ADTCacheur

to find out if it does have wireless transfer: 1. go to the main menu 2. Find the icon labelled "share wirelessly" 3. if it's there you have wireless capabilities 4. to actually use the wireless: you select send and the file you want to send, and your friend selects receive. They will find each other and trade the data*. *they will only do so if your GPS is near the other GPS. You cannot do this with your friend over on another continent, or even in another house.

+1

[rant]If 'everyone' voted one way, you're likely the TTF! The problem: 3 people thought it was a nice hide and gave it ***** (or thumb up) but 20 people don't like LPCs or ***** difficulty or graveyard caches or something like that and gave it *(or thumb down). You're on the side of the 3 people, but you overlook it as a bad cache because others don't like that kind of find. At the same time, you see a cache with 4 1/2* and excitedly go off to find that nano in the parking meter. When you're out on vacation, a rating system won't be as useful as what we have now. If you don't like micros, don't hunt them, if you love night caches, hunt them. The locals may love their night caches, but you hate them or vice versa. You would be getting what the general population likes, not necessarily what you like, and changing that would require so much extra time and effort that could have been used to make multiple features we'd like instead of one feature 10% of us love, 15% of us hate, and the rest tolerate. Finally, I can easily see this scenario; some newb puts out a nice cache, but most of the people who hunt it don't like that kind of cache, or are elitists who rate it lower because the CO doesn't have 100 finds yet, and so the good cache gets a low rating. Now this newb either quits because (s)he feels like a failure, or goes out with a bang by swiping caches from people who gave him a bad rating. If you really want a rating system, the best way of doing it is to use a third party one, that way nobody gets hurt.[/rant]

I think what you need is an iphone + some fancy app (I'm afraid they don't exist) I've crossed out what the iPhone doesn't give from this list

Geocache friendly means you can put geocache information directly onto the gps (paperless feature). Otherwise you will have to print off the page and manually enter the coordinates. You wouldn't be getting paperless anyway unless you were a premium member.

for an Oregon at least: When you plug it (the GPS) in to the computer, you will have 2 files open. One of them will be the GPS. One of them will be the card. You must use mapsource for the first map you put on to the card, but can just copy&paste to the garmin folder in it afterwards. when loading your maps off of mapsource, select the other option (other than your GPS) when choosing where to put the file. if there is more than one other option then look. Say your gps is in F:. Your card will be in G:. Or you could just go the easy way and plug the card directly into your computer...

31. before you post a new thread, go to google. search: [whatever you were about to make a new thread about] site:forums.Groundspeak.com. You will never have to deal with people snapping at you for mentioning something you thought was some brilliant idea you came up with, but somebody comes up with it every month. 32. when you post to a topic, check the date of the last post. If it was last posted in 5 years ago, DO NOT POST 33. Caches are meant to be found and put back where they were. Do not trade this cache with your own sandwich container or steal the cache outright. 34. I know this is futile, but trade up or trade even with swag (those little toys in a geocache that are generally good when the cache is new and a couple of toys you'd get from a happy meal at the best after a few months...) 35. do NOT place food in caches, as this attracts wildlife. 36. do NOT post a "needs maintenance" log just because you can't find the cache, and assume it's missing based on that. 37. Travel bugs and geocoins are intended to be put back into a cache when you can. Follow their goal if they have one, and log them online so that people don't go looking for them when they aren't in a cache 38. Put the cache back where you found it or (somewhat) better. If you found the cache in some bushes by the sidewalk, do not move it a foot or so onto the sidewalk. If you found it in a tree, hide it back in the tree, not on the ground. or the other way around. If you find it on the ground and the cache description says it's a tree-climb, put it up in the tree. 39. Be subtle. If you shout out "I found it!!!!!" that draws attention to the geocache and will likely get it stolen. If you sneak around, people will think you look suspicious and watch you, which will also endanger the geocache. 40. I can't believe I have to say this, but read this and this and browse through the links here also, read this before hiding a cache, which you shouldn't do until you're no longer a newb anyway...

May I elaborate on this? (I won't actually wait for an answer and will go ahead anyway): When you post about an issue with your GPS, USE DETAIL!!! Nobody can help you with "I'm having trouble typing in coordinates" but if you say "When I type in coordinates the third last digit can't be higher than 5. I'm using WGS86 datum and hh*mm'ss.s positioning format" then people will tell you to switch to decimal minutes. I used this method and got an answer in about 5 minutes. Some people use the first method and it takes a couple of days because they're always unwilling to give out "personal data"

depends if its in a rock bed with 9999999999999999 other rocks. if google view shows lots of rocks it goes straight to ignore. Nope, I was thinking more of one large rock that's already there and already has a hole. Nobody will know that's where it is until they read the clue! And even then they'll only know it's hidden somewhere involving the rock. (mwahahahaha!)

