New Jersey TJ

Try navigating using the map page instead of the compass. I know a lot of people use the compass page, but I NEVER have for my 2300 some caches. As you get close, zoom in the display, ultimately all the way in. Watch your track and how it relates to the cache location. If the cache is particularly difficult and the tracks get cluttered, clear the track and start again.

Loading local caches is a good test. However, for the distant caches, you should be able to pan the map, zoom in and see those caches, even though they're not listed using the list caches function.

If you cache in areas where you have cell coverage, there are plenty of IOS and Android apps that will let you send your location.

It's not really called anything, it is a capability built into the Operating System. Try this, using Internet Explorer as the web browser: 1 - Go to your "Pocket Queries" section on Geocaching.com and select the "Pocket Queries Available for Download" tab. 2 - Click on the link for the PQ you want to copy to your GPS. A small box will pop up at the bottom of Internet Explorer, presenting the option to "Open", "Save" or "Cancel". 3 - Click on "Open". A Windows Explorer window will open, showing you one or two .gpx files. The file ending in ".gpx" contains the cache data. The file ending in "-wpts.gpx" contains additional waypoints such as parking areas, trail heads, etc. 4 - Press the "Windows" key (usually in between the "Ctrl" and "Alt" keys on the lower left of the keyboard) and the "E" key together. This will open a second Windows Exporer Window. In the second window, expand the tree in the left hand pane for your GPS and select the "GPX" folder under the "Garmin" folder. 5 - Resize and position the two open Windows Explorer windows so that you can see both. Go back to the first Windows Explorer window and highlight the two (if you have two) .gpx files and drag them over to the right pane of the other Windows Explorer. This will copy the PQ files to the proper folder on your GPS. That's it! If you are using a web browser other than Internet Explorer, the concept is the same, but the action you need to take after clicking on the PQ link on Geocaching.com may vary slightly from what I described here.

I don't understand what you mean by "Normally to find the next stage of a multi I just look for nearby waypoints with a similar code to the multi code and the last one or two characters of the code make it pretty clear which stage I am looking at." When you find a stage of a multi, you are given the coordinates of the next stage. You can either enter those coordinates as a new waypoint which you name, as Timpat suggested, or depending on your GPS, you may have a "Enter Next Stage" function. Either way, you are entering the next set of coordinates you are going to, so I'm not understanding your looking for other nearby waypoints.

You posted without searching . . . This is asked about once a week . . . http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=326205&view=findpost&p=5429898 See #4 If you have loaded caches individually, you'll have to delete them via your computer by removing the individual .gpx or .loc files. Look for them in \Garmin\gpx Load your caches as PQs. DO NOT load them one at a time. If you run the same PQ regularly with the options "I haven't found", "Is not on my ignore list", then you can just copy the new PQ replacing the old one. It will not show your found caches, disabled caches, or caches you have marked as "ignore".

Have you tried checking the accuracy against a benchmark? You cannot rely upon the accuracy of a cache. I'm not sure if the 5x series tracks Glonass, but if it does and you have Glonass tracking turn on, try turning it off. Some have reported increased accuracy with that setting turned off.

Try this: http://support.garmin.com/support/searchSupport/case.faces?caseId={9dfff880-1aa0-11dc-657f-000000000000} Or http://support.garmin.com/support/searchSupport/case.faces?caseId={c6b5ca80-6a30-11dd-59a9-000000000000} While looking around I found one Garmin FAQ that said you can install to two devices, and another that said you can only install to one. Now i'm not sure which is correct.

Did you select the map for display on the GPS? On an Oregon 6x it would be Setup, Map, Configure Maps. Garmin allows 2 devices per product, but you will need a separate unlock code for the 2nd device. When you say the maps are unlocked, did you mean unlocked with a new code, not the one you used for your Oregon?

If your PQ does in fact filter out inactive caches and you were looking for a cache you could not find online, it seems that the only explanation is that the cache was deactivated at some point between the PQ being generated and when you went to look for it online.

You need to specify active caches only in your PQs. In the "That" section, check "I haven't found", "are not on my ignore list" and "is enabled". Not sure about the old logs issue.

This has been asked many times, and the answer is always the same. The reason for the change lies in a major change in how caches are typically loaded. Years ago, caches were all loaded one at a time. This made it easy for GPS's to delete individual caches. But currently, a majority of cachers load caches via pocket queries (i.e. gpx files) that contain multiple caches. Because these are compound files, gps units don't presently have the technology to go inside of them and delete individual caches. I think that a lot of cachers today use gpx files with many caches inside of them. They typically don't worry about deleting caches. They simply load an update gpx file over the old one (which doesn't contain found caches), which effectively "deletes" the found caches. Presumably, you're going to connect your GPS to your computer to load new caches, so while you are in there, delete the ones you don't want. If you don't want found caches cluttering your display in the interim, set a filter to hide them.

This is just off the top of my head, but I'm thinking that after the track has been created, you could draw a map overlay containing arrows for the turns.

