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Everything posted by 321geocache

  1. I think you should have, at the most, replaced the log. Not taken the cache. What if someone came to find it after you and had to DNF it? What I would have done is logged a find and a NM stating the log is wet and needs to be replaced.
  2. Yes. I live not too far from both of these caches. (Visited the park years ago before knowing there were geocaches there) I have had these caches on my future "find list" of difficult caches I want to find. Being a CO myself, I want people to log DNFs if they don't find my caches. That lets me know if there's an issue with them. Even if the cache isn't there, I don't mind. As long as the cacher actually puts some effort into attempting to find the cache and doesn't find it, in my opinion the cacher should log a DNF.
  3. I agree with NanCycle on this. I only log a DNF if I have actually looked for the cache and did not find it. I will not DNF a cache if I have not put some effort into searching for it. Instead, I will write a note or not log the cache at all. Just my opinion on how I search for caches, of course.
  4. I often cache in urban areas, so I can't really avoid caches near businesses or small parks. I don't mind these. But I dislike caches hidden very close to front yards. I once DNF'd a cache very close to someone's front yard. It was on a busy street corner in a residential neighborhood. It certainly wasn't a super easy cache, and would require some good searching. I didn't want to search for long, as in this area houses are close to the street, and I was about 15 or 20 feet from someone's front porch. After a quick search of the street corner, I DNF'd the cache and left. According to several logs after I looked for it, the cache was still there. However, I just didn't feel comfortable looking for it. Caches in front yards I almost always avoid. I just don't like searching for them in someone's front yard. In my area there are plenty of other caches, so I avoid these types of caches.
  5. Thanks Kunarion. I looked at the area, and and you said, it looks like a well-manicured spot. I second the idea of speaking with park management. Looks like an area that has plenty of muggles. Possibly hiding the cache off the ground (maybe camouflaged in a tree?) would help? I would recommend you change the style of the hide at minimum. A rock in such a high-traffic area will probably disappear.
  6. Since your cache is Premium Members Only, I can't see it. But I will ask a few questions: What does the cache look like? Does it blend in with the surrounding area? Is the cache located in a relatively urban area? Sounds like the area can experience heavy muggle traffic from some of the above posts. Combine that with a nighttime FTF, and you have a recipe for a missing cache. Since I can't see the cache listing, I can give you some help if you're able to answer the above questions and give me some basic info about the cache.
  7. My definition of well-hidden means that the cache is either: Hidden so muggles cannot see it, or Hidden in plain sight, so that if a muggle walks by they can easily see it but not know it's a cache (fake bolts are an example of this) If a cache is sitting in the open and is not camouflaged at all, (I've had this happen to me) then it will most likely be gone very soon.
  8. Make sure your caches are well-hidden. All my caches are in urban areas and only one has gone missing. (That was in a really lousy hiding spot, anyway). Walk by the cache area and pretend you're a muggle. Would you notice the cache if you were walking by? Don't be afraid to put your caches off the trail a bit so muggles cannot get to them easily from the trail or parking lot. And remember that you shouldn't just put the cache on the ground and leave - make sure to give it some camouflage with pieces of bark, branches, inside a log, etc. Hope this helps.
  9. Permission is definitely needed from the entity that owns the buoy. Not getting permission is being irresponsible and not complying with the rules of geocaching, not to mention local laws. Of course, if you have permission to hide the cache, then go ahead.
  10. Thunderstorms are expected today or tomorrow, so I might test the container outdoors in my backyard to see if it gets wet. I'll be hiding the cache soon (next week) so I'll see how it holds up throughout the summer, and report back on the forums with "status updates" on the condition of the container when I visit the cache for maintenance. Thanks.
  11. In my opinion, the internal volume is important to know whether trackables or swag will fit in a cache. For example, if a large stone has a small compartment in the bottom that is micro sized, but the cache is listed as "large" because of its external volume, that presents a problem. If someone brings a TB to put in the cache, but finds that it's actually not a Large cache but a micro, they've just wasted their time bringing the TB with them. IMO the cache should be listed as the container size, not the size of the hiding place. External volume is important as well. It helps the cacher to know what to look for. However, I think that it should not be how we rate caches. A nano hidden under a large fake rock - is it "Large" or "Micro"? I think it should be listed as Micro. I think the cache should be listed as small or micro. The stone really didn't become "camo".
  12. I don't know where I got $5, must have been a typo. It was $9.99. It is Sterilite brand. Here's a photo from their website:
  13. I was at the store today and saw that they had some large lock n lock boxes about 2.5 liters (not lock n lock brand, but still very good quality) on sale for $5. I got one, and I'm considering going with that as a cache. It is large, inexpensive, and has a good seal that appears to keep water out well. I'm still thinking about whether to go with the lock n lock container/ammo can, or another more interesting container.
  14. I'll certainly be using a container that's not ordinary. Instead of the usual ammo can or lock n lock, I'll probably try using something a bit more interesting, like your container. If anything goes wrong with the container, I'll just replace it with an ammo can or lock n lock box.
