TeamGuisinger
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Posts posted by TeamGuisinger
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We often make hats and shirts for FTF prizes in our caches. No they aren't homespun low budget items, we have an embroidery and imprinting business and are able to do many cool things. Although GeoCaching does not have it's own page yet, I did put some images on our site when I saw these posts.
CLICK HERE to see what we are currently doing. Place orders early for Christmas delivery!
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That's the game, the rules, the way it goes, if you dont like it, go play geopoker.
Ok, if you want to stick so hard to these rules, then you better trade when you do my caches, or we'll count those invalid finds.
The cache I mentioned was a 1/1 and took all of the effort to walk up to the tree and look at the base of it. I feel no need to destroy this creatures created web so I could meet an arbitrary requirement. Wind destroys webs every day, takes them minutes to rebuild. Arbitrary? You can call me a pansy or whatever you want - but the fact it was a black widow increased my chances of not moving it. They cant fly or shoot missles, grab a stick.
But if I drive four to six hours to my next cache to find the log wet and unusable - and I don't have a scrap of paper in my pocket cause gosh darnit I forgot the cache police were watching.... I'm logging it as a find.
Again, I say - if you're going to stick by the log requirement, you have to stick by the trade requirement, and until I find one of you saying you ALWAYS sign the log and you ALWAYS trade, your opinion that signing the log is a requirement is moot. In any other case, you are picking and choosing your rules, I'll pick and choose mine.
My rule - find the cache to log a find. If the cache is in a position that the owner obviously meant for "reaching" the cache to be the challenge (ie, up a rock wall or hanging in a tree or any of the other myriad of locations - I'm going to get my hands on it and open it) After that, it's all gravy. If I see the cache, but cannot reach it because the HIDE is such that it's out of my capabilities, then its a note.
We always trade, unless it's a micro, or it's full of McJunk. If the cache is gone, duh. If the log is wet, sign something and throw it in the cache. If you dont have paper and something to write with, you're not prepared. I cant think of a time when I went hunting or hiding that I didnt grab my pack with pens/pencils, notebook, baggies, and a couple micro containers(since they tend to get chewed on more often. we are usually prepared to do maintainence anytime we are caching. Not because it's a rule, but because it's common courtesy, and part of the game. Just like spending time going out and looking for a cache, and then what? Opp, found it, there it is, I can see it, back to the car. It's not only proof that you were there, but an original cornerstone of the game. Play the game how you want, I'll continue talking to the other cachers through logbooks. One page at a time.
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Have you been "Last to Find"? Do you think you may have unwittingly or accidentally played a role in the demise of the cache?
I was First, Last and Only To Find on this cache. One I'll never forget.
OK, so that Micro was archived last year. How are travel bugs still being logged into it as of last month? Is that a way to log all bugs that come into one of your own caches? Just stick them in an archived cache and back to the real one before anyone notices? Just wondered.
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It has been my experience that NiMH batteries simply do not last for 500 recharge cycles. The ones I have purchased have always failed to hold a significant charge after about 24 months being recharged once or twice a month. Of course, if you keep your GPS on for several hours a day, every day, rechargeable batteries would pay off.
Remember that rechargeable batteries have a high discharge rate, and will go dead over time 10 to 100 times faster than alkalines. If you keep a flashlight in your car or home for emergencies, spend the money for brand name alkalines, and save the rechargeable batteries for running the CD player or caching with your GPS.
Look at the statistic on NIMH vs Any other battery. THey are far superior in elecronics then any other type of battery. Now if you want ones to run your flashlight then okay you can see a non recharable battery die gradually while a rechargable will die off faster but this is NOT becasue they decharge faster just the opposite they discharge at a more consisitant rate and then drop off fast at the end.
cheers
Thats also why they dont show a full charge on displays.
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C'mon people. Okay, so you didn't want to move the spider. How you know that wasn't part of the challenge? I used to have a cache, hybrid actually, that was hard to find because folks were leary of putting their hands in holes where creepy things may lay in wait to grab them. It's not as if feeling around with your hand was the only alternative, a flashlight and a mirror was actually easier.
I'm sorry, I have to disagree. How could the person have placed the cache with the spider there and the web intact? Also, did the person just ask the spider to stay and watch the cache? Saying it's part of the challenge is stretching a bit far. Also, some people are deathly allergic to spiders and can go into anaphylactic shock within minutes of a spider bite and die if medical treatment is not rendered. If someone did intentionally place a cache like that, it is reckless on their part.
As for placing your cache in places that people might blindly stick their hands in, that could also be interpreted as somewhat reckless. You have to take into account the "lowest denominator" and plan accordingly. If someone stuck their hand in and was bitten by a snake, it's possible you could be sued for reckless endangerment if the injured cacher wanted to press things.
