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Everything posted by qlenfg

  1. You can use a beep on the Colorado -- it doesn't have a sound chip or speaker, only a beeper.
  2. So thats what poison ivy really looks like -- I would have never guessed from book pictures. That explains the rash on my arm. I took a shower right after caching, but apparently my phone case was exposed and several days later my arm broke out from touching the case.
  3. I'm assuming you really need a USB to serial adapter and not the other way around. Anyhow, I have a Tripp-Lite USB to serial adapter that works very well under Windows and Linux. I tried several other brands and they either didn't work or worked intermittently. Keep in mind you need to follow the installation instructions explicitly -- if it says to install the driver from the CD *before* plugging in the cable, do so. Otherwise the cable won't work properly. Also, some drivers create a different virtual serial port for each USB port, and you may have to install the driver multiple times to use all the USB ports. If you install the drivers per the instructions and use the same USB port each time it should work fine, assuming the Garmin software will support COM5 and above.
  4. You might check the weekly Groundspeak email to see if there are any geocaching events coming up close enough you can attend. This is the best and safest way to get started. Not that geocaching is a dangerous sport, but this will let you earn which caches are within your level of fitness and ability, etc... Might also pull up a list of geocaches in your area and email the cache owner or recent local finders to see if they want to cache with you.
  5. I've got the latest builder and the example I gave was one I was using to display a timer value when the player reached the zone. The timer tick is every second and it updates this variable, which is displayed later.
  6. If you are using the unit in the car or as a handheld, you should have no battery issues and won't need to do a thing to keep the unit working. Mine vibrated around on a motorcycle for two years, first with the Garmin bicycle mount, then with a RAM mount. Much harder on a unit than normal use. Once I fixed it, it was fine until I replaced it with a newer GPS. What happens is the batteries bounce around in the holder and eventually bend or break the battery terminals. I found some thin rubber / cork gasket material left over from something at work and slipped a thin strip behind each pair of battery connections to make the batteries fit tighter. I bought the unit in '99, and as of 6 months ago it still worked fine.
  7. Unfortunately, yes. I forgot that the eMaps came 'naked' and everything was optional. If I recall correctly, the early firmware did not properly work with rechargeable batteries and assumed a fully charged set was a weak set of alkalines. Not sure why yours failed to work with a new set of regular batteries, unless they were weak from sitting in the store a long time. Also, the battery connections are very prone to vibration and get spring very easily, which causes the unit to randomly shut off. After a couple of years on a motorcycle mine required some cork shims behind the terminals to keep the battery connection tight.
  8. Display a message, and make the text like this: [[it took you ]]..variable_name..[[ minutes to get here.]]
  9. Have you updated to the latest firmware? They fixed alot of issues on the eMap by the time the final units shipped.
  10. In looking at the big picture, it appears the GPS is assuming it lost signal and its doing what its supposed to do when it regains the signal -- connecting where it was last with where it is now. Not that it should actually do this when you intentionally power it off, but apparently it is. Not sure about the Delorme models, but with Garmins if you save the track you can view the track in Mapsource and it will tell you how long it is -- a possible work-around if the trip computer records the total mileage.
  11. Another good reason for the hider to put the GC# on the documentation, logs and container. Sounds like maybe the cache was vandalized and you found some remains, or perhaps that sheet fell out of the cache when someone was visiting it. In any case, thanks for trying to track down who it belongs to -- most folks wouldn't even bother to pick it up and throw it away. If you can provide a more accurate description of where you found it, perhaps with Google maps, maybe a local cacher can track down the cache for you.
  12. Note that the Colorado internal memory with show up with a blue triangle icon under Windows -- the SD card will not.
  13. Do a hard reset and save the profile files to your PC.
  14. Microsoft apparently had issues with SP3 for Windows XP recently. If you are running XP and have installed SP3, this may be an issue. Most of the issues were related to computers with AMD processors and spontaneous reboots, but who knows what else may be affected.
