jmundinger

The 60CX and 60 CSX are NOT the same units. The 60CX is a discontinued model and uses an older and less sensitive receiver.

It might not be as sophisticated as GSAK, but you can use MapSource - the program that came with your GPSr to edit the note. Download the cache to MapSource then open the properties for the waypoint. Edit the comment field in the waypoint properties window and resave the waypoint. Then send it to your GPSr. Be brief, use shorthand and use only the most important information because the size of the note field is limited, i.e. the GPSr might not accept all of the information that you typed into the comment field.

download and install this: http://www.gpsfiledepot.com/maps/view/19

Main Menu < Setup < System - from that page, use the menu button and then select "software version" from the drop-down menu.

No. But, as an alternative to using webupdater, you could go to the Garmin website and download the software directly and then run the software from your computer.

As others have suggested, my first thought was that your gps was set to a map datum other than wgs84. Here is something you might try. Download the cache to your computer and rename it - I'd suggest using MapSource, which should have come with your gps. Then, after also sending the cache to your gps, download it from your gps into MapSource. Then, compare the plot and the coordinates for each of the two points (they should be the same).

Why would you purchase a refurbished, discontinued model when, for the same price, you could have purchased a new Venture HC?

Menu > Find > Geocaches and, when you get to that page, press the "menu" button and select "find nearest"

Here is a place to get maps http://www.gpsfiledepot.com/ And, download the manual for the Legend C - it has the same functions as your gps and the manual for it was more complete. https://buy.garmin.com/shop/store/manual.js...167&pID=255

The gps is probably set to a different map datum than that used by the source for the cache coordinates.

If that unit requires a serial cable, I think you have an eTrex H (or, the original legend), not a eTrex legend H. The legend H uses a usb cable.

https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=814

Made specifically for the eTrex series:

I was one who advocated for the software 2.80/chipset 2.50 configuration with the Vista HCx. After a couple of the updates, I reverted to that configuration because I didn't like the way the newer versions worked - primarily issues related to multi-path and corresponding inaccuracies in track logs. However, I am now using 3.20/2.90 - which I think is the most current version and am very satisfied with it. You can revert to the earlier versions but, when you do, it reverts the unit to the factory default settings, except for the welcome page, and erases all the waypoints, tracks, etc., i.e. everything on the internal memory. Download all of the data that you want to keep to your computer so that you can upload it back to the gpsr. Connect the gpsr to the computer and double-click the program for the firmware version you want to use. To downgrade the chipset, you have to have both the rgn file and the updater - preferably both in the same folder. To run it, drag the updater over the rgn file and webupdater will launch and revert the chipset.

You got my interest. However, I suspect that UTM has even more issues than OSGB with respect to zone boundaries. I suspect that the same zone letter means the same latitude wherever you are in the World, but how do you deal with a change in numerical portion? For example, how do you calculate the distance between 30U 0632481, 5680051 and 31U 0385893, 5757484? Also how do you deal with the problem of the overlap that arises from projecting the curved ground to a flat mapping? For example, you could have two sets of coordinates, with one from 30U being further east than one in 31U even though zone 31 is east of zone 30! It all seems instinctively very messy to me! Geoff Geoff - the solution that I suggested would work within a zone but probably would not work if the waypoints in question were in different zones.

The distance between two waypoints is calculated using the great circle formula. 1. Distance = acos(sin(lat1)*sin(lat2)+cos(lat1)*cos(lat2)*cos(lon1-lon2)) where all lat and longs are expressed in radians 2. Angle between two waypoints = mod(atan2(sin(lon1-lon2)*cos(lat2),cos(lat1)*sin(lat2)-sin(lat1)*cos(lat2)*cos(lon1-lon2)), 2*pi) where all lat and longs are expressed in radians 3. A Nautical Mile is 1/60th of a degree or one minute of latitude. Converted to feet by multipling by 6076.11549 or at least that's what google says Alternatively, to could you could use UTM coordinates and calculate the distance using the Pythagorean Theorem.

A mechanical engineer ought to be able to think metric. The UTM system uses 1 km grid squares and, as previously noted, the coordinates define a square meter. And, while we are on the subject, note that you have the option of setting your gps to display direction in mils rather than degrees. There are 6,400 mils in a circle. And, an angle of 1 mil defines an arc of 1 meter at a thousand meters.

