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321geocache

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Posts posted by 321geocache

  1. I think you should have, at the most, replaced the log. Not taken the cache. What if someone came to find it after you and had to DNF it?

     

    What I would have done is logged a find and a NM stating the log is wet and needs to be replaced.

  2. 34 minutes ago, NYPaddleCacher said:

    Take a look at the logs for a couple of caches in Indiana (Shelter II and Shelter III)  Shelter II has over 300 DNF logs and over 400 Notes (that are mostly subsequent instances of a DNF).   The caches are intended to be very difficult, those in the area know that they are very difficult, and those that have posted DNF logs wear them as a badge of honor.  There have been organized events to bring large groups together in an attempt to find them.  Videos have been made with cachers making their feelings know to the CO.  It's all in good fun and the DNFs are all part of the history of these caches and they wouldn't be nearly as famous (or infamous) without those DNF logs.  

     

    Not every cache is supposed to be easy to find.  

     

    Yes. I live not too far from both of these caches. (Visited the park years ago before knowing there were geocaches there) I have had these caches on my future "find list" of difficult caches I want to find.

     

    Being a CO myself, I want people to log DNFs if they don't find my caches. That lets me know if there's an issue with them. Even if the cache isn't there, I don't mind. As long as the cacher actually puts some effort into attempting to find the cache and doesn't find it, in my opinion the cacher should log a DNF.

  3.  

    On 6/23/2018 at 5:17 AM, EmzyJanezy said:

    I will always put DNF if I did not find it, for whatever reason, because that's the truth. Then I believe the activity log is for giving more detail so the CO or future geocachers can see whether the cache may be missing, hard to find, or whether it was simply the case that u had to leave because your kid needed the toilet or an ice-cream van had just pulled up (both of which I have indeed logged with a DNF)! ?

     

    On 6/23/2018 at 6:14 PM, NanCycle said:

    Now, for me both of those would not be DNFs .  They would be either Write Note or no log at all--maybe depending on how much time I'd spent looking before the interruption occurred.   Only if I was ready to give up anyway would I call it a DNF.

    I agree with NanCycle on this. I only log a DNF if I have actually looked for the cache and did not find it. I will not DNF a cache if I have not put some effort into searching for it. Instead, I will write a note or not log the cache at all. Just my opinion on how I search for caches, of course.

  4. I often cache in urban areas, so I can't really avoid caches near businesses or small parks. I don't mind these. But I dislike caches hidden very close to front yards. I once DNF'd a cache very close to someone's front yard. It was on a busy street corner in a residential neighborhood. It certainly wasn't a super easy cache, and would require some good searching. I didn't want to search for long, as in this area houses are close to the street, and I was about 15 or 20 feet from someone's front porch. After a quick search of the street corner, I DNF'd the cache and left. According to several logs after I looked for it, the cache was still there. However, I just didn't feel comfortable looking for it.

     

    Caches in front yards I almost always avoid. I just don't like searching for them in someone's front yard. In my area there are plenty of other caches, so I avoid these types of caches.

    • Upvote 1
  5. 13 minutes ago, kunarion said:

    It looks to be generally in the area of this park (not giving away the spot, which may not matter now, but whatever), but farther into the clearing to the left.  It would be good for the CO to return to the park manager and ask if landscapers might remove caches.  It seems to be a well-manicured spot.  I can't tell why it may be considered a place that "no one goes near".  The previous finders also may advise.  Maybe changing the hide style slightly would do the trick.

     

     

    Thanks Kunarion. I looked at the area, and and you said, it looks like a well-manicured spot. I second the idea of speaking with park management. Looks like an area that has plenty of muggles. Possibly hiding the cache off the ground (maybe camouflaged in a tree?) would help? I would recommend you change the style of the hide at minimum. A rock in such a high-traffic area will probably disappear.

  6. Since your cache is Premium Members Only, I can't see it. But I will ask a few questions:

     

    What does the cache look like? Does it blend in with the surrounding area? Is the cache located in a relatively urban area?

     

    Sounds like the area can experience heavy muggle traffic from some of the above posts. Combine that with a nighttime FTF, and you have a recipe for a missing cache. Since I can't see the cache listing, I can give you some help if you're able to answer the above questions and give me some basic info about the cache.

  7. My definition of well-hidden means that the cache is either:

     

    • Hidden so muggles cannot see it, or
    • Hidden in plain sight, so that if a muggle walks by they can easily see it but not know it's a cache (fake bolts are an example of this)

    If a cache is sitting in the open and is not camouflaged at all, (I've had this happen to me) then it will most likely be gone very soon.

  8. Make sure your caches are well-hidden. All my caches are in urban areas and only one has gone missing. (That was in a really lousy hiding spot, anyway).

