kunarion

Yes. And it may be tricky to type the coordinates even if it's the correct format. The spacing, decimal places, all of it means something. And formats may look similar. The coordinates are shown in the format that is used by the online form on Geocaching.com website for placing a cache. Also, "10 meters" is not unheard of as a position error, especially if the GPS was not allowed time to settle down. Unless the OP is finding all caches "10 meters" or more from the hide spot, maybe there's a format conversion issue, or a manual entry issue. The Official Geocaching App is not even designed for placing a cache. That's a little more involved. The OP could consider attending a Geocaching 101 Event for some pointers.

I've DNF'd caches where, upon my doing that, the CHS kicks in and it gets archived. Yet I literally said in my log that I'm terrible at finding caches, and it's simply that I didn't find it. Now there's that familiar There May Be A Problem With This Cache thing, and without an active CO, it's archived in a few weeks. Wow, I didn't expect the fact that I didn't find it to mean anything other than I didn't find it. However, it's evident that the Cache Owner is absent, no logs of any type have occurred in years, and I can believe the cache is gone. It may well be. But how did the CHS suspect this? Is it psychic? Does it have ESPN? However, a bunch of local CHS'd caches somehow become adopted to new Owners, so the caches can carry on. Historical, cool, Charter Member Cache Owner, now owned by a new guy who won't maintain it. But the caches that do get archived... sure there may not be another one placed right there, but... it was only a matter of time...

You have been hunting caches, and the coordinates are showing up on the cache page. Where have those caches been in relation to the coordinates? Do they always seem too far off, for example? You will almost never end up at "0", but are you guided reasonably close, so that the description and hint help you find it? Keep hunting caches, and get a feel for where the cache is, compared to the coordinates. Hunt caches where you've entered coordinates yourself (such as solutions to puzzle caches). You'll get a better idea about what the coordinates mean, and how to present them on your own cache page. I mark many waypoints of my selected cache spot using my Garmin GPS, and select the consistently closest waypoint. There are Apps and formulas to "average" waypoints, but I've never had trouble using the closest one. You may notice that the coordinates wander around, and tend to settle on a pretty reliable spot. Try some ideas and see how they work for you. One thing I do to test my coords is, I go back several times and try to "find" my spot again, from several directions. To see if I'm consistently close. If I end up in basically the same place every time, I'm confident that my coordinates are OK. If you see cache logs that say your cache is "a little off", believe them. Don't be the Cache Owner where everyone says, "yeah, the coordinates are always wrong". And a great hint can help a lot.

Have you compared the data signal strength with the map tile problem? I get no map tiles when I lose the data signal, and I know when it's happening. Also, any other App that requires Internet is then pretty much dead. It's not really an App thing, if you can't get maps to load. And if it was a compatibility problem with App and S21, there would be many Forum posts here about that. So the source of the problem must be something else. But it's possible that a 3rd party App would be better suited to the way you cache. Geooh Go has a "Nearby Caches" feature, that may be right up your alley. But I can't tell for sure. I don't really have much access to test Apps on your phone. My S22 has some serious compass issues when using the Geocaching Apps' map, so if I'm driving, I'm following Waze guidance to one cache or waypoint, which is often a parking spot where I can walk to a selection of caches. But the map tiles haven't been a problem for me in the Official App (except during no signal while driving). That's why I think it may be good to try another App to see what happens.

It would be good if The App offered to shrink the selected files, like what happens when you send an email attachment. I don't know if I'd use it all the time, because I crop and adjust my pictures to death, then size them myself. But maybe once in a while...

It already is for everyone. Be sure to show your friend how to use the Geocaching web site, because only very easy caches are displayed for free on The Official App. Beware that persons who don't know that the caches are in view on the web site, also likely will be frustrated by caches that are not very easy.

My map fails to load new tiles when I'm out of the data reception area. Such as downtown Peachtree City, or pretty much everywhere. Straight Talk Wireless is the worst! Yes, I know there are other phone companies. But I try to resist driving while watching for cache icons. Sure, a passenger might try it. But just seeing an icon on the map doesn't mean it's a viable cache. It may have been soaking wet and broken for years. If it's a park-n-grab, it likely is that bad. And it sure doesn't mean it's not out of your way. I've tried similar seat-of-the-pants caching where the icon is apparently right here, yet the approach is via the other side of town. Not to talk you out of trying it, though.

