T13

I have a Blackberry and use the Trimble Geocaching Navigator application. This is a 'live' application, and when the GPS on the phone is working (or talking to the s/w...) it'll let me search for caches near me, and see most of the info you'd see on your computer screen, including coordinates, description, hints, and logs. I can also search by address, or GC code, if I need more info for something I'm looking for using my 60csx, which is decidedly not-paperless. I can 'log' a cache as found or not found and this will leave a timestamped link on my field notes, which makes it easy to create the logs once I return to the computer, in the proper order and dated. I use the 60csx as my primary device, loading caches with GPX files or one-by-one from the computer, as new ones come out or I know I'm going to a certain area. When travelling elsewhere I can look up what's nearby and either use the phone itself or transfer the info to the 60csx and use that. One benefit over the garmin is that when I've searched for caches, the screen will show a running update of distance from where I am, INCLUDING direction (as in N or SE) where the garmin will just give me a distance, and I've got to click into that cache to see where it is and how far away. I only wish that I could specify a preferred direction, or it'd calculate that while I'm moving....when on a road I really want to see what's ahead of me, not to the sides or behind... I tried a demo on the Blackstar app once but didn't figure it out. There's also a CacheSense app that I believe can run live as well. I don't need to store caches on the BB....if I have reception I can always do another search and specify location, cache type, number of caches, etc...and you can save those searches, although I can not figure out how to DELETE a saved search.

How would you display two or more points in Google maps? Having them marked A or B or something (or numbered, like if you search for a business and it gives you the nearest ones marked and with a list on the side)

GPSVisualizer (another web site, free tool) will do similar annotations onto Google Earth maps, and once you figure out the confusing interface, you can feed it a text file containing your data and draw multiple circles of given radii around multiple points, add annotations, etc. I've found it useful for trying to find GZ by excluding where it can't be due to other cache 528' exclusion zones...and it should also work for brute-force trilateration.

If you can measure the major and minor diameters (major is the whole ring, minor is the size of the material....the thickness) I may be able to help, I have a large bag of a few smaller sizes left over from a science experiment, and the material is rated for -60C to 200C, that should work ok....

I believe (from reading other posts) that my technique is unusual, but it works for me. I use three devices...a TomTom in the car, a Garmin 60csx, and a Blackberry. For the TomTom, I created a bunch of Pocket Queries online for a large radius around my home base, using the date fields to keep the files under the max # limits....combined all those in GSAK, and created a POI file for the TT, with customized icons for different cache types and modified names for the caches. This was all a bit of a pain so I have not done it recently, just still working off the 'static' database now on the TT. I have the icons displayed and verbal proximity warnings set on so that as I drive around I can see on the screen what's nearby, hear the prompts, or do a search for micros, regulars, or multis. I did not load unknowns, as those are not conducive to a quick impromptu search. If I've found a cache, I then delete the POI from the TT so it goes away entirely...I don't need to know what I already found, just what's still out there. For the 60csx, I create a pocket query (NOT including found-by-mes) around my target area, for as many as it'll hold, and load that in....still not often, but more frequently as it's easier to do. This is what I use in the field, and searching for Geocaches will show me the nearest....once 'found' the box opens and it's not in the Geocache list any more but in the Waypoint list. On the screen I see all the boxes, open or closed, and any breadcrumb trails from previous visits if still present. This is a static database, though....it does not know about new stuff unless I reload. If I'm going someplace new, or I know there's a new one added in my area, I can just plug the unit in and download individual caches as needed. My phone is a Blackberry with Geocache Navigator installed. It usually gets phone signal, and (less) usually gets a GPS signal. In a new/unknown area, or one where my database is old, I can use this to search for nearby caches and either use it to hunt or move the numbers to the 60csx by hand. This is great for long drives or visits, I can get instant access to GC.com's database. When the GPS isn't working (Verizon...who knows why?) I can search by address or use it to search by GC code to get detailed info on a cache I'm looking for (with the 60csx, not paperless) like recent finds, hints, or page text. I usually use the BB to file a found/not-found field note as well, so I have a log of what I found in what order....later on I use the online-access to field notes to create my actual logs, in sequence. When I solve puzzle caches at home, I'll often preload the answers into both the TT and the 60csx, using a different icon, so I can search for those once in the field. The new ability to correct the listed coords for a puzzle helps with this on the Garmin, at least. With some way to automate this I could/should update more often, but so far it works for me. My current TT database is about a year old and could use a refresh....it has no limit on POI numbers, but generating the limited PQ files is a bit of a pain. I can backup/flush/reload the Garmin with a single PQ much quicker....and probably should more often. I believe it's also possible to load unlimited POIs onto the Garmin and then use them to locate caches...but I haven't figured that out yet. The ideal solution would be a Garmin-grade GPSr with the internet access built it for complete, online paperless, as opposed to the occasional PQ loading....but I don't have the right hardware for that now, and what I have works pretty well.