Barb - actually reading the manual, preferably for comprehension, would be a significant improvement over simply staring at it. Second, note that the manual that comes with the newer units is a little skimpy - but it still should be enough to get you started. The manual for the Legend C, a discontinued unit, is a lot more comprehensive. That older unit has the same functions as the unit that you bought. You can download a pdf file of that manual at: https://buy.garmin.com/shop/store/manual.js...167&pID=255 Here are a few thoughts that might help you get started: 1. You have to press and hold the power button to turn the unit off/on. It takes a little while for the unit to actually turn on and then a bit longer for it to find the satellites. The first time you use it, it might take a half an hour to get a good lock on the satellites - turn it on and place it level in a spot where it the unit has an unobstructed view of the sky and leave it for a few minutes. 2. Familiarize yourself with the buttons - that is the basic way you have to communicate with the unit. The functions of these are briefly described in the manual. As you look at the unit, there are two buttons on the right side - the lower one is the power button(off/on or, if held briefly, turns on the backlight), the upper is the "page" button. (more on that one in a minute). On the left hand side of the unit, there are three buttons - the top two zoom in and out, used for changing scale on the map page. The lowest button is the menu key or, if held, will select the find page. On the face of the unit is a joystick - it functions like a mouse to move up/down, right/left and enter to perform various functions on the pages. 3. Familiarize yourself with the pages - there are several. The pages are all of the functions. Use the page button to scroll through the "main" pages. (you can add/remove pages and change the sequence of pages on the list of main pages - don't do that until you get familiar with the unit and have a sense how you want to use it and, if you do edit that list DO NOT remove the Menu page from the list). One of the main pages is the menu page. That page displays all of the pages that are not on the list of main pages. Navigate through that page with the joystick and select each page. Within each page, again use the joy stick to access the features and functions available on that page and press the menu button to access additional functions on that page. 4. It's just a piece of electronic equipment. Don't be intimidated by it

UTM is also a lot easier to describe your location on a topo map than PLS.

I have a couple of Garmins in the eTrex series and both of mine can be set to display utm coordinates.

When I plug Z13 245590E, 4131613N, into your converter I get 37 17 46.6 lat, 107 52 12.596 lon. Is that what you get? Be sure that I've got the correct UTM numbers above. That's what I got, assuming WGS84 datum Degree, Minute, Second: Latitude: 37° 17' 46.693" N Longitude: 107° 52' 12.596" W or, Minute, Decimal: Latitude: 37°17.77822279541 Longitude: -107°52.209932700309 That plots out in the middle of the river, west of the Riverview School. If NAD27 data is assumed, I get a point about 600 ft to the north of that point, on the other side of the river.

I agree. Those are UTM coordinates. And, if I had to guess, the datum is NAD 27. I plotted the coordinates using USA Photomaps and the coordinates correspond to approximately 37 17.286 N 107 52.214. I'm pretty sure that USA Photomaps uses WGS 84, so those coordinates won't work for you. Besides, in USA Photomaps, the coordinates are in the middle of the Animas River. It got to Durango, but probably not to the cemetery that you are looking for.

I second this suggestion, and the difference in cost is about what you would have to pay to get the serial cable and usb adapter. For that additional cost, you also get MapSource and a base map (very simple), more functions and a unit that is a little easier to use.

It would be easier to cache with a gps unit that has a compass page (i.e. a unit designed for trail use) rather than a unit intended for use in a vehicle. However, I suspect that you can cache with that unit but you will have to change the settings from vehicle use to pedestrian use, assuming that unit has those options.

That unit comes with MapSource. It is a very basic map but it does include the capability of transferring data back and forth between your computer and the gps. You could also use a piece of free software to do the job - EasyGPS. Build the waypoint file in one of those programs and then transfer the data to your gps. If you are talking about waypoints for caches, you can download them directly to the gps or download them into either MapSource or EasyGPS and, if you wish, edit the note that will appear on the gps by editing the waypoint properties. Many folks here use GSAK to manage their waypoint files. Someone will probably post with information about how to use that.