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Grasscatcher

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Posts posted by Grasscatcher

  1. @phlatlander,

    Sharp eyes also tell me that the cover is NOT slid into the "lock" position.....so of course it will not stay down. You have to close it, then, while it is down, slide it into the "lock" position.

     

    Look at it with a magnifying glass very closely and you can see what I'm talking about. Take the card out first. You can also take the little chrome cover completely out and repair / return it's shape back to original.

  2. Sorry if I came across as an AH.

     

    Think about this.....only install your "most used" maps on the unit itself.

     

    For other "less traveled" maps, put them in acceptable sized groups on another (or individual multiple other) micro card(s). Using a card reader, you can install maps to a card faster than plugging the GPS into your computer.

     

    When you are going to a new area, just change out the card to a different one. Back to the original area? Change back to the original one.Hardly takes any longer than changing batteries.

     

    Multiple smaller capacity cards quite often are cheaper than a single large capacity card. On a trip, tape extras in a plastic case on the back of your unit or carry in your wallet.

  3. I have a Garmin Oregon 450 and bought a Micro Sd map card. The card location is really bad design as it sits under the batteries and within 3 months as I was changing the batteries the Sd card slipped out of position and broke as I was installing the new batteries. I contacted Garmin, they would not replace the card, so now I am forced to buy another... Grrrr. Has anyone else have this problem? Is there any other solutions?

     

    ?????? What?......The card CAN'T "slip out of position" !

     

    Look at the "BAD DESIGN" and you'll see the words "open" and "lock". Once you move the lock cover to the open position, open it and slip the card into position, close and slide the little cover to the "Lock" position. It's there,and can't move (or slip out of position)!

     

    There are so many choices of FREE maps available that are, in most cases, BETTER maps than the Garmin maps.......the loss of the card may not be a big deal anyway.

  4. OMG !,

     

    The truth FINALLY comes out!.....the MAJOR PROBLEM turns out to be just a small matter of convenience!!

     

    Good grief....just type a couple more letters in the name.Don't multiple,multiple,multiple choices disappear ?..........

     

    That's faster than manually searching in a list. You've personally chosen to greatly expand the database.

    How can you expect ANY software to read your mind?

  5. There are a couple possibilities. One is the 78, which is like the 62 with a real NMEA interface (old-school, 4 pin connector), and the 640, which is more suited for a car than for handheld usage.

    I've had a 62ST for a while now, and I tried a few times to get it to spit out NMEA data, but with no luck. I'm glad to see that somebody has had success with it.

     

    Really for APRS the 78 series (or the old 76/60 series) with the round "4 pin" connector can't be beat.

    Power and data all in one plug.

     

    I have a 76CSx and a 78S which I use interchangeably in a small "camera bag" APRS portable rig. Very neat cable application which I can run both radio and GPS on their own batteries or carry a small 5 amp hr 12 v sealed lead acid battery, in the case also, to power both simultaneously.

  6. I JUST ( this morning) got a new Montana 650 ....

     

    Literally the first thing that happened after taking it out of the box and charging up the li-ion battery was "backup".

     

    The next thing that will happen to it before it even goes out of the house or before my hands get dirty is that it will get a screen protector installed.

     

    Then and only then can I go play with it..............

  7. OP,

     

    NOW.......if it's straightened out, and before you screw it up again......hook it up to your computer where you can view its contents as a separate drive, and make a BACKUP of the entire GPS file system. RIGHT NOW !........Problem solved!

     

    You are NOT the first one to delete the wrong files, and neither will you be the last.....but no one needs to lose any files. Just make a backup, because next time, a reset may not fix it.

  8. The bearing pointer is what is sticking. I couldn't care less about the compass, but the bearing pointer is sticking, it will not move, it locks up!!!!!!!!!!

     

    ........then why would you object to turning it off???. If you turn it off and it cures the problem (as the most simple work around)then you know that it is a "compass" problem. You can always turn it back on and try it again after the next "update".

     

    Yes, it would be nice if everything electronic worked perfectly all the time....but......

  9. The bearing pointer is what is sticking. I couldn't care less about the compass, but the bearing pointer is sticking, it will not move, it locks up!!!!!!!!!!

    Is the compass turned on? Go into your settings and find out. If it is, turn it off. It affects the way the bearing pointer works.

     

    I just came back from finding 8 different section corners and my 550 (ver 6.00) worked perfectly.

  10. @kwart,

    THINK......and turn the compass OFF. What difference does it make which "compass direction" you are going if you are heading directly to the specific location determined by specific coordinates?

     

    If the location is in the center of the country, people in Texas have to go "North", in Calif. they go East, in N Dakota, South .....etc. All must go different compass directions , but all are heading correctly to the same specific point.