If your GPSr does not have an electronic compass, its 'compass' display will be accurate with regard to direction of travel only when you're moving....you just hold it level in front of you and walk in the direction the arrow shows, turning if necessary until the arrow is pointing directly away from you. You'll notice that this arrow is usually shown in a compass circle, marked with NSEW and possibly numbers as well....as long as you're moving this will be aligned to actual directions. But if you stop and then spin around.....the compass and arrow will stay where they are relative to the screen, and no longer point toward the cache or align with North. Here's the fix....bring a simple magnetic compass. When you're stopped, check the magnetic compass, see where North is, and then rotate your GPSr until the N on its compass is also pointing in the same direction. Now your cache-pointing arrow is correct. I used to do this all the time with my simpler Etrex models....stop about 50' away from ground zero, let the GPSr settle, and then rotate it to match the mag compass and take a bearing....note what it's pointing at about 50' away. Then move to one side and repeat....pointing at the same thing? There's your ground zero. Without the mag compass you have to do this while moving....with an integrated electronic compass your GPSr just spins the display for you....try rotating slowly, and the screen should move to correct. In my opinion this is the most confusing thing about basic GPS, and a mistake almost all beginners make...the display makes it look like it knows where it's pointing (not just where you are). This could be fixed by having the display change (background color?) so that it's obvious whether you have a static/inaccurate compass or one still moving and therefore 'on'.... Before you just stick a small compass on the face of your unit, make sure it doesn't move due to metal or electronics in the GPSr.....keep them apart a foot or so, check readings, then bring them together.....does the compass needle move? You don't want it to...

For a small hole, suitable for a bison tube or something similar, you want a tool known as a 'rotary hammer'. While this looks like a big drill, it's not, and it's also not a hammer drill. Along with the tool you need a bit sized for your container. A common size is 3/4" diameter, used for drilling holes for splitting granite. A good tool and bit will do this hole about 3" deep in a few minutes, and surprisingly quietly. While all this will cost you many hundreds if new, you can rent such a rig for about $40 for a few hours if you really need such holes and can batch up a bunch to do all at once. Or, ask someone who owns one....serious contractors or landscapers, someone who works with stone like a stonemason or wall builder.

I have the Geocache Navigator app on my BB but it often fails to use the GPS onboard. It has other cache lookup modes, however....by GCcode, coords, address, and some others. I've used my GPSr to get my location and then entered that into the BB to find what was near me, and it does work. You'll still need a phone connection, but you can live without the GPS connection if you know your location in some manner or know what caches you're looking up. My biggest issue with the app is that it does not show all information regarding the cache....in particular whether it's active or archived....sometimes you can get useful info from reading the logs, but the overall status is not shown.

It takes time to get used to using a GPSr, and there are some techniques you can use. Sight from a distance! Consider if you're sitting directly on Ground Zero...normal variation of plus/minus 20 feet will have your arrow jumping all over, with every direction being AWAY from the cache. Instead, as you approach, and the unit says 50' away....sight a bearing, mark some mental landmark, a likely tree or something, and then walk away and do it again from another direction. Two lines 90 degrees apart would theoretically mark the location precisely, additional ones may help account for location jumping. This is similar to not using on direct approach anyway, but switching to 'think like a co' mode...where would you hide it? Often your sight lines will be something obvious or distinct that may turn out to be the hide anyway, at least in a good hide, not a needle-in-a-haystack type.

