4x4van

Micros have their place; i.e. urban areas that won't support a full size container, but I hate micros in the woods. I cache with my kids, and we like to hike, and there should be a payoff at the end of that hike. My own feeling is that caches are hidden to be found, not to stump seekers. When I hide a cache, I hide it well enough to minimize the chances of it being found by muggles, but I want geocachers to find it. That's why I hid the dang thing!. Otherwise, what's the point? Aren't we supposed to be hiding a container with a logbook in it so that seekers can sign the logbook? If you make the hide so devious that many cannot find it, aren't you defeating the purpose of the game? Hiding something in the woods without giving out the coordinates at all would accomplish the same thing.

From the map screen, go to menu, map setup, then toggle to the right. You can then check or uncheck individual POI categories to either show them or not. Oops, sorry, like Mikeatnight, I thought you were talking about a Magellan. Never mind!

My son was 10 and my youngest daughter was 8 (oldest is 16, she's not into "hiking") when we started geocaching, and they love it. My son is almost 13 now, and has his own GPS. Both like the caches that require at least a bit of a hike. In fact, last Spetember, my son & I hiked to a virtual on top of Mt San Jacinto; nearly 12 miles total, up to almost 11,000ft elevation.

Simply set your GPS to display UTM coordinates, NAD27 Datum (for most topo maps). Topo maps generally have the UTM coordinate numbers shown along the sides of the map. And there are UTM rulers (for various map scales) available to make it easier/more accurate, but a steady hand/eye and plain straightedge is usually sufficient. Clicking on the topo map link from the cache page will give you a topo map with the cache site marked on it. And www.lostoutdoors.com has a really neat mapmaker section for plotting multiple locations on both topo and aerial photo maps.

I have those batteries (along with a 110vac/12vdc charger from the same company), and so far I am extremely happy with them. Not only do I use them in my GPS, but also in my Minolta Z2 camera, which is an extreme battery pig, and they are working very well. To each his own, but for only about $1 each, they are a great deal. I question a few things that the "tester" did (in the above link). It has always been my understanding that it not not good to leave batteries on a constant trickle charge for long periods of time, yet he admits that the batteries were always kept on a trickle charge when not in use. He also used a different (higher) resistance value for the second test one year later. He says he doesn't believe that it made a difference, but how can he be so sure (the first rule of scientific analysis is to eliminate variables)? Also, I can't seem to find where he "tested" any other brand of batteries, so are those results too far out of the ordinary as compared to others? Finally, even he admits that for the price, they are a good deal.

I got 24 AA (2300mah) NiMH batteries plus a charger (works on both 110vac & 12vdc) from www.batterysource.com for $50, including shipping. The charger charges a full set (4) of AAs or AAAs in about 2 hours. With 24 of them, I've always got enough charged to cover my needs.

I use an ST Pro, and previously used a Mag 315. While the "boomerang" effect is there, in my experience it is very minor, perhaps 3-5 seconds. I've never overshot a cache by more than 20 feet, and even then only if I was moving really fast. And that's with over 150 finds. I have a hard time believing anyone is overshooting a cache by 100-150 feet due to the boomerang effect, unless they are moving at least 30 mph, or they have a defective unit (or perhaps older firmware?) in some way. I'm typically on foot, not in my car, when I get that close to the cache, and at 43 years old I know I can't run at 30mph!!

On the position screen on Magellan, hitting the rocker switch right or left will allow you to see both sets of coordinates simultaneously. I have my primary set to DD*MM.MMM in WGS84, while I have my secondary set for UTM in NAD27 to match typical topo maps.

I own a Magellan and a Garmin. Favorite is Magellan.

I use an Outdoors Products Hydropack. I've had it for a couple years, and have had no problems with either the pack or the bladder or the valve. It has seen some pretty rough use, and has held up extremely well. Look around at your local sporting goods store for good deals on off-brand packs. There are many brands that are quite sufficient and of satisfactory quality, numerous designs as far as the number/size of pockets, and most (although not all) bladders are generally standard sizes, so they can easily be replaced with another brand if necessary. Even if they are not exactly the same size/shape, since they are flexible, they will usually fit anyway. The Camelbbacks are nice, but way overpriced, IMO. My Outdoors Products pack is very compact, yet has numerous pockets of various sizes and will hold much more gear than the small and even medium Camelbacks, yet cost only $25, on sale. I can't find even a "bladder-only" Camelback for double that price! For my 11 year old son, I bought a very small and cheap ($15) hydropack (some other off-brand). I knew at the time that his bladder was not going to last (rather stiff, inflexible plastic), so when it sprung an expected leak, I replaced it with an Outdoor Products replacement bladder (for $10). Going strong ever since. My point is that the bladder is probably the most important part as far as quality goes, since most packs themselves are of sufficient quality to handle most hikes. Any single brand is going to be limited as to styles/configurations. So check out all brands for a larger variety of styles and then replace the bladder if needed.

