Whittling Fisher

I have been thinking about changing my username (mainly because it isn't something you can easily say when someone asks you what your name is). I lookedat another topic (http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=187133), and know how to change it, I just have some questions about what will happen when I do. 1- Will my name change in logs that I have written for previously found caches (or will the old name still be there, or will the old name remain along with a duplicate log for the new name)? 2- Will the data (# found, hidden, etc) stay the same for the new name? 3- Will the old username and profile be deleted after the new one is created? I guess I am just curious if there are any weird side effects to changing your username or if it causes any problems. I didn't put much thought into my name at first and just used a username I was using for email at school. I'll make sure not to make that mistake again. Thanks for any help and suggestions

I don't have Topo 2008, but from what I've heard it shouldn't cause any problems. After you select a cache on the map and press GOTO, you should select Off Road. You may then have to page forward to the "Active Route" which will give you a compass type display with the arrow pointing to the cache (if you don't select "off road" I don't think this page will be displayed). This is the page with the options to "find", "note", or "stop" at the bottom. You can check to make sure this page is till in your page sequence by pressing menu twice (this takes you to the main menu) and then selecting "Setup". Next select "Page Seq" and see if "Active Route" is there. If not you can add the page on that screen. These are just some ideas. I'm sure you already know most of that stuff, but maybe it will spark something that will help.

The second picture looks like it is a Geodetic Benchmark (a surveyor's disc). They are used in the US to mark accurate positions along the landscape for surveying.

How many map segments did you load to your GPS? If you just selected an area near your house, it may just be showing cities in that area. You can load more segments and try again. Also, are you pushing "Find", then "Cities", and then once on that page hitting "Menu" to find cities by name? If you don't push menu and type it in it usually just shows the closest cities to your current location. You also asked if you needed to switch modes when caching. I usually use the navigation (follow roads) when getting to the cache location. Once I arrive, I switch to the map screen, hit menu and recalculate using "off road". That seems to work for me.

There is a website to help you find some caches along some of the more popular cruise destinations - <http://www.geocachingcruises.com/index.html>. When we went to Mexico I usually just turned the GPS on once in the morning and once at night to let it get a position fix while we were out in open water heading to a port. It helps to let the GPS know where it is at and will lessen the time to get a fix once you arrive at the port. It is also neat to plot the points from each morning and night to see where the cruise ship actually was and a rough route that it took. Have fun on your crusie and while caching.

I'm not exactly sure what the limit is. I am pretty sure that I have seen people using 2GB without any problems. The main problem is the map segment limit. You will probably hit that before you actually get 2GB worth of data on the card.

I used to live in NC and still geocache in the western part of NC when visiting family. It is hard deciding on which unit to get first. My first GPS was the regular basic yellow Garmin etrex, and it worked fairly well and helped me find my first 100 caches. The only complaint with it is that under heavy tree cover (no view of the sky at all), it would loss its lock on satellites. So as a starter GPS for a child, it would work fine. As for the Legendcx vs the Vistacx, there is one main difference. The Vistacx has an electronic compass. This means that even standing still the GPS unit will point in the proper direction when using the GOTO waypoint or geocache feature. The Legendcx does not have an electronic compass. In order for it to point in the correct direction, you have to be moving (walking slowly is all you need). I think it looks at the direction the GPS is moving in and determines what direction you need to be going. If you do decide to go with the Legendcx, I would recommend getting the Venturecx instead. It does not come with the memory or data cable, but you will probably decide to buy a larger card anyway if you decide to buy maps and use the GPS for autorouting (another great feature). As for the 60csx, that is what I am using now. It had everything I wanted in a GPS and works great for caching and autorouting in the car. It also has the electronic compass like the Vista. But, it has a SirfIII chip (it keeps a strong lock on satellite signals) that works great under heavy tree cover and in areas that the etrex may have problems. You can find more info here on the boards about the Sirf chip and how it works if you are interested. Another thing to think about is the shape and size of the etrex vs the 60csx. Some people like the small compact feeling of the etrex since it fairly easily will fit in a shirt pocket. It also has a small joystick used to navigate around on the screen. Other people like the larger screen and the increased reception of the 60csx. It is just a matter of preference. If you have some geocachers that you can go caching with in your area, ask them about what they are using and see if they will let you try it out while you are with them. This is a good way to see if you really like the electronic compass, or if you find it kind of useless as some people do. Whatever you decide to get, have fun geocaching

If you get a cable to connect to your computer, you can download geocaches and load them to your unit. If you are a premium member, you can download pocket quarries (up to 500 caches, for example the nearest 500 to your home coordinates or zipcode) to your email address. This really saves time from having to enter the coordinates by hand, and eliminates any chance that you will enter the wrong coordinates. If you are a regular member, you will be limited to downloading a few caches at a time. But it will still save from having to enter the coordinates by hand. The data cable can also be used to get waypoints off your gps (if you took some points and want to look at them on a map) and also download tracks from your gps. I already had Mapsource Topo software from work, so I am not sure what software you will need to use on your computer. I think that Mapsource Trip and Waypoints manager (usually comes free with a garmin gps) or EasyGPS (free program from internet) or GSAK (another program off the internet that is free at first but then needs to be registered for $20 - find either under the Resources button on Geocaching.com) will manage waypoints (geocaches) and send them to your GPS unit. Overall, if you geocache quite a bit, the cable will be really handy to transfer the geocache coordinates. It will save you some time and is a lot easier than manually entering the data.