I have a Blackberry Bold 9650 and I have Geocache Navigator loaded. It wasn't easy to find what's supported, and I've since found info that says it isn't, but I tried the demo and that worked and sold me. Since then it seems to have trouble reading the onboard GPS, even though other GPS programs and google maps can usually read it just fine....and it worked during the demo. The best feature is the ability to directly access geocache.com to look for caches. If it would use the GPS I could just say find near me (and it has worked occasionally), but you can also do so by entering an address or a lat/long. I use this in parallel with my 60csx....I can find my location, enter that into the BB, find local caches and check rating, descriptions, hints and logs, and then transfer the info back onto the 60csx for actual hunting. After I can use the BB to create a field log of found/not found so I can use that as a prompting list while logging on line later. While cumbersome, this did work well on a trip last weekend. I didn't know my route ahead of time, so I couldn't create a PQ to preload on the GPSr, so when I found myself somewhere with time, I'd look up likely prospects (was going for quick P&Gs to maintain my one-a-day streak and to get new states, not looking for geocache hunt fun) check to see if it matched my criteria, and if so, enter it into the 60csx as well as the car unit for driving purposes....I could sometimes do this a state ahead for a particular town that looked promising, and have 3 prospects loaded up on all 3 (POI on the car unit, displayed on the map and navigable, GC on the handheld for hunting). After a find or not I could bring it up on the BB and log as found/notfound so I didn't need any paper. This would be much easier if the GN on the BB would use the built-in GPS, but so far customer support has not been helpful, nor has Verizon explained why it might not work. If I try use use geocaching.com on the BB browser I get some minimal interface that claims to let me look up stuff and login but it never seems to respond, so GN is all I've got.

I started with secondhand Etrex units, and am still going strong. My first was a Legend, then a yellow Etrex (no H), then a Venture Color. I've since acquired another yellow Etrex for use as a loaner and with groups. I envy you your H, as that signifies the better reception, especially under trees. None of mine have that, but still work just ok. Does yours have a 6-character waypoint name limit? The basic yellow Etrex does, and it won't take maps, and the screen is a little low-resolution...but for finding caches it works just fine. You can find a direct-to-USB cable on Ebay for less than the two separate ones, and the ability to upgrade the s/w and download larger cache quantities is nice....your money would be better spent on the Premium upgrade so you can get PQ lists of caches. If your initial car-GPSr lets you load POIs, then that works well as a locator to get you to caches, or tell you there's one nearby, then use the Etrex to find the GZ...that works really well for me, even though I haven't updated the cache lists on either device for a few months....there are already plenty in there to find. Oh, and all my GPSrs have been bought used from Craigslist, from people who upgraded or lost interest. Never more than half-price of new models, and often less.

I bought a cord on Ebay that fits the unusual jack on the Legend and has a USB on the other, no need for a 9-pin adapter. Came with a CD, everything works just fine, it was something like $20 with shipping.

Gee, my first GPS was also a Legend, but I only paid $40 used.....;-) I purchased a USB cable variant from someone on Ebay for $15, works fine with the s/w. With the cable you can update the firmware (a good idea, adds features), download individual caches from the web site, or transfer larger numbers from s/w like EasyGPS, which I use to process my pocket queries. You can also backup the contents of the GPS regularly, also a good idea. I've got only the basemap, haven't found a good deal on the better maps yet, and the memory is quite limited, assuming you have the original Legend and not a Legend H or something better. The basemap is still better than nothing, which is what you get with the base yellow Etrex. I've got one of those too, only paid $25 for that one, and it survived a total immersion and disassembly/reassembly repair. The Legend has better screen resolution and features than the yellow, both are equal at getting you to a certain spot, and both will lose signal quickly under the trees....to do better you need a "H" variant. Still watching for a bargain on one of those....