There is nothing special about the cable. If my memory serves me correctly, the 60CSx has a mini USB connector, so get a USB Type A (standard PC connector) to USB Mini cable. Like this: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dynex-3-mini-b-usb-cable/3182249.p?id=1218382959120&skuId=3182249&st=usb%20mini%20cable&cp=1&lp=1

I think by favorites you are referring to what Garmin calls waypoints, which are locations you save that you can navigate to. If you are at the location you want to save, click on "Mark Waypoint". You will get a screen where you can give it a name and icon and enter other information. If you are not at the location you want to save but know the Lat/Long, click on "Mark Waypoint" and then change the Lat/Long in the "Location" box. If you want to go to a location on the map, long press on the map. Then click on the box that opens at the top that shows the address or location. You can then either navigate to that location by clicking "Go" or create a waypoint by clicking on the flag. You will have to go into the "Waypoint Manager" to rename it. The "Waypoint Manager" is where you go to edit or delete waypoints. To navigate to a waypoint, select "Where To", "Waypoints".

I've asked exactly this question several times here over the past couple of years, and no one has answered it. I can create a shortcut that takes me to the Status screen, where I can lock the display, but that's not the same. What's the secret? --Larry It's possible. Here's how: 1 - Click Setup, Shortcuts, + Create Shortcut 2 - Give the shortcut a name like "Toggle Lock" and pick an icon. 3 - Click Setup, Screen Lock, Toggle Setting. Back your way out to the home screen. 4 - Click Setup, Main Menu and add the "Toggle Lock" shortcut to your home screen by clicking on a +, Shortcut, "Toggle Lock". Back your way out to the home screen. You can now click on the icon for your newly created shortcut to lock the screen, but you can't use it to unlock the screen because the screen touch is disabled. Unlock the screen by pressing on the power button and then the lock at the bottom. Configure the User key: 1 - Click Setup, System, Configure Keys, User Key (you could do this to the Power key as well) 2 - Click either Single Tap, Double Tap or Long depending on which action you want the "Toggle Lock" to be triggered by. I used a Single Tap for the User key. 3 - Click Menu Item, Shortcuts, "Toggle Lock" and back your way out to the home screen. You can now lock the screen be either using the icon on your home screen or by pressing the User key. You can also lock/unlock the screen using the User key.

How do you lock the screen? I don't remember seeing that, and wanting it for the same reason as you. You can lock the screen by pressing the power button and selecting the lock. But that is a two step process. Create a shortcut that will toggle the screen lock. You can put that on your home screen and use it to lock the screen. You can't use it to unlock the screen, though, since the screen is locked. Configure the user key to run the shortcut. Then you can lock the screen either with the shortcut on your home screen or with the user key. Also, you can then lock or unlock the screen with the user key.

I went from a 450 to a 650 and am happy with the upgrade. I like being able to charge without removing the batteries, which works great in the car. I haven't had any crashes. My only complaint is that the touch screen gets "touched" and changes screens when I put it in my pocket. I just turned down the sensitivity to see how that works. I've also started locking the screen too.

Is there a way to set up the User Key to simply lock the screen with one press? Currently, I have the User Key set to display the Status screen, where I can press the Lock icon, but that takes two presses. --Larry Not sure about configuring the User key to lock, but you can create a shortcut to lock the screen with one touch. I've been using the power key to unlock, which takes two touches. I'd be interested in the User key thing.

Success! I think the card was not installed correctly. It's quite fiddly to put the wee card into the slot, there is nothing to attach it, so you have to be very careful when putting the batteries back in I've now discovered when I load geocaches I am given a choice of putting them onto the Garmin, or onto the card; does it matter which I choose? Thanks for the help, Peedieduchess I would put them on the card (\Garmin\GPX). The reason for this is that some have experienced an issue relating to caches not displaying. (I think that's the issue . . I have never experienced it.) The fix is to pull the card and power up the GPS . . essentially powering it up without caches to load. Thereafter, you can power down, reinsert the card with the caches, and power back up to resolve the issue. If the caches are loaded to the internal storage, there is obviously no way to power the GPS up without caches while you are in the field.

Better yet, set up different profiles for Geocaching and other navigation. You can have your Geocaching profile display the Geocaching dashboard, and other profiles that display other routing tools at the top of the map.

Also . .I have a profile for going to a waypoint off-road with the appropriate map. When I hit one of those situations, I just switch from my geocaching profile to the other.

This is just a guess, but there is probably an attribute in the entry that makes it a geocache. I don't know of any way to manually (i.e. on the GPS) make a waypoint a cache. You could likely do it using your computer once that attribute is identified, but that's not what you're asking. At that point it would just be easier to download the cache as a cache.

Try reseating the card. Sometimes if the card is not seated in the slot properly, it prevents the GPS' USB functionality from working properly. This may be the case, as the GPS started working properly again after you removed the card.

Actually that's not always a good thing to do. <snip> Well, that's true if you're trying to establish ABSOLUTE accuracy. But in this case, the OP is trying to figure out why c:Geo thinks he's in the middle of the Atlantic. If Google Maps plots to the middle of the Atlantic, then there is an issue with what the GPS is passing. If Google Maps plots fairly accurately, then there is an issue with how c:Geo is interpreting the passed data. So basically, all the OP needs is the "close enough for Government work" standard.