WeatherMaker
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Posts posted by WeatherMaker
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So here's my request. Simple and clean. I'd like a fist clenching a lightning bolt,
Like this ???
Sweet! Exactly what I was thinking. Thank you! Do you have it available as a vector file (Corel Draw, Adobe Illustrator, etc.)? That would make it easier for me to resize if needed.
I'm going to be on the road for a while, and will be relying on hotel internet access, so I may not be able to respond promptly to your replies.
Thanks again!
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GSAK supports a few different formats for the input to an arc filter (more added in 4.1)
Once you mentioned that it would take Street Atlas route files, I guessed that Topo's would work, too, since I figure they share the same engine and can easily interchange files. I had been looking to bring in a file via the 'File' menu, not within the filter window.
It works just fine - glad I asked instead of just taking the long road. Thanks again!
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Thanks, Clyde. Good idea on creating a new GPX file. I think that will work better.
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OK, 4.0.2 question here (waiting for an overtime check to register GSAK). Maybe this functionality is already here, but I can't find it.
Is it possible to have an existing waypoint in a database get flagged when the identical waypoint (by name or code) is loaded from a GPS? This would be similar to importing .GPX files - an option is to have matches flagged.
My goal is this: I'm using DeLorme's Topo USA 5 to define a route for an upcoming trip, but I can't find a way to export the route coordinates to use in a GSAK arc filter. So, I'm importing all the caches around certain cities to Topo, then using its search to narrow those down to x miles from the route (like many other users have done here). My thought then was to export those filtered caches back to the GPS, & from there to GSAK. If the imported caches would flag the existing caches, I could then do a proper export of cache info (hint, smart name, etc) to the GPS for actual usage.
A long winded question to a convoluted way of doing things - so I'm open to suggestions!
Thanks!
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New-pup question: What's the "r" in GPSr ?
The 'r' in 'GPSr' simply denotes a receiver. It's just being technical, since you can't really own a G(lobal) P(ositioning) S(ystem) yourself (as in, "My GPS does this..."). You can also call it a "GPS unit."
I prefer GPSr just cuz it's quicker to type, but everyone here knows what you mean no matter what you call it, so don't sweat it either way.
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fyi, ExpertGPS contains no address data. It's scanned images of the USGS's topographic maps and also satellite images.
Nor does it contain any maps or images at all, unless you've previously acquired and saved them.
As others have said, Street Atlas (or Topo USA) (and the competitors), despite their peculiarities, are very nice to have as they come with ALL the maps available - nothing left to download.
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When I d/l the waypoints from geocaching.com, I notice it doesnt put in the state.
Anyway, my real question is why doesnt my GSAK d/l what type of cache it is? All my d/ls are coming up as mystery caches...
Also, why do my waypoints that I d/l all have the same "placed date", which is also the date I d/l them?
Geocaching.com downloads can be of two formats: .LOC (which are free) and .GPX (which only Premium Members can get). .LOC files have very limited information in them, for which GSAK just fills in default info. The .GPX files will correct all your missing information questions.
I don't have GSAK running in front of me right now, so I'll let someone else answer the GPS interface question, but it's a pretty simple process as long as your GPS connects via a serial cable, not USB.
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And since when did this become a contest? If you don't feel confident in claiming a "found," don't log it that way. I'm just getting started in all this, but I look at it this way. Someone with more "founds" isn't automatically a "better" benchmark hound. They'll undoubtedly have more experience than I do, but you can only issue judgement on the quality of YOUR finds.
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The GPS system (of which WAAS is not a part, since it's run by the FAA) actually broadcasts on 2 frequencies. One, the "civilian," has always had the same accuracy rating. It had been selectively made worse by the Defense Department through the use of SA (Selective Availability). As described above, that technique hasn't been used since May of 2000.
The military has always used BOTH frequencies with their units. The data stream in the second frequency is what allows their units to be much more precise. Civilian units don't receive this frequency. Ironically, from what I've read in other posts here & elsewhere, many soldiers prefer to use civilian GPS units instead of their issued ones because they are so much more user friendly & smaller, and they don't necessarily need the extra accuracy.
There haven't been any technological advances making SA no longer necessary. Rather, it was a combination of economics, politics and a reality check. Clinton shut it off just prior to a US/European summit on the future of GPS, GLONASS and Galileo. Anyway, as you might imagine many nations aren't too fond of building systems dependent upon the good will of the US defense establishment and want to pursue their own systems. It was felt that in a effort to maintain American dominance, or at least a seat at the table, turning off SA would be a good political move. Economically, navigation has benefited enormously from SA being shut off, and this affects everyone. The reality check was partially that even within the US government, other agencies were actively working to get around the SA errors for the benefit of the civilian population (e.g. FAA's WAAS system being planned, as well as USCG's DGPS network). There are other security issues as well, but that's it in a nutshell.