It's called GEOCACHING, ever heard of it?[/COLOR]
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BTW, poisonous spiders are poisonous. Nonpoisonous spiders aren't poisonous. A venom injection is required to cause an allergic reaction in a human so I guess we're all allergic to poisonous spiders, go figure. Most spiders dont have long enough fangs to penetrate human skin. Why dont you just say, "I'm afraid of spiders, and even though it's been scientifically proven that all humans eat __ spiders in their lifetime while sleeping, I am afraid of getting bit by one."
PS- Remember playing with daddy long legs as a kid? Those are one of the most poisonous spiders in North America, but their fangs aren't strong/long enough to bite a human.
I'm sorry, I just keep envisioning someone fighting their way to the end of a 5/5, and not finishing because of a spider sitting on a peanut butter jar.
LMAO
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Come ON! SPIDERS? Are you or are you not standing around 30-40,000 sticks that you could use to move a tiny spider, poisonous or not? I found one in S.C. with a black snake coiled up on top of the container. I flicked it in the head, it took off, I signed the log and left. Pretty difficult. Most caches in the woods involve sticking your hands where you cant see(at least around here) if you're that worried about it, throw some lambskin gloves in you pack. There is no reason for not signing a log except DNF. As for peanut butter jars.......DONT USE FOOD CONTAINERS. A jar of peanut butter costs about 3 bucks, a clean unused container from the dollar store is $.99. You paid 100+ dollars for a GPS, but cant go buy a new container for a cache? Food containers atract animals, I dont care how many times you washed it out, something that can smell 2000 times better than you will find it and chew a hole in it to find food, and people allergic to nuts will think they can get sick from touching it. I have a slight problem with people not logging DNF for my hides. It helps evaluate my work on the hide, instead I get to wait for someone to make a few trips over a couple weeks till they finally find it and log as a smiley. I like knowing someone is out there looking, I wouldn't mind sneaking out and lending a hand if someone has been there more than once. If you can SEE IT, and you can TOUCH IT, then you have to SIGN IT. That's the game, the rules, the way it goes, if you dont like it, go play geopoker.
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What happens if it isn't windy?
Wont last -muggles will take them.
The spot I was thinking of is on a hill, and I dont remember a time when the wind wasn't blowing at least a little. 10 or 15' off the ground should control the muggles if the 1000 acres of trees dont.
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am also a full-time RV'er (Thus my name). The problem that I have had is getting the reviewers to authorize one of my hides. Since I am rarely in an area for more than a few weeks. I have one virtual hide and one traditional that is located on my brother-in-laws property. I've attempted to hide other virtual caches (because of the maintenance problem) and have been refused because I don't live in the area. Is there a way to get some caches approved? I have some great ideas. I'm trying to do my part with seven Travel Bugs. What else can I do. Really want this hobby/sport to last .
You could try making contact in the regional forums with cachers in the area you wish to hide. Perhaps someone would agree to team up for a hide. You could do the hiding, they could help maintain it. Is that against the rules?
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K Mart has trail marking tacks for $.99 per box of 50. They also have rolls of reflective tape in the auto section for $1.99 a roll, and regular tacks for$.99 per 100. To make them unidirectional, use a chapstick lid painted black or brown, and stick the tack inside with the point poking through the top of the lid and into whatever you are attaching it to. For 3-d tacks just use the plastic tacks that look like a rook in chess. Roll a piece of the reflective tape around the tack like a tube, and viola. Thinking of making a night cache using windchimes as an offset, follow the chimes up the hill kinda thing. Whaddya think?
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What about this one, logged August 28? what a fun time we had doing this one..first time in the area..1st two were real challenges, wife found the first and I found the second..I called this a find even tho we have to come back for the last location, wife said no way was she walking that hill today(smile)i can't wait to get some more pictures...TFTC TEAM
I would feel bad about taking it from them since their obviously new to the sport and have under 20 finds, but no effort was made on the final stage, and it's been a couple months with no return visit to finish. They did log a DNF on another of mine the same day, but......
What should I do?
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What, nobody liked my poem? I guess I'll go to http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_detai...79-babe50e49264 and live with the worms.