Since you're already familiar with the SporTrak, I might suggest the SporTrak Map. They run about $170, come with a cable and base map, and will accept detailed maps (streets, topo) as well.

Yup, most companies really do care about customer service, and both Magellan and Garmin have really good reputations for it. In fact, in many cases, Magellan usually throws in a few extras, like 12vdc cords or car mounts, when they return a repaired unit. So you might even come out better than you think. I've found that while you may occasionally have to press the issue, treating CS reps with respect will usually go along way towards a positive outcome. As they say, you can catch more flies with honey than you can with vinegar.

Sorry, not trying to call you a liar. However, I stand by the statement that you quoted me in that if you return a car part that is damaged in a crash, the warranty will not cover that part unless you convince them it wasn't damaged in a crash (a lie), or you have some special deal/relationship worked out with them. In the end, after badmouthing Magellan, they gave you a fair deal. While they didn't cover the damage caused by abuse (which I wouldn't expect them to), they did fix it for a reasonable price, including other more extensive damage (antenna, rubberization, etc) at no additional cost, and will warranty the repairs for a reasonable amount of time (which I figured they would) against failures. However, I also stand by my opinion that a freak hit that breaks the screen isn't a "failure" of the product, and that a company shouldn't be expected to cover that kind of damage. If they do cover it out of the goodness of their heart, great, but there's a difference between "defective" and "damaged", just as there is a difference between "warranty" and "insurance". Glad you're getting your unit back, and I'll keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't take another "hit" like that again.

Your analogy is not lost on me at all, I simply believe that it is wrong. A bumper on a car is not a "consumable" item, either, but if I rear end someone on the freeway, the car manufacturer certainly isn't going to replace that bumper. In the example of a spun wheel hub on your Subaru, I agree, it could be covered under warranty. If, however, you are in an accident and damage that same hub, the warranty won't cover that, nor should it. By your line of reasoning, if you buy a new car and then wrap it around a tree 2 weeks later, the manufacturer should replace that car for free . If that tie rod or control arm on your MR2 bends through no fault of yours, then it should be covered under warranty. If, on the other hand, you smack the track wall/freeway barrier at 60mph and bend that tie rod or control arm, should the manufacturer replace it for you? No, and I have a hard time believing they will(unless you lie to them and say you were just driving down the street and it failed . ) The parts are warrantied against failure under normal use, not abuse (and I'm sure that sending them the "twisted wreckage" would constitute "abuse".)I suggest that you actually read the fine print of the warranty supplied on those MR2 parts you refer to. No manufacturer can make an indestructible product. No matter how durable/tough, someone can and will abuse it and break it. If you believe that a manufacturer should replace a damaged (not defective; there's a difference) product regardless of the cause of that damage, then I feel sorry for any company that sells you something, and if Parts suppliers are replacing parts that you damage in a crash, I have to believe that you are lying to them about the cause of that damage or you have a special deal/relationship/sponsorship worked out with them. Again, my point is that your GPS unfortunately hit just right for the damage to occur. It happens, and to hold the manufacturer responsible for that is ridiculous. The same damage would have occurred to any other brand in the exact same circumstances; Magellan, Garmin, Lowrance, your PDA, cell phone, wrist watch, etc. And none of the manufacturers would replace the unit for free. Nor could they possibly guarentee that you won't damage it again! Finally, I'm sure that Magellan's repaired screen would carry some sort of warranty, but again, that warranty would not cover damage, only defects.

Well, two things. In your specific example, it would be covered under bumper-to-bumper warrenty. But there's also the concept of expected wear-and-tear. I should expect that a ruggedized product which is waterproof (well, sorta, their gasket design sucks) also has been tested to take reasonable impact. I expect it to be able to be dropped on a rock or pavement. Garmin and Lowrance certainly understand the concept of durability in a hostile environment. Wrong. No "bumper to bumper" new car warranty that I've ever heard of would ever cover dents caused by the driver running into something. That's called insurance. As far as "expected wear and tear"...all I'm saying is that even well-designed outdoor equipment can never be indestructible. I've never been disappointed with the durability of my ST Pro, nor the GPS315 that I had prior to this unit. Both have seen much heavy use and abuse, and have held up very well. They have, in fact, been dropped a number of times directly onto rocks with no damage other than minor sctratches. There have been a number of posts on this board referring to units (both Magellan and Garmin) surviving major impacts, such as falling from the roof of a car onto pavement while moving at highway speeds, etc. At the same time, I also realize that any one of those drops could have resulted in a broken screen if it had hit "just right" on the screen. I suspect that's what happened with your unit. No fault of Magellans, no fault of yours, just a "freak" unfortunate hit. I also would bet that any Garmin or Lowrance would suffer the exact same damage if it were dropped onto a rock and just happened to hit at exactly the right point/angle (yes I also own a Garmin, I have seen no difference in durability between the two brands). Finally, I have a hard time believing Garmin or Lowrance would replace/repair such a unit for free, either. So for you to badmouth Magellan for damage that you caused, and say that Garmin/Lowrance would take the blame, is not only unfair, but inaccurate, as well, IMO. Just my $.02

Make sure the Baud rate is set correctly, both on the GPS and on the software. Try the slowest settings first.