     

    If you are not standing on top of "the cache" (or any other coordinate location)..... can you get there without moving? Duh....of course not. So, turn your COMPASS..... OFF.... and use the "bearing" pointer (set to "bearing" not "course". (bearing pointer is the same as "compass" pointer ) Also use "North UP" orientation.

     

    As soon as you move a few feet and establish a direction of travel, the bearing pointer will "point" directly at the desired coordinate location, based on whatever correction to that "direction of travel" is needed to get to the specific coordinate location by "Go To".

    Who cares which "compass direction " N,S,E,W that is? Yes, IMHO, strictly as a matter of convenience,the compass should keep the pointer pointing at the coordinate location when the user is stopped. Again, who cares???, you can't get there when you're stopped anyway.....

     

    If there was a circle of 50 people around a cache with their GPSs, each would have to travel a different "compass direction" to get to the specific coordinates.So.....who cares about "direction". The coordinate location does not change.... no matter which "direction" you have to travel to reach it.

     

    Your ACTUAL path of travel is ultimately going to be controlled by ground features and common sense anyway.....and you can't get there without moving.

     

    If you NEED to determine a compass direction, turn the compass ON, calibrate it and use the unit as a compass. Then TURN IT OFF.

  11. @S Duck,

    you really showed them....now you'll really find out about customer service ! ....at least you didn't get a DeLorme with their paranoid proprietary, proprietary, proprietary.

    However, don't be sellin' it to AC....trade it for a Montana 650 and then sell THAT piece of junk to me!

     

    AC you beat me.....! but I already have an Oregon 550(happily running v 6.00),and a 78S,and a 76CSx so I need a Montana 650 !

  12. Save all of your data first, then do a "master reset" ...... then of course you'll have to redo all of your settings.(including the "show on map" for each track.

     

    It fixed mine.

     

    Something that will make it a little easier..... Whatever data that you want to keep in your unit on a "permanent" basis....save it all to a single GPX file and put that gpx file on the sd card. The unit will load the data just the same.

     

    Note: If you have a series of tracks in the gpx file on the card and want/need to "archive" any of them, when you archive one, the unit takes it off the card and out of the gpx file. Then if you remove it from archive and make it a "favorite", it is then in internal memory(and not on the card). Whether it comes from the card or internal memory, it shows up on the unit the same way. There's no way to have the unit put it back on the card.........so, the easy way to handle things is just to keep a "master" data file updated for placement on the card and just delete the unwanted data from internal memory.

  13. For some reason my saved tracks no longer show up on my map page on my Garmin 78s. In track manager I display "show on map" and none show up. They do show up when I select "view map", but definitely not convenient. Is there a button sequence I applied without knowing that make my tracks invisible.

     

    Be sure that what you are actively "Seeing" on the track manager page is "Hide on Map". .....that means that it is "currently" being displayed and that is the only other option (either it's shown or not). ( If you "see" Show on map then it is hidden, if you "see" Hide on map, then it is shown)

     

    Yeah, I know, it's kinda a backwards way of doing it , but it is what it is.

     

    If they were displayed in the past, but not now, and you didn't intentionally change them......that setting sometimes changes when software is upgraded, and also if you "archive" a track and then bring it back to "favorites", it has to be reset again.

     

    "Hidden" is essentially the default, apparently to keep the map from getting too cluttered.

  14. I don't know if this will help or not.

     

    Somewhere in the back of my mind I remember reading something about it being important to not lose power when unit is set to record baro pressure "all the time". I don't know if that was just to preserve the pressure data integrity or if it would also involve the integrity of the gpx file that the unit was trying to write that data to. The unit may keep a gpx file "partially" open or something similar when it is set to "record always".

    When normal startup occurs, the unit goes thru and loads all the data from all the gpx files as a normal part of that process. Maybe the one that it tried to write the pressure data to , but couldn't, is the one that is getting corrupted.

    Possibly a loss of power maybe just instantaneously when batteries were removed even while hooked up with USB. Or maybe with no batteries in it, the USB cable was bumped ,

  15. I think some flat landers are missing my point. When you you hike up a mountain two things mess up a GPS, altitude change and switch backs. When I started the trail just below "Rock of Ages", my GPS said 700 feet to the cache and it took me an hour to get there. Also, the GPS tries to smooth zig-zags in a track caused by position errors and ends up smoothing out switch backs.

    First of all, my house is at 8725 ft elevation, so why you callin' me a "Flatlander" ????

    Second, you're walking almost too slow for the GPS to accurately detect movement if it takes you an hour to travel 700 ft ! HA !

    The remainder is equally factually incorrect.

  16. @ Deepbuti,

     

    Can you get a gpx file of the "official" version of the trail?

     

    If so, then you could compare it with yours, both visually and data differences.

     

    Is there any areas of major visual differences? Where & why?

    ...or is their just a gradual difference in distance? (definitely you should use "more often" or "most often" with your "auto" setting).

     

    With the comparison of the two files, you should be able to determine where, why, and how the different lengths happened.

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