MI_CO

I believe to the majority of the Geocachers, Winter Friendly means the cache is accessible in the winter without the aid of special equipment and not located on the ground where it could be covered with snow. Caches in urban areas, small parks, and areas with mild winters come to mind. That said, Winter Friendly in parts of the country, like where you are in Alaska, or where I am in the Colorado Rockies, takes on a new meaning. Snowshoes, skis, and 4 wheel drive vehicles are normal, not 'special' equipment! I lived in Michigan for years and some caches were High Terrain rated because you needed a boat to reach them. However, these caches were Winter Friendly because all you had to do was walk across the frozen inland lake or river to reach them, no boat required! Of course I am speaking of inland lakes, not a Great Lake, and the caches had the proper 'make sure the ice is thick enough to walk on' disclaimer.

Like most posters, I believe releasing travel bugs into the wild is at your own risk, just like buying a lottery ticket. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. I don't think Premium-only caches are the answer. You can state that in your bug's page that you want it only to be placed into a Premium cache, but it should not be a 'rule.' I also wholeheartedly agree with the poster who said that the geocaching landscape has changed with the introduction of smart phones. Used to be you had to invest in a GPS handheld to geocache, and back then, even cheap ones were $100. Now, anyone with a smart phone can cache, with no investment. This has led to cachers who may only do one or two out of curiosity, not someone who will be in it for the long run. The one or two cache people may not know how attached people become to their travel bugs, and just keep or toss a travel bug they come across if they have no interest in continuing.

I am so excited I had to post... I released 3 travel bugs and one coin into the wild 4.5 years ago, well knowing that they may not last long. One travel bug was muggled after 4,000 miles, one was picked up by a one cache wonder after 100 miles, the coin went missing. But one travel bug, my favorite of them all, Dream Cruise, was going strong. When she (Dream Cruise is a '57 Chevy Bel Aire, and to me cars are female) hit 5,000 miles, I was excited. Then she hit 10,000 miles, 20,000 miles, etc. I decided if she hit 50,000 miles and came within 300 miles of where I live, I would collect her and bring her home. Well, she did, and I did. I was living in a different state when released, but she found her way back there and while home for the holidays, I enlisted my nephew and niece, and we did a road trip to collect her. She is a little worse for wear, but in surprisingly in good shape! It was interesting to see the all the travelers she picked up along the way, including an interesting one while in Israel. I have had as many as 62 fellow cachers watching her travel along the way, and received great notes and emails. That is all, I was just so excited to have my bug back, I had to post and share!

I have done two like this, and was amused both times, but wouldn't like the novelty to catch on and start seeing a lot of them. One was a puzzle cache, and seems like a lot of cachers calculated wrong. The owner put a cache in the wrong location with a note saying 'Try again' and a hint. The other was a skirt lifter with about a dozen 'fakes' with the actual being a magnetic nano.

I read "Stealth Required" as "I placed a cache where I should not have." Most times if it is really busy location, I just pass. Sometimes I will go back during a less busy time.

Do an appeal, or simply place the cache in another location within the park. Do you need to get permission to place the cache in the park? Certain municipalities require registering a cache with their office prior to placement. Since the officials are aware of the exact location, this cuts down on continuously check a spot where someone might report 'suspicious activity.' I actually applaud your reviewer. Reviewers in my area allow caches in places where they do not belong. My biggest peeve is allowing caches on elementary school grounds. I thought this was a universal no-no, guess not!

Wow, I didn't realize the Dirtbags were everywhere, I just became familiar with them after moving to Colorado two years ago. Here, the Dirtbag caches are actually pretty cool. Most are high terrain ratings and located in remote, off the beaten path mountain locations. They also put a disclaimer up front saying these caches are not for everyone. They do sponsor events where you can hook up with someone with a 4x4 (think extremely Jeep, not luxury SUV) and hit the mountains. Honestly, I find most of their caches to go back to the roots of what geocaching was in its infancy, rugged outdoor caches (not micro urban parking lot caches) that take you to some pretty spectacular places. They also have caches with less extreme terrain, but are multiple stages and require you use all the features of your GPS, not just 'go to' and 'find next.' I believe the name 'Dirtbag' comes from the terrain/location of the caches and the 'not as easy as you may think' caches. I do not believe it leans towards the unethical, boarding on criminal meaning.

Just for iconic purposes, GCGVOP Original Stash Tribute Plaque, is memorable being the location of the first cache ever placed.