     

    Walk by the cache area and pretend you're a muggle. Would you notice the cache if you were walking by? Don't be afraid to put your caches off the trail a bit so muggles cannot get to them easily from the trail or parking lot. And remember that you shouldn't just put the cache on the ground and leave - make sure to give it some camouflage with pieces of bark, branches, inside a log, etc.

     

    Hope this helps.

    • Upvote 2
  9. 23 hours ago, L0ne.R said:

    I don't think the Sterlite will stay watertight, but maybe they make them better these days. Go for it and check it in about 3 months maybe after a thunderstorm or two and see if it holds up.

     

    The tab ledge might be the problem point. I've found tab containers with a ledge that the tab locks under but the tab eventually won't sit snuggly under that ledge. 

     

    The Lock & Lock container has notches, each notch fits snuggly into the tab, then tab snaps under the ledge. So it has that added tight fitting mechanism.

    Thunderstorms are expected today or tomorrow, so I might test the container outdoors in my backyard to see if it gets wet. I'll be hiding the cache soon (next week) so I'll see how it holds up throughout the summer, and report back on the forums with "status updates" on the condition of the container when I visit the cache for maintenance.

    Thanks.

    • Upvote 1
  10. In my opinion, the internal volume is important to know whether trackables or swag will fit in a cache. For example, if a large stone has a small compartment in the bottom that is micro sized, but the cache is listed as "large" because of its external volume, that presents a problem. If someone brings a TB to put in the cache, but finds that it's actually not a Large cache but a micro, they've just wasted their time bringing the TB with them. IMO the cache should be listed as the container size, not the size of the hiding place.

    External volume is important as well. It helps the cacher to know what to look for. However, I think that it should not be how we rate caches. A nano hidden under a large fake rock - is it "Large" or "Micro"? I think it should be listed as Micro.

    2 hours ago, redsox_mark said:

    - If I hollow out that same stone but the internal compartment I create is small or micro sized?   Does that stone suddenly become "camo"?  

    I think the cache should be listed as small or micro. The stone really didn't become "camo".

  11. I was at the store today and saw that they had some large  lock n lock boxes about 2.5 liters (not lock n lock brand, but still very good quality) on sale for $5. I got one, and I'm considering going with that as a cache. It is large, inexpensive, and has a good seal that appears to keep water out well. I'm still thinking about whether to go with the lock n lock container/ammo can, or another more interesting container.

  12. 6 hours ago, justintim1999 said:

    I found one of these at a thrift store for $1.    It's been out now for over 4 years basically exposed to the elements.   Just checked up on it a few days ago and it's still bone dry.   There are all kinds of containers that will make good caches.   Some are good as is.  Some may need a little modification.   Always keep your eyes open for new and interesting containers and don't be afraid to give something a try. 

    I'll certainly be using a container that's not ordinary. Instead of the usual ammo can or lock n lock, I'll probably try using something a bit more interesting, like your container. If anything goes wrong with the container, I'll just replace it with an ammo can or lock n lock box.

  13. Yes, Little Free Library caches sound good. Even though I've found few caches, I have now gotten the hang of geocaching, and things I like and don't like about certain caches. One of the top things I don't like is searching in people's front or back yards. I haven't found any caches like this, but I've looked at them online. I just wouldn't feel comfortable looking in someone's yard for a cache. I prefer caches to be in commercial areas, such as near stores, or in parks. Now, on the other hand, if a cache is unique or interesting, I'll search for it in someone's yard. However, a run-of-the-mill bison tube? Probably not.

  14. From what I'm hearing, a lock n lock container or an ammo can are probably the best options. I might try hiding two regular size caches - one lock n lock and one ammo can - to see which is more durable. I'm thinking the ammo can is probably better.

    Thanks for your help!

  15. 1 hour ago, coachstahly said:

    I'm flattered but famous is certainly a new one to me.  LOL

     

     

    I can't wait to find one of your mystery or multi caches. They all seem well-made and bring people to interesting places. One mystery cache in particular seems a little easier to solve. I'll probably try it on the weekend when I have time to walk to each stage.

     

    1 hour ago, coachstahly said:

    I actually have a couple PB jars out (once I actually thought about my caches), but for the most part, they're not really exposed to a lot of sunshine so I have that going for me with regard to plastic degradation when it comes to sun exposure.  The best ones are still metal ammo cans and those have held up the best when compared to everything else.  The problem is finding a spot that a muggle won't just happen to find when out strolling.  That is always my first consideration, when I'm thinking about placing an ammo can.  

     

    The park I am hiding the cache in has many muggles, but the area of the park where I'm hiding it has few muggles as it is off the trail. It should be a relatively easy cache, about a 1.5/1.5 or 1.5/2.0. No hilly or rough terrain.

