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Everything posted by JSWilson64

  1. Yes, you can use a 1 gig card, or a 2 gig card. There are restrictions, you just need a "plain vanilla" micro SD, not the Ultra II or SDHC. Someone else can probably clarify. 2GB is the biggest you can use in the 60CSx, from what I read here. I think some users have reported the NT maps can "hiccup" when re-drawing, due to the extra compression. I've got my 1GB card loaded up with almost all of CONUS from Metro Guide, and it redraws quickly enough for me.
  2. Are you running the latest firmware? Use the webupdater to spiff up your unit's firmware and chipset software - that might help. I wouldn't say my 60CSx takes an inordinate amount of time to lock. Usually I roll my bike out of the garage, hit the power button, put on my helmet, hit the garage door button, and start riding. By the time I get to the end of the block, it's locked. And no, my block isn't 5 miles long...
  3. Since you're able to load maps, you know that the card does work. So the issue is somewhere in the difference between "send to GPS" and "mass storage" mode. USB can be really frustrating to diagnose - I have a camera that won't connect via an un-powered hub. Here's a couple more dumb things to try (only do one at a time so you'll know what worked): 1. What USB port are you connecting to on your computer? If you're using a front-panel connector or a USB hub, try one of the ports directly on the motherboard. If you're using a motherboard connector already, switch to another one. If you've got to use a hub, sometimes whether it's powered or not makes a difference, too. 2. Check that the SD card is seated (i.e., pull it out and re-seat it). 3. Re-seat the USB cable connectors on both ends. 4. Try a different USB cable. 5. Try a USB card reader, rather than your GPS. You can get a miniature SD card reader for less than $5 that's not much bigger than a USB flash drive at NewEgg or Fry's or other electronics places. It seems faster to transfer maps to my SD card using that as opposed to uploading to GPS, anyway...
  4. Shouldn't that be, "Prone after crashes" ??? >.< sorry, couldn't resist...
  5. Have you loaded the drivers? You need to download them from the Garmin site if you haven't already done so. When you plug your 60CSx into your computer and turn it on, what does your computer do? What OS are you running?
  6. I'd agree 60CSx, too -- that's what I've got, along with an older Etrex Legend. It really depends on what you like. The Etrex models use the click-stick for menu navigation, and I hate it, especially when using it on my bicycle. It's hard to "click" without moving it sideways while I'm riding. Anyway, that's a personal preference. The Vista HCx is pretty well liked around here, it's an Etrex form factor. The 60CSx and 76CSx are pretty much the same inside, only one has the buttons below the screen and sinks in water, and the other has the buttons above the screen and floats in water. I'd say go to REI, Wal-Mart, Best Buy (?) or somewhere else that carries GPS units and try some before buying one. If you don't want or need the altimeter/barometer/compass, you can save some $$$ buying the "Cx" version instead of the "CSx".
  7. I use the Garmin mount for my 60CSx. And secure the GPS lanyard to the stem in case the mount fails...
  8. Am I correct in thinking Texas isn't available yet? If there was a way to do this as a distributed computing project, I'd lend CPU cycles in a heartbeat. i.e., MapCrunching@Home...
  9. You may want to double-check this - I think the internal memory only stores waypoints, tracks, & routes. Unless I'm mistaken, Garmin units with SD slots store map data on the SD card - no memory card, no map. Colorado may be different, but that's how the 60-series works.