Whatever happened to common sense in both hiding and finding caches? Exposed electrical wiring, or on transformer boxes, never a good idea, not only for healthy or young cachers, but especially for someone with a pacemaker or defibrillator! Cache at an extremely busy intersection or highway, don't do it! Cache in a hawthorn tree, nope. Cache 12 feet off the ground... I never hid a cache in a place where I thought someone may get hurt, and I do not hunt caches that are the same.

I definitely go in spurts, and have never been a 'numbers run' or obsessed FTF person. I like challenge caches, the ones where you have find so many of particular type or series before logging the challenge cache. Right now I am working on a Spirit Quest challenge, where you have to find 185 caches with 'SQ' or 'Spirit Quest' in the title of the cache, and a 100,000 foot cache where you have to find 8 caches whose altitudes adds up to at least 100,000 (I live in Colorado, so more than enough caches, except a lot of the terrain readings are 3.5+ and caching at 10,000+ is literally breathtaking!). This helps me seek out unique areas with unique history, often with incredible scenery, which is what I love about geocaching. Someone mentioned favorites points. I have over 50 points in the bank. I assign favorites for unique cache containers, a twist on a traditional cache, and lately, for the great story behind the cache, even if that cache itself is a common one. You might want to seek out a cache with some type of challenge behind it before logging. They can take you to some interesting places!

My travel bug, Dream Cruise TB2JCP, has logged over 50,000 miles in three years!!! I know it is not the bug with the most miles, but miles per year, it has got to be up there, and I would love to know where she stands! I sincerely appreciate every cacher who has moved and watched her the past three years.

I personally do not have a problem with a single cacher hanging onto my bug as long as they are moving it along with them on their travels. It is my experience that the cachers who do like to travel with bugs will eventually leave it in a nice safe cache (low muggle factor) with high traffic so it is picked up again quickly. They also go out of their way to help your bug reach it's goal. I released a bug three years ago with the goal of visiting all 50 states. It now has almost 48,000 miles on it (quite impressive for three years) and is almost at it's goal. It also took some side trips to Honduras, Belize, Egypt, and the UK. A few cachers have kept it for a while and traveled around with it. Those cachers have added almost a third of the miles! I wouldn't be concerned that the same cacher has had your bug for a while as long as it is moving. It is in good hands. It is more likely to go missing when a cacher with only one or two finds picks it up. Sometimes new cachers decide the hobby is not for them, never cache again, and just end up keeping the bug (this has happened with three travelers I have)!

My two cents: When I log DNF - 1) It is a brand new cache, especially one with high difficulty or a confusing multi or letterbox. This alerts the owner where I erred and they can either update coordinates, re-write instructions, or maybe add a hint. 2) I looked for a while but could not find the cache and the previous cachers could not find it either. This can alert the owner to check on the cache in case it went missing. 3) I put in a good effort, but just plain couldn't find it. This allows me to reference the cache and return to it later. When I do not log DNF - 1) Not putting effort into finding the cache, late in the day, abandon search do to muggles, etc. Just curious, if you log a DNF and eventually find the cache, do you edit the DNF to Found (with found date) or add another log?

When I first started, I wasn't very successful until I understood cache sizes and what the most common containers are. My first cache I found was an ammo can, so I was looking for that size container for all my caches! Living in an urban area, most caches were micros! I quickly found out that size does matter! Hooking up with an experienced cacher that can show you the ropes will definitely help. Most areas have a once a month Meet-n-Greet you can attend to meet seasoned geocachers and most will be more than willing to help you. Another way to learn is to use the internet. There are thousands of blogs and videos that will show you what to look for, what the most common containers are according to size, and the most common hiding spots. Not sure about other states, but in my home state, a lot of Park and Rec departments had a Geocaching 101 class. The class is usually a few hours long and you will learn the basics followed by a group outing to practice what you learned.

Any cache description that says "Be extra stealthy, high muggle traffic" might just as well say in capital letters, "I HID A CACHE WHERE I SHOULDN'T HAVE."

My first TB went about 30 miles before someone swapped out the traveler with something completely different. At least they didn't take the tag! I retrieved my TB from the cache and after a few months I replaced the traveler (using airplane wire and super glue) and re-launched it. I am happy to say that TB now has over 35,000 miles on it in the about 2.5 years. The other two TBs I launched at the same time are both gone. One TB cache was muggled (at 6K miles), and one was picked up by a one cache wonder, who never cached again (about 400 miles). It is hard to lose your first, but you never know when one will get some mileage! That said, I will probably mourn a good long while if the 35K bug goes missing before it comes close enough to home for me to retrieve it!