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I agree, I have had great success in stating my interest in helping keep the cemetery clean before I ask about placement. In many counties, the older(not used for current burials) cemeteries are taken care of by the township they are in, and most of the time, those people want all the help they can get. Our family was even placed in charge of an old cemetery because no-one else wanted to mow the grass or pick up the trash. It's just like anywhere else, dont abuse/destroy anything, keep it clean, and you will still have people who think that their way of thinking is gospel. Personally, I'd like a benchmark on my headstone so many people will visit after I'm gone. LOL
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Drill or die grinder with masonry bit. Right angle grinder with diamond blade. Sandstone is the easiest to work with, but other types of stone can be worked also. The hard part is carrying a rock big enough back to the car. Basically, find the largest natural flat spot on the rock, thats now the bottom. Trace your container with a grease pencil or marker. Drill a hole with a masonry bit as deep as your container(measure your container, measure that length on your drill bit, put masking tape around the bit where the mark is so you know when to stop drilling) Now with the angle grinder, cut slots as deep as it will cut, from one corner to the next longways, continue this every 1/4 to 1/2 inch till you reach the other side(should look like rows of corn). Now stick a screwdriver in between the slots and with a slight prying motion, each slot will break out. Continue this untill you reach the desired depth. Use die grinder to clean up remaining peices or even to label the cache. I know that not everyone has tools, or may not know how to use them, but a die grinder you can pick up a walmart for like 10 bucks if you have a compressor. A Dremel tool will work, but is smaller than a die grinder so will take longer. A right angle grinder can be found most anywhere for 20 bucks and under. You gotta remember, you dont need top quality tools, it's all in the blades/bits. Good masonry bit, about 5 smackers. A good diamond blade for the angle grinder, about 20, maybe 30. BUT, those things will make ALOT of cuts/holes. Kinda like a one time purchase to make 20 rocks. Or use expanding foam(any hardware store, in a can, 5-8dollars)spray a big pile of it on a plastic bag. Once it expands(up to 6 times its original size) and dries, carve your own rock and hiding place in it. Make sure to carve the entire surface to get rid of the shiny skin that forms when it dries. It will be porous just like a real rock, and spray paint it, OR pick up a natural colored ceramic tile grout, mix, and spred it over your foam rock to create weight(recommended) and a realistic feel. Plus in nature, the grout will eventually develop mold/algae from its surroundings which will help it blend in more.
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Mc Junk, Mc Junk
When will it stop
This plastic junk fills
My cache to the top
Every movie released
For girls and for boys
Comes another invasion
Of the kids meal toys
They're taking us over
They're raiding our stashes
Please keep the Mc Junk $#!+
OUT OF MY CACHES!
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Mc Junk, Mc Junk
When will it stop
This plastic junk fills
My cache to the top
Every movie released
For girls and for boys
Comes another invasion
Of the kids meal toys
They're taking us over
They're raiding our stashes
Please keep the Mc Junk $#!+
OUT OF MY CACHES!
Poet that didn't know it.
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I've had a hard time finding any of the plastic spray paints in the right color, except black. Plastic containers are best for using tape or a handful of sticks , rocks, and leaves gathered from the immediate area and glued to the container. I recommend using Gorilla glue for anything geocache. It's waterproof, can be painted if needed, and is some of the strongest, most durable stuff out there. Also using natural hiding spots in which your container wont need any camo. Metal containers have turned out the best for me. Paint an ammo can with a light flat color (grey or beige), grab some branches from the trees around your area(this kinda goes into finding a spot before making the cache) and some local weeds also. After your light color is dry, lay a couple of the weeds and branches on one side of the can(dont try to fill up the space with one shot of color, it wont work). Give it a light coat of a light(not bright) green(BTW, all colors MUST be flat, not gloss), but just spray around the branches/weeds, dont fill it all in. Spray from about 12" from the surface so the paint wont be as concentrated, like a dusting of color. Move branches/weeds and repeat. Let this dry and repeat on other 3 sides. Now do the same with a mid green, but dont repeat your branches(overlap the leaves and branches, but dont place it in the exact same spot. Dry, repeat with regular brown. Dry, repeat with forest green. Now use black to darken any light areas that remain, and follow more defined branches to add shadows. Then you can use a beige or grey paint marker to label(orange works well too). I know this seems like a long process, but if you have the right conditions(warm dry weather, or warm dry well ventilated garage) and you use good paint(not the most expensive, but not the cheapest either)(Lowes and Home Depot have huge selections, Odd Lots usually has quite a bit also) you can do an ammo can in an hour or 2. Just remember, it's not supposed to look like it's painted, you can almost set these out in the open if you do them right. I have had one out for over a month in the open, in the middle of public hunting land, and the people looking for it said it blended great. Also, if you think of looking for a log to hollow out, dont use one thats been cut by a saw. I mean, how easy is it to find a piece of firewood lying in a woods that is protected from cutting? Find somewhere that is being logged and look for a log that was broken by a skidder or dozer so it looks more natural than a swacut one. You'd also be surprised how easy it is to hollow out a rock, or to make one for that matter using tile grout. Hope this helped.
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In the blue corner......