  10. The Colorado has an internal disk? I love it when people say "disk" when they have no idea what it is or isn't.
  11. You may own the hardware, but you don't own the firmware / software that runs on it. Here's a new idea, piggy backed on yours: How 'bout a state data set? City Navigator + Topo for a state or region. Add Blue Chart for a bit more $$. I'd guess if someone could buy their state's data, or their region's data, for $30 - $50 (depending on the size and quality of the product), and offer the ability to add to it up to a max cost for the whole set, there'd be very little problem with piracy. Save for the people, like you said, that simply want to prove they could do it, or the old-school guys who believe software only needs to be paid for once, by one person, then copied and shared with everyone. And a question: Why are the 1:24,000 national parks maps not included in Topo USA? Are they not topographical maps, of the USA? Under this model, I guess we could see City Navigator, plus a separate, more detailed product for big cities. (don't listen to that part, anyone from Garmin )
  12. Then why doesn't NavTeq / TeleAtlas just release it? I hear what you're saying, but I have a hard time believing that their data provider told them that "North America" only includes the U.S. and Canada, or that maps should cost $X.xx, or that you can't simply release an update of street names, or that you can't offer free updates, etc. Maybe "one license, one device." But if the data providers are dictating Garmin's (and Magellan's and TomTom's and whoever else's) business model, that'll get 'em sued at least in the U.S.A.).
  13. Which has got to be even more galling to Garmin than if they were selling it for $50. Can you imagine it? You sell a product, and then someone comes along and doesn't just take it, they basically give your product away to other people! If someone was stealing from you, wouldn't it gripe you if they were just giving your stuff away?
  14. Maybe this has come up before, but here goes... If you had licensed map data from NavTeq or TeleAtlas, how would you sell your maps? And how would you prevent their transfer to unauthorized/unlicensed users? We've all got our pet peeves about Garmin, et al. about how much the maps cost, how they're updated, and so on. But have you really thought about how to make a better system? Maybe you've got some ideas they'd like to hear. I, for one, think Garmin's model is onerous and old-fashioned. Think about it - in the digital age, why should I have to update the entire "North America" map (which is a misnomer, really - since there's no Mexico data) every freakin' year or so? There's no way to just add the new stuff? Heck, even Microsoft has figured out how to update portions of software. (overly simplistic, but you get the idea) For that matter, why should I have to buy all of North America, when all I want is a few states? I have no need for up-to-date maps of Quebec this year - why should I have to buy it? I can see how it'd be difficult to implement - stuff like trying to use a 2006 Ohio map with a 2009 WV and a 2008 KY might not work so good... But who wouldn't just buy a state or two if they were reasonably priced? What if I just wanted refreshed POI data? (Not that it's terribly up-to-date, anyway) At the same time, I understand Garmin's strategy of locking maps to a particular receiver. If the box says you have X licenses, they have the right to enforce it. What I don't agree with is the inability to de-install and unlock a device and install to another. I think if they could implement some way to untie the maps from the hardware, most users would be ok with it. And I haven't even addressed piracy yet. What's the definition, anyway? Is MetroWizzz pirating anything? The data is all there, it's just re-indexing some of it. I heard that when Windows NT first came out, the "Server" and "workstation" CDs were basically the same, with slightly different parts being installed. Server cost a lot more. Guess what was quickly figured out? Was that piracy? What about homemade maps? Reading the license, one could argue that you're adding data to the map database on your Garmin unit, and therefore it's not allowed. Keygens & cracks certainly fall into the realm of piracy (at least in my mind), yet where there's an algorithm, there's someone who will want to try and break it. What's a software company to do? Every software copy protection scheme has been hacked, cracked, broken, reverse-engineered, or circumvented in some way. Even hardware locks aren't immune -- USB dongles can be emulated, or the software can be changed to remove the need for the lock. If it's a valuable program, once it's released in the wild, it's only a matter of time before it's opened up (nobody's going to bother hacking something that's free, or low-cost). Some say piracy costs millions of dollars, others have said they probably don't make that much profit off maps, they're just passing along the licensing costs. If you developed software / maps, and made your living off of them, how would YOU protect yourself? I'm sure there will be discussion of those points, but I'll start a list of what would be better, in my opinion: 1. Lower total cost of ownership of map products. Here are some options: - Offer map sets a la carte - let me pick and choose what states or regions I want, at a lower cost. - Or offer free updates for a year or two or 3 after purchase of a map product. 2. Easier management of map sets. Allow removing and unlocking a map set so it can be installed on another unit. Make the unlock/authorization process easier. 3. Make it easier/cheaper to use your maps on another GPS unit. Why does the 2nd license cost 60+% of the full cost? What would you like to see in the maps you use?
