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Posts posted by Grasscatcher

  1. Hint or no hint, he probably should stick with one like yours or a 76 CSx(same GPS insides as yours, just different looks outside), or go with one of the new 62 or 78 series (S models, can add free maps later).Especially if he wants to mount it on his sled. However, the screens are the same size as yours.


    The newer ones that have slightly larger (touch) screens are much more difficult to see outside, especially when in a mount, because the user cant tilt and turn the unit to get it in a different light to view it.


    If he definitely chooses to mount it on the machine, I would definitely recommend a "Ram" brand mount. Sturdy and good.


    All the above being said, I think that carrying the GPS in a interior jacket pocket is a better choice. I've mapped several thousand miles of trails, using BOTH methods and IMHO "jacket" is better when snowmobiling. In summer, on ATV or bike, exterior mounting is fine.



    bulky snowmobile gloves and small buttons....not so good combination

    batteries last longer when warmer

    in most cases the rider must stop to read the screen anyway due to vibration and glare (at least here in Colorado) (and take gloves off to push buttons)

    The newer touchscreen models are almost totally worthless when in a fixed mount outside in bright sunny glare.(especially with sunglasses or goggles on)


    All of the above is strictly my opinion based on actual experiences and using my Oregon 550, my 76CSx, and my 78S.

  2. Is it strictly a variation between the two different programs that you're seeing, or are you saying that Trimble's results obtained recently (but backdated) don't agree with Trimble's results (previously obtained)for the same time and date.(which at that time were a prediction)?


    I've always found Trimble Planning to be very accurate, BUT.....I've never tried to compare a newly acquired chart to one that I previously obtained.


    I always ....always print out a chart/list of which sats that I "should" be seeing at my present location/time and go outside and physically veriify on my GPS that , in fact, those are the ones that I "am" seeing.


    That's just a double check to eliminate "operator error" in settings.

    Correct almanac, time zone, DST, etc

  3. Learn how to use, I mean REALLY LEARN how to use your GPS by turning off the maps or at least don't even look at the map page.


    With all the hype about memory size.... to hold all the maps for the whole country or at least every area you can imagine, but have never been to and will never go to........maps are really totally unnecessary. Yes, they are convenient and "neat" and "awesome" but not required.


    Learn to use your GPS by actually USING it. Play with it, learn what it can do and what it can't do , when to trust it and when not to, and why. Learn how YOUR actions can affect its accuracy.


    Think about it, maps and aerial photos are just pictures. Maps have limited actual usefulness (and errors also), and georeferencing errors in APs sometimes render them almost useless if coordinate accuracy is important to you.


    What dfx said........... "personally I'd put my trust on the GPSr and not on the maps"...............100% correct !

  4. What's NOT good in my opinion is that you have to just "assume" it's giving you the correct info, with no way to double check (that I can find).


    Even with Trimble Planning software, I ALWAYS go to the specific visible sats page and verify that my GPS is "seeing" the exact same sats that the software "says" it should see at my present location. That's just a double check that all settings are correct.

  5. The main problem is that you don't seem to understand that you really ARE NOT getting what you THINK you are getting.


    See if this makes sense.....Normal walking speed=3mph


    At 3 mph that is 5280 X 3=15,840 ft /hr....then divide that by 3600 to get ft / second of time which = 4.4 ft/sec.


    Set at 1/sec and traveling at 3 mph walking speed, your unit will log the maximum number of points it is capable of and that will be once every 4.4 ft. ( HINT: 4.4 ft is further than 1 yd ! ) Traveling faster than 3 mph will result in TP being logged at an even greater distance apart, or you could change your method of traveling to crawling to get the points closer together.


    So setting your unit to log at interval of 1 yd or .01 yard falls in the category of ..........DUH !


    Then next you will view your tracks displayed over maps (USGS quads) created with mapping tolerances of +/- 40 ft.


    Then for the next exercise in futility you need to follow the exact same single track path multiple times and on different days to check the repeatability of your unit and methods.


    What you thought you knew "'taint necessarily so"

  6. Most Often=Up to and including the maximum logging rate of the unit. ie 1/sec


    Auto=Unit determines the logging rate automatically, as needed (determined by unit calculated direction traveled) to accurately describe actual path traveled.


    A straight line path can be more accurately described by only two points than by adding multiple equally spaced points along the line.....but very few hiking paths are perfectly straight lines.


    But again....it all hinges on the speed traveled that determines the distance between points, whether they be logged at a rate of one / second "manually set" or logged at 1 / second in auto/most often, and therefore the "smoothness" of the track described.


    Higher magnifications ? I can zoom in to where I can see only the empty space between adjacent trackpoints, but that proves absolutely nothing.


    Use UTM coordinates and then trigonometry to calculate the actual distance between adjacent trackpoint coordinates logged and I think what you learn will prove to be a real education.

