vickyth

I wouldn't worry. Sometimes reviewers have things going on in their lives that decrease their ability to get geocaching stuff done. They're volunteers, after all. Patience, grasshopper. It'll happen and you'll have fun watching the logs when it does! Cheers! Vicky

Signature items are always fun to find. There's a family near us that leaves Muggle Stones in caches: Their names, etc. are on the reverse side of the paper.

You did the right thing. If the cache container was gone and you were able to ascertain that with reasonable certainty, logging a "needs maintenance" log is exactly what you should do. It is important that you keep doing this for several reasons and that you know a few things about doing this: 1. It results in the cache owner being sent a direct email that indicates that maintenance is required. This means that the cache owner is more likely to receive communication that the cache requires attention. 2. An attribute or "flag" is attached to the cache that alerts other cache seekers that the cache may be damaged or missing. The they won't go insane looking for a micro in a tree that has been chopped down (Been there, done that. Wish the cachers before me had noted their DNFs, at least. The tree had been gone for some time.). 3. The cache owner can remove the "flag" by posting a "maintenance" note to their cache. It's amazing how many owners don't know this, though!! It's not a permanent tag, by any means! 4. The only way a cacher can get a "black mark" against them is pertaining to cache maintenance by *ignoring* the "needs maintenance" tag for months and months. Even then, most of us simply shrug and acknowledge that these things happen. 5. Posting a "needs maintenance" log, if done for the right reasons, is a service to other cachers and the cache owner. It's also very easily removed, if the owner thinks it was in error. Don't sweat it. Keep caching, enjoy the game and simply accept that cachers, like other people everywhere, come in all shapes, sizes and temperaments. Cheers! Vicky

I had the same problem. It worked after I resized the images to what the site would resize them as after (I use a 10mp camera, but geocaching.com sibstantially resizes those after I upload them!). Just upload a smaller version of the image. I reduced to 25% of original before uploading and it went just fine. Vicky

I agree with the empty logbook chorus. When I'm FTF, that's all I'm looking for. Gift cards, etc. are really unnecessary, although I supposed they'd be nice to find. I'd be more inclined to go with a geocaching-related FTF. In a recent series of caches that I posted, I had the first four as multi-caches and they contained the coordinates for the fifth and final cache. In that last one, I put an unactivated TB tag (complete with code). The other caches have assorted good smaller items. I assumed that the first finder would probably pick one of the better items of their choice. Frankly, I'd rather folks spent money on a good container (which you did) and good swag in general. Unless you're going to stick unactivated geocoins or something in the cache, I'll probably just sign the log and let my daughter trade for whatever she wants if I'm FTF. Great job on those caches!!!!!!!!!! Vickyth

Chiming in from St. John's, Newfoundland here. Getting ready for a full weekend of caching!! Vicky

When I click them, they give me the option of "grabbing" them from you, so they are in your possession. Perhaps you should "drop" them back in the cache and "retrieve" them again? Might be a glitch in the system. Alternatively, you could try having someone "grab" them from you and then you "grab" them back. Vicky

If you still have your "copy tag" (did they issue those back then?) you could actually send a new version out into the world. For that matter, you own the tracking number. You could make up a laminated TB tag with the tracking number and send out the "reincarnation" of your original. I did that once for a TB that went missing for over a year.

If you're going to make me walk 1-2 hours, please give me some stages along the way. Make it three or fours stages.... :-)

Nope. They'd go mad, if they had to do that. They just look at the information you give them and the maps they have to see if things all look okay. If they have any questions, they put "reviewer's notes" on your pending caches. Vicky

I'm not a reviewer, but I've laid enough caches to know that it takes anywhere from a couple of hours (if you're really lucky) to three or four days for caches to be reviewed. A lot depends on timing, the reviewer and how many caches they have to look at. We're approaching 10/10/2010 now and there are a large number of world-wide events going on for which many caches are being laid. I'm betting the reviewers are pretty darned busy. As for what they look at, they check the following: 1. How close is the cache to any others in the area? 2. Is it on public land? 3. If it's on private property, have you obtained permission? 4. Is it in forbidden territory (i.e. is it in a National Park or some area that forbids caching)? 5. Does it ring any alarm bells from its description (i.e. did you place what looks like a pipe bomb under a bridge)? There are other things, of course, but those are among the biggies. The reviewers are all volunteers and do a really good job, by and large. Be patient! They'll get to you. I have six in queue right now, waiting publication. I've been waiting for a couple of days, but I figure it'll happen in time. Besides, it's always nice when caches are released just before a weekend!! Cheers! Vicky

I've done multi-caches that took an entire day. I have also done one that took half an hour. I've done some where the stages were less than 100m apart and others where you had to drive 15 kilometres to get from one stage to the next. The important factors are these: 1. Set people's expectations. Tell them how long it'll take, whether it should be done by car, can be done on foot or is accessible via public transit. Don't tell them it can be done on foot in an afternoon if the four stages are 10k apart each!! If I know what I'm in for, I'll allot the appropriate time and have fun doing it. 2. Make it worthwhile. The best multi-cache I've done thus far was six stages, with some of the stages having sub-stages (a spot with coordinates to get you to the actual stage) so it actually worked out to about 10 stages. The actual stages each contained puzzles that you had to solve to go on to the next stage. The containers were clever (one was a beach rock, in a pile of non-beach rocks next to a trail. The coordinates were engraved on the back. The Groundspeak logo was engraved on the top), the "plot" was engaging and the puzzles were just tricky enough to make you think, but not so difficult as to impede your average person completing the cache. 3. Give enough information in the descriptions and hints. 4. Take people to places that are worth going to, for every stage. 5. Run through it yourself before you publish it!! Cheers! Vicky

