Chief301

A couple of observations from someone who uses both the iPhone and a handheld GPS for caching: -If you're considering a handheld GPS expecting a dramatic difference in accuracy vs. the iPhone, don't. In most situations your iPhone will get you just as close as a handheld. 15-20 feet is considered within the margin of error for any GPS device. No device is going to put you right on top of the cache with pinpoint accuracy....it will just get you to the general area. You also have to consider that the coordinates provided in the cache description are only as good as the care taken by the hider. If his coordinates are 10 feet off (which is still pretty darn good), and your GPS gets you within 10 feet of those coordinates (again, pretty darn good), you can still be 20 feet or more from the actual cache. If battery life and durability of the device is a concern, then the handheld GPS wins hands down. But the difference in accuracy is not that noticeable. -In areas with spotty or no cellular reception, did you know that your iPhone GPS function does not require data to work? However, you will have had to save the cache info in the app before venturing out, since you won't be able to look them up without data. But if you have then saved in the app (along with the maps for that location), you can access them that way. -Whether using a stand-alone device or a smart phone, learn to use Pocket Queries if you haven't already. This is a useful feature available to you as a Premium member of Geocaching.com. With Pocket Queries you can download hundreds of caches at a time to either you phone app or your handheld GPS. Beats saving them one at a time. As far as which device to buy, I don't think you'd go wrong with either the Etrex 20 or 30. However, if you want an experience that's a little closer to what you're used to on the iPhone, you might consider a touch screen model. I have an older model Oregon, which I like, but I've played with one of the new Oregons and the touch screen interface is so much smoother, and better resolution.

Yes! I was about to go look for it, you beat me to it!

Congratulations and welcome to the nut house! It's sure nice to hear from someone who hunted and successfully found their first cache, as opposed to the poor frustrated newbies who come in here begging for help because "I don't know what I'm doing!"

The best way to avoid looking suspicious is to avoid looking like you're trying not to look suspicious, if that makes any sense. Constantly looking over your shoulder, glancing around furtively, ducking behind things etc. will only draw attention to you. I usually drive up and survey the scene to see how bad the muggle activity is....if it looks dicey I will often move on....nobody says you have to find then all. Some locations are only bad at certain times or on certain days.....some places that are muggle central on a weekday might be dead on the weekends and vice versa. You can always try again later at a better time. If the coast is clear I'll move in Another advantage of reconnoitering the scene is that once you get a little experience, you'll learn many of the common hiding techniques. A quick scan of the scene might reveal exactly where the cache must be, so you can swoop in and make the grab like a boss without even much of a search, before anyone even has a chance to notice you're there. It does get easier

CJ reminded me that I found a no-gasket huge fishing-tackle box once in a cave (placed in '05, found in '10). It was dry and packed fulla books! Looking at it now, everything seemed good until we notice pics showing the container no longer in the same spot. So yeah, as Chief said, in the right location... I also recently found a cache that was in an ordinary, cheap, non-gasketed fishing tackle box that has been in place for several years and was perfectly intact and dry inside. It was under the front porch of the gift shop of a plantation house not far from here and thus well protected from the weather. So like I said, with the right location...

I would also recommend a metal military surplus ammo can...they are the gold standard of cache containers. I've never come across any of the Plano style plastic cans in the wild either. That said, in the right location, somewhere fairly sheltered and not prone to flooding (where the can would be completely submerged for extended periods), it would probably do OK.

If I may offer an observation here....I read through some of your logs and they're just a word or two ("Nice cache", "Found it", that sort of thing). Speaking from the viewpoint of a cache owner, I (and many other CO's) truly appreciate a little more comment. What was the weather like today, who were you with, how hard it was to find the cache, etc. For this reason I generally can't get behind the idea of uploading a group of finds to the website (with the accompanying brief logs hastily thumbed out in the field). Personally I prefer to sit down at the computer at home (or even on my iPhone), recollect the day's adventures and at least compose a sentence or two detailing the find. Of course, you can do it however you want...."TFTC" is as valid a log as a full paragraph and a CO can't delete your log for brevity. But again, speaking as a CO, reading a little bit about the finder's experience is really the only "thanks" we get for the effort (sometimes a great deal of it) that went into creating the hide.

I prefer to keep my caches accessible to everyone, but I do have one that is PMO because the container is very unique and would be difficult to replace. I really want only experienced and dedicated cachers handling that one. Said cache is also a three-stage multi, so I'm fairly comfortable that neophyte Intro app users won't disturb it. If you don't want just anybody going after your cache, consider making it a multi or simple puzzle but still non-PMO. That will weed out the totally clueless Intro app users but still be accessible to the fairly serious but non-PM cachers who at least have put forth enough effort to learn how to input coordinates for additional stages.

