miles58

This will do what you want. http://cgi.ebay.com/Used-Lowrance-iway-100...1QQcmdZViewItem

I'd use Adams brand given a choice. Mycodex is just as effective but has a really irritating fragrance that is far more persistent than the pyrethrin. Given a choice, keep the cats away from the tick and don't put anything on them. I know of no problems with natural pyrethrin on cats, but synthetic pyrethrins (permethrin) can kill cats. Other than that, using the Mycodex preventively is about the least toxic way to get the job done.

I'd use Adams brand given a choice. Mycodex is just as effective but has a really irritating fragrance that is far more persistent than the pyrethrin. Given a choice, keep the cats away from the tick and don't put anything on them. I know of no problems with natural pyrethrin on cats, but synthetic pyrethrins (permethrin) can kill cats. Other than that, using the Mycodex preventively is about the least toxic way to get the job done.

Pyrethrin is not as warm and rosy as your post makes it sound. Yes, it's an effective insecticide, too, but for the record, pyrethrin can KILL cats, so it's not 'almost non toxic to mammals'. With regards to kids, you have two options...expose them to insecticides and repellents, all of which have potentially harmful side-effects (if they're effective, anyway, they have the potential for side-effects...but used as directed on the labeling, they should be fine), or expose them to ticks and lyme disease (among other tick-borne diseases), which can be a debilitating lifelong disease. Me, I'll expose them to insecticides. Permethrin is synthetic pyrethrin and it is dangerous to cats much more so than pyrethrin.

Do your own research before you expose kids to permethrin Go to a Veterinarian and ask for Mycodex. It's a straight pyrethrin product. Much safer, much more effective. You spray it on a tick and you have a dead tick instantly and it is almost non toxic to mammals. It will keep them off your clothes and it washes out immediately so you don't have residue to worry about with the kids. I know of nothing more toxic to insects and less toxic to people. The LD-50 is so high I think you could drink the whole bottle. The fragrance in it is more likely to do you harm than the pyrethrins.

You do not have "immunity" to poison ivy. You become sensitized to it as in classic allergic reaction, by exposure. The reaction of your body to the allergen is what causes the rash. Rubbing PI leaves on your arm, especially vigorous rubbing is much more likely to sensitize you than mere brushing as you walk past some or reach into some. Gentle brushing will cause much less exposure than deliberate rubbing. Your skin is designed to keep the bad stuff on the outside dead layer and not let it penetrate in. Anything that does get in will be recognized as foreign and your body will react and rid you of it. Period! That reaction may or may not begin the sensitization process, but after the first time, your body will retain a "memory" of the foreign protein(s) in the antigens it uses to lock onto it. The memory persistence is variable. Most things that are not "you" can be viewed as capable of causing a reaction. Some, like PI are potent allergens and many people suffer terribly from very slight exposure. You have to be a little unbalanced to deliberately expose your self intentionally. You cannot predict the reaction until you are sensitized, and then you cannot predict the severity until you've been through more than a few reactions.

Aw geeze now I'm in trouble!!! I have hidden caches in skulls before, and I have a couple more skulls mellowing at the moment. Am I gonna get blacklisted?

Go buy an external antenna with a five meter cable. beg borrow or steal some velcro cable ties. Velcro the external antenna onto a long stick and hoist it as high as you can while you take an averaged reading. Be sure to have a ground plane to use with the antenna even though it will still work without one. The external antenna alone will make a big difference. Add a ground plane and it gets better. Hoist it up fifteen feet and it makes the most difference. Do all three at the same time and you can get good numbers in almost any woods.

It always does that near Area 51

I currently have five Lowrances, one hunt, one H2O, one go, and two talking Judys (iWay 100m). For me it would be a no brainer. spend the time on ebay to get a 100m, and get full voice autorouting, full compatibility to the Hunt and the same antenna and capability for caching for maybe a lot less money. I paid $114 for the last talking Judy which of course comes with full maps for the whole country.

I have done this. I don't think I would try in the woods with an Etrex though. What I did was to locate two surveyed references (both 1/2 mile off and on the same line) and assume them to be accurate. From them I projected waypoints to the four corners of the property. After that I established the corners as references the projected waypoints again to all four corners to cross check the first series. I eventually had a projection and a two back checks for each corner. After I got all that done I found one corner of the property was surveyed and marked. It was within 6 feet of where I projected the corner from a mile and a quarter away. After that I found a surveyed fence line in the woods on the diagonal corner that my projections fell within two feet of That gave me the NW and SE corners of a 240 acre piece out in the woods so I had all four lines with better accuracy than I could keep to unless I brought in a transit. If you're careful and borrow a unit with a better antenna and you can locate surveyed references within a mile, you should be able to fix the corners within ten feet.

VELCRO.

So does it allow you to easily upload and download waypoints and routes now or doesn't it? If it does that is great news. I don't know about easy. Like I said it's not a USB connection, but it can do it. For hunting/backpacking with the number of routes the thing can store it seems a little foolish to worry about when you sure as bleep won't be toting the laptop out doing either. If you're going to save a route you will either use it to come back out, or to go there again. In either case you need the route in the unit. The whole point of the GO is to have a small light unit with double the battery live of it's nearest competition. It will get you where you want to go, tell you where you are in relation to any other known point, and get you back out. With better sensitivity than anything close in size and weight, and SIRF III even if the prices were comparable why would you not get those features which you need for hunting/backpacking when you have a car/caching unit? Especially at the price.