Their reply: There's no spellcheck here, there's no offer to pay for shipping, they seem unconcerned about my safety and about how their product performs. I try calling them and after getting busy busy busy over and over again I finally get through to a rep who says they won't pay for shipping and they can't just sell me a screen. He doesn't know how long it will take but guesses it will take about two weeks round trip. I told him that for $100 I need a warrenty and he said it would be warrentied against defects in the workmanship, but that they can't be held liable for the performance of the screen. In other words, if I drop it next week, it's another $100. I'm going to try calling them a second time and speaking with management. Yes, $100 is less then the price of a new GPS, but it's also awfully expensive to be paying yearly for repairs. I'm hell on equipment, and without a warrenty, it's not really worth my time. I expect the equipment to keep up with me, not to have to baby the thing. Hmmm...So you're dissatisfied with Magellan because they won't guarantee that you won't fall down and break it again? That's like denting the fender in your car and complaining that the manufacturer won't fix it for free, and to make matters worse, they won't even guarantee that you won't dent it again after they fix it this time! The fact that your PDA survived intact simply means that it didn't get subjected to the same blow that your GPS did, nothing more. I agree with lee rimer; you don't need a warranty, you need an insurance policy.

A quick check of online maps should have easily shown you which exit to take. Why would you drive past that exit when the next one was clearly 20 miles further down the road?! Is it reasonable for a cache hider to have to give turn-by-turn directions for every cacher, when they are all coming from a different starting point? No, it isn't. That's what street maps are for. If there are specific restrictions on parking, hours, fees, etc., then sure, that info should be mentioned on the cache page; otherwise, all the info wanted/needed can be acquired with just a bit of research and/or a couple of clicks of the mouse. There are at least 4-5 links right on the cache page that will show you the coordinate location on a multitude of map types, from topo and aerial photo to detailed street maps. Before I head out caching, I have already scoped out the area(s), which roads I'll need to take to get to them, and what kind of terrain I'm likely to find when I get there. It's never really created a problem, and has certainly never caused me to drive an unplanned 40 miles.

I just purchased a Minolta Dimage Z2. 10x optical/4x digital zoom, 4 megapixel, full auto and/or full manual, 800x600 video with sound, etc. So far, I'm extremely pleased with it. Found it online for only $300, shipped, plus there's a $50 rebate going on right now!

I was going to say something about that statement, but decided against it.

I, too, use a 12v cord while in the car. My ST Pro car mount has the cord attached to it, so that I can simply "click" the GPS into the mount and it automatically hooks up to the 12v. When I get to the parking place, "unclick" it from the mount and I'm on my way, now under battery power. I just purchased 24 AA NiMH (2300mah) batteries from Batteryspace for only $30, and added a charger that works off both house current or 12vdc for another $12. I bought them mainly for my new digital camera (Minolta Dimage Z2, a real battery pig!), but will also use them in my GPS. With 24 AA batteries, and the ability to charge both at home or on the road, I doubt I'll be buying batteries again for a long time!

Thot's utility works good, but you have to use it before you've made any changes to the .loc file. The easiest way I've found to merge/combine several EasyGPS files is to just open each one in EasyGPS, then click "window", then "tile". This will show all of the open .loc files at once. Simply highlight the waypoints in one of them and "drag" them to another. Finish by saving the file you dragged them to!

Alot of good information here. Just remember, the EPE is ESTIMATED POSITION ERROR. In other words, 18' EPE doesn't mean "within exactly 18'", it means I'm pretty sure you're within 18'. And the hider's unit "thought" it was within X' as well. Different units use different criteria to come up with that number; some are more "optimistic" than others. Kinda like a Chevy telling you that Chevys are better than Fords. Can you really believe the Chevy, or is it going to be a bit biased? When you get close, forget about trying to hit 0' and trust your "geo-sense". That "-sense" will improve the more you cache.

Then I guess you're willing to put your money where your mouth is and stop searching for caches placed by non-premium members, right? As well as deleting all of your finds on caches placed by non- premium members? After all, we're taking a free ride. So if that's the case and we don't contribute anything to the sport, then our caches should not be a part of your cache record/totals, right? Or am I missing something?

If it stops at the 15th waypoint each time, try this: Delete the 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th, and 17th waypoints from the unit (after recording them by hand on paper, of course). Then try your download again. Perhaps there is a corrupted waypoint that's causing it to hang, and deleting that one manually will allow the process to continue?