I do this quite often, especially if I pick up a bug and do not find a cache large enough to hold it after two weeks. Like the others mentioned, use the 'write note' option. You do not have to be elaborate in your note, just a simple 'Bug drop' will do (you can add more info if you like, though). I also appreciate it when someone has picked up one of my travel bugs and drops it in a 'high traffic' cache they already found. I know my bug has a much better chance of being quickly picked up and moving again instead of languishing in a remote, high difficulty cache!

I personally do not have problem with dipping. I have travel bug whose mission is to visit all 50 states. I have had some wonderful cachers who have picked up my bug and who have taken it with them to their final destination, and have dipped my bug into all the caches they found during their trip, helping my bug reach her goal. I have done the same thing. If I am heading out on a road trip and will be caching along the way, I will dip a bug I have found into each the cache I find and physically leave it in a cache when I reach final destination. During these road trips, I leave the bug in my car (and do not physically place it in the cache and pull it out) but since I have actually found the cache and signed the log, I do not feel I am somehow 'cheating' the system!

I have used asprin, vitamin, and PB containers with great success. When using this type of container, make sure to place it appropriately. I place these containers off the ground (to keep snow, etc. out of them) and as much out of the elements as possible. It is a good idea to place the log in a zip-lock baggie within the container for extra protection. As with any cache, make sure to monitor the logs for any signs that the container requires attention and maintain it. Following this, you should be fine with the pretzel container!

A wonderful pair of heavy suede gloves for winter caching. I like suede for winter-time caching because nothing sticks to them (like those annoying burrs!) and wind does not penetrate them. They have a soft lamb's wool lining that retains heat for the few minutes I have to take them off to sign the log. They are not the most stylish, but I will take function over style ANY day when it comes to caching in the Michigan winters!

Don't give up! The majority of the caches are simple (Traditional), just go to the coordinates and find it. Most Puzzle caches (identified with a "?") are not hard by any means and do not involve an advanced degree in mathematics to solve! If you do not have someone who can help you out with your first finds, make sure to read the Getting Started section on geocaching.com and google for geocaching tips and hints. One of the items to make sure you understand is cache size, this will tell you the size of the cache you are looking for. For example (and this is really basic and general), a micro cache will be about the size of a 35mm film container, a small cache will be about the size of a deck of cards, a medium container will be about the size of a shoe box, a large container will be anything larger than a medium (I have seen ammo cans, 5 gallon buckets, etc.). The hardest to find will be the nano containers. Some nano's are only the size of the eraser on the end of a pencil and are usually magnetic. Again, don't give up and if you are having trouble, post a question here - the people who reply are good folks and really want to help (not like some other sites!).

I consider anything within 10-15 feet as really accurate, 20-30 as acceptable, and anything over 40 feet I mention it in my log. As others have mentioned, many things will affect your GPS's accuracy - heavy cloud cover, heavy tree cover, how many satellites you are locked on, if you are using magnetic north, etc. When I am having trouble getting my GPS to settle down, I will switch from the compass feature that says I am so many feet from the cache and use the actual long/lat readings and that generally takes me to the cache. If I find myself more than 30 feet from where the web page says, I place my GPS on the ground at the cache site and leave it there for a few minutes, and check the actual long/lat reading. You may be surprised at how accurate the long/lat reading is according to the cache page using this method, and how 'off' your compass/feet to cache is! That said, the accuracy of the coordinates are soley dependent on the accuracy of cache owners. Some cache owners like to put the seekers in the general area of the cache and want the cache seekers to use their 'geosenses' to locate the actual container; some cache owners are always dead on.

My first find was with my sister, who also never geocached before. It was a seven-stage multi in a cemetery with a really cool puzzle. The cache was an ammo can. This kind of screwed me up though, I thought ALL caches would be that size! I spent a few frustrating months and almost gave up before I learned about cache sizes and that not all caches would be as large. Since I live in an urban area, most of the caches are micros and nanos so you can see my early dilema. That first cache is also my favorite cache (GC1BPXG if you want to take a peek).

I call it a hobby. However; if a big beer company wanted to sponsor me as a professional geocacher and wanted to call it a 'sport,' I would change my mind!

I personally hold on to them no longer than three weeks, if circumstances require a longer time, I contact the owner. One month is nothing! One of my coins was held onto for 7 months without placement and just this week started moving again, and one TB has been with a cacher for 9 months! I did send a note to the cacher of the TB after 8 months and just politely asked if my bug was still safe and sound and that I was in no hurry to have the bug placed. I have not heard a reply but at least the cacher is are still active!