  15. Yes, Little Free Library caches sound good. Even though I've found few caches, I have now gotten the hang of geocaching, and things I like and don't like about certain caches. One of the top things I don't like is searching in people's front or back yards. I haven't found any caches like this, but I've looked at them online. I just wouldn't feel comfortable looking in someone's yard for a cache. I prefer caches to be in commercial areas, such as near stores, or in parks. Now, on the other hand, if a cache is unique or interesting, I'll search for it in someone's yard. However, a run-of-the-mill bison tube? Probably not.
  16. From what I'm hearing, a lock n lock container or an ammo can are probably the best options. I might try hiding two regular size caches - one lock n lock and one ammo can - to see which is more durable. I'm thinking the ammo can is probably better. Thanks for your help!
  17. I can't wait to find one of your mystery or multi caches. They all seem well-made and bring people to interesting places. One mystery cache in particular seems a little easier to solve. I'll probably try it on the weekend when I have time to walk to each stage. The park I am hiding the cache in has many muggles, but the area of the park where I'm hiding it has few muggles as it is off the trail. It should be a relatively easy cache, about a 1.5/1.5 or 1.5/2.0. No hilly or rough terrain. This park is also home to one of your multi caches with a D/T rating of 5/4. Looks like the cache I'll be hiding will have the lowest D/T rating in the park.
  18. coachstahly - Thanks for the suggestion. I’m still considering which type of container to use. I’m in the same area as you. I’m considering finding one of your famous multi or mystery caches.
  19. There's one international grocery in particular near me where almost everything is a knock-off. The kitchen items are not KitchenAid or Rubbermaid or Tupperware, rather "Kitchen Helper Brand" or "Best Container Latest Model Brand". Seriously, though, the stainless-steel containers I got (from a different grocery) are extremely durable as food storage containers. I have gotten rid of most of my plastic Rubbermaid or Tupperware containers and have used the steel ones instead. Interesting, I would like to see it. The only problem with a mirror cache is if, well, the mirror breaks. I'm not really sure if I should use these stainless steel containers as caches, though. They will be subject to further testing in the dishwasher, sink, and outdoors. It's going to rain the next few days, so I might put the container outdoors to see if water gets in it. Until the tests on the stainless steel containers are successful, an ammo can is sounding best. Durable, long-lasting, easy to clean, and blends in with the environment. Thanks.
  20. I think you don't completely understand what these are These are stainless-steel containers that I get from an international grocery store. (By the way, the ones in the picture aren't mine - they're just the closest I can get to the ones I have) They are food storage containers that have a gasket/o-ring around the edge. I use them instead of Tupperware/Rubbermaid food containers. They last much longer and almost never break. And yes, some of them are quite large, and "Regular" cache size. I'll do a test with these by running them through the dishwasher while they are closed. Probably a bad idea for a cache, but I will try and see if any water gets inside. barefootjeff - the first one is similar to what I'm talking about. Except some of mine have a o-ring around the edge. Google "dabba container". Thanks.
  21. Hi, Thanks for the help. I'm looking into getting some metal ammo cans online or at a local antique/junk store. Just curious - anyone have experience with these as cache containers? I have many of these I use at home - they just seem more durable than plastic containers. Thanks.
  22. (Sorry for asking so many questions about cache containers - just wanted to make sure that I choose a good container that will last for years.) I have decided to hide a Regular size geocache. I don't want to be one of those people who hides 100 LPCs and guardrail caches and then doesn't maintain them. Instead, I want to try to hide fewer, but quality caches that are in excellent shape and maintained often. I have selected a spot for the cache that is located in a park just off the trail. It is close to parking, and should be rated about 1.5/1.5 or 1.5/2.0. Now, I have to choose a good, durable container. Other than an ammo can, what is the best container to use as a regular-size cache? I want it to be durable and not require maintenance often due to water getting inside. Thanks.
  23. I'll probably just go with a lock n lock container. Doesn't sound like Tupperware is durable. Thanks!
  24. Hi, I always hear geocaching described as "using a GPS to find Tupperware in the woods." I'm interested to see how well Tupperware works as a geocache. I have a large Tupperware container that I'm thinking of using as a geocache. The plastic is not flimsy like some of the cheaper, newer plastic containers, and it appears to be in excellent shape. Does anyone have experience with Tupperware as a geocache? Are the containers durable, and do they last long? Thanks.
  25. It's hard to give tips for finding every micro geocache, as each one is placed differently. The first cache I looked for I had to log a DNF on. I learned later that it was an LPC, meaning that you lift up the lamp post skirt and the cache is under it. I have since found several of them. There are many places where a micro could be hidden - under a lamp post skirt, a magnetic nano attached to a street sign, a plastic container zip-tied to a pine tree branch, et cetera. It depends on the particular cache you're looking for. Don't forget to use the hint if you can't find it.
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