more memory = smaller components = higher prices and you can buy a memory card for most GPSs if you wanted (and many of them go up to 32gb)(I'm assuming if you'd be willing to pay $1000 for a GPS that had this and a few other capabilities, you'd either currently have or be willing to spend $150+ for one of the GPSs that accept a memory card, then paying an extra $50-100 for a 32GB memory card). Bigger screen = no longer a handheld, big drain on battery, and most people are fine with the small screens. Most GPSs are already durable. Again with the phones... Let me tell you a little something. It's about something called supply and demand. With a phone you have a cellular network that you can get just about any data you want from, and they are owned by nearly every person. Thus they have games and music capabilities to accommodate different desires. It is a lot easier to have a GPS designed for automotive, and a GPS designed for hiking, etc. then it is to have one phone for people who like to play games, and one phone for people who E-mail on their phone because they generally overlap a lot more. It would be a bad idea to have a GPS that ran on a rechargeable battery pack, as when the battery dies, you can't just switch the battery pack... I use rechargeable AAs to overcome this problem. I don't understand the limits either. I agree with that part... Waypoints are treated differently because a gpx file needs a waypoint and a text file. a waypoint only need one file. 25 years ago memory was precious. You couldn't use more than 64KB on an entire computer, including the name, program, and variables. nowadays you can get something with 34080768KB (32GB) of memory that's about the size of your thumbnail... You can get away with wasting memory as much as you want, because there's so much of it! What about; adding memory or processing speed would cause you to need smaller and smaller components, meaning that the GPS would be more expensive to make, and the processing speed would drain the battery, meaning that it would take 2 seconds less to load the page (sometimes my unit doesn't even take that long anyway) but 2-3 hours less of battery life. Now ask yourself, is it really worth it?

speaking as the owner of an Oregon 450, I can tell you exactly how it works. 1. tap "mark waypoint" 2. if you're done, tap "save", otherwise tap "save and edit" 3. from the save and edit section, you can change the name, reposition to your current location, set to specific coordinates (if you're doing a multi, I would highly suggest you do this instead of navigating to coordinates. If you want to look at the cache you lose the coordinates) project waypoint (not sure what that does though) and a couple of other things. 4. press done when you finished editing. it will also draw your track, and you can set that to show/not show on the map. and it will do about 8000 things that you'll never use, and about 20 things you'll use but I won't, and so on.

It may be on your CD-ROM. Do you have the Trips & Waypoints CD? Mapsource is on that CD. If not: Download and install Garmin Training Center D & I Mapsource Now install your maps into Mapsource Your map will show on the pull down doalog, click them Use the map tool to select map segments Only the segment under the tab Maps will be sent to your GPS/SD card Use the send tool OK, that worked. Thanks.

actually, the unundead are anything but undead, therefore unundead would be anybody who's dead or alive, just not undead... I think I'll stop, I'm getting confused.

Especially if the cache is up in a tree. Some might even consider it a challenge. You want a real cache-pee challenge? how about a nano cache??

I only don't like micros because I'm still figuring out what to look for. anything bigger is easier to spot and near me nano means it is on something metal...

I'm not very good at subtlety, so I'll show you: http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=126378 http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=107342 http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=76293 This was just a 5 minute google of "rating system". If you have anything to add, please add it to an already existing thread instead of making a new one.

I'd heard of double-posting, but TRIPLE-POSTING? I doubt anybody will send you the files, but if you just say what GPS you have (eg mine is Garmin Oregon 450) then We'll be able to look it up and see if it supports paperless caching. The other option is to pay $10 for a tri-monthly membership, and then you can see for yourself.

Why would you do that? The cache is not hidden there. (well, except for that ISS thingie - and looking at it won't get you there). Next up: The Geostationary Blimp Cache! Possibly a topic for that thread about: what is the largest cache you've ever found... I think that a blimp would definitely qualify!

OK, how do I use Mapsource? Where do I download it? By the way: I did not place the files into the garmin folder, as the card is seperate...

Copy-and-paste from the file it's stored in on my computer to the external files of my card. It worked fine when the external file was my GPS... I've never actually used Mapsource, and don't even know or really care where to get it (I might care if it would make the maps work on my GPS, but I'd prefer not downloading programs just for one simple task

It probably won't hold quite enough. a gpx file is a waypoint AND cache info/hint/D/T/logs/cache size info...

I tried 2 different ways: 1: I plugged it into my computer, and loaded directly 2: I plugged my Oregon into my computer, and chose the second device that appeared when I did so. When I checked later by plugging in directly, the files were in fact in the card.

I have an Oregon 450. I loaded Ibycus topo maps onto my microSDHC card, but my GPS couldn't read them. To test and see if it was the maps or the card, I moved my other maps from my GPS to my card, and then they stopped working. I am assuming that the card is in properly, as I can upload data from my computer to it via my GPS. Can anybody tell me what my problem is?

Agrizoophobics Entomophobics Herpetophobics Ambulophobics Automysophobics Hygrophobics Microphobics Anatidaephobics Ah, Google help us... (The new deity of the internet)

I only part of hints I don't approve of are those people who aren't even 100' from GZ and already want to know what the hint is, what the D/T is, what size the cache is, what the description says about the container, and what previous finders posted in their logs. I annoy them by NOT looking until I've spent 15 minutes or so looking and can't find it, as then I usually start using the hint anyway. Humm, I don't see how knowing the D/T or Size is a hint/spoiler. It helps know what you`re looking for (eg. are you looking for a film canister up a tree, or a lock'n'lock in a bush) and it's mainly just annoying to not even look before you've resorted to trying to figure out absolutely everything about the cache... Sometimes I find the cache in less time than it takes to read through for anything that could remotely be considered a hint...