  15. Just because Garmin says one may not modify the software, doesn't mean that one can not. . .
  16. Search this forum for 'free topo maps' or something like that - there's a way to roll your own from USGS data. It's kind of time consuming, but it's do-able. You'll probably have to limit the area you map, since you're limited to 24MB of maps. Also, there's a "free topo" project under way, just look through the past 2-3 days posts and I'm sure you'll come across it. Texas hasn't been done yet... edit - here's that thread - it came up right under yours
  17. You might also look at Easy GPS - it's a free program that works with .LOC and .GPX files, too. www.easygps.com
  18. Are you wanting to take data saved on a GPS (as waypoints or tracks, for example) and export it to a database-readable file? Or are you wanting to capture lat-long from the GPS in real-time? Your original question made me think one thing, but your reply to the other post has me thinking something else...
  19. I played around with a US Globalsat bluetooth model, but I think it ran around $150. It had the SiRF III chipset, worked pretty well. My only issue was that I couldn't find any good (cheap) Palm software that would work with it.
  20. Used copy of MetroGuide from eBay (or elsewhere) + free MetroWizzz (search for it) = routable Garmin maps for less $$$.
  21. If you're OK paying full retail, and only have one GPSr with no plan to get another, then CN is OK. But if you're cheap (like me) and/or want to use the same map product on multiple GPSrs, then get a used copy of MetroGuide and MetroGold. You can find it used on eBay, Craigslist, the GPS Garage Sale here, and various other places online. DO NOT buy a used copy of City Navigator on DVD or CD, since you'll just have to pay Garmin for an unlock code, negating any savings.
  22. I know cranking out ~1 GB worth of MetroGuide data takes a while - 1-2 hrs? I can't remember exactly. Just be glad you sent it to the card, and didn't try it with the GPS attached. That takes even LONGER! You could always put different map sets on different SD cards. They'd each compile quicker than the giant set, but the total time would probably be more.
  23. I'd recommend against NewEgg for anything that doesn't carry their standard return policy. Many retailers have a no-return policy for GPS units, or charge a restocking fee. They're evil, but WalMart has good prices and you can buy it in person, and their GPS return policy is pretty good, too, from what I hear. PriceGrabber.com and PriceWatch.com have price searches and vendor ratings. ShopLocal.com will give you the brick-and-mortar store prices in your area, too.
  24. I can answer this one - YES. You can't add to an existing set, at least not with my 60 CSx. As for the speed of generating the maps, that seems awfully slow. Did you load the maps to your PC, or was it getting some from the optical drive? Is your card reader USB 1.1 or 2.0? As for your other questions, I don't know why that happened, but I would say "bravo" for making a backup before popping the card into the GPS!
  25. Welcome! Yup, the base map, though routable, isn't very detailed or accurate. If you have a cache that's in the middle of an Interstate Highway, you might get routed to it correctly. Maps on your GPS aren't necessary for Geocaching, if you're good with a paper map. You can input the coords into Google Maps and get a very good idea of where the cache is WRT surrounding roads, creeks, and other obstacles, and even get a reasonable route to the cache (sometimes). Once you're close, the pointer and distance readout are all you need. <unsolicited advice> Eventually you'll want to get maps. Lots of folks like City Navigator - it auto-routes on your CSx, and if you get it on CD/DVD you can plan routes on your computer and upload to your GPS. Its drawback is that the disc-based product (as opposed to the SD card product) is locked to one GPS unit. Forever. If you get a Nuvi for your car, or get another handheld, you have to pony up more cash to Garmin to use the maps on the new unit. The SD-based products can be used on any compatible unit, but don't work on your computer. If you get Metro Guide, it's not locked to the hardware, so you can install it on every Garmin you have, but it doesn't auto-route, and because it's not locked, you can buy a used one and still use it. But there's a free program called MetroWizzz that restores the routing database and turns it into "almost-City-Navigator." I say "almost" because some folks say the map and POI data isn't quite as up-to-date as CN. In urban Dallas/Fort Worth, I haven't noticed. </unsoclicited advice>
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