Muero

It makes a text file on the Oregon 600, which can be accessed directly by USB or can be used to log caches with programs like GSAK. Here's another answer that might help more: http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=314479

1. Go to the main screen of a:Drake 2. Tap "Filter" 3. Tap "Have found?" 4. Select "Not Found" 5. Press (hardware) back button 6. Tap "Search"

1. Select cache. 2. Tap "Navigate to Geocache" 3. Tap "Map" 4. Press "Menu" hardware button (the capacitive button on the bottom row of your phone) 4. Tap "Add Waypoint" 5. Yay! You can put in new waypoints now!

After updating, I tried to run the application. It crashed. Tried again. Crashed again. I restarted my iPhone and tried to run the application. It got as far as the "Would like to use your location" dialog box before crashing. Tried for a fourth time. Crashed immediately again. (I've never had this problem with the Geocaching app or any other app ever before.) I deleted the 1.1 app and re-installed 1.0 from the backup on my computer. 1.0 ran fine, and I tried updating again. No errors were reported, but 1.1 still crashes within a couple seconds every single time. After several more tries, and restarting the iPhone a few times (man, that really kills the battery!), I gave up. I deleted the 1.1 application from the iPhone and put the 1.0 version back on from the backup on the computer. I was planning on a long caching run tomorrow, and I need the Geocaching app to work, even if it's the "old" version.

Version 1.1 update is now available. New Features: Filters prior hides and finds with a Geocaching.com login New "more" option on the search results page to return more than 20 geocaches (up to 100) Saved items now sort by distance Bug Fixes: Navigation screen correctly shows miles/km based on program settings Fixed crashing bug when adding certain saved items Coordinate format corrected Issue with some caches near 0 degrees longitude corrected General stability improvements

The simplest way to describe the WiFi location function is that it works! If you go to "Maps" on your homescreen and tap the gunsight in the corner of the Map app, it will locate you, based on where the internet juice is flowing in and out of your wifi router. My Touch does it wherever there is wifi within a pretty good range. It doesn't matter where the "internet juice is flowing." You don't have to be connected to Wi-Fi at all for it to determine your location. As long as there is a Wi-Fi signal somewhere reasonably close, it will work. Even if the signal is too weak to actually use for accessing the Internet, it will work. Even if the network is protected, and you don't have the password, it will work. Skyhook has people who drive around the world in vehicles with very sensitive antennas for picking up 802.11 Wi-Fi networks. They detect the MAC address and the approximate location where the signal is coming from, based on signal strength from multiple locations. Users can also submit their router's MAC address and location to their website online. According to their website, "Skyhook has mapped the location of tens of millions of access points worldwide with extensive coverage in North America, Europe and Asia." So the effective range of the Wi-Fi signal for use with Skyhook is larger than for the range of the signal to actually use the signal for browsing or whatever. But yeah, if you're out in the woods, Skyhook WPS (Wi-Fi Positioning System) won't work. That's really only a problem on the iPod Touch, though, since the first-generation iPhone can still use cell tower triangulation (though not as accurate) and the iPhone 3G can use A-GPS. Some interesting info: The more Wi-Fi networks in range, the more accurate the Skyhook WPS will be. Skyhook WPS is also used by Eye-Fi's SD memory cards to add geotagging to digital cameras.

Wrong. SkyHook Wi-Fi positioning uses the router's MAC address (unique to every device), not the SSID, so even if every wireless router in the world had "linksys" as its SSID, Wi-Fi positioning would still work.

That was the first time I had ever tried that "Driving Directions" link on the cache page. The iPhone did use it correctly, but it still doesn't solve my problem. The "Driving Directions" link only lets you do driving directions from your home coordinates to the cache coordinates. It's impossible to edit the directions to use "Current Location" as the "From" field, which is what I would always want to use. I used to be able to go on a caching run using the driving directions provided by the iPhone 3G's GPS receiver and the "Google Maps" link on the cache page, and it was incredibly handy. I obviously don't want to have to return home before going to each new cache just to have proper driving directions.

Try searching for "GC1F0CK@N 39° 48.330 W 084° 15.980" (without quotations) in Google Maps. Then, in the little dialog box on the map, click "To here." I think you're clicking the "Click Directions" link on the left, outside of the map view, which does still work. I don't know why one works and one doesn't, but I've always clicked the link in the dialog box, and I desperately need it to work on the iPhone as well, like it used to.

Countless times I have clicked the "Google Maps" link on a cache page, then clicked the "Get directions - To here" button to acquire driving directions. I also used this on my iPhone (the "Google Maps" link opens the Maps.app application on the iPhone) and it's great to find caches this way. Just recently, both the browser version of Google Maps and the iPhone application version have stopped being able to provide driving directions from links from Geocaching.com. Instead, it uses the waypoint name, like GCXXXX, as the destination address, which it doesn't know how to read. This is an incredibly annoying bug which would also be incredibly easy to fix. Instead of using "GC1F0CK@N 39° 48.330 W 084° 15.980" as the search term in Google Maps, just drop the waypoint name and use the coordinates (the way it used to be). It may not look as pretty to see the coordinates on the map compared to the tidier waypoint name, but at least the coordinates are usable in Google Maps that way, unlike the waypoint name. (I searched and didn't find anything about this topic. If this has already been discussed, please just link to the any relevant information.) P.S. Those example coordinates up there for that puzzle cache are the bogus ones, so no need to worry about any spoilers.