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I would guess that there are 4 wires, since it's easier to make all the cables the same but just install different connectors on the non-GPS end. I've made my own cables for my Garmins (an older GPS 12 & my current 60c). Now, I didn't use a Garmin cable but homebrewed my own with a Pfranc connector and old mouse cord, but yours will undoubtedly be prettier. Get an ohm meter & double check the pin/wire combinations to what is shown in the manual.
Technically, you only need 3 wires since the data ground is shared with the power ground - you'd just have to splice into it. I hate Molex connectors, so I use Anderson Power Poles for all my power connections. In other words, my GPS cable has the round connector on one end, and serial connector on the other, with a pair of Power Poles spliced in a few inches back from the serial connector. That way I don't have to have the car cord hanging around if I don't need it. When it is needed, it just has the mating pair of Power Poles on it.
Upon re-reading your post, I guess your PC has a Molex-type connector on it for external power, so yes, you could run power right off it. I'd just make sure it's really within the voltage range of your GPS first.
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Happened to spot what appears to be the identical belt clip Garmin includes with the 60c(s) (and maybe others) at Wal-Mart today. Marketed by Belkin, they're in the electronics department with cell phone accessories for $5. There are actually 2 clips that I saw, one appearing to be identical, while the other is similar but more tear drop-shaped. I bought the 'similar' one and discovered that the screw-in stud included with the GPS doesn't completely latch. I'm pretty sure the clip can be modified slightly to work, though.
The clips do include adhesive studs to mount to the back of cell phones, but they won't work well on the GPS, and shouldn't be needed if you still have the original stud.
$5 for a clip and a $.99 carabiner key ring from Home Depot is a whole lot cheaper than Garmin's $20 for the same combination.
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DeLorme's Topo USA (currently at version 5, but v3 or 4 may work for this, too) will do a profile view of any line you make, or road, etc. It will also display a 3D view of an area, allowing you to rotate in space always looking at your chosen point, or view from your point outwards.
The map info isn't USGS; it's based on the USGS quads, as well as updated info from a variety of sources. So the maps it generates don't look quite like the standard USGS topo maps, if that's important to you. They have another product (3-D Topo Quads) that IS scanned-in USGS maps. The interface for 3-D Topo Quads is old, but the data itself it completely compatible with Topo USA, so you can use Topo's features with the USGS maps (this is how I do it).
Now, DeLorme's software has almost NO provision for managing waypoint or track data. You can add, move & remove anything on the map, but it doesn't generate a list of points to edit, etc. Other apps do this much better. Despite this, I'm a fan of DeLorme products and consider these apps to be a valuable part of my GPS toolkit. Of course, it doesn't help that I'm a map nut/nerd, either, and being able to generate my own maps really kicks you know what.
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I haven't bought a 60c(s) from overseas, so I'm only repeating comments that I've read from others. MOST U.S. dealers only stock the models with the 'Americas Recreational' basemap, not the 'Atlantic Recreational' basemap that is standard on European models. If you're going to use a different map program with the unit anyway, it's not a big deal. But, just something to keep in mind if you wanted to use the standard basemap.
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Has anyone discovered a good windshield mount for the 60cs? I must change vehicles regularly and so I need a temporary mount. I have the bean bag and am not happy with that.
The RAM mount has gotten several good comments on this board. I don't have one, but will probably be ordering one soon. This link is for a 3.25" suction cup with aluminum arm; links on the right have plastic arms or 4" suction mounts.
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I've been following this thread for a long time, and thinking how creative all these designs are. I thought I didn't need to ask for help, because I've got a logo saved elsewhere that I'll use.
Well........that file has been lost to the bit bucket sometime in the last 3 years.
So here's my request. Simple and clean. I'd like a fist clenching a lightning bolt, like it's being thrown, or wielded above the holder's head. Don't need much for color since it's just 2 items, but it would be nice to have the bolt bright yellow or gold (but I'm open to suggestions).
Thanks (if anyone has the time!)
WxMaker
(Since others have asked: wx is a ham radio abbreviation/slang for 'weather'. I build & maintain weather stations for NOAA. Hence, 'Weather Maker.' Get it?
I'm so creative. 
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I use them in my GPSMAP 60CS when in places where I would need my GPSr to float if needed.