    This park is also home to one of your multi caches with a D/T rating of 5/4. Looks like the cache I'll be hiding will have the lowest D/T rating in the park.

  16. 12 minutes ago, kunarion said:

    No way!  Looks like I need to make a trip to the international grocery store.  That's where I bought my big lock-n-locks, a knock-off version called "Hold Lock".  And the biggest ones look so handy, I haven't placed them as caches.  I'll be using them as storage containers.  Weird, huh? ^_^

     

     

    There's one international grocery in particular near me where almost everything is a knock-off. The kitchen items are not KitchenAid or Rubbermaid or Tupperware, rather "Kitchen Helper Brand" or "Best Container Latest Model Brand". :D

    Seriously, though, the stainless-steel containers I got (from a different grocery) are extremely durable as food storage containers. I have gotten rid of most of my plastic Rubbermaid or Tupperware containers and have used the steel ones instead.

    16 minutes ago, kunarion said:

    The stainless steel containers interest me, because I once made a "mirror camo" prototype (posted around here somewhere) which is pretty much concealed by... a mirror.  The reflection hides the whole thing by showing more of the same bush, leaves, and pine straw.  I've considered what may happen with a mirror container.  Plus I'm looking forward to your Owner Maintenance posts where you "polished the cache". :P

    Interesting, I would like to see it. The only problem with a mirror cache is if, well, the mirror breaks. :) I'm not really sure if I should use these stainless steel containers as caches, though. They will be subject to further testing in the dishwasher, sink, and outdoors. It's going to rain the next few days, so I might put the container outdoors to see if water gets in it.

    Until the tests on the stainless steel containers are successful, an ammo can is sounding best. Durable, long-lasting, easy to clean, and blends in with the environment.

     

    Thanks.

  17. 34 minutes ago, kunarion said:

     

    Shiny!  Those are not "regular" cache size, right?

     

    I've found a lot of similar metal container caches, no water seal, in places where a container with a water seal is necessary.  These things are all rusty and the log sheet is soaking wet.  And now I have rusty mud on both hands from opening and closing the thing.  Yay?

     

    I think you don't completely understand what these are :) These are stainless-steel containers that I get from an international grocery store. (By the way, the ones in the picture aren't mine - they're just the closest I can get to the ones I have) They are food storage containers that have a gasket/o-ring around the edge. I use them instead of Tupperware/Rubbermaid food containers. They last much longer and almost never break.

    And yes, some of them are quite large, and "Regular" cache size. I'll do a test with these by running them through the dishwasher while they are closed. Probably a bad idea for a cache, but I will try and see if any water gets inside.

     

    barefootjeff - the first one is similar to what I'm talking about. Except some of mine have a o-ring around the edge. Google "dabba container".

     

    Thanks.

  18. Hi,

    Thanks for the help. I'm looking into getting some metal ammo cans online or at a local antique/junk store.

    Just curious - anyone have experience with these as cache containers? I have many of these I use at home - they just seem more durable than plastic containers.

    B1152950150.jpg

    Thanks.

     

  19. (Sorry for asking so many questions about cache containers - just wanted to make sure that I choose a good container that will last for years.)

     

    I have decided to hide a Regular size geocache. I don't want to be one of those people who hides 100 LPCs and guardrail caches and then doesn't maintain them. Instead, I want to try to hide fewer, but quality caches that are in excellent shape and maintained often.

    I have selected a spot for the cache that is located in a park just off the trail. It is close to parking, and should be rated about 1.5/1.5 or 1.5/2.0. Now, I have to choose a good, durable container. Other than an ammo can, what is the best container to use as a regular-size cache? I want it to be durable and not require maintenance often due to water getting inside.

    Thanks.

  20. Hi,

    I always hear geocaching described as "using a GPS to find Tupperware in the woods." I'm interested to see how well Tupperware works as a geocache. I have a large Tupperware container that I'm thinking of using as a geocache. The plastic is not flimsy like some of the cheaper, newer plastic containers, and it appears to be in excellent shape. Does anyone have experience with Tupperware as a geocache? Are the containers durable, and do they last long?

    Thanks.

  21. It's hard to give tips for finding every micro geocache, as each one is placed differently. The first cache I looked for I had to log a DNF on. I learned later that it was an LPC, meaning that you lift up the lamp post skirt and the cache is under it. I have since found several of them. There are many places where a micro could be hidden - under a lamp post skirt, a magnetic nano attached to a street sign, a plastic container zip-tied to a pine tree branch, et cetera. It depends on the particular cache you're looking for. Don't forget to use the hint if you can't find it.

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