Since various topics on these forums were helpful in this repair, I thought I'd share my tale. My son and I were working as lock-tenders at the Lowell, MA Pawtucket Canal Lower Locks. This involves manipulating the large wooden gates and smaller metal wickets to control the flow of water into and out of large granite chambers built into the canal, in this case in order to lift inflatable rafts full of white-water rafters up at the end of their journey. It's not required, just lots of fun. The canal and chamber have been there since 1796 or so. The closest cache, just across the canal, is GC251FE, The Other River, and that's the reason for this tale... I've been caching for a few months, and just acquired a secondhand yellow Etrex for my son to use, and for use by Boy Scouts working toward the new Geocaching merit badge. My son was eager to mark our lock-tending with a cache, and wanted to find out how far the nearest one was...so brought it along for our lock-tending session, which involves scrambling around on the granite walls, pushing and pulling the wooden beams on the gates, and manipulating the keys (3' long steel wrenches) to open and close the water-flow-control wickets, while leaning over the water in the canal.....and he was carrying the Etrex in a belt holster, clipped to his waistband....and of course it fell into the water, just upstream of the Upper lock gate. He said that it floated briefly and then sank....and reasonably, he kept doing his job holding the key to keep the wicket open. This was while we were pre-filling the upper lock chamber with water, about 12' deep, which would then be let through the Middle gates into the lower lock chamber, and after the boats had passed, we'd fill the upper again, and eventually let it all out. So, about half an hour later, we had time to begin looking. The GPSr in the holster had passed through the wicket with the current (LOTS of water flow) and settled in the bottom of the upper chamber....we spotted it about 12' down, in the middle, in about 2' of water after all the fun was over. A bit of finagling with a pool-skimmer and ropes and we'd dragged it closer to the wall and lifted it up, without having to descend into the lock itself. Judging from the water visible behind the screen, the unit was about half full of water....some would shake out, but not much. At this point I started reading forum posts about repair...didn't find much about submerged units, but some about disassembly. The first thing we tried was putting the unit in a container full of dry rice. This didn't do much to get the water out from inside....it got past whatever 'waterproof' seal there was, but didn't want to flow back out. Second try involved pressure.....first try was one of those vacuum storage bags, but of course the bag shrinks around the unit, so there's not really low pressure inside the bag, just not much air. Not having a bell jar and air pump around, decided to make one....first tries with a glass cutter and wine bottles were not very successful, eventually settled on a canning jar with a hole in the metal lid, coupled with a wine-storage stopper and pump, which we use to remove the air from the opened wine bottle for extended short-time storage. This worked pretty well! The unit no longer looked like a snowglobe behind the window, but there was still water in there... So I took it apart, following instructions found here. The rubber grip peeled off with a blow-dryer heat assist, leaving tacky adhesive, but not the expected waterproofing tape, just the two plastic halves of the case. The case snapped apart easily, and careful blotting, more hot air, and a session in a warm oven left everything seeming pretty dry, so I carefully reassembled it....and it worked! Then to re-attach the grip....I replaced the missing seal tape with a band of vinyl electricians tape, carefully trimmed to width, lightly stretched, overlapped about an inch, and passing over all the side buttons. A test fit of the rubber grip over that seated pretty well, and there seemed to be enough adhesive left to hold it on, so for now I'm leaving like that....it's not critical for the 'waterproofing', just for comfort and the buttons, so I'll see how it holds up. If necessary I plan to try some of the Seam Grip used for repairing tents, and will apply a thin line under each edge of the grip, all around. If the rubber stays unperforated, that should improve the original, fairly non-existent waterproofing. (I admit that the specification says 1 meter for 30 minutes, not 30 minutes at 12' after being squirted through the lock wicket....) We'll have to see how long this holds up, and if there are any long-term corrosion difficulties. I'm keeping my fingers crosses, and my son will devise a lanyard as soon as possible, even when the GPSr is on his belt.....better yet, will keep it away from the canal! But, if possible, this repaired Etrex will be used to mark the coordinates for a new geocache, as close as possible to the site of its swim.... Oh, we tried calling Garmin....emailed first, got no reply, and a phone call, after a time on hold, got an offer of repair for only $60something dollars....for a unit I'd paid $25 for secondhand.

Isn't Oak a relatively heavy wood? I wonder how purple heart would hold up? I've always liked purple heart. It'll turn grey with exposure to water, is quite durable, but can be extremely splintery. Long, sharp, nasty splinters. Also has calcium deposits, tough on tools when working. Little embedded rocks. Heat it up with friction to bring out the deep purple color.