FWIW, I just float-tested my 60c with 2 Energizer 2300 mAh NiMH, with the GPSstore "sharkskin" case. It floated very nicely, thank you very much. It also floats while in my Pelican 1040 Micro Case, but that's the case's bouyancy at work.
So, no need to use lithiums if floating is the only concern. I use lithiums in an ultra-small ham radio transceiver I take on trips, but, as mentioned earlier, that's in a higher current drawing scenario. Other than real cold weather where the GPSr has to be out for extended periods, I doubt I'll use them in my 60c. NiMH are much more economical.
FWIW part II, I bought 12 Energizer Lithiums at Sam's Club this summer for around $18.
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So, it sounds as if I did it right then, using the 6 digit number on the coin itself. Cool. Thanks!
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I retrieved my first GeoCoin today, and logged it under the serial # stamped on it. However, the travelbug page for it says to reference it by a TBAxxx number? Which do I enter on the logging page?
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yes, the problem is the GPX file. It has data elements that the "home spun" XML parser does not recognise. I have not seen this before, but will see If I can allow for this format in a future release.
Thanks for the info, Clyde. I did notice by reading the GPX file in Notepad that it seems to have been generated by an older version of EasyGPS (I think it was generated in 2002).
Again, thanks.
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Newbie user question here. When I try to import this GPX file, I get a message stating that 15 waypoints were processed, but 0 added, and sure enough, I've got a blank screen (when using a new database). Am I doing something wrong, or is the file? No filters are selected.
http://www.cs.utk.edu/~dunigan/hrcaches/hrcaches.gpx
Obviously, it's from this page: http://www.cs.utk.edu/~dunigan/hrcaches/
So far all I've tried importing is .loc files from here - this is the first .gpx.
Thanks!
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I seem to recall that same thing when looking into the iFinder & Brunton models a month or two ago - normal computer connection for waypoint, etc., transfer isn't supported. It can only go by the card. And, yes, a passive antenna is required.
This review http://gpsinformation.net/ifinder/ifinderrev.htm mentions this points but otherwise speaks highly of the unit.
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Fuses are there more to protect your electrical system from a short in your device than to protect your device from a problem with your electrical system.
That being said, a 12 VDC car can handle 2 amps with no problem. If you have a short in your 60CS it will blow a 2 amp as quick as a 1/2 amp.
In other words, I wouldn't worry too much about using a 2 amp fuse.
All very true. Even more strictly speaking, fuses are to protect the wiring, not the device. But that's not what people worry about
Anyway, my thinking is that (1) a 2 amp fuse is better than none, and (2) if you gotta buy a fuse, might as well get a smaller one.At least you're thinking ahead.
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I don't have any brackets to verify with, but no, I don't think it will work. It looks like the brackets snap onto the case of the 60c pretty snugly (maybe even in an indent on the bottom?), and this case completely covers them up. Like I said though, I don't have any brackets or mount to verify with.
I guess it would be possible to remedy that with a bit of velcro on the back of the case, though.
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If you do get so lucky as to become entranced with the beauty of code and QRP, you'll immediately realize that 5 wpm really makes communication almost impossible (only necesary in extremely bad conditions). Even 10 wpm is easy once you get going, and then you can actually start to chat.
If you do pursue code, whatever you do, DO NOT EVER LOOK AT PRINTED "CODE"! As in a drawn dash & dot. It'll corrupt you faster than Hugh Heffner. Code hasn't been a printed language since shortly after Morse invented it, and it will hamper you greatly if you try to visualize it. Also, whether you use a Farnsworth, Koch or what/whomever's method, listen to the characters at a 15 or 20, even 25 wpm rate, just have longer spacing between characters to bring the effective speed down to your learning level. That way, you'll learn the actual sound of the character, and not start counting the dits & dahs. The characters will still sound identical as you increase your speed, just the spacing becomes shorter.
If I had known these 2 tricks when I learned the code 20 years ago, I'd be much better off now. Due to lack of radio time, I tend to hover around 15 wpm, but did get my Extra in 1999 when the speed was still 20 wpm.
Best of luck, and 73
Mike, KW1ND
I'm so creative. 
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Anyway, my thinking is that (1) a 2 amp fuse is better than none, and (2) if you gotta buy a fuse, might as well get a smaller one.
SA ?
in GPS technology and devices
Posted
If that's the model I saw when googling, how are you viewing your location? The model I saw didn't have a screen, so are you using a laptop or pda app? While it does seem strange that the unit can't be adjusted to update its position at low speeds, I'm guessing they've aimed it squarely at the automotive market.
Sorry I couldn't offer any advice.