My Interweb is so sloow, uploading huge unprocessed camera files is out of the question. And yes, I can upgrade to a faster speed. Or I can be patient and outlast the Internet Provider, until they fix my connection. Pretty sure they're "encouraging me" to upgrade. My point is, small files are good. A few years ago, the Geocaching.com site was discovered by users to be re-sizing and compressing images that were above a threshold, if they were much larger than 1024x768. I don't like my photos to become "compressed" after upload. Ever since then, I batch run all my image files through "Fotosizer" at 800x600, which turns a 5MB camera file into a 0.1MB file. That way, I don't press my luck, and won't discover later that I need to fix a bunch of previously uploaded photos again. Maybe my photos will remain under any future arbitrary compression threshold. But batch processing requires me to be at my PC, which in turn means almost no uploads to logs in the field.

Yes, the Internet can be used in various ways. The question I was addressing was about surprise changes to the site requiring changes to one's routine.

There are wrench caches that became archived (or today are soon to be) that I know are in place and seem fine to me. Yeah, some dried out just fine, maybe they had merely been once opened in a rainstorm. It's at that point that I kind of wish the Cache Owner was active. The situation would be better that way. I never post NM if I haven't found at least evidence of parts of the cache. I do describe what the problem is, even if my description is in a Found It log without any NM. I'm one of the few cachers around here who will wait and dry a log sheet enough to sign it, rather than "didn't sign it because it's soaking wet, so gimme the Smilie". And I do NA even less frequently, for a host of reasons.

Do you mean that the position icon moves off screen, and you want to know how to have it remain centered while the map moves? Or that the map is moving, but not loading new map tiles? I have a Galaxy S22+, and not only do map tiles not load at times, other issues make The Official App no good for driving and watching for caches. You might also try Geeoh Go. But I hardly ever do the map and drive thing. It's a distraction even if working well. If your issue is that the map tiles don't load, you should take a look at the Locus Map App. I loaded a couple of US states, and that was all I really needed, for what I use Locus Map for (typically on a 12" tablet). It's a nice map App that also has Geocaching functions. I tested it tonight while driving, and the map switches to GPS compass while driving, magnetic compass when stationary or walking speed). That's what I wish The Official App would do. Other than that, I don't know if Locus Map is your cup of tea. Just throwing it out there. The version I have is a legacy version, without a subscription.

Is the "20 image limit" a standard limitation on the Interwebs? First time I've heard of it. I used to upload images to a cache page for many Geocaching projects, including Forum posts, background images, lots of stuff, and as a way to organize them and not later "lose" them in the case of using a 3rd party site that removes files. But even then, there was no 20 image limit.

Are there dates and signatures on the log sheet?

Your line feeds are missing? I notice that the Profile is not centered on screen, and it appears to me to not be as wide as before. This may be to accommodate the ad bar which is recent, at the right side of the Profile. My Profile has at least one missing line feed, and some extra space. The spacing has become not uniform, and it's not clear to me what has changed, by looking at the source code. I just have some text and a few images, not a lot of stuff. I have been required to "fix" it over the years, as new site styles occurred. Lots of people lost embedded items such as banners and stats. My Profile mostly uses components within the "Geocaching.com" servers.

Ask the The Help Center. Ordinary Forum members cannot make special exceptions for Trackable items, and we can't sell the individual codes anyway. My handmade items have never been so amazing that I'd hope for Groundspeak to make an exception just for one item. Here's an example of a Trackable Item that is so unique, there is only one, with its own icon. Plus it has a customized Tracking Code! So I'm not gonna say that it can never happen, because there you go. I buy tags on clearance, and when I feel the need to use a Tracking Code without the actual tag, I use one of the tags' codes on hand. I don't have one that achieved worldwide acclaim, with everyone excited to log it. But you haven't what you'd offer to get that one-off Tracking Code. Maybe it's a deal they can't refuse. Go ask. But if it's that cool, consider making 50 or more of them, and go through the existing process of getting those Tracking Codes, coin name and the icon for the design. Keep your costs down, and you might at least be encouraged to make more. Geocachers buy neat Trackables all the time.