I purchased PosiMotion's G-Spot application for $1.99 to test it out. Here's a screenshot. I tested it side-by-side with my 60CSx, which gave the coordinates as "N 39.88642 W 084.17532" and the elevation as 291 meters. The difference between the coordinates on the two devices comes out to 35 feet, while the elevation differs by 61 meters. Currently there are no settings to change the format/units of the coordinates and distance, so I had to change the settings on my 60CSx to compare them side-by-side. Note: This is very much a preliminary test of a very-early GPS application for the iPhone. Using it in different areas may give better/worse results, and it's possible that the accuracy of the iPhone's GPS capabilities will improve with firmware updates and better apps. The 17-meter accuracy doesn't look all that great for geocaching (there really wasn't much tree/building cover at all), so I hope it improves. I agree that using the Google Maps satellite imagery could do a decent job of getting you close enough to hunt caches. I'll keep testing this and other GPS/geocaching apps, as I still hope the iPhone becomes the incredible geocaching tool I envisioned when it was announced.

Did everybody see TUAW's article on geocaching with the iPhone 3G? Overall, it was pretty good, but they made the same mistake this person did: On the Geocaching.com page, just scroll down to the "For online maps..." section and tap "Google Maps" (not the "Geocaching.com Google Map). It will automatically open the Maps application and put a little pin with the coordinates. It's much faster and easier than typing in the coordinates.

I agree that a cache that requires a picture or a story in the log or something like that is much different from a cache with a puzzle to solve to get the coordinates, and I was surprised to learn recently that these caches are now being lumped together. I often don't bother to read the "blue question mark" caches not because I have anything against them, but I seem to have such a hard time solving them that I only check them out when I'm in a puzzle-solving mood. I hope there aren't any good caches I've overlooked just because they required a picture.

While that is technically true, I still try to always trade these items fairly as well. They are usually more expensive than other items in the cache, so I would consider not trading these items fairly even worse than doing so with "regular" swag.

I had no idea I'd get such a negative response just by requiring fair trading if the cacher chooses to trade. I also did not know that my cache no longer fit in the traditional cache guidelines. Anyway, I deleted the text I added in January and e-mailed the one geocacher whose log is now deleted. I copied and pasted the old log in the e-mail and asked her to re-log it. So I hope I cleared everything up. But I do have a question for Keystone or any other reviewer: Why do countless other caches have listed requirements but can still be traditional? I don't really have a problem with it myself, since I always read and fulfill the requirements. But according to the rules, I guess they should be mystery caches? I'm not trying to change the rules or anything, but I guess that's why I thought my cache was okay, because I've seen similar things on lots of other traditional caches. Is the definition of a traditional "a cache that anyone can find without proof or the find, without placing the cache as you found it, without trading fairly, and without any rules for the finder whatsoever; throw this in the river if you like"?

Good arguments on both sides. So far, it seems the argument is over requiring certain things be done to log the find. But I have a different situation to think about: I have a coin-themed cache, and after spending a whole bunch of money trying to keep it stocked with coins, I eventually decided to require leaving at least as many coins as are taken. Of course, any finder doesn't need to take or leave anything to log the find, but I added the stipulation so others will actually find coins in the coin-themed cache without me having to take out a loan to buy more and more coins. Today, I had to delete a log for the first time. I felt a little bad about it, but nothing extra is actually required of any cacher and my simple rule is spelled out very very clearly on the cache page. (As a side note, the unfair coin traders so far have always been Premium Members, so that rules out that solution.) Is there any other (nicer) way to encourage cachers to read cache pages carefully and/or just always trade fairly? Also, I've found many traditional caches that in some way or another require the cache to be put back just the way it was found. That's really quite similar to my rule, and I've never heard any arguments against the put-it-back-how-you-found-it-rule. Otherwise, what would stop me from me signing my name to the log and then throwing every cache I find in the river? I see no problem with this kind of rule.

I've always wanted to create a geocoin with freethought, science, atheism, rational thinking, etc. as the theme. I would love to have the scarlet "A" from the Out Campaign (see Richard Dawkins's website) as part of the design. Thanks for starting this thread and count me in as part of the group.

I recently used a 60CSx on a flight, and the altitude topped out around 7,000 feet, because it used the barometric altimeter. I decided to try a Legend Cx on the same flight, and it showed our cruising altitude to be around 35,000 feet, which I assume was about right. The GPSr can use triangulation to get a 3D fix on your location (that's how the Legend Cx got the altitude), but I do not know how or if you can turn off the 60CSx's barometric altimeter. At least it got the 2D location and speed correct (top speed was 632 mph).

1. I use a Garmin GPSMap 60CSx. 2. I usually can remember most info I need after reading the cache name, but for more info, hints, etc., I use my iPhone. The wap.geocaching.com site is very easy to use and loads quickly even on cell phone networks, so I just access the info on-the-go, usually when I'm having trouble finding a cache. I don't think I've ever printed out any cache pages to take along. 3. I also use GSAK. It's nice to have one program to load a few days worth of caches onto several GPSrs. I use it to send caches to two Garmins and one Magellan. 4. I use MapSource to transfer the City Navigator maps to the 60CSx for auto-routing. I also have the TOPO maps, but at least for the caches I find around me, City Navigator is exponentially more useful than the TOPO.

How can you not be impressed with the 60CSx's sensitivity? I can keep it in my pants pocket, with the whole unit covered in fabric, and it still has 20-ft accuracy. When my father and I go caching, he often loses the signal with lots of trees around or even in the car when his Legend Cx is not on the dashboard. I've never seen my 60CSx lose its signal . . . anywhere . . . ever. I've heard the new "H" models are supposed to have the same sensitivity of the 60CSx with even better battery life. Some optional GPS features, like 2-way radio, compass, altimeter, serial connectivity, external antenna connectivity, etc, are not necessary, but I really think that the high-sensitivity receiver is worth the extra money.