Here are the changes from the previous version, just in case anyone was curious. Changes made from version 6.12.2 to 6.12.3: * Fixed an issue transferring routes to the Zumo. * Fixed an issue with the integration of Google Earth and MapSource. * Fixed an issue with the size estimate of selected map sets.

Most people I have met geocaching use a Garmin or Magellan. I personally prefer Garmin, but like I said that is just me. Both seem to work very well. Another thing you need to consider is what you want the GPS to be able to do. A simple Garmin etrex with a black and white screen will get you to a cache, but won't have any detailed maps. If you go up to a Etrex Venture Cx, then you will have a color screen and expandable memory to add maps (this is important if you want a GPS unit to cache with and use in the car for navigation). There are better units (Garmin 60Cx), but that is probably more than you want to spend since your budget is in the 100-200 range. I am not sure about Magellan's lineup of GPS units, but they seem to have similar counterparts to what I described for Garmin.

I am pretty sure that you can't autoroute on US topo maps. I have heard that you can autoroute on the more detailed topo maps for national parks, but not the regular topo maps.

As far as I know, the main difference is the look and button placement. I think that the 76 is more suited towards marine use since it floats, but both work great. Also, the 76 comes with a larger micro SD card when you buy it.

I haven't had any real experience with the external antennas, but from what I have heard they do not help much with the new 60/76CSx. I have a new 60CSx and it is extremely sensitive and never loses satellite locks in heavy tree cover. I hike in areas with a lot of tree cover and some steep valleys and have not had any problems with it. My old etrex however is a completely different story. I think that the 76CSx would probably act the same as the 60CSx and maintain a strong signal without the need of an external antenna.

I think I know what you are talking about in your second question. You can change the sequence that pages are shown on your GPS by going to the Main Menu, selecting Setup, then selecting Page Sequence. You can then highlight the page name and hit enter to move it to where you want. Other than that, you can just press the Page and Quit buttons to move forward and backwards through the pages.

I had a similar problem with my old yellow etrex. My 60csx worked fine using the USB, but Mapsource could not find the etrex using the serial cable. My problem was that I had a Palm IIIxe that uses a serial cable to HotSync. If you don't turn off the setting for the Palm, then Mapsource will not find the GPS. As soon as I turned off the HotSync option to use serial, Mapsource worked perfectly with the etrex's serial cable. I don't know if you use a Palm or some other device that also uses a serial cable, but if you do this may fix your problem.

I just played around with the coords you gave, and it looks like you need to use Lat/Lon hddd.ddddd in order for the point to be near Ray Roberts Lake in north Texas (also use WGS 84 as the datum). These settings can be changed on both your compter and GPS. Most people here use WGS 84 and hddd mm.mmm since this is how geocaches are listed. For example, you can use N33.40933 W096.95098 (hddd.ddddd) or you could use N33 24.560 W96 57.059 (hdd mm.mmm). The only difference is one uses degrees with decimal degrees and the other has converted the decimal degrees into minutes. Think of it like hours, minutes, and seconds. Again, for geocaching you definately want your GPS set to WGS 84. If you load geocache points from your computer, it really won't matter what format (hddd.dddd of hdd mm.mmm) it is in since the computer will make the changes. However, if you hand load the points (manually enter the numbers into the GPS) then you need to set your GPS to hddd mm.mmm. Hope all this helps and isn't too confusing.

I use the neoprene case by Garmin while I am carrying mine in the woods (part no. 010-10578-00). There are also some similar neoprene cases (I think by Gilsson) that many people like. Both add some protection to the screen if you drop it or something. As far as the AC adapter, I doubt you will need it. If I remember correctly, when you plug your GPS into your computer using the USB cable the GPS unit does not draw power from the batteries. Most of the time if you are playing with the GPS in the house it will be hooked up to your computer anyway. Another accessory you might consider is a 12 volt car adapter for when you are using it to navigate somewhere. This probably won't be as important until you buy the map software that autoroutes. The only other thing you may want to buy is a larger memory card once you start using your unit to navigate on the road and in the woods. The one that comes with it will be fine if you don't travel far, but if you want a lot of maps for taking road trips you may need to get more memory. Hope you enjoy your new GPS as much as I have.