The typical way to get tracking codes from GC.com is when you buy them in bulk for a lot (50 or more) of the same design Geocoin, and the design is subject to approval. If you check for trackable tag sales and clearances, and if you're not picky about the icon, you may get a good deal on a few (or just one). Keep the tag, use the tracking code on your item. Or attach the tag. The main issue with putting the code onto a handmade item is getting finders to understand that it's a trackable item and not Swag to trade. That's the value of securely attaching a tag. Then they know.

Yes, placing files directly is an option. Plug it into USB, and it becomes a USB drive. Navigate to [Drive:]/Garmin/GPX, and remove any obsolete files, copy new GPX files. Bunch of info on using Garmin Oregon GPSs is here: https://www.gpsrchive.com/Oregon x00/index.htm

Yes, you should be able to set it up for Garmin Express, to use the web site's "Send To Garmin" feature, and to get software updates (if any). It's convenient, but I almost always manually delete and add GPX files instead. Just look at all the posts around here for "Send To Garmin doesn't work", and you'll understand why a more direct process is better. The 550 has nice readability in full sun. If it's cloudy and dark, I often left the backlight on, to make the screen easier to see. The 550 is a little slower and has fewer features than the more modern models. But I've kept mine even after upgrading. It's perfectly good for Geocaching. You can customize and personalize it just the way you like. Will you be able to test it before purchase? The USB connector is secured mainly by solder to the circuit board, and can fail. It's good to ensure it can connect to a PC.

Some Android smartphones (such as Samsung phones) have the ANT+ hardware built-in. Search the Google Play store for free "Chirp" Apps, which have a somewhat experimental feel. Also, the "Locus Maps" App can read Chirp. Certain Garmin GPSs (such as the Oregon 550, 650, and 750) have the ability to read Chirp, and after receiving a waypoint, you're offered the option to navigate to the waypoint. Good luck!

Has the new owner made any logs on the coin? If it's still in your inventory, the person holding it should make a Grab log so it is in their inventory. It's hard for me to guess, without specific information.

When functions are scrambled, it's best to contact the Help Center: https://www.geocaching.com/help/ But when you ask them, you'll likely need to be specific about which Geocoin it is.

Trackables are not trade items, so there's no trading required. You may retrieve as many as you can properly handle. You may instead do a "Discover" log and leave it in its cache, unless you're sure you can place it promptly. Log it, then place it into a suitable cache (or respect the trackables' goals). https://www.geocaching.com/help/index.php?pg=kb.chapter&id=102&pgid=767

Garmin Connect is for tracking fitness activities. How far you've run, heart rate, things like that. The Garmin Comnect smartphone App is a way to connect to a compatible GPS for Geocaching Live. Are you intending to use the Geocaching.com website's "Send To Garmin" feature, to send cache files to the GPS? If so, here's some info on how to set it up: GPS (geocaching.com)

Is the Montana appearing as a USB drive? If so, what's the error message when you try to move a file? If there are no apparent errors, have you checked if the file itself is missing from the Montana? It may be that it arrived just fine, but there's a filter set on the GPS that hides the cache. Also, if the cache is 60 miles or more away from the Garmin's current location (especially if the Garmin has not yet aligned to its actual location), the cache will not automatically be listed.

+1 That's a very good point! Marking an item Collectible enables it to be placed into a Collection (but that's two separate steps). If a TO is not actively trying to get a Trackable into a Collection, it should be selected back to "Not Collectible"... even if it's currently in a Collection ...because at that point the "Collectible" setting is not serving any purpose. If a TO is intent to get a Trackable into a Collection, there should be clear expectations typed into the TB description, or at least into a log. Perhaps the TO will be asleep when the intended person will be adding it to his Collection (on the other side of the world, for example). Or maybe the plan is that anyone may add it to their Collection, an open offer. Collection/Collection can be used in various ways. Clicking buttons just to see what happens - that's a bad way. It's best to have a clear, written plan, and to know what steps to perform and why. The Collection is also not a way to get your TB stolen. You can't lose it by having it in someone else's Collection. And the reason is, the Collection is a system that allows honest people to document who is keeping a Trackable and why. At the whim of the TO who can request it placed back into play at any time, and the request is respected. If the idea were that you could get your coveted TB stolen by using the Collection, this whole system is a super convoluted way to do so. It's much simpler for thieves to just pocket the thing, without all the paperwork. AND if you in fact were giving your TB away, "Collectible/Collection" is not the way to do that.