  7. I have over 300 caches loaded onto my GPSmap 76CSx and I now want to delete most of them. Does anybody know if there is any way I can perform a mass select and delete either directly from the GPS or via a software application? So far I have only been able to delete them individually (one at a time). I'd rather be out caching than spending all day doing this, so any advice would be greatly appreciated! :P Thanks!!


    You can not delete via software, the unit is not set up for this.


    You can delete them all in one shot ...find->waypoint->menu->delete..


    Your choices are


    or select by symbol


    Jholly, Reread the OP.....maybe you (or I) misunderstood? I can, and do delete individual or multiple waypoints at once by using Expert GPS (or Easy GPS ).


    Download all from unit and delete the unwanted, then reload what you want to save back in.

  8. Ahhh...so many experts but still so little information.......


    The unit maximum for logging trackpoints is (1) per second of time,.... so, set to "Auto" /Most Often, or "Time" and One/second, the distance between adjacent points is controlled strictly by the speed you are traveling.


    Consider ......if you had the unit set to log a point every 10 ft , as soon as you got over 6.XX mph, the distance between adjacent points would exceed the "10 ft setting" due to your traveling more than 10 ft in the previous/last second.


    The "Auto" /Most Often method is the most accurate/trackpoint efficient method. If you are traveling "straight" it will log fewer points. When the unit detects a change in direction, it will log more points to describe the actual path more closely. (but still only up to a max of 1/sec)

  9. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but,I'm thinking that trackback should take you back along the original track unless you specify those specific cliffs and select them to "Go To".


    Also something you might want to play with to see if it's something along the lines of what you want, is using one of the "data fields" called "Distance to Next". Another is Dist to Destination which should be the orig start point of the track.


    Also manually place a waypoint on the track path at/near the cliffs (but don't "select" it to go to)and at some point on the return trip , it should show up in the Dist to Next data field. Nearby waypoints in your unit will show up there ( Dist T N) automatically. (while navigating)


    I don't know that you will get actual turn by turn directions but the "Bearing Pointer" (another data field choice) will predict upcoming turns a short distance ahead of time.(while navigating with Trackback)

  10. There is one downside. The archived file is only created when the active log gets past 10000 points. If you master reset the unit, the active track is lost and you won't have a copy of that data. With the old system, you would have a copy up to the last time the track logging was stopped in the archived files on the card.

    That kind of sucks. I routinely clear my tracklog, whenever I think I may need it to get back to where I am. And I know I don't have to worry about having a record of where I've been previously, that I can use for geotagging.


    PS, Think about it...you really have the best of both (old & new) worlds. Save it and then clear the tracklog, no lost data when saving. Download whenever you get a chance, then review, delete, re-load, whatever. Now, with 200 tracks, 10,000 points, and ability to archive (those are IN ADDITION to the 200) it's about impossible to lose data.


    I map hiking, snowmobile, ATV trails and it's literally been ages since I lost even a single trackpoint that I didn't want to ......and that's with both old (with card) and new systems (logging to memory).

    Last data I lost and had to go back and re-do was when the Dummy User (Me) forgot to turn the unit back on after a lunch break......DUH !

  11. FORGET Metric vs English......forget Meter vs Yard/Feet....


    For every digit that the coordinates differ for a specific location....that's approximately one pace / step.


    And only two directions....East and North.... either more East or less East and the same for North.


    Works fer me !

  12. This is why God made UTM. ;-)


    Yes RMB, but don't tell EVERYONE how easy it is to use UTM, 'cause "they" will use up all the Northing and Easting numbers and then we won't be able to tell where we are....totally lost out here in never never land!


    Never having to convert or guesstimate....

  13. Lee,

    Expert GPS, Topofusion, Garmin's Training Center, Nat Geo TOPO, all will do the same thing.


    One thing you will find is that when you create an elevation profile from a GPS track(all working with exactly the same track), the total gain,loss, etc will vary, sometimes significantly, between softwares. Due to different degrees of smoothing,filtering, algorithims used .

  14. Something's wrong here....your numbers don't make sense (to me anyway)...


    The previous released version was 3.52 and the firmware was 4.46.


    The beta is 3.61beta and the new firmware is 4.48....so they are not even up to "3.70" yet.


    I'd try re-updating again. My 550 update went smoothly first time. Now says 3.61 Beta and 4.48.


    Mine is set to Spanner mode also.


    Did you use "Updater"? That won't work on betas....just download the update file and double click on it and it will go through the same type process as when you update to a released full version (with Updater).

  15. See Post #2....that's the straight stuff.......

    If you MUST have the touch screen ( they are nice as you know, but you lose visibility) then go with the 450.

    If you want to be able to turn your unit on and see it ....inside, outside, bright and sunny or overcast.....then go with the new 78 series or 62 series (not out yet). Essentially the same working system, just not touchscreen....

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