It has the same connections and uses the same cable as the IFinder and iFinder pro. It's not plug and play like on a USB, but it's not all that much trouble either. I have a number of units to choose from, and when I go hunting, to Go is the one that I take in my pocket. The battery life alone is reason enough, let alone that it's a SIRF III and is as good as any unit made under the trees. The only place the Go gives anything up to an H2O or any other full size Lowrance is the screen and maps, and that is a problem you have to live with if you want small. Frankly, even putting the base map on a screen that small actually makes the unit less useful rather than more.

Unless you're too lazy or too dumb to go looking for it you can buy both cig lighter cables and PC cables for the Go now if you want them.

This is a no brainer. iFinder -Go. 48 hour battery life. Small. Light. Waterproof. 16 channel + WAAS Sirf III. Durable. Cheap (<$75) new. You can get some of the above in different units, but nothing else can give you all of it.

Don't worry about the number of memory chips used. Uninstall and reinstall MC 6.3 and it starts counting again. Just reserialize your chips and stay within the 5 chip limit and you're OK. Sounds more like you aren't getting the contacts end of the card seated than a thickness problem. Between two Iway 100s, one Hunt, one H20 and one Pro, I have used at least half a dozen different chip brands without trouble.

Make maps that do not exceed 500 meg and the gigger chip will work fine. Make bigger maps and you'll be old people before they finish writing on the chip. The 28 db antenna will work fine. So will the 55. The prevalence of WiFi in your area means nothing to your gps. it won't interfere. The antennas are already very directional, they need to be. You need a ground plane for the antenna. A small piece of metal, ~ an inch bigger than the antenna on all sides will do fine. Putting the antenna inside a tuna can (top off) is perfect because it will cut multipathing down.

Not to be too technical about it , but wouldn't this be more properly describes as exchanging positions?

Check out Frisky Minnow travel bug!

If you're here for the fall colors, it's simple. Powderfinger Point, KoD Riverdance, Concrete Rainbow, Wind in the pines, Canoe Landing. That can be an all day tour if you take the time to enjoy the views.

You want to trade for a used iFinder Pro with power cable and baggie?

I have a unit with both. I use neither. Ever. I regularly go places that can mean a very long walk back if you go the wrong way. The compass is useless as the proverbial appendages on a squeegee handle because it cannot be trusted as much as even a cheap magnetic compass. I regularly check my GPS against the known elevation of surveyed benchmarks. The barometric altimiter is never as accurate as the GPS. For my money they're both candidates for the lamest add ons available.

Pay attention! I am only going to do this once and then Fizzy Magic will be along with a test afterwards Your GPSr will be accurate to a given spot by it's stated accuracy. For practical purposes this means 10 meters for a WAAS unit. Accuracy for this statement means the probability that the GPS is at the location it says it is. If you record a position's coordinates and attempt to return to that position by the numbers, with the same unit, this is a digital problem and your accuracy is generalized to 1.414 times (+-) the last digit (generally, .001 degrees) at the equator. This assumes no other errors are present or part of the problem. The amount of error decreases slightly as you move toward the poles because the longitude lines converge. If you try to repeat an approach to a waypoint set by the same unit you are no longer dealing with the digital limit, but rather an analog limit which can indeed be much more fine grained. If you have no multipathing and similar geometry to when the waypoint was set, accuracy can then easily be +- 12 inches. Accuracy defined for this example as being the consistent ability to return to the same marked position (repeatability). Remember that EPE is not accuracy. It does not purport to be an accuracy measurement. It is an estimate of the probability that the numbers match the actual position. This equations used to calculate EPE vary between device manufacturers, and between models. It does not mean that the cache is within 20 feet of the unit, but rather that the unit has a 95% probability that the unit is at the position indicated by the numbers on the screen. That also means that it has a 5% probability it is not, which introduces the possibility it may be very far away. Multipathing is the reflection of signals off of buildings, rock walls, metal and water. Most GPSr antennas are quite directional and must be pointed in the proper direction. Something on the order of 10:1 front to back, or more. If you understand this you can limit the effect of multipathing by tilting the unit appropriately. Multipathing can severely limit accuracy when present, no matter how you are defining accuracy. Lastly, you cannot compare the approach to a set waypoint between two units until you have set the same waypoint in the same manner in both units. In practice, this is not so simple as it seems. Even using averaging between two identical units is not sufficient to guarantee identical measurement.

Set the map screen up customized with the altitude, ground speed and EPE at the bottom. Set true north to top of screen. Set a waypoint at the coords you are hunting into the unit. You are at the arrow (triangle) in the center of the screen. Walk the arrow onto the cache (waypoint), zooming in until you get down to the .02 mile range. If your EPE is less than 30 feet you should be good, but watch for the ground speed to be jumpy or the altitude to jump more than 10 feet up and down. If the speed and altitude are stable, the EPE is not so important. It could be 300 feet and you can still be dead on the numbers. Lowrance uses a very conservative algorhytm to calculate EPE. If it's all stable then when the arrow shows you on top of the waypoint you are in all probability within ten feet of it if the hider's numbers were good. It's just that simple. No need for the go to pointer.