I just answered a very similar question in another topic just a minute ago. This can be very confusing at first. Here is the topic: http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=147219

You have to load both City Nav and Topo maps at the same time (If you load one map set and then reload another later, it erases the first). In order to load both at the same time, just need to switch from City Nav to Topo in the upper left corner of Mapsource. Select all Topo and City Nav maps you want to load to your memory card before sending to the GPS. After you have both types on the GPS, you can "hide or show" either City Nav or Topo. City Nav will almost always show up on the map screen, so you have to hide it in order for the topo maps to show up. This is fairly simple to do (while on the screen with the map, hit Menu, Setup Map, scroll over to where all the map files are and hit Menu again, then you can select to hide/show City Nav and Topo. I usually hide Topo while using City Nav since it helps reduce the reload time for the map when you scroll on it. Hope this helps.

I'm not exactly sure what you are wanting, but I will give it a shot. First, you have to load both topo and city nav maps at the same time to your gps. If you had topo maps on the memory card and then transfered city nav maps to it later, it will erase the topo maps. Second, if you have both topo and city nav on your gps you can choose to show one or the other when viewing an area. (While on the map page, hit menu, Setup map, scroll over to the icon that shows all the maps you have loaded and hit Menu again, then select Show or Hide US Topo or City Nav). I usually choose to hide Topo while I am navigating on roads (reduces the reload time for maps when I scroll around on them) and then choose to hide City Nav and Show Topo when I get to the cache area. As far as the 2GB card, it will definately hold all of the City Nav maps for the eastern US and probably most of the Topo maps. There is a limit to the number of map segments you can load last time I checked (something like 2025) so you might run into a problem with the number of small topo map segments. Hope this helps some.

I really like this idea. I may have to give that a shot. Are those pens easy to find? I just bought a pack last night at Wal-Mart for a small cache that I am getting ready to place. I figured it would fit in the container easier and I could use the rest for logging caches I find.

Just my opinion, but you could get a Garmin 60csx ($409.99), a used Palm IIIxe off Ebay ($20-30), cachemate to use on the Palm to organize your caches ($8), and GSAK($20) or EasyGPS(free). All of that would still be under $500. If you do buy a 60csx, you may want to consider saving up a little more and buying Mapsource Topo if you hike alot, or City Navigator if you want to use the unit in the car to navigate along roads. Each program is about $100. If you consider using those programs you may also want to get a larger memory card which will run you about $25 or so. I am using the 60csx and Palm IIIxe combination and it works great for me. If you do not want the electronic compass or altimeter, you may consider the cheaper option of the 60cx. I am sure there are other options too, depending on exactly what you are wanting. Good luck searching for a new GPS. (I just noticed that you have a Palm IIIc. I am not sure, but that would probably also work using cachemate.)

I don't know if City Navigator version 8 is unlocked the same as version 7 (what I have), but it should work the same. I looked under the help menu in mapsource and here is what it said. To unlock a map region: 1. Select Unlock Maps from the Utilities menu or press Ctrl+U. The UnlockWizard opens. Click Next to advance to the next screen. 2. If you have a 25-character unlock code, select Yes, I have a 25-character Unlock Code. 3. If you have an 8-character coupon code, want to unlock maps for a second GPS unit, or want to purchase an additional unlock code with your credit card, select No, I need to get a 25-character Unlock Code. NOTE: This option requires an Internet connection. 4. Click Next, then follow the steps on the screen. It looks like there should be an option to input the code you have instead of going through the internet steps again. Hope this helps.

1. I'm not sure how large you can make the numbers, but the directions zoom in and and show a big arrow right before a turn 2. I am using City Navigator version 7. It works great to navigate along the roads. 3. I use it both to drive and cache. When you select a point (or cache) you can select for the unit to "follow the road" or "follow off road (straight line)". Just select to follow roads until you get to some parking, and then hit menu on the map page, recalculate, and select "off road" to have a normal straight line to walk to the cache. 4. You can load both topo and city navigator (city select) to the memory card at the same time. You just have to select all the maps at once (select CN or CS and then select the Topos) before loading to the card. I have a 512 MB card and have most of the East Coast for City Nav and a lot of north GA, east TN, and west NC in Topos. I don't remember exactly, but I think all of New England is about 60MB using City Nav. I am not sure how much the topo maps take up. It would depend on how many of them you want. Each one is small, but it takes a lot of them if you want the entire state. Hope this helps.

Thanks for giving me the link. This worked great and fixed the card to where the computer could read it again. I just loaded maps using a card reader and the GPS was able to read it just fine. I guess it must have got corrupted when I loaded the maps using the GPS. Hopefully this won't happen again while on a trip away from my computer. Thanks again for all the help. For anyone else having this same problem, this was a simple and easy fix using the low level format software above. Now I can find my way around again