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November 11 by ~Snoopy~ (189 found)
8:10 pm
This one goes on my "one of the best" list! Half of the adventure was just getting to the parking lot! Nearly none of the roads have signage around here and we took a road we thought was Township 305 -- who knows? It took us round and round on a one-lane gravel road. Somehow we ended up at the cache area (we didn't think to follow our GPS's -- duh!) There were many campers in the area -- no horses to be seen -- and they probably wondered what the heck we were up to marching off into the woods in the dark. The refectors worked great(thanks for having the way out marked also!!). When we found the area, we then understood the skull cracker title. I was the fortunate one chosen to retrieve the cache. What fun we had in the woods that night! TNLN....forgot my caching bag in the car. Great Adventure.... Congratulations on a awesome cache!
It does make you feel like it was worth the effort. This is from our first nocturnal hide.
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QUOTE (TeamGuisinger @ Nov 14 2005, 08:39 AM)
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I think placing caches is great fun as is finding new caching close to home. There are 1400 caches within 100 miles of your zip code. You found 100 caches. Why are you having a problem? Am I missing something here?
Easy to say when you have 126 caches within 10 miles of your home, 332 within 20 miles and 756 with 30 miles. That extra 70 miles (140 both ways) to get to my 100 mile radius makes a huge difference in a gas and time budget.
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Am I missing something here?
You apparently missed the entire point of the post. I asked for suggestions on how to promote geo-caching to new people and encourage the members in my area to hide. You didn't have comments for either of those subjects? I would think living in such a populated area, you would have many suggestions instead just a short cutting comment.
I apopolgize if you felt my response to your original posting as offensive. You didn't just ask for advice. You judged people. Your original post was self-righteous, self-pitying and frankly insulting to many of your fellow cachers. You ought to re-read it.
You didn't just ask for advice. You judged people. Your original post was self-righteous, self-pitying and frankly insulting to many of your fellow cachers.Ummm, what's that saying about the pot and the kettle????? I feel judged!
You can insult me and my way of thinking all you want. In the grand scheme...big whoop! Everyone in the world thinks they're right. That includes me. That includes you.
I have already gotten what I wanted out of this post which was:
-suggestions on promoting to new cachers
-suggestions on encouraging current members to hide
-suggestions on how to deal with negative feedback from the 2 people mentioned
Thank you to everyone who took the time to read the post and actually put some thought in to your answers. You all have given me a new persepective on the subject(s). Even this Alan guy can't get me worked up now.
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Mrs. G. is editting this post because not all information given by Mr. G. is completely correct. He was too quick to jump to my defense, gotta love him. The CIAB was my baby and I don't think he ever got to read the instructions that were included with it.
There is a cache-in-a-bag in 2 of our caches. This is a fully stocked cache ready to be hidden. The instructions state that the cache has to be hidden within our home county. It's a pretty big county, I don't think that rule is too confining. It states that if you do not live in the county, you should probably trade for a different item and leave the CIAB. It states that any person who takes/hides the cache is from that point responsible for it. That's not to say we wouldn't help someone who needed help in maintaining any cache even if it weren't one of our CIAB's. (This past weekend we replaced a container, a log and restocked a cache for another member). In no way did we make it mandatory for anyone to take or place the cache. This is not all that uncommon of an idea. I have gotten message from several people who have done the same thing who say it has worked wonderfully.
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I think placing caches is great fun as is finding new caching close to home. There are 1400 caches within 100 miles of your zip code. You found 100 caches. Why are you having a problem? Am I missing something here?
Easy to say when you have 126 caches within 10 miles of your home, 332 within 20 miles and 756 with 30 miles. That extra 70 miles (140 both ways) to get to my 100 mile radius makes a huge difference in a gas and time budget.
You apparently missed the entire point of the post. I asked for suggestions on how to promote geo-caching to new people and encourage the members in my area to hide. You didn't have comments for either of those subjects? I would think living in such a populated area, you would have many suggestions instead just a short cutting comment.Am I missing something here? -
Hrm...how many caches was that? We may have to try the Perry County challenge this winter! Mr. BBD originally is from Frazeysburg...you're probably the only person here who knows where that is.
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We have 13 ourselves, but there are 5 more within 10 mi. of New Lexington. Yes, haven't been there for awhile, but I know where Frazeysburg is. I've got alot of ideas for places, and some new container prototypes. I'll definately be putting some new ones out soon, but I cant figure out what to do about footprints in the snow whenever it decides to grace us with its presence.
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I googled this thing under different names for 4 hours, and nothing. It's essentially a locking mechanical puzzlebox, you would think it would be easier to find on the net. Although, if you google that phrase, there are some really cool ones out there.
Geocaching T-shirts
in General geocaching topics
Posted
It comes in sweatshirts, tshirts and long sleeve tees of all colors. You can have the logo put where ever you want it.