi. If I will place a cache like yours, I will list it either as a multi or as an unknown cache, depending on: - if I publish the 10 sets of coordinates for the 10 intermediate waypoints, then I list it as a multi; - if I publish only the bogus coordinates around which you have to locate the 10 intermediate stages (within a 30 feet radius), then I list it as a puzzle/unknown cache. My personal rule is: if the cache can be found by going to coordinates, getting some info, going to new coordinates, getting some more info, and so on until the final coordinates and container, it's a multicache. If the information you need is not at the coordinates, and you have to either research it from home or look around/ask locals/etc in the field, it's an unknown cache.

Two years ago I found a cache after a 2km hike in the woods. When I got back to the train station and opened my backpack to drink some water, I noticed my tripod was missing (the tripod was longer than the backpack and sticking out). I tracked my steps back all the way to the cache, but didn't found the tripod. The last place where I used it was another 4 km away, but it was already dusk, I had no flashlight and the last train was leaving in 30 minutes - I had no time to track back to the other cache. I looked around where I was standing, and found the tripod about 15 meters away. A branch pulled it out while I was going around GZ, trying to locate the cache. Finding a tripod in a black cover, on the dark ground, in the dark, which I had no idea where I dropped - that was a feat.

The time between the SBA log and archival varies, mostly depending on how much work you did. I only posted one SBA log and the cache was archived less than a day later. the owner was inactive for two years, I posted the NM a month before when I searched for the cache, sent an email to the owner, sent another one two weeks after that, and wrote in the SBA log about the inactiveness, the mails and posted a photo of the empty hiding place.