  15. Some people print out a sheet for each cache they go to find. Its usually a full page with the cache GC #, the name of the cache, coordinates, a description of the cache and a small map. If this is what you found, it probably just fell out of someone's pocket and its trash. If its a small strip of sheets or a small notepad, its probably a log sheet. It should have a list of names and dates on it, and hopefully a disclaimer page and the GC # of the cache. If there is a GC #, you can go to geocaching.com and find out who it belongs to. Or post the GC # here and someone should be able to help you track down the cache owner.
  16. We were out caching today near a well-used bike trail and as someone rode by and said 'hello' they said 'out geocaching too?' I noticed someone had hit several caches just before us today -- probably the same folks.
  17. Wonder if you could use one of those old suction cup phone pickup devices and a small amplifier to boost the sound level in the car?
  18. We went out caching today in some pretty dense woods and the Colorado was all over. It behaved almost as if the compass was on. One minute I was 20 feet from the cache, the next minute 60 feet. Had to pull out the hiking compass and use it to figure out which way north really was. With a clear shot at the sky it was much more accurate. Still went 8 for 8 including a couple of micros that were pretty tough, but I think my old iFinder Go2 would have done better. Got a couple of more caches in the same area to get later on -- will take the other GPSr and compare.
  19. I got my copy of CNNA NT 2008 about the middle of March and activated it. I registered it on garmin.com last night, but no updates were showing up. Do I have to call them for an update CD?
  20. While the documentation may not say what batteries you can't use, it probably does say which batteries *to* use -- ie AA alkaline, AA NiMH and AA lithium. If the other batteries are not specified as AA replacements, then the warranty will probably be rejected.
  21. Got it figured out. For some reason the cartridge was crashing when I tried to display a message when you entered the zone. I moved the display message routine to a separate task and it worked fine when I called it from the zone routine. Threw in the basic timer display and it still worked. I'll add the rest of the features and hopefully it will still work.
  22. First, let me say I'm very new to Wherigo, so be gentle. With that being said, I'll throw out a couple of comments about issues I found recently which may be related. As a test, I set up a simple guided tour which told you you were getting closer and closer to the final location. When you reached the location it would display the time it took to get there. Ran fine on the emulator -- not so on the Colorado. The program worked fine as you approached the outer two areas surrounding the zone, but crashed when you entered the zone. At first I thought it was the math calculation for converting the time from seconds to minutes, but I removed the calculation and used seconds, and it still crashed. I removed the display of the time, and it crashed also. I reworked the program tonight, calling tasks from the zone to display the messages and time in seconds, and it worked fine on the Colorado. This may be related to the issues you are having, and if so it may be a work-around.
  23. Sounds a bit pricey to me. $40 will get you a good USB GPSr and $50 will get you a good Bluetooth one. With a USB stick you would need an extension cable or you'd have to stick your laptop up on the dash to get a good signal.
  24. This is my Tablet PC / GPS / MP3 / Video Player
  25. I see the same routing issue on the highway when the Colorado routes me one way and I take the known better route. One exit in particular has an elevated ramp that parallels the highway for probably 1/2 mile before it turns 90 degrees and goes down to the intersecting highway. If I continue straight and don't take the exit, it still shows me on the ramp and doesn't re-route until I am a good distance away from the 90-degree section of ramp. On city streets, the re-routing may take 1/10 mile turning off a road with a 45 MPH speed limit onto a neighborhood street. On surface streets with a 30 MPH limit it seems to re-route within 100-150 feet of passing the intersection it wants me to turn at. Still haven't figured out if its a speed, distance or speed limit algorithm Garmin uses to decide when to re-route. In any case, its not perfect -- but I have not used any other brand or type of GPS with routing to compare it to. On the city streets it does a good job of routing you to a cache, with the exception of trying to use private roads in apartment complexes if they take you closer to the cache than a city street. I'm thinking named mapped apartment complex roads are treated the same as real roads.
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