Did you look through the cache description and write down the size, difficulty, any info about the type of container and the hint? When you're getting started, USE THE HINT!! Decrypt it before you go out. Pick caches that are small and up. Jot down any information that might be relevant, including any notes in the logs of recent finders. When you're starting out, go easy on yourself and give yourself all the help you can get. What were the GC#s of the caches you were looking for? Many of us could probably tell you something about the caches just from reading and applying our experience. Once you nab a few, it really does get easier. Learning to trust the GPS, but also to open your eyes and really LOOK around you are the two keys. Vicky

I use a few rules of thumb when hiding them: 1. Is it an interesting place, a beautiful place, an unusual place or an educational place? If it fits none of these, it may not warrant a cache. 2. Is it allowed? Check and make sure caches can be placed there. I'm lucky. There are few regulations about caches where I live, other than not to put them on private property. Different places have different rules (particularly in the USA re: National Parks, Preserves, Monuments, etc.). 3. Is it safe? While you don't have to put caches under a rock in the middle of a flat field, you should pay attention to the dangers of the environment in which you are placing the cache. If your aim is to make a family-friendly cache on a nice hiking trail, don't dangle the thing off the edge of an overhung cliff. If you *do* make a cache with an element of danger or for which special equipment/safety gear is required, make sure to mention it in the cache description and rate the difficulty accordingly. 4. Place the largest maintainable and concealable container possible in a venue. Why put a micro in an evergreen tree five miles into untrammeled forest? My rule of thumb is to hide the biggest cache possible (mine don't get much larger than an ammo can anyway) in a spot. If you're going to make people hike for something, give them at least a decent-sized logbook in which to share their adventures. 5. Use a container that suits the locale. If it's a very rural cache that's harder to maintain, use an ammo can or a very good Lock n Lock and conceal it in a sheltered spot, where it will be protected from the elements. Caches that are easier to get to can have less bomb-proof containers. But first and foremost, find a bunch of caches before you place any. That way you'll know what works really well for your area and what definitively does not. Happy caching! Vicky

I logged two finds last night that I made in February of this year and forgot to log at that time. I was visiting Nova Scotia and nabbed a few caches here and there, including one virtual and an earthcache. I logged all the caches with physical logbooks when I returned, but didn't log the virtual or earthcache right away as I hadn't dumped the camera, edited the photos required, etc. Last night I was perusing old photos and realized that I hadn't logged those finds. So I posted the photos, logged them for the correct dates (whcih I knew from the other caches I'd found those days), emailed the CO with answers to questions and all was well. If you found it, you can log it. It's not complicated stuff! Vicky

I also cache with a seven-year-old and have also encountered some wet or boring cache finds. On a semi-regular basis, I visit the dollar store to replenish our swag bag and make it my mission to improve the content of the poorly-stocked caches we find. Katherine (daughter) has her own little swag bag that she trades from, but if the cache is soggy, poorly-stocked or a micro, she is allowed to trade from MY swag bag instead of the cache. This keeps her happy, lets us both enjoy the find (if it's not found, there are no trades at all) and generally preserves family morale. Have fun hunting!! Cheers! Vicky

Yep. I have the same gps and I do. You need to download your co-ordinates in gpx format. Then, when you send them to your gps, assign the "hint" to the "comment" field of your gps. You only have 80 characters, so some hints will be too long. I use gsak (Easy GPS works, to) and generally modify the hints before sending them to my gps. You can choose whether to send them decryted or encrypted. If you build pocket queries, you can do this for a whole whack at once. Cheers! Vicky

Thanks, everyone! I sincerely appreciate all the help, advice, information and opinions. I'll try out some of those options, with the particular adhesive depending, of course, on the project. My first attempt will be one of those soda bottle preforms with a small rock glued to the top, hidden by dropping the tube down into a piece of pvc or abs set into the ground, such that the tube is submerged and the rock sits neatly in plain sight. There aren't a lot of these kinds of hides around here, so it'll be fun to see the reactions! Again, thanks for all your help! I'll post pictures of the finished project. Cheers! Vickyth

I am working on several clever caches and thought I'd ask those of you in the know what your favourite adhesives are. Rather than spending an hour looking at the wall of glue in the hardware store (not that I dislike time in the hardware store by any means!) what are the most durable, waterproof glues suitable for attaching rocks to plastic, sticks to metal, etc. Do any glues have particular drawbacks? Other than the possibility of sticking your finger to an ammo tin, that is. Someone suggested that I just grab Gorilla Glue. Has anyone had experience with this product? All the best, Vickyth

Ines, Vielen dank! Your generosity is truly appreciated. I look forward to watching the coin travel the world and will indeed "pay it forward" at some future date, when funds allow! Can't wait to see where it goes! Vicky

I actually don't have ANY geocoins, although I have a few TBs and have greatly enjoyed watching them travel the world. If anyone has a coin that needs someone to watch over it, I'd be happy to adopt it. I assume it's basically like adopting a cache? No money (or items) change hands, it's just me taking over a trackable, right? This is all new territory for me... Exciting!! Cheers! Vickyth