I would get the paid app first. It will do everything you need and show you all the caches, except for the ones designated Premium Member Only. As already pointed out, this may be only a very small percentage of the available caches in your area (or it could be quite a lot...depends on the area. Usually not though) Cache along merrily for awhile with the pro app and meanwhile read up on the benefits of Premium membership. Eventually there will come a day when you'll be caching out in the boonies somewhere and realize you have no cell signal. You will no longer be able to search for nearby caches. You'll think, I wish there was a way to just save a whole boatload of caches in the app so that I can cache when I don't have a cell signal (because the GPS in your device will still work without a data signal, in case you didn't know). Then you'll discover the value of Pocket Queries, one of the primary benefits of Premium membership. There also Instant Notifications (to alert you as soon as a new cache is published in your area), Bookmark Lists (the ability to create personal lists of caches for whatever reason), and a few others. Start with the paid app. Learn about the features of PM. When it is time for you to upgrade, you'll know

I usually log mine from 30 or 40 miles away. Back home, on my computer.

A fake small soda bottle that accepts a standard soda bottle cap that screws on, I believe. Only saw one once, with heavy camo glued onto the bottle. It's not really a "fake" soda bottle, it is the actual soda bottle before they blow and mold it into its final shape. http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY

Your dog wears the tag and people Discover him. Somebody had one at the last event I attended.

I think maybe you have to put something in the summary field.

You're receiving more cache listings on your phone because now you're seeing Premium Member Only caches that you couldn't see before. I would definitely purchase the Pro App if I were you. Totally different experience.

I realize that the reviewers do have some leeway and can make certain exceptions where appropriate. However, I don't think this should have been allowed, even if it is on her property. It gives cachers (especially impressionable new cachers who aren't familiar with the guidelines) the misconception that it's OK to bury caches. It just sends the wrong message.

First, caches have to be 528 feet apart, not 500. It's .10 of a mile. And yes, the reviewer will be enforcing that last 28 feet. Second, what I do when I'm unsure about proximity to another cache (not usually a problem around here, though), is once I have obtained my coordinates I enter them in Google Earth (along with the coordinates of the existing cache) and use the measuring tool to check the distance. I know Google Earth's imagery can be off a little bit, but I'll usually make sure I have at least 550-600 feet to be on the safe side.

Having to pay an entrance fee at a not-for-profit location, like a park or museum, is usually OK. For-profit businesses are mostly forbidden

Depends a lot on where you are and how active and/or hard core the local cachers are. Around here it's common for a cache to go a couple of days before FTF. A week is not unheard of. So if you get out there anytime within 24 hours of publication you've still got a pretty good shot. Sounds like things are different in your neck of the woods.

I don't think there's any set "list" of caching tools. Every person's caching kit is a little different. Are you sure it wasn't more along the lines of "removed cache using tool....#9 (as in "9th find today")?

No....unfortunately no, we don't ALL use Geocaching.com. There are many, many new players out there who use the app exclusively and have NEVER visited the website. I'm not sure some of them even KNOW there's a website. Which means they've never read the guidelines, never visited the Forum, never viewed and of the helpful educational videos. So no, not everyone uses the website, often to the detriment of everyone else.

On the cache's page, where you log your finds, there are other options besides "Found It". "Needs Archive" is one of those options. Post a Needs Archive and explain in your log exactly what's wrong with the cache. The NA log will alert your local reviewer who will take care of it from there. So what guideline is the cache in violation of?

Believe us, you're not the first to be confused by this. It's been a hot button topic on the Forums here for a long time now.

One of the guys in our local caching group found one of these a few days ago.. It is NOT a bison tube..?

You don't pay $30 a year for the mobile app. You pay $10, one time purchase. The app is yours in perpetuity unless you change to another platform (iOS to Android, for example) then you would have to buy the Android version. If you get another iPhone later the app transfers to your new phone, no charge. The main advantage of the mobile app is that you don't have to do any prep work to go caching, like you do with a handheld. As long as you are in an area with decent cell signal, you can just look up caches live, on the fly as it were, wherever you are. You can also log your finds from the field as soon as you find them, no need to go back home and log on the computer. Plus, the app is a lot slicker interface, better graphics, better maps, satellite imagery etc. than a handheld GPS.

I'm normally a fan of Garmin handhelds, but in this case I think I would recommend the Magellan GC Explorist. Most new handhelds have paperless Geocaching features these days, but the GC Explorist was actually designed primarily for Geocaching. Should play nicely with the GC.com website, simple to operate and is reasonably priced. Mind you I've never actually used one, but they seem to have a decent reputation in the Geocaching community.